Yo fellow savages. I just sent payment for:

94mm flat top Wiseco piston
Lancer stage 3 cam
JFG Racing PWK38
VersiPlug

I have two questions:

1) What else do I need as far as gaskets/washers/o-rings? I've read all the threads I could, but I can't find a clear consensus.

Ones I know I'll need: cylinder base gasket, head gasket, Suzukibond for valve cover and clutch side cover

Ones I'm not sure if I'll need: cylinder to head o-ring, valve adjustment cover o-rings, head cover screw sealing washers, cylinder stud copper washers, exhaust gasket. More importantly, I can't even find half these on the microfiche.

2) Anything else I need, or should watch out for?

I know I'll have to modify my stock throttle cable at both ends to fit the PWK38, I'm gonna order extra cylinder head bolts for when I snap one, I have a Verslavey cam chain adjuster to put on, and I have a HoboFreight torque wrench. I also have molylube for the lobes and a feeler gauge for ring gap and valve clearance. I think I need a dingleball hone? What size? Piston break up in essentially just keeping up varying RPMs?

I'm reading the service manual and the relevant threads like I'm studying to get into Harvard. Despite this, I'll still likely screw something up!

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 09/30/22 at 07:59:33:





Yeah, my last engine (Rebel 250) I crushed a cam cover and snapped off 2 head bolts before I hit torque spec. Ended up getting a new engine.

So you don't torque any of the bolts with a torque wrench? Not even the head/cylinder bolts?

Yazman wrote on 09/30/22 at 08:02:36:

I don't see how to get a torque wrench on the head Cover.
I've never had the head off,but I would do that by the book.
Those are real bolts. The little head cover bolts are counterfeit metal.
I'm not sure I would rerun the oem head bolts. I might want new quality bolts.

Don't order a cylinder base gasket until you determine correct thickness required to achieve .035" - .045" quench clearance.  You can get the base gasket in various thicknesses from Copper Gaskets Unlimited in Phoenix, AZ.

Save your old head gasket so you can use it for setup and clearance checks.

Get some modeling clay so you can check valve-to-piston clearance.

If you don't have precision measuring instruments, get at least a dial caliper that is accurate to within .001".

The flat-top piston is unforgiving.  Don't ignore the clearance checks.  Do it right and you will be justly rewarded.  Cut corners and an irresistible force will meet an immovable object.

Plan on doing several mockup assemblies of the engine to check all your clearances.  That's where the old head gasket comes in handy.  Once you are sure all the clearances are correct, you can do the final assembly with a new head gasket and the correct thickness cylinder base gasket.

Don't use silicone sealant on the copper washers under your head nuts.  It will prevent you from achieving sufficient stud stress.  Use new copper washers.  Lubricate the threads with clean oil.  Lubricate the copper washers with clean oil, or apply teflon thread sealant to both sides of each washer.  Permatex 59214 or Loctite 592.  This post tells the story.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1576269113/12#12

Don't ignore your ring gap.  It must be adequate to ensure that the ends don't butt when it gets hot.  Insufficient gap will definitely wreck your motor.  I suggest at least .020" gap for the top ring, and .022 gap for the second ring.  Don't skimp on the gap.

Be careful with piston orientation.  As I recall, there's no arrow on the top of the flat-top to show which way is forward.  

My flat top piston is pretty clearly marked.

DBM - yes, the valve clearances were enlarged by design revision before I purchased mine.

Managing your parts during disassembly is so important. Mark things, like that blasted oil pump drive gear, it Can go in bakkerds. All too easily. Cardboard with parts outlines and a slice through that holds each bolt so you know you Have all the bolts and where each one goes. For the headcover you can put the one that goes upside down in just like that. Maybe a piece of tape on the center one that has to be in the headcover before you set it in place..
The clutch cover bolts, same thing. As parts come out, set them up in order.
Clutter is not your friend. Start in a clean work area. No bits and pieces that don't belong in your project. You don't Want to find a little bolt later and wonder where it goes.

I knew a guy in the air force, we weren't buds,but he was asking around if anyone would help him rebuild his AMC something or other. I said I would help, couple other guys wanted in. Nobody knew Beans about it. All I did was parts management. As they took it apart, I cleaned, inspected and positioned for assembly. Lots of stabbed cardboard.

I know, you're all Dying to hear how it worked out. It got rings,but I'm not remembering anyone knowing the bores needed hit with a cross hatch pattern. I don't think we did that. We didn't have the tools for valve springs, so they got eyeballed and called good.
It ran . We decided that not only did it still run, it ran EXACTLY the same as before we spent our weekend on it.

It's good that your heart is in your throat. That is a lot better than being overconfident.

In your mind, instead of the vision being
Engine disassembled now change parts and go back together
Set short term goals,, removing a few things, clean inspect, position for reassembly.
If you're figuring out I'm harping on being organized, I am.
It's hard enough without creating puzzles to figure out.

Good luck, man. We will be here, rooting for ya!

I would go with some assembly lube for your cam lobes.  It is designed specifically for that task.