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Meltdown (Read 213 times)
DragBikeMike
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Meltdown
02/08/20 at 20:29:34
 
I was just finishing up on a carburetor comparison test.  I was testing four different mixers for a report I wanted to post, and this was the final phase of the test.  I was anxious to finish up.  My wide-open throttle (WOT) air/fuel (A/F) ratio was just a bit leaner than I wanted (about 13.5 vs 12.5), but this engine had been taking everything I could throw at it so I figured it would be OK.  After five or six 4K to 7K pulls in second gear it felt really good, so I decided to stretch it out.  I took it up to 7250 in 4th gear.  The A/F hung in there around 13.5 and all seemed well.  I looped around for another pull.  I took it up in 5th and right about 6400 I could sense things weren’t right.  A quick glance at the A/F meter showed it was dead rich, 10:1.

I chopped the throttle and could tell immediately that something was wrong.  The mixture was waaaaay rich and it had zero power.  I was testing an Ultimate Flow Optimizer (UFO) and figured there was a good chance that maybe the contraption had come loose and was choking off the venturi.  No such luck.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #1 - 02/08/20 at 20:31:31
 
My engine is a little different from some of the hotrods other forum members have built.  I raised my compression by machining about .130” off the top of my cylinder instead of installing a pop-top piston (Wiseco).  I used the stock flat-top cast piston and machined four valve reliefs in the piston.  My intent was to provide a good tight quench area between the cylinder head and the piston.  It worked too good.  It had whopper compression and the cranking pressure was too high (245 psi).  I was able to mitigate that problem by installing a Web 340b grind cam, retarded 5°.  It seemed to be working fine on pump gasoline (92 octane E10).  I put several thousand miles on it that included hundreds of full-power pulls and some dyno pulls.  All sorts of torture.

There were tests on the camshafts, tests on the breather system, tests on air filters, tests on carburetors.  All the tests involved full power ops to the max.  It was spending way too much time at engine speeds well above what any normal person would consider reasonable.

In the middle of all that testing, I sucked in a cylinder base gasket, so I had to tear it down.  At that time, the piston assembly looked great.  Not a hint of trouble.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #2 - 02/08/20 at 20:32:27
 
Aside from the pretty brown hue from the octane booster I had been running, the integrity of the piston assembly was stellar.  Looked great, solid as a rock.  It was lovin the tight quench.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #3 - 02/08/20 at 20:34:16
 
Fast-forward about 1000 miles to Super Bowl Sunday.  I end up with this after getting a little lazy and anxious.  I should have waited until I had that WOT mixture deep into the 12 zone before trying to set the land speed record (LSR).  Good lesson for this old dog.  I think you will find these photos interesting, and I am also hoping I can pry some good comments and advice from the experts on this forum.

You can see from the first picture in this post that a section of the piston top is missing.  The section extends from the left-hand intake valve relief to just a little past the middle of the piston.  The photo below shows the piston from the side, note how the top of the piston appears to be pulled up.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #4 - 02/08/20 at 20:35:24
 
Fast650 (The Fastman) sort of zeroed in on the ring gap before I even had the cylinder off.  He saw the first photo from the top (with cylinder still in place) and said your ring gap is too small.  I checked my records and when I assembled the engine my ring gaps were .020” top and .030” 2nd.   With one exception, all my reference material recommends gaps in this range, about .005” to .0055” per inch of bore diameter (that’s for a hot-street or mild race engine).  I have a 3.700” bore so the first ring should have been gapped to .019” to .020”.  I was right there.  But that one exception reference book calls for .006” per inch of bore if the engine is air-cooled.  That would mean my top ring gap should have been at .022”.  BTW, the factory manual specifies .018”.

The Fastman figured it’s the speed that I’m operating at.  I must admit that I have become complacent.  This thing has spent so much time above 7K without so much as a hiccup, that I simply lost sight of any sort of redline.  I’m guilty, I bury the tach every time I ride it.  It’s almost like second nature.  Swing a leg over it and run its guts out.  I have been justly rewarded.

The piston skirt got scuffed up on the exhaust side.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #5 - 02/08/20 at 20:36:28
 
And of course, the intake side is a mess.  Why the intake side?  I thought that side would run cooler.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #6 - 02/08/20 at 20:37:28
 
The wrist pin bore in the rod had a little galling as did the wrist pin itself.  The wrist pin will be headed for the trash bin, but I gotta try and save that rod.  I’m not so sure that the rod galling is directly attributable to this meltdown.  It might be my reward for the constant high rpm ops.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #7 - 02/08/20 at 20:38:23
 
I’m happy to report that a few quick passes with a ball-hone cleaned it right up.  It’s only .0001” over design specs, and still .0009” below the wear limit.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #8 - 02/08/20 at 20:39:23
 
The combustion chamber looked OK.  It almost looked as though nothing bad had occurred, simply the standard layer of carbon deposits.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #9 - 02/08/20 at 20:40:20
 
I was wondering where that chunk of piston top went.  As I was cleaning up the combustion chamber, I figured that out.  The combustion chamber had a nice layer of aluminum flame-sprayed all over, especially the intake side quench area.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #10 - 02/08/20 at 20:41:12
 
Look at the beautiful flame spray job on the combustion chamber pocket.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything like this.  A good 55 years of wrenching and never seen a piston liquify and get deposited so nicely over the combustion chamber.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #11 - 02/08/20 at 20:42:03
 
It flame-sprayed the exhaust valves.  Cool (or should I say hot, as in JetHot?).
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #12 - 02/08/20 at 20:42:58
 
If any of you doubt that there is intake reversion when using a big cam with a late closing intake valve, look at the aluminum specs on the intake.  There’s only one way for that aluminum to find it’s way back up the intake tract, reversion.  Those aluminum specs are firmly adhered to the valve, things were warm.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #13 - 02/08/20 at 20:44:02
 
After I cleaned up the valves with scotchbrite and oil, there was still aluminum forge-welded to the seating surface.  I will probably have to replace the exhaust valves.  I think the intake valves can be cleaned up with a Neway Gizmatic.
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Re: Meltdown
Reply #14 - 02/08/20 at 20:44:50
 
Even the intake valve, with all that cooling from the fresh charge, had aluminum forge-welded to the seating surface. Mama Mia, that’s a one spicy meatball.
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