justin_o_guy2 wrote on 10/08/14 at 18:12:04:


Makes sense. So that's why there's a decompression lever, to open an exhaust valve on start up right? That's why it has to be disconnected or there will be a low compression reading. You think that valve is all  it is or does anything else look off?

Cylinder head....not sure if that can be saved.  It has a pretty good looking nick in edge near the valve seat insert.  You might be able to grind and sand it smooth enough to be usable.  You can't have an sharp edges that will concentrate heat and promote detonation.  We used to have a really good machine shop in Cincinnati that could do that kind of repair fast and cheap.  They could weld heads, install new and/or oversize valve seats, etc. - I just don't know if those kind of places exists anymore.

Piston.....might be salvageable.  Once again the sharp edges have to be gone, dent most likely won't be a problem.  If there are any dents on the outside edge that have compressed the ring land onto the piston ring, the piston is not any good.  

Rocker arms.....not sure?  If the rockers got bent trying to push down on a valve at the same time the broken valve was getting pushed up by the piston - it could have bent the rockers.


I would start with the head.  See if it is able to be used.  Heads go for about $ 250.  By the time you get a head, piston, rings, gaskets, a valve, etc.   You might be at the cost of a low mileage replacement engine.

Bummer you had to start out this way......they can get expensive really quickly when they are broken.  Not sure what makes the valve break like that.....it is not all that common on the Savage.

It really depends on where you want to go with this.  It is a great opportunity to make a hot-rod motor with a Wiseco, cam upgrade, etc.  However if you want to repair this with as little cost as possible...you need to try and salvage as much as possible.
 
PS.....I have a good piston that came out of a 18,000 mile engine that broke the case when the starter gear screwed up.  It was running fine until that happened.


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Took it to a machine shop and they said the cylinder head was warped, cut, and beyond repair.

In other news, a 97 running savage with 12k miles was bought out from under me for $500 on Craigslist. My luck.

I'm trying to get a cylinder head, piston, and both belt pulleys within the next few weeks. Here is what my cylinder head looks like from up top with the valves and cam surface. I'm trying to get things together and hopefully get it together before it gets too cold. I'm not going to rush too much though, that's where careless mistakes come from.

Well red looks nasty when you are done......black makes a much better appearance.  You can also carefully remove the stuff that sticks out, as the seal is between the surfaces...not from what has oozed out.  Also use is sparingly, as you don't want it squeezing a bunch inside as it can block the oil flow to the cam.

Me....I bought Suzukibond and used it.  It is what the factory uses, and it seems to set up a bit slower than the gasket maker type RTV sealants.  You can also use Hondabond or Yamabond.

Don't do this........

Are y'all saying to use  suzukibond or yamabond in place of a gasket set?

projectfj wrote on 11/03/14 at 09:31:26:

No

Use "bond where "bond is used,

Use gaskets where gaskets are used.