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Message started by projectfj on 10/02/14 at 14:25:04

Title: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/02/14 at 14:25:04

After reading a ton of the posts on here, I figured this would be the absolute best forum to join to learn and find wisdom on my recently purchased 96' Savage. After scoring this fine piece of Japanese machinery for $400, I immediately began the process to figure out what was wrong with it as it was not running when I bought it. A little backstory: bought it, "the motorcycle guy" at Toyota where I worked at the time checked it out and came to the conclusion the engine needed to be broke down to determine the problem. So here I am, motor out of frame, ready to be disassembled.

My question is: If I am taking apart the cylinder head to inspect the valves/piston/cylinder wall, do I need to take apart the alternator, starter, clutch, camshaft cover, and components as per the Clymer's repair manual or would I be okay starting from the cylinder head and making my way down the cylinder?

Also, I'm sure I read somewhere a checklist of things to inspect when the engine is disassembled, but I can't seem to find it. I know the chain tensioner is on there, and I'm going to go ahead and fix that infamous seal leak while I'm in there, but if there is anything else or if somebody can find the link to that checklist before I do I would appreciate it.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 10/02/14 at 14:39:52

Yes you'll need to take the clutch cover off to get the cam off, then the head. (and many things in between)

But, we like to hear more of why you and your "m/c guy" think it should be broke down. Maybe we can avoid un necessary work.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/02/14 at 14:55:39

Thanks for the quick post. I forgot to mention it has 33,605 miles on it. Back when I was working those dreadful 12 hour days I bought this bike, and brought it to the dealership. I asked around and everybody pointed to Chris, "the motorcycle guy." I asked him to give it a good looking over, and he said it had no compression and he would have to break it apart to know for sure what was going on. He did disconnect the decompression lever before the compression test. However, what he meant by no compression I will never know. What I do know is it will turn over all day, but never crank. He sprayed starter fluid in the spark plug hole, put the plug in, and it fired so it can't be seized up?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by MnSpring on 10/02/14 at 15:14:17

Good Luck. Really, have fun doing that !

And LISTEN, to the people here,
that have; "Been their and Done that".

I did the same, but when the problems were beyond,
my, 'laziness', (taking out the motor and checking it out),
I just parted it out.

After tearing it apart, found out what was making the, 'bucket of bolts inside', noise. But to late now.

Do, have a BUNCH of parts, out of a 97, 5500 miles,
which are all in good shape, if you need something.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/02/14 at 15:23:04

I've learned to listen to ANY advice given to me after I did a sbc350 swap on my 79' fj40. Talk about lesson learned after lesson learned. I do know for a fact that I need a front drive belt pulley since mine is all grinded up in the spline region. PM me a price and shipping to 35405 if you've got one. I want to see what the major damage is on the bike since I haven't spent anything over the initial cost of the bike so far, but an estimate doesn't hurt.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 10/02/14 at 15:40:32

No compression is not good, but fires? I know it won't run w/out compression but will it fire? You must have the header and carb off, valves look ok? not bent or busted off in particular?

Any odd sounds while it's spinning?

30k miles is ripe for a cam chain.

ground up spline is not good.
Is the spline on the output shaft still good or is it ground up too?
If you have a spare sprocket from another bike, it might fit over the splines to check them out. Swapping out the output shaft will require splitting the case.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by MnSpring on 10/02/14 at 15:44:51

I, PM'ed you.
But if you don't get it.
Look here:
http://tomradde.com/xt225/styled/index.html

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/02/14 at 15:57:11

verslagen1: I say it fires, but it made a real loud bang. I have the carb off, but haven't made it to the engine yet. I will probably start taking it apart tomorrow now that I know the clutch cover has to come off. As far as the sound when it was spinning, it sounded pretty normal. The output spline is fine, just the pulley is all grinded. It looks like this : http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;num=1130022642

MnSpring: It says I haven't made my ten posts yet so I can't reply via PM, but I've looked at your stock over and over. I called my local dealer today and they said it was going to be $80+. Will it fit in one of those small or medium boxes?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by MnSpring on 10/02/14 at 16:03:08

All depends on the size, and what you want.
Most people do not understand, those boxes CAN go to 70 LB's total,
for the One Box !
Ya can fit a LOT of stuff, in a, 'large' PM box'.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by MnSpring on 10/02/14 at 16:19:20

Again, take the advice from the people here,
'that have done that been their'.

I Have the drive pulley,
AND the Cam chain with Both top & Bottom Sprockets,
AND CAM, And Both slides.
And if you want a NEW (Modified CCA, 'from verslage')
Have a extra of one of those also.

And a 96. Don't know. Is that year, before or after, the,
'kick out', gear for backfiring on starting?
If so, also have that from the 97.

Later. Time to eat, read, and will check in tomorrow.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/02/14 at 18:02:23

I'd shoot some oil in it,look at the plug, pop the valve covers,see if they are open when they should not be,then check the compression. I'd do the valve thing first. But I would not allow it to start till I had checked the cam chain..

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/03/14 at 09:35:49

MnSpring: Let me see what all I'll need and what all I can afford and I'll PM you. No clue about the "kick out" gear.

Looks like I'll be doing the valves first as recommended then inspect everything else. Probably won't get into it today since it's raining and I don't have much cover, but I should have a good start on it tomorrow. Thanks for the help and I'll post again when I make some progress.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 05:56:17

Finally got some progress going. Not as much as I'd hoped, but moving in a forward direction. Here's a few pictures of what I've done so far:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 05:56:56

Another:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 05:57:33

Last one, but expect more tonight:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/08/14 at 08:36:18

I've seen some pretty clever engine stands people have built to get the thing stable on a bench.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 16:47:32

Hahaha I wouldn't say clever is the right way to describe it, and I'm sure my neighbors didn't appreciate the squealing of a 3" screw going through wood at 5am this morning.

However, I have made my way to the cylinder head and made a huge discovery. I will continue to take the rest of the cylinder apart so as to see if the walls are damaged or gouged. This is what I've discovered so far, any suggestions or tips are appreciated:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 16:48:07

Wonder what caused all that damage...

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 16:48:51

Does something look misplaced to any of you?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 16:51:16

Well I've got a decent bit done today, but I'm not quite done yet. If I have time and it's what y'all suggest, I'll take the rest of the jug off. I'm sure it needs inspecting since I'm so far in.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 16:53:51

Oh and the camshaft tensioner measured about 18.5 mm, so it looks like my needed parts list grows more and more. Still plenty more inspections to do though. Later.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Yoshi on 10/08/14 at 16:58:25

LOL, I bought a bike with the same thing, 1 dropped valve but little more damage then yours has

if you need another used exhaust valve I can get it to you for $45 shipped

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 17:42:18

Ill keep that in mind. I'm going to make a list of everything I'm going to need to get this bike back in running shape after I do all the inspections.

The cylinder didn't look gouged or cracked, but I'm going to test it with the bore gauge or whatever its called. Certainly doesn't look like I'll have to bore it out and get an oversized piston at the moment, but I'll know for sure soon enough. Like I said, after I do some research as to what all needs inspected, modded, replaced, I'll make a list and finally start getting new parts to start the rebuilding process. As before, any tips or suggestions are appreciated.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/08/14 at 17:43:22

Yeah,yeah,yeah, but have you been able to figure out why you don't have any comPression?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 17:43:29

Cylinder from the top:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 17:43:55

Cylinder from the bottom:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 17:48:51

607F797E63645565556D7F73380A0 wrote:

Yeah,yeah,yeah, but have you been able to figure out why you don't have any comPression?

Not yet, but I imagine it has something to do with the broke valve, piston gouges, maybe rings? I tinker with cars and now this, but I claim to be no mechanic. When I do figure it out or find somebody to look at it that can, I'll post the results.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/08/14 at 17:53:41

Awww,you don't really think that something as minor as a busted valve could be a problem,do ya?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Yoshi on 10/08/14 at 17:55:24

I also have the whole lower motor of a 4 speed 1987 savage if you need parts, pm me and let me know
Also picked up a good used piston that im no longer going to use

good luck with the repair

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 18:05:04

justin-o-guy2: Honestly, I have no idea. I was kind of hoping it was, but when things sound too good to be true, they probably are. What are your thoughts on what could make me lose compression?

Yoshi: I'll let you know as I get to it. Thanks.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/08/14 at 18:12:04

No way to have compression with a busted valve..

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/08/14 at 18:24:08

2C3335322F2819291921333F74460 wrote:

No way to have compression with a busted valve..

Makes sense. So that's why there's a decompression lever, to open an exhaust valve on start up right? That's why it has to be disconnected or there will be a low compression reading. You think that valve is all it is or does anything else look off?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/09/14 at 12:17:14

From the pictures I've posted so far, will I have to replace the piston and cylinder head or can I smooth them down? I've never replaced a piston before, but this one looks pretty rough.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 10/09/14 at 12:43:08

Cylinder head....not sure if that can be saved. It has a pretty good looking nick in edge near the valve seat insert. You might be able to grind and sand it smooth enough to be usable. You can't have an sharp edges that will concentrate heat and promote detonation. We used to have a really good machine shop in Cincinnati that could do that kind of repair fast and cheap. They could weld heads, install new and/or oversize valve seats, etc. - I just don't know if those kind of places exists anymore.

Piston.....might be salvageable. Once again the sharp edges have to be gone, dent most likely won't be a problem. If there are any dents on the outside edge that have compressed the ring land onto the piston ring, the piston is not any good.

Rocker arms.....not sure? If the rockers got bent trying to push down on a valve at the same time the broken valve was getting pushed up by the piston - it could have bent the rockers.

I would start with the head. See if it is able to be used. Heads go for about $ 250. By the time you get a head, piston, rings, gaskets, a valve, etc. You might be at the cost of a low mileage replacement engine.

Bummer you had to start out this way......they can get expensive really quickly when they are broken. Not sure what makes the valve break like that.....it is not all that common on the Savage.

It really depends on where you want to go with this. It is a great opportunity to make a hot-rod motor with a Wiseco, cam upgrade, etc. However if you want to repair this with as little cost as possible...you need to try and salvage as much as possible.

PS.....I have a good piston that came out of a 18,000 mile engine that broke the case when the starter gear screwed up. It was running fine until that happened.

Or for the ultimate riding pleasure.....You can buy a Male Enhancement Product!

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/09/14 at 16:43:42

I guess I'll start looking for a good machine shop to see what they say and compare it to some prices I find for a cylinder head, that's what I'm most worried about. I used to look at those wiseco oversized pistons, but if I don't have to bore the cylinder they'll have to wait. I'm going to salvage as much as possible. I'll let y'all know what I decide to do. Thanks again for all the help.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/18/14 at 06:01:18

Took it to a machine shop and they said the cylinder head was warped, cut, and beyond repair.

In other news, a 97 running savage with 12k miles was bought out from under me for $500 on Craigslist. My luck.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Super Thumper on 10/25/14 at 08:10:00

The cylinder walls look good so I don't think you broke a ring.

That broken exhaust valve makes me wonder...it looks like the cam chain and tensioner are intact so .....I think it broke an exhaust valve spring....it dropped the valve and it came in contact with the piston and broke the valve off up inside the guide.

You're going to need a piston and a cylinder head.

What does the camshaft look like?

Is there any damage to the bearing surfaces or the lobes?

A bare cylinder head casting is about $900.00 new from Suzuki and that's without guides, seats, valves, springs, locks and retainers....add the rest of the parts and you are up around $1,200.00 BEFORE the machine shop costs to put the seats and guides in.

Good used cylinder heads are going for about $250.00 on eBay right now but beware!!!!

Make sure you get good close-up pics of the cam bearings in the head....most of the salvage places don't check the cam bearings before they list them on ebay.

I bought one from a salvage place in Florida and had to send it back because the cam bearings were no good.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 10/26/14 at 17:45:24

I'm trying to get a cylinder head, piston, and both belt pulleys within the next few weeks. Here is what my cylinder head looks like from up top with the valves and cam surface. I'm trying to get things together and hopefully get it together before it gets too cold. I'm not going to rush too much though, that's where careless mistakes come from.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 11/03/14 at 01:37:16

Almost have everything I need to start putting the motor back together and hopefully, finally get to ride a little before winter kicks in full force. Does anybody know of a good engine gasket set? I know I read somewhere on here to be careful about the ebay ones, because they're missing holes. Also, is RTV black sealant alright to use or should I get the red?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 11/03/14 at 03:36:25

Well red looks nasty when you are done......black makes a much better appearance. You can also carefully remove the stuff that sticks out, as the seal is between the surfaces...not from what has oozed out. Also use is sparingly, as you don't want it squeezing a bunch inside as it can block the oil flow to the cam.

Me....I bought Suzukibond and used it. It is what the factory uses, and it seems to set up a bit slower than the gasket maker type RTV sealants. You can also use Hondabond or Yamabond.

Don't do this........

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/03/14 at 09:19:51

I used Yamabond. In the years I had that tube,it never hardened. Expensive, But it's the best gasket goo I've seen.
And it's a silver grey,, a dot doesn't stick out..

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 11/03/14 at 09:31:26

Are y'all saying to use suzukibond or yamabond in place of a gasket set?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by thefattony on 11/03/14 at 09:38:56

bump

(just bc i wanted to send a PM to the creator of this thread and was at 9 posts needed to be at 10)

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 11/03/14 at 10:01:17

2624393C333522303C560 wrote:

Are y'all saying to use suzukibond or yamabond in place of a gasket set?

No

Use "bond where "bond is used,

Use gaskets where gaskets are used.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 11/03/14 at 10:17:25

Any suggestions on where to get the right gasket set? I've been looking at the one on windsorcycles.com for just over $110. I've seen a few listings on eBay for around $30-40, but read their missing holes. I just want to get the right set for as little as possible and I figured a few of you have had to get a gasket set somewhere along the line.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/03/14 at 10:24:17

The head cover has no gasket. I used Yamabond and was very pleased with how it works,not just as an effective sealant,but its ease of application,getting it to"wet"the surface and not get gummy while I was getting it spread thin and even. There are oil passageways that need to be sealed around but not plugged and the thickness of the"gasket"determines the clearance for the cam bearings,well,the head and cover ARE the bearing surfaces.
The sticks they use for manicures are handy for manipulating the goo. The local beauty shop supply has them. They are called Orange Sticks,because it's supposed to be Orange tree wood.
I ran out of gasket goo and bought Permatex Ultra Grey. IDK yet how it acts. I have not used it yet.At least it's not gonna look like a Stop sign poking out.
If it's not as easy to work with as Yamabond and I was gonna get into the head cover,I'd pay the money and get the good stuff. It's hard enough without having to wrestle with a combative tube of goo.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 11/03/14 at 10:28:02

3D3F2227282E392B274D0 wrote:

Are y'all saying to use suzukibond or yamabond in place of a gasket set?

Reproduce what the factory did.

Use gaskets where the factory used them.

And when doing the case halves and cylinder head cover.....use the Suzuk/Yama or HondaBond products. There is also an aftermarket product called Threebond.....that I imagine is the same product without the brand name.

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3177

The generic RTV products seem to set up pretty fast for something as technical as installing the head cover. The Suzuki bond seemed to be a bit more "user friendly" and did not start to set up quickly. It also doesn't harden in the tube as JOG has mentioned. One tube goes a very long way and lasts a long time.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 11/03/14 at 11:55:36

I've never even heard of that Yama/Suzuki/Hondabond until today, guess I'll have to get some. I've always used RTV, but then again I've always worked on Chevys and Toyotas. Do y'all have a specific place in mind to get the crankcase, cylinder base/head, exhaust, and any other gaskets I'll need? From the looks of it I might be better off getting a set than each individually. I want to get the least amount possible from the dealer since they're prices are usually higher than online, and it takes a week + for them to get the parts.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 11/03/14 at 13:28:02

Get the set.....and just check prices with Bike Bandit, Ron Ayers, Motorcycle Superstore, etc.....maybe eBay. Spend the extra and make sure it is a factory set.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 01/30/15 at 14:28:21

Wells guys and gals it took months, but I have everything (hopefully) other than a few odds and end parts.

Here is a list of everything I have so far:
Used front and rear pulley (thanks kockic)
Used piston and rings (thanks MnSpring)
Used cylinder head (thanks LANCER)
Versy cam chain tensioner (thanks verslagen1)
New 140/90/15 Shinko 712 rear tire
New tire tube
New wheel strip
New K&N pod air filter (thanks LANCER)
New stock gasket set
New stock raptor petcock
New stock allen head timing cover plug
New stock cam chain tensioner circlip
New stock pulley lock washer
New stock oil filter
New stock spark plug
New tube of Yamabond

I want to thank everybody that has helped me so far on this crazy journey I've been on since last Summer. If you see anything I left off, please let me know. I'm going to use Rotella T 15W-40 oil and a little pod filter for the crankcase breather (not sure what to do yet with the air box) next time I find myself at O'reilly's. Hoping all that's left is a few man hours.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by KennyG on 01/30/15 at 17:51:26

I looked for Yamabond on Ron Ayers website and found several different part numbers. Which part number for Yamabond is mentioned above?

Kenny G

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 01/31/15 at 17:10:01

I use the Suzuki stuff in my Suzuki! :)

Part number 99104-31140

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by paulmarshall on 01/31/15 at 21:22:06

33080512030F141209010C13600 wrote:

My Wiseco didnt come with a nice cloth bag :'(

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 02/01/15 at 07:14:14

0B252E0332213328400 wrote:

I looked for Yamabond on Ron Ayers website and found several different part numbers. Which part number for Yamabond is mentioned above?

Kenny G

I went to the closest stealership which was Yamaha and asked for some yamabond. The part number on the invoice was acc-bond4-mc-00 . Hope that helps.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/09/15 at 15:44:03

My rocker arms were a bit wore, but thanks to MnSpring I have a new-to-me cylinder head cover with good rocker arms so I'm back on track. I put the camshaft back in (hopefully aligned correctly, see pictures), but the cylinder head cover won't go on flush. What is causing this?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/09/15 at 15:44:41

Camshaft Marks

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/09/15 at 15:45:11

Top Dead Center

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/09/15 at 20:00:18

51534E4B444255474B210 wrote:

the cam key is a half moon shape, put it in the bottom of the groove in the head. not on top of the cam.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/09/15 at 20:18:25

I guess that's an error in the clymer's manual and that to put it under the camshaft I have to take the camshaft all the way back out?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/09/15 at 20:47:06

you should be able to slip it in on 1 side and tap with a hammer.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/09/15 at 21:12:52

Thank you for the help. I looked in the clymer's manual correction thread and that wasn't in it. It might need to be added that the c ring goes under the camshaft instead of over it.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/11/15 at 11:41:23

11 hours later I have most everything back together, adjusted, inspected, stared at for a few hours. Yesterday I put the motor together, put it in the frame (which is REALLY hard to do by yourself), and put the carb, exhaust, tank, etc back on. I reconnected all the electricals as per Clymer's and put the battery in without the box temporarily to see if it would start for me.

The problem is, the neutral light was on yesterday and it would click but never turn over. After maybe about 4 or 5 tries, the neutral light went off and now it won't even click.

So today I borrowed a charger and did 20A for an hour, hooked the battery up and still no neutral light and no click or turn over. I took the battery to O'reillys and they said it was good. The battery has been on 2A trickle charge for about an hour and I don't know what to do.

Also, maybe related, the bike wont go into gear. I put the gear shift mechanism exactly where I marked it when I took it off, but no matter what it won't shift into gear. It stays in neutral, but now the neutral light isn't even coming on.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/11/15 at 11:53:13

Update: I read through some threads with similar problems, and I realized I had the kickstand down when trying to crank it. I went out there, put the battery in, kick stand up, raptor petcock to on, choke pulled out, ignition on, ignition switch on, and it does one click and the decompression lever comes up and goes back down. Neutral light is still off, bike is still in neutral, all lights except brake light work. What do I do?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Art Webb on 03/11/15 at 12:00:40

ry jumping it of a car (DO NOT USE A RUNNING CAR FOR THIS) that rules out a bad / low battery

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/11/15 at 12:28:03

70636566747373110 wrote:

ry jumping it of a car (DO NOT USE A RUNNING CAR FOR THIS) that rules out a bad / low battery

Just tried it. Kickstand up, neutral light still off, clicked and decomp pulled but didn't turn over

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/11/15 at 13:20:28

You had the stator cover off?

pull the starter and test it.
jump it to the battery, + to the post, - to the frame.
have a good hold on it, it will jump.
OK?

next...
reach in with your finger to feel the idle gear...
spin it, it will only go in 1 direction.
spins?
1 direction?
good then it wasn't what I was thinking ( I hope)

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/11/15 at 15:01:36

2D3E2928373A3C3E356A5B0 wrote:

I did have the stator cover off to line up the timing.

Starter tested good.

When I reached in and tried to spin the idler gear, it wouldn't move at all in either direction. Could something be in a bind in there and cause it to not turn over?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/11/15 at 15:20:30

2E2C31343B3D2A38345E0 wrote:

AHA!

there's your problem, very common problem too.

when you took the stator cover off, a washer jumped off and you didn't know where to put it.
so you put it in the worst place to put it and it's jambed the starter.

here's where it goes...
http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/Starter%20Clutch%20Upgrade/washer-location.jpg

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/11/15 at 15:41:05

Ahhhh noooo. I heard the washer fall out and after 30 minutes of trying to figure out which one it came off of, I put it on the wrong one. Well at least I know what it is. Hopefully I can get the stator cover off without messing up the gasket but I doubt I'm that lucky.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/11/15 at 17:39:25

Well I drained the oil, opened the stator cover, moved the washer from wrong to right gear, closed it up, adjusted the gear shift link a little bit, and filled it with new oil. Somehow I am still back where I was before I broke it back apart. Still just a click and the decomp moves when I hit the ignintion. Won't turn over. Any ideas of what it could be now?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/11/15 at 18:34:10

rinse, lather, repeat.

did you check to see if those gears turn now?

there are supposed to be a washer on either side of that gear.
and none on the "X" gear.

and if you tip the bike over about 45°, you can take the cover off without draining the oil. :-?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/11/15 at 18:44:37

I didn't check if the gears turned, I was a bit frustrated by the time I got in the stator cover. I'm pretty sure there's a washer on the other side of the wrong gear as well, but I'll check it tomorrow. I was unsure if I could get away with leaning it over and saving the oil so I just went again and got new oil, but I'll be saving it this time.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/12/15 at 11:10:47

Today I tilted the bike at a 45, took the stator cover back off, took the other washer that was on the wrong gear and put it on the right gear for a total of 0 on the x gear and one on each side of the other gear, put it back together, took the starter out, spun the gear on the inside in the only direction that it would spin, put the starter back on, connected the battery, ignition on, kick stand up, gas on, choke all the way out, neutral light still off but in neutral, and it still clicked once and the decomp pulled. What do I do next?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Serowbot on 03/12/15 at 11:23:42

Is it possible that you have the idler gear on backwards?...

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/12/15 at 11:34:59

That could very well be a possibility. When I took the starter off and spun that gear through the hole, it spun CCW looking at it from the right side of the bike. That would mean that from the left side the X gear is spinning CW, the other gear CCW, and the big gear CW. That's backwards isn't it, because the big gear is supposed to spin CCW right?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/12/15 at 11:45:12

As long as it spins, it should be ok.
I think there's enough clearance and engagement, it doesn't matter which way it's on.

check that you're getting power to the starter with a voltmeter.

it could be that the relay is stuck, use a plastic hammer or screwdriver and give the fender a couple of raps right below the ig switch to free it up.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/12/15 at 12:38:29

I'll have to borrow a voltmeter, all I have is a test light. I hooked it up to the starter with the ign switch on, and it has a dull light. When I hit the start button it got about twice as bright. I'll still get a voltmeter when I can and get some numbers on here.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/12/15 at 15:04:21

Alright I know zero to nothing about these multimeters, but the guy I borrowed it from told me to test on the setting shown in the picture for a 12V battery. I still have it if I need to do more with it.
With the ignition off, the battery read 26.1 and starter read 0.00
With the ignition on, the battery read 25.5 and starter read 21.6
I also tried hitting the fender with the handle of a screwdriver with no effect on the cranking. What do I try next?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/12/15 at 15:19:21

You have it on AC (alternating current) designated by the ~ sign

Put it on the DC side - over ...

The meter is autoscaling, so any setting over 12v is ok, 20 would be the minimum setting.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/12/15 at 15:39:50

Second time's the charm. On this setting I got these numbers:
Ignition off: battery 12.34, starter 0.00
Ignition on: battery 11.95, starter 9.92

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/13/15 at 08:04:08

How do these numbers look and what do I need to do next? And why does the neutral light still not come on and it won't shift into gear?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/13/15 at 08:34:11

2D2F3237383E293B375D0 wrote:

Second time's the charm. On this setting I got these numbers:
Ignition off: battery 12.34, starter 0.00
Ignition on: battery 11.95, starter 9.92

Is that Ig on, starter ON ?
and where do you have the probes?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/13/15 at 08:40:08

Black probe on the negative battery terminal, red probe on the wire that screws to the top of the starter. Key turned to on. Can't hit the ignition button, not enough hands since I have to pull the clutch in too.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by hotprops on 03/13/15 at 08:55:44

in that cofig it should be 0 at the starter . zip tie the clutch back and the hit the start button should be around 12v .
i am guessing bad seloniod and if it has been feeding the starter with voltage as it now appears might have caused damage to it .
also sounds like the battery needs charging.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/13/15 at 09:31:56

Alright, zip tied the clutch, black probe on battery negative and red probe on starter wire
Ignition on: 9.88
Ignition on and pressing the start button: 11.68
Are you talking about the starter solenoid under the seat and behind the ignition switch being bad?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/13/15 at 09:36:24

7A7865606F697E6C600A0 wrote:

Ig or power is a switch/key
starter is a button

Understand about not having enough hands, but she never said that. ;)

So you're using the red probe to check the bat voltage and the starter voltage.
and yes, starter should be 0 in both cases.

potentially you have a bad relay and a bad starter.
or you've measured wrong.
Oh, and you can have a bad decomp controller, that's another reason why you can have volts with button off.

If the starter has volts, it should be spinning. you said you tested it and it was good.
jump the battery positive lead to the starter terminal and it should turn, if you have the ig on, might start, so have it in neutral.

if the volts goes below 10v with the starter turning, it won't start. and you need to charge it or replace the battery.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/13/15 at 09:37:57

5C5E4346494F584A462C0 wrote:

do you have your values backwards?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by hotprops on 03/13/15 at 09:40:56

should be no voltage at the starter terminal till starter button is pressed.
did the neutral bulb ever work? do you have someone who can push start you?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by hotprops on 03/13/15 at 09:49:09

question foe verslagen does the starter selonid operate the decomp as well?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/13/15 at 10:18:37

I jumped the positive terminal to the starter terminal and nothing happened, could that mean a bad ground? Those values are right, I just went and rechecked them. The voltage went up when I hit the starter button.

The neutral bulb worked the other day when I first tried to crank it after I finished getting the motor together and back in the frame. I'm not sure if trying to shift out of neutral is what turned it off or it just turned off. Either way it won't shift out of neutral or I would have already tried to roll is down a hill and jump start it. I'll try to play around with the shifter mechanism and see if I can't get it to go into gear.

I just don't understand why it's doing this since it turned over fine last fall before I tore it down. There is always the possibility that I overlooked something, or didn't do something the right was (washers on the idler gears). Thanks for taking the time to try to help me. It's been over a year since I bought this motorcycle and I haven't even heard it run!

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/13/15 at 11:30:44

60677C787A67787B080 wrote:

question foe verslagen does the starter selonid operate the decomp as well?

no, the decomp controller does that... little black box above the carb.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 03/13/15 at 11:50:32

3B3924212E283F2D214B0 wrote:

You got multiple issues, and I don't know what to tell you.
I would probably disconnect stuff till an issue became apparent.

Quote:

The neutral bulb worked the other day when I first tried to crank it after I finished getting the motor together and back in the frame. I'm not sure if trying to shift out of neutral is what turned it off or it just turned off. Either way it won't shift out of neutral or I would have already tried to roll is down a hill and jump start it. I'll try to play around with the shifter mechanism and see if I can't get it to go into gear.

any chance that you are in gear and just don't know it?
the shifter arm should point straight down, usually you can shift 1 way but not the other when it not.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/20/15 at 08:10:57

Well it took a while, but finally adjusted the external gear shift mechanism so that it shifts up and down just fine. After reading through a couple of threads on here, it sounded like I had a bad ground. Rewired it and got my neutral light to come on. Tried to start it and it turned right over. Put the gas tank and air filter on, and after almost an entire year I finally heard it run for the first time. I have to say the old 650 sounds darn good. After a good 5 seconds of pure joy that hours and days and weeks and months have added up to, I heard a sound like a coke can opening and oil went everywhere. Looks like I put the oil filter on backwards. I'm not even mad about it, ain't no use in it. I'm just glad I finally got to hear it run. In a week or so when I get my new oil filter cover and put the filter in the RIGHT way, I'll try it again. Hopefully that's all that will go wrong. Until then I guess I finally need to get an updated tag and some insurance so I can hit the road after a final inspection.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 03/20/15 at 09:27:25

Oooops! :o

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Art Webb on 03/20/15 at 10:55:44

seeing that makes me paranois about my own oil change, but i already rode it 50 miles or so, I'm likely ok
Sorry that happened to you, man

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/30/15 at 17:23:42

Today I received my oil filter cover and fork seals in the mail. Took the old cover off, turned the oil filter the right way, and put the new oil filter cover on. Put new oil in and cranked right up. I got to enjoy it for about 15 seconds this time before I noticed yet another puddle of oil under the motorcycle. The culprit is in the picture below. That metal spacer or whatever blew out a bit and oil came rushing out. The only thing I could think of was a) the drive pulley should be on before the motor is started or b) I have another problem somewhere. Any thoughts?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 03/30/15 at 17:24:15

Came out easily:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/30/15 at 18:29:26

282A37323D3B2C3E32580 wrote:

We have seen that twice, at dealerships. Fatalities both times. Best of luck.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 04/01/15 at 03:52:48

6C6E7376797F687A761C0 wrote:

I got to enjoy it for about 15 seconds this time before I noticed yet another puddle of oil under the motorcycle. That metal spacer or whatever blew out a bit and oil came rushing out. The only thing I could think of was a) the drive pulley should be on before the motor is started. Any thoughts?

Yes....the drive pulley should be in place before you start the bike. The crankcase has a lot of huffing and puffing going on when the engine is running, and with the drive pulley removed you have an open "wound" on the engine. The oil will squirt out that opening....same as if you left the fill cap off.

Put the drive pulley on, install the nut with some threadlocker on it, torgue it to 100 foot pounds, and then bend the lock washer in place. You don't want to take any short cuts here....and loose drive pulley will ruin the output shaft splines.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/01/15 at 04:18:22

That makes sense. I was hoping that was all it was instead of something huge. I got worried about JOG's post when I saw the word "fatality" and was a bit worried until I noticed he quoted my post about the oil filter being put on backwards. I admit I had a good laugh after the fact. The output splines are a bit messed up and chewed up the inside of my drive pulley to where it's pointy when it should have squared off cogs on the inside. I got a new one, but I'm not sure if I should put it or the old one on before addressing the issue of the output spline. What are your thoughts on that? I kept the drive pulley off, because my rear tire had some deep cracks in it and the tread was getting to the point of needing replaced. I got a Shinko 712 off motorcycle superstore for half what any dealership wanted for the same tire. The only problem I ran into was that there's only one place within about 60 miles that will put on a motorcycle tire if you don't buy it from them. I finally found a place and I should have it back today. So here's hoping today is my first ride on the Savage.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 04/01/15 at 04:26:56

Jog's "fatality" referred to the fact that both times the aluminum cover exploded. The good news is that it shows your oil pump has good pressure!

If the output shaft splines show any sign of wear....use the new pulley and also use the product for restoring the fit on worn shafts. I am going to have to search a bit to find it. You can't screw around with this shaft, as it requires a complete engine tear down to repair if the shaft is damaged beyond use.

Clean all the oil off the shaft, pulley and nut...used brake clean or a similar product and get is completely clean. Apply the shaft restoration product on the splines, install the pulley and lock washer, apply thread locker to the threads, torque it to 96 - 100 ft.lbs, and then bend up the lock washer in a couple places.

Then go riding and stop worrying about it...you have done the best you can.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/01/15 at 04:45:13

I was hoping the output spline wouldn't be much of a problem this time around. This is what I'm working with at the moment:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/01/15 at 04:45:47

Chewed up my old drive pulley pretty good too:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 04/01/15 at 05:00:04

OK....here is a thread on the topic.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1406924942/18#18

You definitely need to use the new pulley, clean off the shaft to remove all grease, and then use the threadlocker.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/01/15 at 05:11:47

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll track some down before I put the pulley back on. Hopefully a local auto parts store will have it.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 04/01/15 at 05:44:53

54564B4E414750424E240 wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll track some down before I put the pulley back on. Hopefully a local auto parts store will have it.

Or Graingers, or Fastenal....or a really good hardware store.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/01/15 at 06:26:15

So far I've tried advanced auto parts, o'reilly's, fastenal, and napa. Napa is the only ones that said it was a valid PN, but said it was obsolete. The only NAPA in the US that has it is Salt Lake City, Utah and they won't ship chemicals. I've found it online at
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/permatex-bearing-mount-adhesive-for-worn-parts-6ml-tube-carded-20297.html
http://www.race-mart.com/product.asp?itemid=322937&gclid=CMfOt9Oa1cQCFchQ7Aod0xkAZA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321420651659?lpid=82&chn=ps
It seems they quit making the stuff or replaced it with something. It looks like I'll be getting it online for $6 and slapped with a $10 shipping fee for a 6mL tube.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/01/15 at 10:49:40

I went ahead and got some off
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/permatex-bearing-mount-adhesive-for-worn-parts-6ml-tube-carded-20297.html
I called in an order and they said they only had 3 left in stock. They did USPS flat rate shipping so my total came out to a little over $12. The ebay one seemed sketchy since there was an "extended handling time greater than 9 business days." The race-mart one had a minimum order of 6 I believe and shipping was higher. Just letting y'all know in case you need some since I guess they discontinued the stuff.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 04/01/15 at 11:04:21

The numbers on these products sure are confusing....I am sure they still make a similar product but have changed the number on the bottle/tube.

JB Weld might even be a better product.

The Permatex has a 3,000 psi strength and is good to 300 degrees.

The JB Weld has a 3,960 psi strength and is good to 550 degrees.

http://www.jbweld.com/products/j-b-weld-twin-tube

With either one...you are going to have to heat the sprocket up with a torch before you can slide it off....the Permatex stuff won't need as much heat.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/01/15 at 18:21:21

I've seen some Permatex bearing mount for closed/relaxed fits. Maybe that's what superseded it. I might have should got some JB Weld, but I wanted to be able to take the pulley off in the future without too much force. I know I'll need to heat the bearing mount up to get it to free up, and heard getting JB Weld to free up was almost as bad as an actual weld. Hopefully the Permatex will work for what I need it for. It better since I had to go out of my way and spend half a day trying to find the stuff, when the JB Weld was sitting on every shelf of every parts store in town. Got the rear tire back and on today. All that's left is the drive pulley and belt. I'll take some pictures of the finished product when I get it all the way back together unless something else proves to be problematic.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/07/15 at 11:14:29

As of today, my bike is 99% back together (minus the tool kit cover on the battery that just doesn't want to go on). Everything is adjusted, inspected, filled, etc. Cranked up no problem, didn't puke oil everywhere, and sounds amazing. I might not even have to straight pipe it like I thought I might. First test drive went well. Shifted nicely, rode smoothly. Maybe I'll take it out for a short trip this afternoon. I did notice that the exhaust started smoking from the header down to where the muffler starts. As it heated up it gradually cleared out. Must have been something in there that shouldn't have been. I'll keep a check on it to see if it clears up. I'll try to get some pictures of the finished product up on here sometime this week and will let y'all know how a few rounds about town go. It feels good to be back on two wheels and I thank everyone that made it happen.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/13/15 at 17:10:09

I made a pretty good loop around town the other day. Still smoking, but not too bad. Oil level was fine when I got back.

I did have a neighbor come over and tell me my brake light wasn't working. He was right, neither front nor rear brake depressed made the brake light shine. The running light worked, and I noticed y'all recommended checking the bulb as it a dual filament. Changed it out with a new one with the same results. The front brake lever clicks when depressed. Where is the switch for it? I know the rear brake switch is behind the muffler on the swingarm, I'll attempt to adjust it soon. Somebody said it was easy to get to with the muffler off so I'll remove it and see if I can't find a leak while it's off.

Also, it backfires pretty loud coming off high RPMs. I have a pancake K&N filter, and I think the PO may have drilled the exhaust. May need rejetting, I'll see what LANCER recommends one of these days. I've made a few necks pop around after a good "belch of power" as verslagen1 calls it.

The last thing (for now I guess) is the leaking fork seals. I've already bought them, but was wondering if I should go ahead and replace them or wait til this winter and ride all summer.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/22/15 at 15:04:32

I promised a few picture so here you go. A late night hunger run to Waffle House:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/22/15 at 15:06:00

And I tried to get scenic with this lock and dam in the middle of about a fifty mile joyride:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 04/22/15 at 15:08:53

any picture with a savage is either scenic or artistic, some can be artistic scenes.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/22/15 at 15:59:03

Does this video sound like the cam chain death rattle?

https://youtu.be/CeGqmqywNUA

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 04/22/15 at 16:21:01

Pretty hard to tell, feel the cover by the oil filter cover.
if you feel a tappin that's it.

otherwise, go at it with a mech's stethoscope.
try to locate the tappin.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/23/15 at 16:11:27

I didn't feel any tapping on the oil filter or clutch cover all the way around. I was worried because it has 33,7XX miles on it, and the one thing I meant to do and forgot to do was measure the cam chain while I had the motor in pieces. So the first thing that came to mind was stupid me, and how I get to tear it all the way back down after putting it all the way back together. Plus dealing with that bearing mount and the drive pulley nut would be the icing on the cake.

It sounds like it's coming more from the top of the cylinder, and somebody suggested it might be valve tap. Are the valves being out of wack what causes that or could it be a worn camshaft or am I wrong on both accounts?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/24/15 at 15:34:48

Well today my neutral light quit working, and when I put the kickstand down in neutral my bike dies. I should probably stop asking questions on this thread, but it's my rags to riding story. Any ideas on what could be funking up my wiring?

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 04/24/15 at 15:43:21

2A2835303F392E3C305A0 wrote:

well... your kickstand safety works ;D

sounds like you light isn't dead, it's just off.
I'm not sure if a burnt out light will cause the safety not to work.
but would be the 1st thing to check.
then make the wire is still connected.
then check to see if the neutral switch works.
it's possible the diode is burnt out too.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/24/15 at 15:53:59

I'll try that tomorrow, already broke into the PBR today.

For this afternoon, a little story from earlier:
I drove up to the local Toyota dealership that I have at almost every Summer. I made some good friends that I still keep close. One of which found my Savage on Craigslist, the other of which went with me to check it out since I had no clue what to look for. Today I rode it up there for the first time. Of course they couldn't help but marvel, rode it, and commented on how smooth and powerful it was. One of them had to go back to work , but the other one was on his lunch break. We talked for a while and come to find out he has a 70s model Harley Ironhead project. Come to find out he has an old Daytona bucket helmet and wants to give it to me. If it turns out to be what I hope it is I'll post some pictures. I have a pretty small head so if its anything over a medium its a no go. I'm being hopeful for now and I'm supposed to go pick it up tomorrow.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by WD on 04/24/15 at 19:46:55

Kick stand switch is a well known common failure. The one on my 1998 lasted about 6 weeks, before I had to cut the wires and twist them together, capped with a small gray or blue wire nut. Never had another electrical issue from the safeties.

Won't get into the other electrical gremlins, since you're finally getting a chance to play with your bike...

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/29/15 at 15:31:22

Well I feel stupid. Took the tank off today and found that the zip tie I used to hold the wires up the backbone together undid the neutral wire. Plugged it back up, and it was like nothing ever happened. I did get that helmet. It's pretty nice, especially to be free. It was the first time my buddy ever did pinstripe, and that was a decade ago. Here it is:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/29/15 at 15:31:52

The back:

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/29/15 at 15:33:41

But I will admit when he said "Daytona bucket helmet," this was the first thing that came to mind. So I'm slightly disappointed, but still pretty darn happy with my new lid.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Art Webb on 04/29/15 at 22:07:48

A decade? is this helmet that old?
According to helmet manufacturers the EPS dries up and gets brittle over time, most recommend replacing a helmet when it gets to 5-7 years old, just so you know
Glad you got the issue worked out man, enjoy your ride

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/30/15 at 06:57:18

53404645575050320 wrote:
According to helmet manufacturers the EPS dries up and gets brittle over time, most recommend replacing a helmet when it gets to 5-7 years old, just so you know

Agreed. I have a collection of beautiful helmets at home that I no longer use due to their age. Additionally, any helmet that has "done its job" should be retired as well. They are only designed to withstand one compression of the EPS. For that reason, I also have a collection of beautiful dirt helmets too. HJC loves me.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/30/15 at 07:08:53

7C7E6366696F786A660C0 wrote:

The last place it got touched... I've seen it many times over the decades.
Even if it's been a month, say, pulled the tank, everything is dandy, suddenly, develop an electrical issue,, go back, see if a wire got pinched.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 04/30/15 at 11:36:54

I checked the lining and it said "March 2011." Maybe he's been painting for a decade, but not pinstriping as long? Just another communication error. Either way, it's not THAT old. After I reconnected the neutral wire, I went for a short ride yesterday. About 15 minutes in, my speedometer quit working. Brought it home, let it cool down, unscrewed the cable end to find this (lucky me) :

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Dave on 04/30/15 at 12:00:41

I have an inner cable in good shape. A $ 5.00 bill would get it delivered to you.

Dave

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Art Webb on 05/01/15 at 11:52:52

The more I read about the speedo issues the more I lean toward deleting the thing in favor of a Garmin or some GPS speedo

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/01/15 at 15:27:33

Mine had the infamous squeaky rattle. Ingenuity and some adhesive foam from a window unit A.C. and that was solved. That's the first cable I've seen die. The location is the biggest turn off for me. Eyes down, focus, back to the road,focus, but really, when did I NEED to see it,?

Well , school zones, and every now and then running alone, no traffic to be in sync with, aaaaand when I was seeing if it's hitting the ton and entering a corner I'd been working on and,exit speed, to see if I was improving,,
So, yeah, I could get behind seeing someone ditch it, but not because of functionality or dependability,, the hassle of fixing that hole seems like a pretty big deal to me. Or, leaving it in,, I could see that, idk about how your state does it, but we have to have a High beam indicator light to pass inspection.

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by Art Webb on 05/03/15 at 18:05:39

there are a few threads where the fool things start leaking oil, and Old Rider's was doing it pretty badly at one point during the Sisters ride, now a snapped cable on this bike
Never saw so many issues with the old front axle driven speedos
it'd be pretty easy to just put a pipe cap over the hole in the engine case, keep the lights as are

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/03/15 at 18:13:00

I lost the o ring. Took a TooBig o ring, cut it at an angle with dikes, cut again, fit, stuffed it in, never leaked. No pressure there.
Again, first time I've seen a cable issue. Id have to see the routing, inspect for clues to a hard bend one day...

Title: Re: My First Savage
Post by projectfj on 08/03/15 at 02:46:28

I never really closed this thread properly, but ever since I got the bike in running order I've put over 1k miles on it. All in all, I could have bought a decently new Savage with far less miles for what it cost me to get mine back running the roads. However, I've enjoyed learning so much from all the fine members of this forum as well as the Clymer's manual and some hard trial and error. Thank all of you that helped me either directly or indirectly in my rebuild. I'll be lurking around the forum trying to learn as much as I can and hopefully I can help others in the future.