No, you can flip back & forth between syn and dino until you either grow hair on your palms or else mebbe you go blind first ....

Seriously, old bike seals and old bike gaskets will leak more with synthetic oils, especially old Honda seals and gaskets.

Verslagen flipped through a bunch of oil brands one time in the same engine that was a BIG oil consumer, ask him about the "can't go back" question.   He may have first hand knowledge on the subject.


==========


Got one that may be worthy of the list ZDDP ppm wise.   availability sucks though .... no JASO either.

Is Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50 good for roller and flat tappet cams?
Mobil 1 Racing oils offer boosted levels of anti-wear protection (nominal zinc level of 1850 ppm) for extra engine protection in highly loaded flat tappet engine designs.

You say that Mobil 1 Racing oils are not for street use.  Why is that?  Does that mean I can't use these oils if my race car is also my daily driver?
Automotive street use oils that meet the latest industry standards are required to have a lower level of Zinc and Phosphorus anti-wear chemistries than oils formulated years ago.  The latest automotive street use engine oils are designed to be compatible with emission control equipment.  Mobil 1 Racing oils are formulated with anti-wear (Zinc/Phosphorus) chemistries at twice the level of automotive street oils to provide enhanced protection of highly loaded valve train systems found in some race engines.  Based on the high level of anti-wear chemistries, Mobil 1 Racing oils are not recommended for street use.

Where can I buy the Mobil 1 Racing oils? And in what size containers?
Mobil 1 Racing oils are available to buy online at the Mobil 1 Racing Store.  Package sizes include quarts (6 quarts per case) as well as 55-gallon drums and full pallets for race teams and small businesses.


     Jest kiddin'   You can buy Vavoline Racing dino based 20w50 locally a whole lot easier and cheaper and it will be just as use limited as this Mobil 1 racing oil would be.

rl153 wrote on 08/05/12 at 16:37:12:

Yes and No,  alot depends on how long you use the syn vrs dino and also what quality of the oil was.  Syn oil swells the seals differently then dino oil does plus most quality Syn oils clean better then dino oils do, But if your not changing your oil at the proper time after the change this could also be a factor as this could lead to seal contamination and wear your seals out quicker as well.

R.F.

Used 20W50 back in the day for my quarter-mile cars.

With South Florida having two seasons, hot and humid-hot, started running the stuff in my 06 for the past two years. Runs about 10 bucks a quart at Pep-Boys. No leaks. Figure the air-cooled engine here could use the help.

Mobil 1 automotive spec red top 20W50 was THE oil for years when I rode Kawasaki v-twins. Worked great, until they screwed with the formula. 15 wiped out clutches on one forum over a two week period sounded THAT blend's death knell.

If the oil you think about using meets current HD specs, don't use it in an older style engine. Shovelhead and newer were available with roller lifters and roller rockers. As long is it is oil, they'll run it. Your antique valve train won't.

I know from my own bikes that Castrol Actevo and Spectro/Golden Spectro (synthetic) are a bad idea. Ditto any of the Quaker State or Pennzoil off the shelf car/truck oils (waxy and/or disappear in a hurry). Cost me a VN800 engine, blew the con rod bearings.

How do you think I feel, we don't even get most of the stuff you are discussing !

 
Yup, I'm a right meanie -- told them budding Ryca builders their bikes might hurt their wrists, inner thighs and backs after a half hour or so of riding them too.   (was based on testimony from the 20 somethings that had just finished their RYCAs and were just starting to ride them some)  Warned the average age SuzukiSavage.com 50+ year olds it wasn't such a good idea to build a very uncomfortable RYCA out of their fairly comfortable Savage.  

Reminded them that our purpose built bobbers get more comfortable rather than less (you pick your big assed Hurley seat for comfort and you set it up to fit your own leg length and arm reach) and that kit built RYCAs simply aren't comfortable for anybody (built not to be).

Was convicted as a "hater" and was sent to Tartarus to swim in the pig poop for a one month period fer that little expose.  Remember, no good deed goes unpunished ....      


Being fair, RYCA responded by offering up some bobber kits and other construction styles that might be more comfortable to ride than the original RYCA cafe kit bike, but since no-one has built and ridden any of these we really don't know for sure yet.

Now I've went and done told the newbies showing up lately that their habits of slamming anything that pours into their Savage engine might well be the cause of the "clicky - knocky" they got going on with their engine.

  .........    mean, jest plain mean     

What should piss them newbies off royally is the Suzuki brand oil the dealership is using to service their bikes DOES NOT MEET THE ZDDP REQUIREMENTS FOR THE SAVAGE ENGINE EITHER.

I'm gonna to ride on over to Pep Boys and look at their motorcycle oil display and see if their is anything they regularly stock that can tide us over until some VOAs get posted on all the rest of this brand new "reformulated & new and improved" motorcycle oil nonsense we got going on.

Until then, forget the list ---- ain't got anything much to put on it.   Since I like the Rotella products if we put out a list with only that on it ol'Bill would be clamoring that it was all bias and unfair.

bill67 wrote on 08/06/12 at 06:17:50:


Suzuki is buying "packaged oil" from SOPUS (yes, that's Shell Oil Products United States) that appears to be an SL automobile formulation from its internals.  Suzuki gets slammed for giving it a SH/SJ rating, but as I explained before SJ says "no more than 1,000 ppm of ZDDP and SH HAD no minimum number to it, so this oil actually does meet the SH/SJ rating that is on the bottle.   Suzuki is no better, no worse than any of the rest of the "motorcycle oil" clowns right now with their funny & conflicting old obsolete API standards.

Still, the oil has way way too little ZDDP to support the flat tappets in a Savage engine.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showthreaded&Number=1...

 
The rest of us need some oil that we can buy locally that doesn't require us to put our first born child up for sale to get it .....

Right now the only "proven" locally available JASO oil that does meet the Savage requirements is Rotella T and Rotella T-6 which is available everywhere and doesn't cost a bunch either.

We will find others, I am sure of it.   It will just take some time for the VOAs to show up and mebbe some of our Brand XX fan boys are going to have to part with $20 to get some VOAs done to prove their Brand XX labeling isn't full of pig poo like so many are now-a-days.

(It is really bad when oil corporations use SF/SH/SJ ratings to lie to the purchasing public.  You tell us SF and SH and visions of 1,400 to 1,600 ppm ZDDP start dancing in our heads, but then you weasel through the loopholes to give us less than 1,000 ppm and THAT JUST SUCKS ROCKS to me)