DragBikeMike wrote on 01/05/21 at 15:29:12:


Great work as usual, Mike.  Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!  I read thru the entire process.  When I got to the part "set with red Loctite, in which case you're screwed", I realized I'd be the "you're screwed" person.  I am Murphy's Law.

Paul, you don't torque the studs when you reinstall them.  You simply screw them in until the shoulder hits the engine case.  Should take a little over 15 turns.

Each stud has a top and a bottom.  You can identify the bottom by the shoulder on the body of the stud.  Below the shoulder there should be about 16 threads.  You want all of those threads engaged into the aluminum case to achieve adequate strength.

This is the bottom of a stud.  See the shoulder just above the threads?

Oil migrates into three of the stud holes, right-front, left-rear, and left-front.  

The right-front stud and left-rear stud have dowels that are situated around the stud.  The dowel hole reduces the sealing surface between the dowel hole and the bore in the engine case.  There is almost no sealing surface, so oil migrates across the gasket and collects in the stud hole.

See how narrow the sealing surface is.

Ironically, the right-rear stud is the only stud that terminates within the confines of the engine.  The right-rear head nut is inside the head cover, so it is continuously bathed in oil.  The copper washer under the head nut should seal that off and prevent oil from leaking into the stud hole.  But the right-rear stud is also exposed to atmosphere via an opening in the back of the cylinder.  You can actually see the right rear stud if you look at the back of the cylinder.

Since the right-rear stud is exposed to atmosphere, it is also exposed to weather, and pressure washers, and garden hoses, etc.  I never wash my bike, I give it a sponge bath from time to time (not nearly enough but it's not a beauty queen, it's a test lab).

So, your concern on the right-rear stud is water.  It will be wise to also suck that stud hole out before reinstalling the studs.

There is no guarantee that you will be able to remove the two rear studs.  If they are super-stuck in their stud holes from corrosion or Loctite or some other sealant, you won't be able to break them loose.  If that's the case, you won't be any worse off.  You will have to pull the whole motor.  But if you can get them out using the split nut method, I think it will make the job easier for you.  I prefer working on the top end with the engine in the frame.  It's very stable and there's plenty of access to everything.  Out on the bench you need an engine stand, and the darned thing is heavy and tall.

DragBikeMike wrote on 12/07/23 at 15:56:53:


I have cleaned/pressure washed an old engine to get the gunk off prior to taking it apart.  I got it washed and used an electric bike blow drier to get the water out of the fins and other parts.  The engine was moved into the garage and up on my work bench.  It was about a week later when I finally got it apart and removed the head and cylinder.  Even after a week of being up on my work bench, there was still water down in the void around the right rear cylinder stud?

I do wash my bike frequently.....I love a clean bike!  However - I never put my bike away wet after washing.  Not only does the right rear stud hold water - the top of the cylinder head, wiring and connectors all can stay wet for long periods of time if you just wash the bike and shove it into the garage and shut the door.  I always take my bike on a ride after washing and get it up to operating temperature and up to speed to dry things out.

The right rear stud can also be an issue with an oil leak if you don't get the copper washer/nut sealed.  One of our members developed a leak there after he re-torqued the head as Suzuki recommends.....on this forum we don't recommend that or believe it is necessary on the Savage - if you do a good job on the first torque it isn't necessary to go back and do it over later.

They are 24mm long.

Grab the coupling nut in a vice.

Use a M9 x 1.25 tap.  These Irwin taps are cheap and readily available.  Amazon, ebay, etc.