Bravo!

Armen, I'm pretty sure you will be able to use your technique to install the cylinder with piston but I assure you there's no wrestling involved when you use a ring compressor.  The jug glides right over those rings.  Regarding puller length, the LH jack-bolt is 50mm long so it dictated puller length.

Niceast, thanks for the vid.  Sometimes I just can't see the forest for all the trees.  Never thought of simply pivoting the head around the tall stud.  Cool.  Sure wish I could understand what the guy is saying.

Versy, it wouldn't surprise me if a coupling nut with a continuously threaded M9x1.25 bolt worked just as well as my LH rig.

Thanks to all for the questions and comments.

Thanks Mike!
I just ordered bolts and taps and such for this project.
Found a 10x1.5x60mm hex bolt, so I'll make the puller a little longer to be able to grab it easier.
As far as installing the stud, I'll make another tool for that.
Do you happen to have a measurement for how much the stud sits above the surface of the head? I'll make the install tool with a depth (at the 9mm end) that matches the stud protrusion, so that the tool will bottom out against the head when the stud is at the right height.
Keep it coming!
thanks,
-Armen

Hey Mike,
This all begs the question-how about changing those studs to bolts?  Do you happen to have the length of the stuff that sticks out of the case?
Save the stud extractor VooDoo. Just wrench the bolts out.
Seems like if you switch to something common, like 10MM studs, it shouldn't be too hard to find (or make) bolts.
Waddayatink?
thanks

Woof!
So, I decided to sorta copy your idea and make a stud removal tool for an Airhead BMW. The Beemer uses a 10x1.5mm stud.
I bought a length of aluminum hex stock, a 10x1.5 LH tap, and a LH hex bolt.
Cut a piece of aluminum to about 60mm, tapped one end RH and the other end LH.
Put the giz on the stud, snugged up the LH bolt, and then cranked on it real hard with a wrench.
The remover unscrewed itself from the stud.
Tried every possible way of holding the giz, tightening the bolt, and no matter what, the whole mess unscrewed from the stud.
I'm wondering whey yours worked so much better?
is it because the thread pitch is different between the extractor bolt and the stud?
Maybe.
So, now what?
Maybe I get a 12x1.75 LH tap and bolt?
Waddayatink?
thanks

Mike,
So, heres the gag:
First time I yanked one of the BMW studs was in the 70's, and it came out very easily.
Recently I've done a few of the later bikes, and the studs were insano tough to get out. Last one I did I had the head off, and thoroughly destroyed the stud trying to remove it. If they are using thread sealant, I don't see it on the threads. If it was a tight thread fit (BMW liked to do that), heat and double nut should have worked.
I've had other reasons in the past for removing the studs. This time, I was trying to swap out the rusty nasty stud/washer/nut for nice stainless ones.
Made the studs. Easy enough. Got a stick of stainless threaded rod and cut to size. Cleaned up the ends.
I'd like to be able to do this without pulling the head. The top and bottom studs are the ones out in the breeze getting rusty and nasty.
I thought I'd use your scheme and remove the stud in place.
I had a spare cylinder, so it was easy to try your gizmo.
One side came out easily, the other side NG. No amount of tightening the tool, bolt, Kroil, heat, hitting it, whatever got the stud to turn. All that happened was the tool unscrewed. Double nut was equally worthless.

Thats when I stepped back and realized that I had used the same pitch (1.50) for the remover as was on the stud. Scratched my head a bit and realized that was the problem.
Of course, by that point I had bought two 10x1.5 LH taps, as well as an assortment of 10x1.5 LH bolts.
So, I thought I'd go to 12x1.75 LH. Oh boy howdy does that oddball metric stuff get expensive!
Had an attack of common sense and realized that inch thread stuff would be cheaper. 1/2x13 is around the same as 12x2mm. Even better!
So, I just ordered a 1/2-13 LH tap and will chase down some LH bolts.
I'll let you know how it works.
In the meantime, I guess I can make the puller you described for the Savage, as well as one for an 8x1.25 for good luck.
Thanks again for sharing your wisdom!

I was half asleep the other night - and my mind wandered to the "double nut" method of removing a stud.

There has been a time or two where the 2 nuts just would not grip tight enough to get the stud out.

So.....would there be additional clamping force if you used 3 or 4 nuts?  I realize that sometimes there may not be room - but my thought is that the clamping force would double if you used 3 nuts rather than 2.

Dave, since all of the typical methods rely on friction, I suspect stacking additional nuts would probably improve the bite.  Each additional nut increases the length of engagement between internal and external threads.  More engagement equals more friction.  

If you stacked three nuts,  would probably be best to jam the middle nut against the top nut, and then jam the bottom nut against the middle nut.  Turn the bottom nut to remove the stud.  I haven't seen many applications that are generous enough with thread protrusion to allow three nuts.  But it would be useful in those instances where the head has been removed.

JOG, Loctite might be a good option too.  Clean the threads.  Then apply primer.  Then install the pulling device with the Loctite (262, 271 or 272) on the threads and fully tighten the pulling device.  Let the mess set up for a day or two.  Then, pull the stud.  If you are lucky and the stud comes out, use a propane torch to heat up the pulling tool so that it can be removed from the stud.

Sounds to me like Armen had an especially tight stud, or it was corroded, or set with thread sealant.  I'm glad he was able to get it out.  Armen, I'm confident that your skills are a notch or two better than mine.  You simply had a case of stuck-stud.