SuzukiSavage.com - Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Frame

DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4197 Honolulu	Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram Reply #15 - 01/05/21 at 15:35:52 Viola! The cylinder is off. It was easy to get off, but the piston is all the way at bottom dead center. To get it back together, the piston will have to be a lot higher to allow using a ring compressor. There won’t be as much room between the frame and cylinder.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4197 Honolulu	Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram Reply #16 - 01/05/21 at 15:36:24 A new piston support is in order. About ¾” thick works fine.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4197 Honolulu	Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram Reply #17 - 01/05/21 at 15:37:15 The ¾” thick piston support holds the piston in position while the cylinder is installed over the piston & rings. The ring compressor allows cylinder installation without snagging a ring. With the studs gone, it’s easy to remove the ring compressor.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4197 Honolulu	Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram Reply #18 - 01/05/21 at 15:38:01 On goes the cylinder.
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DragBikeMike

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Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram
Reply #19 - 01/05/21 at 15:38:33

In the future, my projects will be a lot easier. Being able to remove and install the cylinder head and cylinder with the engine still in the frame will save a bunch of time. It will also allow me to lighten the load if I need to take the whole engine out of the frame. I’m getting on in years and I can no longer lift the entire engine assembly. I have been partially disassembling it to lighten things up. Now, with the head and cylinder removed, it will be a lot lighter and there will be a lot more clearance. All good. My poor old back is a happy camper.

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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4197 Honolulu	Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram Reply #20 - 01/05/21 at 15:39:06 This project wasn’t done yet. Why not come up with a good tool for removing ALL of the cylinder-studs? The tool in this picture will remove all four cylinder-studs and it does it a lot faster than the split-nut trick.
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DragBikeMike

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Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram
Reply #21 - 01/05/21 at 15:39:40

The body of the stud remover is 5/8” aluminum bar stock. It has left-hand and right-hand internal threads (like a turn buckle). A left-hand bolt (M10x1.5x50mm) is used to jam the puller to the stud. Once the puller is jammed to the stud, you can back the stud out by turning the jam-bolt counter-clockwise. Super-easy, super-fast.

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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4197 Honolulu	Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram Reply #22 - 01/05/21 at 15:40:31 It even works in the rabbit hole for the right-front stud. The wrench is only used when you lock the tool with the jam-bolt. Then remove the wrench and turn the jam-bolt counterclockwise to remove the stud.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4197 Honolulu	Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram Reply #23 - 01/05/21 at 15:41:14 Here is a sketch of the puller body.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4197 Honolulu	Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram Reply #24 - 01/05/21 at 15:41:49 The left-hand bolt is available on Amazon. The first five threads must be filed down to permit the end of the bolt to pass into the 9mm portion of the threaded hole.
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DragBikeMike

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Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram
Reply #25 - 01/05/21 at 15:42:45

Now I’m all set up to do several projects that involve removal of the cylinder head and cylinder. Being able to remove the cylinder head and cylinder without total removal of the engine will make these projects a whole lot easier.

I learned a lot from this project and ended up with a useful tool. Mahalo to Niceast for the inspiration.

I hope you find this report informative. As always, I welcome your questions and comments. It would be great to hear about other techniques used to work on the top end with the engine still nestled in the frame.

Best regards,

Mike

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Hiko Senior Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 250 Tauranga New Zealand Gender:	Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram Reply #26 - 01/05/21 at 16:21:40 More great info Mike
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Armen

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Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram
Reply #27 - 01/05/21 at 16:28:04

Excellent info Mike!
BTW, I usually install a top end by putting the piston in the cylinder and lowering it onto the con rod, then inserting the wrist pin and pin clip.
Is there enough room to do this?
I find wrestling in one pin and one pin clip to be easier than three rings.
I'm super lazy.
I'll be making up a copy of your stud extractor as soon as I order a LH bolt.
thanks!
-Armen

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In theory, theory and reality are the same. In reality, they aren't...

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niceast

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Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram
Reply #28 - 01/05/21 at 18:12:20

Wow super impressive. Like the hard work you put in. I missed the notification.

I was researching anything "suzuki ls650" on youtube and come across a foreigner who was working on his bike.

note: (the video is really long and in a different language). I find it to be very useful before I did my head gasket. It covers most of everything all in one video. The magic happens at 22:30.
https://youtu.be/xspoYyxb3lE?t=1360

I don't recommend it but if you want to make it easier to remove/install the cylinder head. I cut the passenger rear corner of the cylinder head's top fin for that extra 10mm clearance. I couldn't get the cyl-head off without this clearance.

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« Last Edit: 01/15/21 at 17:16:49 by niceast »

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Re: Removing the Cylinder Head with Engine in Fram
Reply #29 - 01/05/21 at 18:44:50

Armen wrote on 01/05/21 at 16:28:04:

Excellent info Mike!
BTW, I usually install a top end by putting the piston in the cylinder and lowering it onto the con rod, then inserting the wrist pin and pin clip.
Is there enough room to do this?
I find wrestling in one pin and one pin clip to be easier than three rings.
I'm super lazy.
I'll be making up a copy of your stud extractor as soon as I order a LH bolt.
thanks!
-Armen

Yes, I did this in reverse when I didn't want to split the piston from the cylinder... didn't want to rehone.

Nice job on the bolt extractor, I was thinking some like a coupling nut split on one side with a screw thru the side to clamp it on the bolt.

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