Are you saying you don't have but one clip on your wrist pin?

Yeah, I was shocked when the pin didn't come with the piston.
What bothered me more was the Raptor first oversize piston just  didn't agree with the rings. The end gap was over spec, and I went back Three times,while they ordered, I waited. After three times, the owner noticed I was being there a lot, asked, I explained.
He told the parts guy
Take the piston,
Find a piston and rings that spec out, and give it to him, for no added charge.
Every customer who THEY sold those pistols and rings to, have excessive ring gaps.

It is aMazing what establishment thinks they need to sell us these days.

Well guys thanks for your input thus far. I am still waiting on my honing tool and the piston which should arrive tomorrow. In the meantime I am laying out the nuts and bolts in order to reassemble the cylinder and the head. I am pretty sure that I have it sorted with the exception of the 4 nuts that hold the head down. The previous owner did a pretty good job of bagging up the parts but I cannot find a set of matching 9mm nuts and washers. Unfortunately my manual does not show a clear picture of the nuts and as I didn't take it apart I am not sure what they look like. Also the manual says to use a copper washer on the stud nearest the exhaust port but there is no reference to washers on the other studs. So here is the question, are the nuts on the studs domed like in this image and is there an odd one as shown here.

Many thanks
DavidP

Hello Everyone,
First off, thank you for all your advice it has been very helpful. I have now rebuilt the engine and it is back in the frame. For the most part the person who dismantled it did a great job in laying out the screw and nuts and bolts etc. and in many cases put them back in the correct locations. That said there are a couple of things that confuse me. The first is I have what I would describe as long strip of coarse steel wool that has been folded over and over until it can't be folded again. Does it go in that void on the left side of the head near the decompressor? Also the left side chrome trim on the top of the head there is a long screw at the front. This just seems to fall into the fins of the head. Is it fixed by a nut and a lock washer or has something broken from the fin? It is probably not a big deal as I can just purchase the correct nut if necessary. Finally the rubber hose that starts from the top of the cylinder head. I assume that feeds oily fumes to the air box, but I cannot find the appropriate fitting for it. Are those gases reburnt or just vented to atmosphere.
Many thanks
DavidP

Without a tool to measure the ID you won't know if the cylinder is tapered or out of round. If it's a fairly low mileage engine, then yeah, hone with oil, get the crosshatch, put rings on and measure the end gap. There's a too tight and a too loose. Stagger ring gaps according to the manual.

You really need to bite the bullet and just pull the head cover back off, and put the screen where it belongs.  It has to be there or you will have t too much air and oil coming out your breather tube.  It acts as a bit of a damper to even out the "huffing" in/out of the vent tube, and it filters out the large oil droplets.

You can pull the head cover and put it back on with the engine in the frame.....it is no big deal.

I kind hate the screw up front to hold the chrome cap.....if you put it in you are committed to always using the chrome trim - or stacking washers so you can put a nut on top (it does hold the left front corner of the head cover tight and should be used).  It also makes one more thing to juggle when you put the cover on and try not to smear the sealer.

I cut a piece of threaded rod to the correct length, then I just sneak a nut between the lower fins with threadlocker on it.  If I ever decide I don't want the chrome cover - I can just remove the long rod and shorten it a bit.

Let me know if you want one...and I can mail it to you.

Dave