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Cam chain - Replacement (Read 455 times)
Mekh
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Cam chain - Replacement
05/08/15 at 01:06:55
 
Hi,

I have been looking through the Technical References and Googled for a guide on how to replace the cam chain, but with no luck so far.
I've seen some hints here and there spread out among the hundreds of threads I've read/scanned over the past month or so, but nothing that made the extent of the work clear to me.

I don't think I want to replace the chain right now, as a Verslavy should be able to help me out, but... I like to be "prepared" and read up on stuff up front.

Basically what I'm looking for is something like:
  • What do I need to disassemble in order to replace the chain.
  • Some tips on how to do it the easiest/best/safest way.
  • Things to be aware of: Make note of this & that, use locktite here, but not there... so on Smiley


I have the Clymer manual, but so far at least I haven't managed to deduct from that, what  the essential steps are for replacing the cam chain.

FYI, status of my Cam Chain Tensioner:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fghtsnxji8ijxmh/20150507-IMG_2225.jpg?dl=0
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projectfj
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #1 - 05/08/15 at 03:24:59
 
Here's a good run down of what you'll need minus taking the actual tensioner off:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1191167029

If you want to save the oil, lean your motorcycle over to the left side. Good luck.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #2 - 05/08/15 at 09:35:17
 
This is when a manual comes in handy.

Before you pull a bolt, mentally go through the procedure.
Exhaust comes off. I don't know if the peg/brake pedal stay. (comes off)-v1
Get a box, draw the outline of clutch cover, poke a slot where every bolt goes and keep up with where each one came from.
Use a 1/4" ratchet or an end wrench, FEEL , dont hurry, work back and forth, across, go around till you feel good about it. Don't try to get them tight in one or even two passes. The time spent being careful is nothing compared to the time it will take if you strip case threads. The crushing force will squeeze the gasket a tiny bit, take your time. If you use sealant, be super careful of. Oil passage.
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verslagen1
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #3 - 05/08/15 at 09:47:07
 
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Mekh
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #4 - 05/09/15 at 18:25:03
 
Thanks a lot for the tips and links... haven't had time to read it thoroughly yet, but looks really helpful glancing over it.

Much appreciated... Smiley
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kamelryttarn
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #5 - 07/08/20 at 09:32:35
 
Ok.. cam chain replacement.... what is the secret? Cuz I can't figure out how to do it. After a couple of hours in the workshop today I finally got the chain on both sprockets just to realize I totally forgot about the timing.

With a new chain the chain is so short there is NO way of adjusting anything once everything is in place. so how are you supposed to get the timing correct??? Please enlighten me as I'm about to give up on the bike and everything two wheel related.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #6 - 07/08/20 at 11:36:59
 
Cam sprocket cant be attached until the chain is on the sprocket,,
THATS IF I remember right,, Its been a long time,, Pretty sure thats right , tho.
But, Im certain that if youll be patient, someone will come along and help you out,,
And,, Yeah, its a bit of a mental twist, just dont get angry or frustrated, Ive never seen anyone get in there and, with the help here, fail to win it..

Have you checked to see if you have to go back in to get it timed?

The cam sprocket has a line, or 2 dashes, that run with the side of the head,
That sprocket only fits the cam one way, so, get the cam to allow the sprocket to go on it
WHILE the lines are right with the head,,
AND
At the same time, the piston has to be at Top Dead Center..
Achieved by rotating the crankshaft in the same direction as the wheels roll..

If you are using a ratchet, its probably gonna hit TDC and keep going,,
A breaker bar is good there, or, if youre super careful, Ive managed with a ratchet,,
Or, a pair of pliers on the extension,,
Vise Grips, And its great if ya can figure a way to Keep your timing from drifting while youre busy with everything else..

Maybe thats enuff,, I hope so,, Dont give up,,
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #7 - 07/08/20 at 15:21:35
 
Kamelryttarn, you can do this.  Anyone who can build that crazy complicated compressor contraption can time their cam chain.  BTW, sweet compressor setup.

First, I assume you know how to get the head cover off, and tensioner off, etc. etc.  I believe you already have it apart.   Do I have that right?

With the head cover off, you are not in danger of running any valves into the piston.  You can rotate the engine and the valves can't actuate because there are no rocker arms.  The rocker arms are in the head cover.

The piston must be at top dead center (TDC).  It's at TDC when the timing marks on the alternator rotor are aligned.  The timing plug in the alternator cover (Left Hand Cover) must be removed to see the marks.
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TDC_markup2.png
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #8 - 07/08/20 at 15:26:40
 
Once it is positioned at TDC, you can lock the crankshaft by installing an 8mm bolt in the threaded hole on the right hand side of the case.  Do not tighten with a wrench.  Just tighten with your fingers.  That will be sufficient to keep the crank from rotating  Tighten the bolt with your fingers until you feel the bolt touch the side of the crankshaft, then turn it clockwise a little more (with your fingers, not a wrench) until the bolt is pressing hard on the crank.
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Bolt_Hole_to_Lock_Crank2.png
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #9 - 07/08/20 at 15:30:06
 
Make sure the drive sprocket on the crank is timed properly.  The punch marks on the sprocket and the crankshaft must be lined up.  This picture shows the punch marks misaligned.  This sprocket would have to be moved three-splines clockwise to line up the marks.  Sorry, I didn't have a picture with the marks lined up but I think you get the idea..
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Three_splines_retarde_for_5_degrees_2.JPG
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #10 - 07/08/20 at 15:31:51
 
Here's another shot of misaligned timing marks, the sprocket must be moved three-splines clockwise to properly align the marks.
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Three_splines_retarded_equals_5_degrees_2_001.JPG
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #11 - 07/08/20 at 15:34:21
 
The cam chain tensioner must be removed.  Don't try and do this without the tensioner removed.  Take the tensioner out so you have enough slack in the chain to adjust the timing.

This is your tensioner.  If it's installed, take it out.
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Kamelryttarns_Tensioner_1.png
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #12 - 07/08/20 at 15:39:36
 
Now, with the crank set at TDC, and the cam chain drive sprocket marks correctly aligned to the crankshaft (the marks on the crank and small sprocket), install your cam chain, cam sprocket, and camshaft.  Try to set it up with the timing marks on the end of the cam as close to horizontal as reasonably achievable.  

You can see the marks are not perfectly aligned in this picture.  They are a few degrees off the horizontal head surface.
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Retarded_5_degrees_1_2_001.JPG
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #13 - 07/08/20 at 15:45:11
 
Now, walk the chain on the cam sprocket one tooth at a time.   There should be enough slack in the chain to bunch up the chain one-tooth at a time and walk the successive links over the sprocket.  You may have to go from the forward side of the sprocket toward the rear, or the rear side of the sprocket toward the front.  It will depend on if the cam is retarded or advanced.

This shows how you bunch up the chain.  You just pull out the first link and reinsert it one tooth up.  Even though its in the engine and the camshaft is installed, there will be enough slack as long as the cam chain tensioner has been removed.  It's tight but there should be enough slack.
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Walking_the_Chain2.jpg
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Cam chain - Replacement
Reply #14 - 07/08/20 at 15:51:06
 
Once you think you have it correctly timed, reinstall the chain tensioner and check the timing.  

Remove the 8mm bolt that is holding the crank.  Turn the engine gently clockwise through at least one revolution.  Then stop at the TDC mark on the left hand side of the crankshaft.  

Check your timing marks.  Make sure the TDC mark is aligned and the marks on the cam are correctly aligned with the head cover sealing surface.  It should look like this.

Note: DO NOT FORGET TO COMPLETELY REMOVE THE 8mm BOLT THAT YOU USED TO LOCK THE CRANK.
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340b_Straight_Up_Timing_12.jpg
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