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HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step) (Read 755 times)
djpennin
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HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
04/21/07 at 12:38:17
 
Head Plug Cap / Seal Fix
djp 20020515

Instructions on how to change the head seal plug
Approx time: 2-3hrs (that's how long it took me, and i'm a newbie)


-remove seat
-unscrew 10mm bolt on left side
-unscrew 10mm bolt on right side
-pull seat off
-remove left side cover
-remove screw
-pull off cover
-disconnect negative battery lead
-remove screw
-turn gas petthingy off
-remove gas line from tank
-remove speedo cable
-unscrew from engine
-pull out speedo cable
-remove breather tube
-pull off tube from carb on right side of bike
-remove rear two 10mm bolts from rear of tank
-pull tank up and back and disconnect electrical plug
-remove left side chrome cover
-unscrew 10mm bolt from back
-unscrew 10mm bolt from front
-use needlenose pliers to hold nut through fins
-remove cable that goes to solenoid
-loosen nuts that hold cable
-pull off cable from head
-remove spark plug wire from plug
-remove right side chrome cover
-unscrew 10mm bolt from back
-unscrew 10mm bolt from front
-slide right side chrome cover back and remove tube
-remove chrome cover
-unscrew solenoid left side 10mm bolt
-slide solenoid up then replace bolt to hole solenoid up
-this gets the solenoid just far enough out of the way to reach screws below
-disconnect solenoid plug
-remove 10mm bolts from head cover
-DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT that is on the right side  
closest to where you removed the big tube
-remove the bolts in a orderly fasion from one side  
to the other to even the stress on the head cover
-dont forget the 10mm bolt that are under the valve timing cover
-dont forget the other 10mm bolt under the other cover as well
-remove the engine mount
-unscrew the three 12mm bolts
-remove cover
-pull off head cover
-clean any sealant that is on head cover
-REPLACE your HEAD SEAL !!!!!!!!!!!!!
-apply sealant to your head cover
-NOTE when putting the head cover back on be sure and place that bolt that is  
upside down into the head, and also that very center bolt. I place those
bolts on the head cover and taped them on so they wouldnt fall out as I  
put the head cover back on.
-now do everything in reverse to put it all back together
-ENJOY

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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #1 - 10/23/14 at 11:40:19
 
I am a newbie as well and just purchased a 99 with 6200 miles on it with what appears to be the dreaded plug leak.  All other "how to" forums as well as Clymers state that TDC needs to be located prior to removing the head cover yet this "How To" does not state it and also seems to include a few extra steps that I have not seen in other explanations. I am confused as to the necessity of this process.

This seems fairly technically simple as far as processes go and seems like it should be a great intro to wrenching on my bike, but I am still apprehensive and concerned about screwing it up and having a nice garage decoration.

Do I need to find TDC before removing the head cover or can I bypass the procedure and why or why not?
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #2 - 10/23/14 at 12:45:04
 
Philmh wrote on 10/23/14 at 11:40:19:
Do I need to find TDC before removing the head cover or can I bypass the procedure and why or why not?

No, but you'll need to set it to TDC before re-installing the cover.
And leaving it till later will aid in popping the cover off, leave the center bolt till last when doing this.
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Re: R&R Head Plug only
Reply #3 - 07/09/16 at 11:30:47
 
Oldfeller wrote on 10/30/09 at 08:23:09:
Print out the bolt map, then tape it to a junk box top and cut some "X" patterns in the bolt holes so you can poke each bolt through its picture to save it and its washer in a nice logical fashion.  

Note the L65 and L70 have colored circles around them.  This is to remind you that you have to have them sitting in place when you put the head cover back on or you are soooooo screwed that you have to take it off and do all it over again.  Keep your washers with the screws and do not mix up any washer types/sizes.

=============

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/HeadPattern01web1.jpg

This image is a direct link to a full size printable that was originally posted by Savage Greg.  

While you are busy getting ready, print out this item that was originally provided by Digger -- they are retorque order maps of the head cover that might be useful to you.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/combo_torque_map.jpg

================

Now that you have your 2 pieces of paper in hand, let's go to work!
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Re: R&R Head Plug only
Reply #4 - 07/09/16 at 11:45:20
 
Oldfeller wrote on 11/02/09 at 13:03:46:

It's a new day off, time to hit the garage for a few hours of fun !!

Let's see, we had it open and it was time to clean it up, pull the plug and retorque the head.  Then we will pull the cam for change out.



So, pop the plug out (mine came out quite easily with NO sealer on it whatsoever -- even Clymers says put sealer on it now-a-days.  Suzuki still hasn't gotten the word yet.



Please, take some care not to damage your aluminum gasket surface !!



Now let's talk about re-torquing the head for a bit.   There is a long term disagreement about the best way to do it, so read up a bit using search and make up your own mind as to which method is best.

Me, I unscrewed each fastener in turn, lubed the nut and the flat with neverseize and re-installed the nut and brought it back up to torque.  Each pull up to 21-24 foot pounds was butter soft and easy, with no grabbing and jerking of the fastener whatsoever.  

Theory is that the remaining 3 studs hold everything down tight and good while you service the one (1) nut that you just undid.  I do not hold with taking them all four loose at the same time -- you will break seal on the head gasket, base gasket, etc. etc. if you take them all loose at the same time.

Yes, there is some stress taking one (1) loose, but less stress than taking all 4 loose by far.  YOU MUST LUBE OR OIL THE THREADS OR YOU DO NOT GET AN ACCURATE TORQUE READING AT ALL -- all you get is twisting of the stud and jerky erratic movements from the fastener rubbing on the copper washers.

Now you have everything pulled up evenly to the 24 max foot pounds, give it a half hour and go back round again.  Hey, 20 was start of movement and it ramped back up to 24 within a quarter turn on each of the 4 studs.  Well, stop and re torque the two upside down nuts under the head and the 2 at the base gasket for the jug, give it another half hour and check them again.

Same story, 20 to start and it ramps right back up to 24 within an eighth to a quarter of a turn.  All you are doing after the first two re-torques is stretching the stud some more, so give it one more pull up and quit.  

Time to clean the hole up with some brake cleaner for the new plug.  Juice it up with some black gasket maker and push that new plug home with your thumb !!



Note the displaced gasket maker evenly distributed around the plug.

Optionally, Verslagen1 offers an Aluminum head plug with high temp o-rings.

Just lube the O-rings with a little oil and slip them in.  No sealer required.

Now, let's talk about gasket maker stuff in general.  First, the stuff is constantly evolving and improving, so old arguments you read about brand X vs brand y likely don't even apply any more.  My castings are painted black, so I bought 500 degree rated high temperature black Permatex gasket maker -- this stuff does not require air dry time so you can bolt it right up after applying it.  

(Hey, I told you the stuff is constantly getting better and better since the last time you bought some.)

You want your stuff to be able to be bolted up wet, as that is what you MUST do on the cover -- you do not want to have to let it dry for 15 minutes and make a stiff build up as that would jack your cam bearing clearance out through the roof and that is NOT a good thing.  You want to be able to bolt it up wet and squish it out to almost nothing thickness and that is what the current version of Permatex Ultra Black Hi-Temp will allow you to do.

Next, Advanced Auto sells a half ounce tiny tube of the stuff for $2.29 -- unless you have enough planned to use a big tube up just buy a little tube.  Big tubes, all I have ever seen is stiffened up big tubes that I toss away after a few years.  Buy a little tube -- it is enough and the big tubes cost $8.95 more (and it will all be wasted anyway).

Dave wrote on 11/03/14 at 10:28:02:
And when doing the case halves and cylinder head cover.....use the Suzuk/Yama or HondaBond products.  There is also an aftermarket product called Threebond.....that I imagine is the same product without the brand name.

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3177

The generic RTV products seem to set up pretty fast for something as technical as installing the head cover.  The Suzuki bond seemed to be a bit more "user friendly" and did not start to set up quickly.  It also doesn't harden in the tube as JOG has mentioned.  One tube goes a very long way and lasts a long time.



Periodically, put your thumb back on top of that new style rubber plug and check that it hasn't jacked itself up out of the hole.  This has been reported by other list members as happening to them, so until your sealer sets up good keep a check that it doesn't happen to you.
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« Last Edit: 07/10/16 at 08:50:35 by verslagen1 »  

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Re: R&R Head Plug only
Reply #5 - 07/09/16 at 12:00:23
 
Oldfeller wrote on 11/03/09 at 14:48:15:

Today was a full day, but not a whole lot seems to have been accomplished.  



You set everything out and easy to hand, INCLUDING THE TWO SCREWS (L65 and L70) THAT HAVE TO BE IN PLACE WHEN THE HEAD COVER GOES BACK ON.  

Then you clean your hands take a deep breath.  15 minute clock starts now., or

And then you goop the cover (including the large end seal recess since we are reusing the old end seal) set the curvy "O" ring in place in the recess with a little gasket maker on the edges -- then you goop the head surfaces, goop the end seal recess, pick up the end seal and lightly goop the outer surface and then put it in place in the head recess.

Stop and clean your hands again, quickly.  Then put the two fasteners (L65 and L70) in place in the head and then tilt the head up and install it from the left side of the motor while not letting your gooped surfaces touch anything.  Remember that the L65 bolt head goes down a level inside the cylinder fins (it has a mounting slot that you see on top)  and watch out for the little formed "O" ring around the hollow locator dowel getting out of its recess.  Settle the head cover down over the guts and begin dropping in the bolts.



Turn all the bolts to touch when you put them in then do the first pull up at 60 inch pounds following the order of the pull up chart listed below (you have a printed copy of it, right?).

FROM THIS POINT ON BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO MOVE THE CLUTCH BASKET, THE ALTERNATOR NUT OR THE CAM OR THE ENGINE IN ANY FASHION.  YOU DO NOT WANT TO SMEAR SOFT SEALER ACROSS THE BEARING JOURNALS



Then go for 80 inch pounds on the next round, then up it to 100 inch pounds for the third round.  Give it 15 minutes and go around again and you will find some of the longer fasteners pull up more and the one in the middle pulls up quite a bit more (you got oozing going on).

Give it another 15 minutes and go around again -- not much should move this time.  Give it 30 minutes and go around again -- nothing should move except maybe the center and 1-2 of the longer fasteners.

Go again in an hour and nothing should move -- you are done for tonight.  

The cover needs 24 hours to fully cure before rotating the cam as YOU DO NOT WANT TO SMEAR SOFT SEALER ACROSS THE BEARING JOURNALS -- you want it to set up totally solid so it breaks free leaving just a little lump of gelled gasket maker in the journal to cam clearance which then slowly gets worn away as the cam oscillates around in the clearance in the oil film while running.  

Your assembly lube will make sure the goo lump won't stick to the cam steel after it sets up good, but you have to take care not to move anything while the gasket maker is wet and gooey or you could smear it across the shaft and the journals and get some goo contaminated aluminum journals which would then pick up wear trash and could then lead to journal galling and failure.



Put a cover over it and put it to bed for the night.  You can break it free in the morning.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #6 - 04/23/18 at 21:02:02
 
what is the bolt just about the #3 bolt. I was a dummy a took that one out to.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #7 - 04/23/18 at 21:55:12
 
Jody72 wrote on 04/23/18 at 21:02:02:
what is the bolt just about the #3 bolt. I was a dummy a took that one out to.

that retains the rocker arm shaft... put it back in.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #8 - 10/26/18 at 20:56:53
 
Do any of you guys happen to have the torque specs and bolt order for the head cover?  The pictures don't seem to work anymore.  Thanks in advance!
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #9 - 10/26/18 at 22:26:23
 
HighME32 wrote on 10/26/18 at 20:56:53:
Do any of you guys happen to have the torque specs and bolt order for the head cover?  The pictures don't seem to work anymore.  Thanks in advance!

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1098848534

Cylinder
head cover bolts      5.9      8.8        ftlbs
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« Last Edit: 10/27/18 at 22:29:39 by verslagen1 »  

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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #10 - 10/27/18 at 06:55:05
 
Be aware that many of these bolts have been snapped off in the motor  ( a major problem) , by trying to torque them, it is far better to snug them up gently by hand ,if they weep they can be tightened up an 1/8 or1/4 turn later when the bike is running avoiding this damage.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #11 - 10/27/18 at 16:23:00
 
Thanks Verslagen, the link you sent actually says 8-12 mm and 6-8 ft lbs.

Thanks Batman, I think I will hand tighten then torque to middle of the range. I am leaning towards torquing because it is a head cover. 1st pass at 6 then 8ft lbs after the gasket dries should do the trick I hope. What do you think?
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« Last Edit: 10/28/18 at 12:46:43 by HighME32 »  
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #12 - 10/27/18 at 22:30:07
 
thanks, fixed
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #13 - 10/28/18 at 18:49:14
 
I'm a bit confused as which bolts not to touch. Some say leave the L65 and L70 bolt in. Some say don't touch the bolts connected to the rocker arms. Can someone please clarify this for me?
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #14 - 10/28/18 at 19:46:04
 
HighME32 wrote on 10/28/18 at 18:49:14:
I'm a bit confused as which bolts not to touch. Some say leave the L65 and L70 bolt in. Some say don't touch the bolts connected to the rocker arms. Can someone please clarify this for me?

You leave the L65 and L70 bolt in cause you can't get them out, but you do loosen it completely or remove the nut.  They'll come out after you remove the cover.  And remember to put them back in or you'll need to take the cover back off to get them in.

You leave the rocker bolt (the one with a cross recessed mark in it) in cause you don't have to remove it to take the cover off.  But you can, it can be hard to put it back in though.
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