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PART 2 : making the repairs ||
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So you now have your engine apart, great!
At this point there is a large number of
preventiveand
corrective repairs one can do to take advantage
of the circumstances, these include: new clutch, giving new life
to the timing chain tensor, fixing leaks, cleaning your oil pump
mesh, replacing rings, valves, valve seals, cam chain, camshaft,
rockers, bore the exhaust port, etc. And most of these repairs consist
basically on removing the damaged part and replacing it with a new
one, how easy is that?! Just put everything back together
EXACTLY.
In this walkthrough we'll mainly focus on 3 repairs:
valve job, installing new rings and plug leak.
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8) Valves You have 2 options: replace or repair.
In case your valves are damaged, molten or misshapen
(oval or bent) the you just have 1 option, replace part;
and in case your valves are not damaged, then you can
clean and rebuild the valve seat. In my case I cleaned,
redid the valve seat, replaced the valve seal and lubed.
- Step 1: disassemble
there are a number of ways to do this, most people use
a large "C" clamp and a socket (or 2 long/thin ones),
others use "big mouth" vice grips, others use a speciality
valve-removal tool which is what i did, the trick is to compress
the valve spring long enough so you can take the *cotters that
hold the spring retainer in place, same goes for assembly.
(*be careful, those suckers can FLY!)
There are 2 pairs if valves, intake and exhaust, they are
different and they are marked but DO NOT MIX SIDES,
put all back where it came from.
Once you get all 4 valves free you will clean them with a
rotating metal wire wheel, it's the only way unless you have
a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner or acid bath, claean them well
until you remove all carbon and metal/mineral deposits stuck there,
SPECIALLY the exhaust valves, the metal the valves are made of is
ridiculously hard and it's hard to damage, just don't press your luck.
DO NOT touch the valve seat, you need that to stay sharp.
Do not remove carbon deposits on chamber dome, it need to be there,
remove only large mineral deposits (grain-like crap).
- Step 2: rebuild valve seat
Once clean you can now start redoing your valve seats. There is
special shop equipment and shops that will grind your valves at
exactly 45°, I don't have that so I did it manually. You will need
some hardish rubber gas line, a drill, some mineral grinding-stone
paste, some gas and a couple of small metal hose clamps (the kind
you make tight w/screwdriver). IF you don't have this grinding stone
paste, I guess you could make your own with a grinding stone, a
hammer and some mechanic's grease; mash it up good, make 2 kinds:
sandy and fine, then mix w/grease, instant grinding paste!
Start w/both exhaust valves then test, there is a very goos chance
your intake valves are fine. Get valve in to place and attach rubber
hose at end and tighten somehow, the attach other end to drill
somehow and tighten, place some paste (sandy) in mouth and
valve edge, pull hose and spin drill one way, then the other way,
re-apply paste, repeat , then hit valve from under side w/hammer to
seat valve, repeat.
Brush area w/gasoline that will act as lube for the grinding stone. Do
this a few more times w/drill then stop using drill completely and you
will continue by hand asi if trying to make fire with a stick. Then start
again w/fine paste, do everything again, do not abuse drill, hammer a lot.
The SOUND will tell you when you are done, after completely cleaning
the area w/gas, let dry and spin valve by hand while pulling, it should
sound like both metal sides are having a rough tine w/each other, the
valve should get stuck and refuse to spin.
- Step 3: rebuild, replace valve seal & test for leaks
When you think you are done, reassemble all 4 valves the way you
found them, remember to replace rubber valve gasket seal things
w/new ones ($2 ea.), place old spark plug in hole (tightish) and place
whole thing upside down and fill w/gas, watch for leaks in both ports, if
it does not leak within a minute, you are done. Lube all w/heaviest oil
possible, I used 90w transmission oil.
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9) New ringsHit w/rubber mallet/pull up mid-top end cylinder section to expose
piston, place cotton rags or plastic in engine hole to keep dirt out.
Check cylinder walls for damage (scratches) or glazing (blueish,
overheated, glass-like finish). Check piston for damage, you can only
replace rings IF both piston and cylinder walls permit, specially piston.
If piston has no damage and old rings come out easily then you are in
luck(see clymer manual for removal instructions, rings are very fragil!)
remove piston from engine by removing ONE of the o-ring tensioner
thingies that hold the inside rod in place, then slide rod through there
and piston is now free.
Clean but DO NOT remove carbon deposits on piston top, you need it,
remove only excess crap (see manual).
Take cylinder head and piston an place in table, insert new #1 ring
in cylinder alone and push down EVENLY w/the help of your piston,
once inside you must measure your wear limits (in clymer manual).
Now test ring #2 (they are marked), if all is within limits (think heat
expansion) then you can install new rings, learn how to correctly install
bottom "oil guard" rings and top rings, see manual. Position all 4 rings
at 3 o"clock, 9 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock respectively to
minimize oil/exhaust gas/chamber/crank case contamination.
Lube well cylinder walls with thick oil (I used 90w oil), connect piston
w/engine (lube), piston has an arrow on top, this arrow must point at
front of engine, put new engine head gasket in place,carefully
assemble cylinder head and manually press rings one by one as piston
goes back into cylinder.
Place next head gasket into place, connect top of chamber and tighten
head with the 4 large nuts torqueing in "X" pattern, don't forget
the 2 extra side screws (upside down, at front and rear of head)
And don't forget to place front timing chain slider guide into place
before closing head.
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10) World famous savage plug leakThere are about a million threads on this, follow either one,
basically GET A NEW PLUG and after assembling head, clean
area: no grease, no old silicone, no nothing (use gas and wire
brush wheel if you wish) use silicon to install new plug (see
before/after picture I took) and let area dry as log as you can,
maybe 48hrs if possible. Also use extra silicone patch under plug
w/finger, work in ventilated space, that thing is nasty.
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PART 3 : putting bike back together ||
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12) Reverse whole process, use logic, use the manual,
any questions let me know.
I did not hone the cylinder, I decided to use heavy oil on cylinder walls
and other parts before assembly and I used this method (see under) to
break-in rings and hone walls at the same time, it worked.
The theory is to run and overheat the engine for a while under a
controlled environment, so the rings expand and scratch the cylinder
walls a bit and the rings break-in against it, then change the oil, repeat.
All this to insure future compression and prevent glazing.
This is the break-in method I used:
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/engnbrkn.htm Random tips:
Use good hi-temp silicone.
Recharge battery at low amps (2A) for 8 hrs, control acid levels.
Use torque meter or logic/feel, better a bit lose than a broken bolt.
Lube EVERYTHING, even bolts and nuts before assembly.
Use "X" pattern to tighten all.
Most bolts and nuts still go 1/3 more turn after they get hard
Replace all head gaskets w/new ones.
Side covers may be "siliconed" carefully (watch the oil veins).
Better too little silicone than too much close to inside areas.
Good time to check/adjust decompression valve thing.
Good time to grease all control-cables, use 2 syringes, one w/oil
and one w/gasoline, a few squirts of gas after the oil help the oil
slide until end of cable.
A good time to check/grease your gear lever mechanism.
Timing must match w/timing chain marks & TDC piston.
Be clean, be organized, be patient, have fun.
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You're done!**Anyone may correct, advice, detail and/or
complement all or any part of this walkthrough.
Good luck too all.
C'ya
Richard P.
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