I've read this post re: suspension - http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1498156004/0

I have the linear racetech springs and 15W fork oil and plan to replace them, but I can't find the process documented anywhere. This is a first for me, so I want to make sure I'm doing it right.

Can anyone point me to a video or instructions?

My plan is to see how it performs and decide later to add cartridge emulators and/or lower the front for cafe build. I already love the change from going to tracker handlebars.

Thanks for any help.

Thanks. Just downloaded the shop manual...I was hoping I could drain it with it still on the tree, but that doesn't seem like an option  

You can drain out the bottom- you have to remove the front axle and take out the bolts that hold the stork ice tubes in place. Yo will need to make the holder to keep the tubes from rotating whil you loosen the bolts.

I have no idea where all those typos came from......I tried to post using my cell phone, and evidently that didn't go very well.

You take out the large hex tops of the fork tubes - after you jack the bike up to prevent it from falling down when you release the spring tension.  Be careful as there is some pre-load and the caps are going to want to jump out of the hole.  Then remove the washers and springs.

Remove the axle, and there is an allen head screw in the bottom of the forks.  Those screws hold in the damping rods that are steel tubes that have orifices drilled in them to control the oil flow - when the screws are removed the oil will drain out.

You need to make a tool to hold the top of the damping rod while you are loosening the allen head screws.  The tool can be made from a hex bolt head with a shaft welded on so you can extend it down into the fork to reach the tube.

I am not at home to measure the hex size that is needed....I can do that when I return - somewhere on this forum this has been discussed before.  Have you looked in the Tech Section?

I picked up a steel braid brake line. Sounds like a good time to do that too. I've bled brakes on a mountain bike before. I assume it's similar process. I had a syringe to suction the line, and create a vacuum to get air bubbles out. How would I do that on the S40 though?

Remove the forks, one at a time. Dump and pump. It really is that simple. Refill each fork with oil, maintaining the desired air gap. The OEM air gap is 75mm. With those springs you can increase the gap to 100-120mm. Suzuki used such a small air gap to try to reduce fork dive. The straight rate springs will have a lot less dive under braking.

@gary that is now my plan. Thanks for your original post. It's what gave me the direction to fix suspension as my second project. I assume the air gap is measured after the spring is in and before the space, correct?

@justin Idk of this is a joke, but my mind is running through the feasibility.  

gtenginerd wrote on 09/13/20 at 15:52:06:


Take the measurement with the fork tube in a compressed position, with the spring out. After you are happy with the oil height you add the spring and spacers.