projectfj wrote on 04/01/15 at 05:11:47:


Or Graingers, or Fastenal....or a really good hardware store.

I went ahead and got some off
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/permatex-bearing-mount-adhesive-for-worn-parts...
I called in an order and they said they only had 3 left in stock. They did USPS flat rate shipping so my total came out to a little over $12. The ebay one seemed sketchy since there was an "extended handling time greater than 9 business days." The race-mart one had a minimum order of 6 I believe and shipping was higher. Just letting y'all know in case you need some since I guess they discontinued the stuff.

I've seen some Permatex bearing mount for closed/relaxed fits. Maybe that's what superseded it. I might have should got some JB Weld, but I wanted to be able to take the pulley off in the future without too much force. I know I'll need to heat the bearing mount up to get it to free up, and heard getting JB Weld to free up was almost as bad as an actual weld. Hopefully the Permatex will work for what I need it for. It better since I had to go out of my way and spend half a day trying to find the stuff, when the JB Weld was sitting on every shelf of every parts store in town. Got the rear tire back and on today. All that's left is the drive pulley and belt. I'll take some pictures of the finished product when I get it all the way back together unless something else proves to be problematic.

I made a pretty good loop around town the other day. Still smoking, but not too bad. Oil level was fine when I got back.

I did have a neighbor come over and tell me my brake light wasn't working. He was right, neither front nor rear brake depressed made the brake light shine. The running light worked, and I noticed y'all recommended checking the bulb as it a dual filament. Changed it out with a new one with the same results. The front brake lever clicks when depressed. Where is the switch for it? I know the rear brake switch is behind the muffler on the swingarm, I'll attempt to adjust it soon. Somebody said it was easy to get to with the muffler off so I'll remove it and see if I can't find a leak while it's off.

Also, it backfires pretty loud coming off high RPMs. I have a pancake K&N filter, and I think the PO may have drilled the exhaust. May need rejetting, I'll see what LANCER recommends one of these days. I've made a few necks pop around after a good "belch of power" as verslagen1 calls it.

The last thing (for now I guess) is the leaking fork seals. I've already bought them, but was wondering if I should go ahead and replace them or wait til this winter and ride all summer.

And I tried to get scenic with this lock and dam in the middle of about a fifty mile joyride:

Does this video sound like the cam chain death rattle?

https://youtu.be/CeGqmqywNUA

I didn't feel any tapping on the oil filter or clutch cover all the way around. I was worried because it has 33,7XX miles on it, and the one thing I meant to do and forgot to do was measure the cam chain while I had the motor in pieces. So the first thing that came to mind was stupid me, and how I get to tear it all the way back down after putting it all the way back together. Plus dealing with that bearing mount and the drive pulley nut would be the icing on the cake.

It sounds like it's coming more from the top of the cylinder, and somebody suggested it might be valve tap. Are the valves being out of wack what causes that or could it be a worn camshaft or am I wrong on both accounts?

projectfj wrote on 04/24/15 at 15:34:48:

well... your kickstand safety works  

sounds like you light isn't dead, it's just off.
I'm not sure if a burnt out light will cause the safety not to work.
but would be the 1st thing to check.
then make the wire is still connected.
then check to see if the neutral switch works.
it's possible the diode is burnt out too.