This form of adjustment could be cut out of a bar of decent aluminum rectangular stock with a router table and a carbide dual flute router bit.  

Then it could be sliced into the proper thickness with a miter saw.  Then the slices could be drilled on a simple jig clamped to a drill press.

Can we assume the standard Suzuki aluminum outer piece is consistent enough in its dimensions, enough so to make up a cheap fix kit that a member could just buy outright for $35 bucks?

Oldfeller

vtail wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:


Heel gemakkelijk, had je gedacht!

Dam, gotta change my concept.  

Good going Vtail.  You might concider making it a sandwich, Al. block on top side and Thin steel plate on the bottom.  This way, if you want to use the stock config, all you need is a washer.  And a jam nut on top, you'll never worry about this coming apart.  

I think what you are referring to is a 'z' bend.  There should be plenty of clearance on the backside of the adjuster for the added material.  

My brain won't quit. Help! Here's another one.
Take a strip of mild steel, heat small area with torch and bend in nice tight 180 degree U shape. Cut to size,drill holes so it'll fit over the housing mount. Weld on extension to bottom of the U so it becomes Y. Drill hole in desired spot and mount. Material $0.10 + welding

I was thinking that a single "Z" bar would work to mount the cylinder of the tensioner on. Just bend it so it goes behind the mounting hole in the cylinder and throw a bolt in. Then mount the other end at the regular spot in the engine using the "c" clip. The only hard part would be getting two 90 degree bends that close together. Still wouldn't be too hard with a torch, hammer and drill press. Could even make one out of a block of aluminum.

vtail wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:

THink that will work, also the next design, with the steel strips bent into a "Z" shape. Wonder why Norbert from the German forum has not thought about that and designed such a complicated mod. as I have installed now.