Also the U can be made out of 3mm(1/8") steel (easy to bend/shape) and the tab to be welded on should be the same thickness as the plungerhousing attach point

Yep and use a torch to aid in bending. (also reliefs stress)

vtail wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:

Goeien avond!
I did check the pictures and it seems to me that will doe the job of extending the life of the camchain.
I''m close to 3000 km since installation of Norberts system. Maybe I will open up the clutch cover to have a look-see.

If you are using a significant thickness of steel, just make a simple single thickness "S"  form and bolt it firmly to the top of the tensioner with the flat end of the steel hitting the flat shoulder of the tensioner housing.   Put a spacer under the flat pin/circlip mounting part such that the spacer and the steel thickness reference the circlip groove correctly.

Keep it simple, the only task it needs to do is reference the pin/circlip pivot point reliably and be retained by the circlip reliably.

Also, you could flip the "S" form and have it bolt up from the bottom side and then put your spacer on top to fill in the distance to the circlip if you preferred that orientation.  I think the bottom side up looks stronger/better personally.  Your spacer washer on top acts as a rotational force "buffer" for the circlip making sure no "pop it off" forces get transmitted to the circlip (not that it is going to be rotating very much anyway).

Illustration provided already, just mentally take half of the assembly shown here at full natural steel thickness -- it's plenty strong enough to do the job.




Oldfeller

verslagen1 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:


Contrarary to the installation instructions I used green loctite. When I have it open I will drill the head of the bolt and lockwire the bolt  the aviation way.
Wait for pictures!

Maybe Tcat, the guy who is fabricating such beautifull forkbraces, can make them?  Provided someone will supply him with a proper dimensional drawing.
Just a thought!

I haven't had time to work out the dimensions yet.  But when I do, I'll either offer a kit for the extension or as I do now Modify the assembly for the extension and slot.

The main issue I have with the adjuster is that it falls apart.  To fix that I've incorporated a pin and slot.  To drill the hole in the plunger takes a carbide tool that requires sharpening often.  It's a real SOB.

Norbert has a great mod.  And it will allow the maximum time inbetween inspections.  you can adjust the projection at every inspection.

But there is only so much adjustment available.  The plunger max safe projection is 18mm.  It seems that most start out at 9mm.  When I did my original mod, I stuck out 5mm with the tensioner in the second hole.  In this second hole position, when the plunger stops, the down chain will be very near the up chain.  Upon this I will base the configuration of the slot and second hole patterns.  These I've already determined.

The one thing that has to be determined is use of the 1st hole.  I like the idea of not mod'ing the housing in this area for ease of using the stock hole.  But making a z bend as sharp as it needs to be concerns me.  

The housing needs to be modified one way or another.  If I'm putting in the slot anyway, it's easier for me to shave the top and bottom for the tuning fork idea.  Except I'll use .06" steel plates top and bottom with a steel spacer for the second hole.