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Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover (Read 539 times)
DragBikeMike
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #15 - 10/26/19 at 12:10:51
 
The new Raptor petcock will have a filter/screen incorporated.  Make sure you remove the clear plastic protective cover tube before you install the Raptor petcock.

Your photos seem to indicate that the leak is coming from the infamous head plug.  The Verslagen plug should fix that.

Your spark plug didn't have a washer/gasket???   The new plug will come with a washer/gasket.

Your description of the 82 mph limit followed by a period of time where it barely runs is a classic description of a fuel delivery problem.  When you take it up to 82 mph the throttle is open almost all the way.  Under that condition, there is no manifold vacuum.  Manifold vacuum holds the stock petcock open.  No vacuum, no open, no fuel.  The float bowl runs dry, the engine slows down.  You then put around at slow speed for awhile and the manifold vacuum is high enough to open the petcock and the float bowl fills up and things go back to normal.  The Raptor petcock should solve that problem.

Dave, I'm confused about your comment regarding the "right rear stud".  The nut for that stud is within the confines of the rocker box.  You can't see it when the head cover is in place.  
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #16 - 10/26/19 at 15:21:14
 
DragBikeMike wrote on 10/26/19 at 12:10:51:
Dave, I'm confused about your comment regarding the "right rear stud".  The nut for that stud is within the confines of the rocker box.  You can't see it when the head cover is in place.  


If you get to the back of the cylinder, and you look into the rear of the head right beside the carb spigot.....and you look hard and long enough, you can see the shiny silver cylinder stud is exposed and visible in the air channel that begins under the head plug and goes to the back of the cylinder.  If the copper washer and nut are not sealed well, oil can weep down the stud and the hot air coming through the head picks up the oil and blows it everywhere.

Seems a bit weird that the head is cast to allow this stud to become exposed when it has oil on top in the cam housing, and oil underneath in the cylinder where the oil supply for the cam housing travels along this stud.

If you are one who likes to re-use these copper washers when you put the engine back together - be sure to put some sealant on the left front and right rear studs to eliminate the potential leaksl!
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #17 - 10/26/19 at 18:20:57
 
those washers are generally reusable ,but you should anneal them before reuse , it softens the copper , and makes RTV an option. when pressed for a replacement ( if the copper is bent or kinked it forms a hard spot and may not seal) you can drill a penny and use it, but the penny must be dated before 1984 , when a penny was 97% copper and 3% zinc . After that date a penny was made mostly of zinc with a copper coating and won't work.
     That plug needs cleaning /and gapping , but can be reused.
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #18 - 10/27/19 at 11:14:48
 
Dave, how did I miss that?  Great observation.  I'm gonna pay a bit more attention to that right-rear stud.
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #19 - 10/27/19 at 13:28:49
 
Remember- unlike ferris metals, quench copper to maximize annealing.
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #20 - 10/27/19 at 14:13:29
 
The washers do not need to be quenched, just allow them to air cool, quenching  merely stops the process , it is used more for example : on brass shell casings where you want the neck of the shell to be annealed to except the bullet without splitting but the base of the shell to not deform.
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #21 - 10/27/19 at 16:55:32
 
DragBikeMike wrote on 10/27/19 at 11:14:48:
Dave, how did I miss that?  Great observation.  I'm gonna pay a bit more attention to that right-rear stud.


The first fellow to suffer from a leak in this area was Ralfyguy - it took a while for us to figure out the source of his leak, as he had replaced the famous plug and still had oil weeping and making the back of his head oily.


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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #22 - 10/27/19 at 17:02:13
 
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #23 - 10/29/19 at 13:29:09
 
Dave wrote on 10/26/19 at 09:32:34:
Lube the cam lobes, and when the head cover is back on - squirt oil through the exhaust valve access hole to fill the trough under the cam.


1) What should the cam lobes be lube with?  -just engine oil?

2) Maybe I’m looking right at it, but what/where is the exhaust valve access hole?   Is the referenced trough the cavity located directly under the infamous bolt plug?  Are you talking about squirting oil into the cavity next to the exhaust header?


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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #24 - 10/29/19 at 13:34:31
 
Mavigogun wrote on 10/29/19 at 13:29:09:
Dave wrote on 10/26/19 at 09:32:34:
Lube the cam lobes, and when the head cover is back on - squirt oil through the exhaust valve access hole to fill the trough under the cam.


1) What should the cam lobes be lube with?  -just engine oil?

2) Maybe I’m looking right at it, but what/where is the exhaust valve access hole?   Is the referenced trough the cavity located directly under the infamous bolt plug?  Are you talking about squirting oil into the cavity next to the exhaust header?



Yes, engine oil

aka valve inspection port, you know that cover you remove to adjust the valves.
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #25 - 10/30/19 at 02:53:24
 
The referenced trough is directly below the cam lobes.  Under normal operation, the trough fills with oil and the lobes dip into the oil as the cam rotates.  It is NOT the cavity directly underneath the "infamous bolt plug".  This is a picture of the trough.
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #26 - 10/30/19 at 03:01:42
 
See the oil in the trough?  Can you picture how the cam lobes will dip into the oil as the cam rotates?  You want the trough FULL of oil before you start the engine.

I know that others have advised you to fill the trough by removing the exhaust valve cover (the oval cover you remove to adjust valves).  But I have found it much easier to see & fill the trough through the intake valve side.  So I recommend you remove the intake valve cover and fill the trough.  The fuel tank must be removed but its worth the hassle to have good access for visual observation while filling.  It's easy.  Don't skip this step.  Fill the trough with oil before you start the engine.
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #27 - 11/02/19 at 20:07:18
 
So, head cap back on, Raptor installed, it's a new bike.   Used to choke out above 82 indicated, now I can peg out the speedometer with some throttle left.

Should just be happy, but-

It's still leaking oil.  It seems like it might be aspirating out the cavity on the engine head just to the right of the carb. (What’s it for, anyway? What’s it called?).   So, after getting the head cover in place, I filled the cam trough with oil using a tube fed in via the valve port.  This probably introduced too much oil.  The oil level was on the high side- might this account for the oil aspirated from the as-yet-unnamed orifice?
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #28 - 11/02/19 at 21:41:51
 
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Re: Post- Harvey: Under the Head Cover
Reply #29 - 11/03/19 at 07:08:35
 
You can't over fill the trough, it would simply spill over to the valve spring area and drain back to the engine case ,it's normal return path.
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