Can you post a photo of the leaky area?

Here's a view of the area impacted- including the carb, battery box, and starter motor.   There seems to be some oil migrating forward on the bottom three unpainted radiator fin outer edge, I believe from the same source, as I've yet to find evidence of a leek from the head gasket.

If the oil is not coming from the head plug over the right front cylinder stud - then it is the right rear head stud leaking.

See my posts #16 and #21 in this thread.

verslagen1 wrote on 11/03/19 at 15:36:05:


I'm not sure if I should dread this question, or be grateful it could be the source.   I lubed the plug with engine oil, inserted it with the second ring pressing against the top surface- it seemed too tight a fit to accommodate the second ring in the hole.   I'll pull the cover again now.

Dave wrote on 11/03/19 at 15:28:25:


After removing the cover to access those bolts, can I remove the nut to anneal the copper washer without jeopardizing the other engine gaskets?   If not, do you reckon I should just torque those bolts to spec, in lieu of removal for washer rehab, or resign myself to replacing all the engine gaskets?

How does the disposition of the versiplug sound to you from my description, verslagen1?

Yep, I agree with Versy....remove one nut and washer at a time and you will not have to worry about any gaskets - that is now a "re-torque" of the nuts should be done.

On the right rear stud, apply a small amount of sealer on the bottom and top of the copper washer before you install it, and use anti-seize on the stud and nut.

And.......remove the orange RTV and get some genuine Suzikibond.  Suzukibond is black and blends in with the engine parts - and it doesn't let everybody know you were inside the engine.  It also sets up slower and give you a lot more working time, and it stays fresh in the tube (unlike the kind you get in the local auto store or Walmart) - I bought my tube of Suzukibond in 2012 and I am still using it.

https://www.partsfish.com/product/20518/suzuki-bond-1207b-part-99104-31140

batman wrote on 10/27/19 at 14:13:29:


I was taught, oh-so-many years ago in a metals class, the softest crystal structure of copper is a transient state, the crystal size morphing further as cooling progresses; by quenching in the hottest state, rapid cooling preserves the softer structure.    Maybe not necessary here- we were doing a lot of hammer work, raising and forming, chasing and repoussé.

The reason the plug is there is to allow access to that head bolt, try inserting a deep well socket in first, then attaching the torque wrench, if that doesn't work , remove the exhaust header/muffler . and the two long bolts holding the foot pegs/ controls (maybe loosen your final drive belt)  , that should allow the motor to swing forward and down between the lower frame rails giving you room to torque ,without completely removal of the motor. (don't work harder, work smarter." Logic is the best tool in the box"- Batman  )