The list as of now is:
-Finish that rear brake, for now I'll settle for a hard line straight to it but I have some ideas rolling around for the oem cable.
-break in the piston rings.
-ascertain whether the loose right drum brake was the jingling I heard before
-start work on a metal seatpan and new seat. I like what I was able to get to by hand but I know I can do better with the proper tools. Also with a new seat pan I can give the electronics and wiring more head room and get the seat inline with the tank.
-repaint, this time my wife will have a hand in it as she is MUCH more artistic than me...
-get that VM on there and dialed in and start looking at a head port and more aggressive cam
-get a 3/4 or full rickman fairing. God they're hot.

Did you do the front suspension mod ?

How does that even happen... This appears to be one of the filter things that goes on the raptor petcock. On the opposite side of the tank. What?

Also while test riding today it started backfiring/hiccuping and died on me. Luckily I was in the neighborhood and pulling the choke out helped me limp back home. Any common reasons this happens?

ZSteele wrote on 04/03/20 at 12:00:16:


I was referring to the mod done by a member a few years back, where he used Race Tech springs and the Gold Emulator (?) plus drilling the damper rod.
Do you remember ?

Gave my carb a quick clean. Ive got the idle readout showing 1350ish and if I bump it it drops to 10/1100 before rising back up. Trying to start after I got back to the house it felt like it was just starved, ie it was backfiring on decel. Petcock is spitting fuel and I havent changed jetting. I didnt run into this problem the last time I went out.

High idle when hot usually means its lean. You may need another 1/2 to 1 turn out @ the air mixture screw.
Cool.
Srinath.

Tried playing with the air fuel mixture and the high idle under load is still there, albeit better. I'm going to guess a size up on the pilot is next.

The other thing I'm noticing is this config runs HOT. There is heat absolutely radiating from every inch on it. Yes the pipe is single walled but it is slightly more open (1.625id) and the same length as the stocker. I'm using Rotella T4 as per batman for oil. The Q-0 needle jet Lancer recommends is leaner so I'm at a bit of a loss there.

The popping is very reminiscent of stock config popping but only starts once it's well warmed up.

Once the bike cools down I'll bump up the pilot to a 22.5 and see what happens. I'll also triple check my oil level (has been right in the middle the last few checks) and double check my valve clearances.

Looks carbon fouled to me (too rich)