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"Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War (Read 2194 times)
clearush
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War
Reply #90 - 09/19/12 at 19:00:26
 
meh  Tongue I lied and forgot to add in the 7.99 cost of the dyna beads  Undecided

sorry about that  Sad

Brings total cost to $89.12 and bumps me up to 0.36 per thousandth  still $0.03 cheaper than the Metzler 880v Smiley

anyways updated the excel file when I realized I had left that cost out.
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire W
Reply #91 - 09/20/12 at 04:22:34
 

Are you guys getting the picture yet?  

Pick a tire that costs less, great, but you got to get your mounting costs down as tube, mount, balance and install can be about as much as the tire initially cost if you do it at a stealership .....

Dealerships will screw you on tire mounting and balancing --- try to find other options than the dealer.


Hey, you guys try to update your tread depth and mileage on the second part of the spreadsheet -- you don't have to wait a year to put the numbers in as it will calculate and predict your total tire life after 500 miles or so with some pretty durn good accuracy.  

Hell, I am amazed it keeps giving me about the same predicted total miles and I have updated mine twice now with some very small initial mileage numbers.

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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War
Reply #92 - 04/09/13 at 05:03:22
 
Gentlemen, I have failed you.  I sold the Savage without taking a measurement first.  I'll now wonder off in shame...
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War
Reply #93 - 04/09/13 at 05:59:28
 
I am a huge cheng shin fan for cruisers.
I'd run a Hi max (metzeler copy) front and a Marquis rear. Dont even think about a marquis front, far too hard for front use. I've run it for 15k for the pair on my first savage. The 5 savages that have followed have all gone through my hands too fast for me to even put tires on it, let lone run it to when it was used up.

Cool.
Srinath.
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire W
Reply #94 - 07/05/13 at 04:34:04
 

First mileage check after a trip to the Dragon.  I ripped me off some thread depth, so my predicted results have taken a big dip accordingly.

Mileage update boys, mileage and depth please

   
How to get into the spreadsheet to register your tire or to punch in your new mileage and new depth of thread .....



Go to Dropbox.com           https://www.dropbox.com/

Click on sign in: in the top right corner.

We have a shared generic Drop Box account called:  

suzukisavage@mail.com

with password:       s40boulevard

Now you click on the Public Folder when Drop Box opens up.   This will open the folder with all the shared stuff in it.  

You are looking for the Low Cost Mileage Contest.xls

Wink

Don't forget to save the spreadsheet once you are finished punching in your stuff.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War
Reply #95 - 07/05/13 at 07:25:13
 
so, in a nutshell,, who is winning?
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire W
Reply #96 - 07/05/13 at 13:07:30
 

Right now, the Metzler 880 H series is winning for miles per thousandth very clearly.    Metzler 880 H is a good tire, it is the motorcycle tire folks should be using.

We were tied, but then I went to the Dragon and got all froggy on the rear tire and ripped .010" off of it in a hurry.   This puts me in a hole I may never get out of .....

My bad, but that is the way it really is ..... and this is a reality based contest.

Cost per mile is still tied up between me and the Metzler and it will likely remain so until I post some goodly amount of non-Dragon mileage to get my overall tread usage more back in line with the earlier results.   I may still win one of the categories, the cost per mile one.

I doubt I will win both of them, as I go places and do things that generally eat some rear tire up in doing them.   This tire may see 5-6 mountain trips in its lifetime, so I will keep on going into that same hole for abusive usage of my available tread life.

Still, none of the original folks have bothered to keep up with their tire entries and since they change them tires out every couple of years the tires (and some of the bikes themselves) are already gone.




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justin_o_guy2
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War
Reply #97 - 07/05/13 at 16:24:42
 
Well,, cost/mile varies. It is directly proportional to the Grin Factor.
If a guy can have 30% more fun with a 15% increase in cost/mile..
well,, thats a giggle at a discount,, Ill take it..
The math to prove the relationship is somewhere between calculus & quantum theory, so, dont bother, just accept that it exists,, I cant prove it,with math,  but Ive seen it in action.

Speed = cubic money
giggles are at least $ squared/ cube root of daring,,
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War
Reply #98 - 07/25/13 at 20:06:32
 
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AooWxFXhXokSdE14SXg0WDJyQ19HWHFx...

Don't have excel so I edited with Google drive, made it accessable to anyone that wants to edit online.

Best insturment I have for measuring tread depth is incremented in 1/32 of an inch, I was almost on 5/32 by a hair or two.

Looking pretty good so far 5000 miles into to the tire.
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War
Reply #99 - 07/25/13 at 20:20:16
 

Yes, that Shinko does look good, you have the same cost per mile as the rest of us  have.

That is interesting ....  why don't the rest of you guys go update your depth and mileage and lets see how the rest of you are doing.

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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War
Reply #100 - 07/26/13 at 16:51:11
 
At 10K miles, I swapped out the original Dunlups for a set of Metzler ME880's.  I didn't measure the treads on the Dunlups before I swapped them, but I'm guessing there was still 2/32 or so left.  The Metzlers (after 3K miles) have 5/32 front and 7/32 back.

One thing I noticed, and I haven't run into any comments about this, is that the Metzlers don't seem to handle as well as the Dunlops in wet weather.  I've kicked out the rear in wet weather several times riding the Metzlers in a year, and that only happened maybe once in 4 years with the Dunlops.  (I probably did a little more wet weather riding with the Metzlers than with the Dunlops, but still...)  After kicking out a few times, I've been super cautious to avoid it in the future.  I don't know if having the rear tire lock up and slide out is common to most riders, but I'll have to say I found it disconcerting, to say the least. Fortunately pretty much only happened at slow speeds when stopping at intersections.
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire W
Reply #101 - 07/27/13 at 20:21:42
 

We have tire slip all the time on the Savage and don't really realize it.  Grabbing throttle while inside a turn gets you some rear end "squiggle" but only the folks following close behind you can actually see the tire slip a bit.

Harder tires slip more, especially when braking hard in the wet or downshifting hard in the wet.

Unless you have a dial caliper and can measure your wear to the thou or so you really can't expect any predictive accuracy out of that spreadsheet math.    Data by the 1/32 is far too crude for the math to work accurately.

And even when you got good measurement numbers what it winds up telling you is you do stupid things to your tires to partially destroy them, run them at low pressure, go to the mountains and tear off .010" over 2-3 days, stuff like that.

Then the spreadsheet runs that change data forward and you say "Oh my goodness, to get maximum mileage out of a tire I have to ride like a granny all the time and take perfect care of the tires".

But one thing becomes clear, the Metzler 880 H series may yield the best overall mileage out of a motorcycle tire, but the cheap tires like the Shinko can yield a very similar COST PER MILE RIDDEN compared to a very high mileage tire like the Metzler 880 H.   They just cost that much less.

Last thing, what you pay to get the tire put on weighs to be more important than your riding style -- you get fleeced getting the tire mounted and balanced and you have lost before you even get started in one of these total cost of ownership/mileage contests.

And no, I ain't a gonna to win this one -- the hard rubber VW car tires I used originally wore much better than the MiniCooper/TR6 tires which are all that I can find locally in 165r15 now-a-days.

Next tire I put on will be a Metzler ME880 H series motorcycle tire bought on sale.

(assuming I live that long that is)     Wink
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire W
Reply #102 - 07/28/13 at 10:44:10
 
When I first bought my 2001 Savage in March of 2012 it had 7200 miles on it and it needed new tires. I bought a pair of Shinko tires for it. Front is a Shinko  10SR  712F  100/90-19  57H The rear is a Shinko  10SR  712R  140/90-15  57M0. Both tires now have about 3600 miles on them. The front has about 2/3 tread left but the rear has about 25% left. Over the winter I did a performance rebuild of my engine because the head gasket was seeping and I wanted more power. It now has a 97mm carbide high compression Big Bore Kit, Stage III Web Cam, ported cylinder head, Mikuni VM36 racing carb, RamAir foam air cleaner and a custom muffler. It makes 100% more rear wheel power and since the rebuild the rear tire has been wearing at an amazing rate, about three times the front. I also changed the rear shocks to a pair of 2" longer progressive Harley Sportster shocks and the change in the handling was just amazing. With the different front rake and weight distribution now closer to 50/50 it handles more like my BMW boxer twin now than a Savage. Add to that the power increase and I can now accelerate hard out of corners where I could not before even with the same tires. I will say one thing for these Shinko tires, they are inexpensive (1/2 the price of those Dunlops), stick like glue in the corners and until the power increase the rear tire was on a track to last about 8000+ miles. The front still looks like it will last about 10,000 miles but interestingly the power increase and suspension changes have not affected front tire wear even though I now can charge deeper and harder into corners. The rear tire now will need to be replaced by the 5,000 mile mark.

Tread depth with 4100 miles on these tires is: Front - 5mm, Rear - 4mm...the rear is now wearing much faster than the front due to power increase, throttle usage, etc.  Cool
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« Last Edit: 07/28/13 at 12:59:45 by Super Thumper »  

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justin_o_guy2
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War
Reply #103 - 07/28/13 at 11:03:50
 
The rear tire now will need to be replaced by the 5,000 mile mark.

Welcome to the world of normal,, 5,000 is what I get from Dunlops & I had some other brand I bought twice, first time I got 5,000, so, i did it again,, but only got 3,000 on that one. fronts? meeeh,, they last a lot longer.

have ya had to pull a foot off the peg because it was too tight against the motor yet? even w/ stock shocks, these things WILL lay into a corner.
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Re: "Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire W
Reply #104 - 07/28/13 at 12:40:15
 
FYI.........Retail cost for these two Shinko tires from my shop including mounting and balancing is $249.00. New tubes are $24.95 each.
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