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Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates (Read 17413 times)
misterbbq
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Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers
Reply #285 - 11/01/12 at 09:43:00
 
nice solution!
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Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers
Reply #286 - 11/01/12 at 10:31:49
 
I'm thinking of adding a stainless steel mesh to where the fiberglass batting is supposed to go.  Mine is a supertrapp in stead of the emgo, but the principle is the same.

We use material we call steel felt, which would be perfect, but expensive.  I think the next step down would be several layers of window screening.  The idea is to provide multiple paths to expand in, as the sound goes around the wire and meets up with itself, a small portion of it cancels out.
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Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers
Reply #287 - 11/01/12 at 11:02:04
 
verslagen1 wrote on 11/01/12 at 10:31:49:
I'm thinking of adding a stainless steel mesh to where the fiberglass batting is supposed to go.  Mine is a supertrapp in stead of the emgo, but the principle is the same.

We use material we call steel felt, which would be perfect, but expensive.  I think the next step down would be several layers of window screening.  The idea is to provide multiple paths to expand in, as the sound goes around the wire and meets up with itself, a small portion of it cancels out.


There are two basic approaches:
1. Line the can with material that will absorb the sound.  (like a glass-pack, so to speak)
2. Have the noise pass through some volumes/shapes/compartments that have different damping/resonance factors so the sound is attenuated by going from one compartment to another.  (like an OE stock motorcycle or auto muffler)

With this latest mod, I went from #1 to #2.  I don't have to worry, now, about the freshness or condition of the packing.  There IS no packing.  The only wear factor now is how long it will take for the baffles to rust away.

So far, I like this situation a lot better.  In a month or a year, I might have a different story,... who knows?   Tongue
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« Last Edit: 09/13/13 at 09:55:23 by Gyrobob »  

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Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers
Reply #288 - 11/01/12 at 12:06:13
 
misterbbq wrote on 11/01/12 at 09:43:00:
nice solution!


Thanks.  It seems to be working.
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Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers
Reply #289 - 11/02/12 at 08:38:00
 
This new mod for the muffler may have lowered the back pressure a bit.  
-- It feels like there is a bit more power
-- The back end of the muffler is not as sooty
-- There is more crackling between shifts
-- More burbling/snorting during closed throttle deceleration
-- A louder cough when the bike is shut off

In other words, it is behaving like the mixture is a bit leaner,... which is what happens, relatively speaking, when the back pressure is reduced.
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Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers
Reply #290 - 11/02/12 at 11:03:26
 
Odd.  I would think that your mod would have increased back pressure a little bit.  You can't get much less back pressure than the stock Emgo.  It's just a perforated plate between the inlet and outlet-- basically a straight pipe.
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Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers
Reply #291 - 11/02/12 at 12:29:17
 
The way it is now, the exhaust gases have many more ways to get to the outlet, so the back pressure is less.  The gases can go through the original hole, and around it as well.

The way EMGO engineered it, ALL the exhaust gases have to go through one hole,... a 1 3/4" hole with the flow restricted by a perforated plate.

I'll admit, though, with the toilet paper EMGO uses for sound dampening, about 20 miles into the first ride, the toilet paper is gone, so the muffler doesn't muffle anymore.  Therefore, the exhaust gases and all the noise just flow through the open muffler case, mostly bypassing the perforated "baffle" in the core.  In this situation, the back pressure is less than either of the other ways because, in effect, it is an open pipe.
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« Last Edit: 11/04/12 at 04:39:43 by Gyrobob »  

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Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers
Reply #292 - 11/02/12 at 15:51:15
 
I wonder if that is why the EMGLO packing goes out so fast.....because the exhaust is trying to go around that center baffler.  All the mufflers that I have taken apart that have the perforated pipe and fibeglass matt don't have any restriction in the center of the pipe....they are just straight through.
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Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers
Reply #293 - 11/02/12 at 19:57:15
 
Dave wrote on 11/02/12 at 15:51:15:
I wonder if that is why the EMGLO packing goes out so fast.....because the exhaust is trying to go around that center baffler.  All the mufflers that I have taken apart that have the perforated pipe and fibeglass matt don't have any restriction in the center of the pipe....they are just straight through.


Yes, poor design is part of it.  Another factor is the absurdly light weight and minimal quantity of the packing.  Just look at the pic!!  That amount of packing couldn't stand up to an .049 R/C model motor.
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« Last Edit: 11/15/12 at 10:15:36 by Gyrobob »  

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Re: Double RYCA, new info, fuel filter
Reply #294 - 11/07/12 at 03:36:36
 
Here's the fuel filter we used.  Fairly compact for its flow rate, and supposedly a high quality item since it is a K&N part.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=81-0261

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« Last Edit: 11/15/12 at 10:04:06 by Gyrobob »  

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Re: Double RYCA build 7 Nov fuel filter
Reply #295 - 11/07/12 at 03:59:51
 
Gyro,

I know it is a K&N filtration system.   They say it is "cellulose matting" based but they do not post a micron filtration level anywhere either.

I wonder where the junk goes, down into the matting itself?   The matting is open enough that you can see down into it even in the pics you posted.

It is different, to say the least.


It is also the same "sideways" type of filter that Charon had his scooter issues with .....

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Re: Double RYCA build 7 Nov fuel filter
Reply #296 - 11/07/12 at 04:39:48
 
When we got the K&N filters, just for grins I hooked up one to a fuel line with the filter at one end and a funnel at the other.  
-- With the open end of the filter sitting in the mouth of another gas can, I dumped some gas into the funnel, and the fuel came streaming out of the filter quite plentifully.  
-- I don't know what the actual fuel flow rate was, but for d*mn sure it was greater than any 650cc motorcycle could use.  

I let the filter lay on its side for a few hours while I did something else.  Then I did the test again and it did the same thing,.. the flow rate being obviously way more than a motor twice this size would ever need. It made me wonder if the filter were actually filtering very much,... because it seemed like the flow rate was not reduced very much over what you'd think an empty filter case would have.
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« Last Edit: 11/09/12 at 20:11:10 by Gyrobob »  

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Re: Double RYCA build 15 Nov costs
Reply #297 - 11/15/12 at 09:28:08
 
Some folks have asked about costs.  Most of what is below is in the new moderator thread.  The info is more relevant here, methinks.

If you count everything I have spent on it, the total might be $4,200.  Maybe $3,400 if you don't count things like:
  -- doing the paint over and over and over again to correct screw-ups and sometimes just to experiment.  I've probably spent $200 on Duplicolor and other rattle cans so far.  If I had it to do over (knowing what I know now), a can of bondo, two cans of primer, three cans of color, and a can of Spraytek 2k would do it, maybe $75.
  -- digital flasher
  -- extra LED brake lights
  -- ad-libbed smog system parts
  -- Avon Speedmaster tires (for a 1960s look),.. my buddy used Goodyear Deluxe Champions for the same reason.
  -- bar end turn signals
  -- parts for underseat tool kit storage
  -- parts to redo the fork seals
  -- carb rebuild kit
  -- K&N fuel filter
The install for all these parts is scattered around in this thread.

The welding expense was near zero because I have the equipment.  If someone REALLY wanted to redo the front mount on the battery box to get more room for the RYCA-supplied K&N air filter like I did, the welding would cost $50 to $100 and you'd have to take the frame to a shop.  An alternative would be to make one out of cheap strap steel or aluminum from Home Depot (or some workshop scrap), bend it to shape, and rivet it to the frame with cheapo pop rivets.  That is not a high-stress area.

Also, you can save a lot if you don't go to a larger diameter rear tire like we did.  That way you don't have to pay RYCA to cut into the swingarm,.. just use the stock swingarm and smaller diameter rear tire.

Yes, double the cost because we built two bikes, but we split the cost.  Also he spent some extra on a Li-Ion battery.  I want one too.  UPDATE: If you want a really good Li-Ion battery, don't get an Earth-X.  When they disintegrate, the Earth-X company has a lousy attitude.

On a bobber project a guy did last year in LaGrange, he used about $30 of Rustoleum rattle can automotive paint for the whole project. Home Depot stocks it, as does Autozone, etc.  
  -- A can of automotive black for the frame, brackets, small parts, etc.  
  -- Gray primer for EVERYTHING else,... tank, fenders, side covers, etc.  Primer lays on quite thickly.  You probly only need two or three coats for full color.
  -- All the gray parts were finished off with a couple of topcoats of clear gloss engine paint.
  -- It looks good and there are several colors of primer available. (white, light gray, gray, dark gray, black, brown, reddish brown, tan, greenish-yellow, etc.)  
  -- I saw it when it was first finished, and appeared to be quite professionally done,.. probably because he put a lot of knowledgeable effort into preparing the surfaces, and because he rubbed it out.  From five feet away, it looked like it came from a good shop.  Most folks would have no clue it only set him back $30 and 10 or 15 hours.
  -- I have no idea how it has held up over the past year, but that clear gloss engine paint is pretty tough.  It holds up well except for direct gas spills.  The instructions aren't as simple as plain rattle can color paint, though,.. the timing of recoats is an issue.

Anyway, if you are on a very tight budget for the paint job,... a little know how, a lot of elbow grease, and a few rattle cans can do an impressive job, at least initially,.. for about the same cost as a dinner at Denny's for you and your current wife.
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« Last Edit: 09/12/17 at 12:17:08 by Gyrobob »  

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Re: Double RYCA build 19 Nov mileage
Reply #298 - 11/19/12 at 16:46:56
 
I have been getting a fairly consistent 60 to 65 miles from fill up to switching to reserve.  I haven't, as yet, seen what the range is on reserve.  Maybe I'll take along a quart of gas in a backpack or something and run it dry just to find out.
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Re: Double RYCA build 1 dec top speed
Reply #299 - 12/01/12 at 06:36:25
 
I have about 600 miles on the thing now,... about 3,000 miles on the motor made in 2002.  

Yesterday I checked top speed.  Dry road.  Clear skies.  55 degrees.  No wind.  Body position standard RYCA,.. meaning sitting up, but leaning forward some as dictated by the clip-ons.

On a long stretch of nearly straight country road with no traffic, no driveways, and no crossroads at all, I started the straight section of road at about 60 mph.  After about a quarter mile at full throttle the speedo said 78 and the GPS said 82, and stayed there for the next 1/8 mile.  

In the 1960s, I had a Yamaha YM-1 305cc two-stroke, and a Honda CB350 (325cc) that would go faster than that.
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