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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1304722902 Message started by Gyrobob on 05/06/11 at 16:01:41 |
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Title: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by Gyrobob on 05/06/11 at 16:01:41 My buddy Jud and I are building two RYCA CS-1 cafe racers, side by side. The following link has hundreds of pics of the effort. http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/ It has been pretty interesting so far. Stay tuned for news,.... |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by RpNSht on 05/06/11 at 17:05:58 what is the function of lengthening tensioner? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/06/11 at 19:38:17 To properly tension the cam chain. As stock LS650/S40 motors accumulate miles, the chain stretches and the chain tensioner runs out of travel. The tensioner and chain start making a tapping/clicking noise as a warning. If the problem is ignored, it is possible for the parts to disassemble themselves, turning the motor into a boat anchor. This situation is very unusual for Japanese motors -- they usually last for decades with no problems. See reply #17 in this thread to show how I did a little welding/grinding to fix Jud's overextended chain tensioner. stretched chain causing chain tensioner extended dangerously far http://https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/CamChainTensMod1.jpg?width=320&height=320&fit=bound chain tensioner modified so the plunger part of it is back where it belongs http://https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/CamChainTensMod5a.jpg?width=320&height=320&fit=bound |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/07/11 at 07:38:46 Jud got his bike in late December 2010. A 2000 LS650 with a little less than 14,000 miles. He traded a well-used Yamaha 225 for it. We don't have any pics of the event,.. just a pic of his Spousal Unit testing it out shortly after he acquired it. She rode it around for a few minutes and opined favorably. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAAlAngie02.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/07/11 at 07:44:07 Bob (on the right) got his in Vilonia, Arkansas (late Feb 2011) from a fellow who maintained the bike really well. 2002 LS650 with about 4000 miles. Towed it home on a folding trailer he built from kit. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/BuyingPete01.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/2011-02-22_08-58-53_294irfan.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAPetehomeifran01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/07/11 at 07:47:06 The bikes were parked along "Savage Wall" in Bob's garage, awaiting RYCA parts. We'd take them out for short hops occasionally just for the fun of it, and to develop a feeling for what the bikes were like before the transformation. We sent in the bucks for two RYCA kits in early March. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/2011-02-23_12-09-51_183irfan.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAPetesodo01irfan.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAAlsodo01irfan.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/07/11 at 08:08:13 Some sort of a way to get the bike supported while yanking off parts and putting back on different parts is really helpful. We like this thing a lot. It is lightweight, but really sturdy. Sears in Douglasville had them on sale for a few days, so Bob bought one. Aluminum motorcycle jack,... who'd a known? http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Searsaluminummcyclejack01.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtake_apart2011mar62irfan-1.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/07/11 at 08:16:46 On 6 March, we started tearing into the soon-to-be-ex-cruisers. We removed the stuff we had to send to RYCA -- swingarms, tanks, rear wheel hubs. No difficulties. Took a couple of hours total. Jud shipped the two sets of parts (tanks, swingarms, rear wheel hubs) to RYCA on 7 Mar. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtake_apart2011mar680airfancopy.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtake_apart2011mar686irfan-1.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtake_apart2011mar684irfan-1.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/07/11 at 09:22:49 Pretty nice shop, from the look of the floor.. Whats that propeller on? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/07/11 at 09:41:51 Thanks. The floor is just plain ol' concrete. The propeller is on a 2-place gyrocopter currently under construction. You can see it in the background of the some of the pics at: http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/ |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/07/11 at 16:59:14 Dude, seriously? Autorotate is a cool concept.. I used to go watch them learning, being towed behind a truck, right off the airport property.. They seem to crash a l0t.. please be careful. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/07/11 at 19:39:12 I've crashed a lot more motorcycles than gyrocopters,... and motorcycles go a lot faster. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/08/11 at 13:08:26 Let me plug our special deal here. We are trying to sell all the take-off stuff in one pile. Using estimates from local dealer for what all the stuff would cost to replace with new, we took about a fourth of that and came up with $800 for everything. We got very little response for the whole enchilada. We've had maybe 30 offers for bits and pieces, but nothing for everything. So we've lowered the price to $700. If that doesn't generate any interest, we'll put it on ebay and take what we can get. If THAT doesn't work, we'll sell it bit by bit here, on ebay, and craigslist. We really, though, don't feel like going to UPS a few times per month endlessly. Here's an example of one of the items, a turn signal. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/DSC01557irfan.jpg The whole list is on a thread in the marketplace here: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1299808529 Pics of a lot of the stuff on the list is here: http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/ We even tried to give all four tires away on Craigslist Atlanta. FREE! No takers. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by WD on 05/08/11 at 13:41:10 Not surprised on the tires, IRC cruiser spec are junk. Their sportbike tires are decent, not great, but decent. For some reason their cruiser tires dry rot really quickly, my 98's stock front had 75% tread and was 100% junk at 5k. The stock rear lasted 7K miles, had 65-70% tread but the sidewall weather checked wide enough to stick a finger in. And I ride at 100% max sidewall rating inflation, so heat cycling wasn't a factor. I have a Firestone "street knobby" on my 63 Honda, was installed in the 70s, still flexible, still holds air, no checking at all... Lisa's 96 800 Intruder ran its stock Dunlop Qualifier until 2009, still had tread, finally had enough sidewall/tread checking to replace it. I put 40K miles on a D404 150/80/16 in 18 months with NO checking and still had at least 50% tread. So what will you run in place of the stock junk tires? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/08/11 at 14:36:22 One set is Dunlop 404. The other is IRC Grand High Speed. The IRCs are probably the original tires with about 4,000 on them. The Dunlops are a few years old and probably have a few thousand miles. All four tires look to be in pretty good shape. Anyone close enough to come get them can have them for free. I'm in Newnan, Georgia, on the SW side of metro Atlanta. I can add some pics here in a day or two. Jud is using Firestone Deluxe Champions for the vintage look and feel, like Casey used on the prototype. I'm using Avon Speedmasters for the same reasons, plus they have some sentimental value,.... The first new motorcycle I ever bought was a 1965 Norton Atlas 750 which had Avon Speedmasters. In 1965, those tires were a big deal -- true performance stuff. 3.50-19 on the front and 4.00-18 on the rear for both bikes. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by WD on 05/08/11 at 16:18:11 Was wrong on the brand, my Honda has front 4.00-19 Goodyear AllTraction, 4.50-18 Goodyear Eagle RT on the rear. When I swap the front wheel for a GT750 (2 stroke triple, 1969) tls wheel it will have a NOS Grand Sport GS690 3.25/3.50-19 tire. Speedmasters when it is finished and roadworthy. Right now it looks funny, nice shaped seat but no cowling or rear fender, flat track bars, replica Brit bike levers and perches (with HD mirror mount holes), no side panels (have one but it is ugly) and low pipes with 12" glaspacks. Stock 4.75 headlight, no boots, old black Progressive shocks, gold flake diamond tuck kneepad covers, old style Honda Super Sport grips (Emgo of course)... And factory mid-mounts with cross-over rear brake controller. The RYCA parts look like a fun conversion. Went the other way on my Savage, I can't ride low bars. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by RpNSht on 05/09/11 at 16:27:54 615F5449444944260 wrote:
did you re-harden the case steel of the plunger after welding extension? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/09/11 at 19:41:43 No,... for two reasons: 1. The welding (since it is MIG) would only affect the heat treatment of the plunger to slightly past the original hole, if that far. The surface hardness of the plunger (where it slides in and out of the tensioner housing), would not be affected. 2. None of the other several threads here dealing with welding on the extension mentioned anything about heat treating the extended part. These guys here know WAY more about this stuff than I do, so I figure if none of them are concerned, I won't be either. This does beg a question, though,.... Has anyone here had any trouble with chain tensioner function/reliability after the mod? The first pic shows the tensioner when we pulled the clutch cover off the 14,000 mile motor. The plunger was extended a lot, but no so far as to get cocked in the housing. The motor was making the clicking noise several folks referred to in other threads. The second pic shows the piece we cut out of some mild steel to weld to the plunger. Third and fourth pics show the first grinds after the initial welds. We used a MIG welder because we wanted the minimum duration of weld heat put on the piece, so as to disturb the case hardening of the part as little as possible. The piece was clamped into a vise lined with aluminum to suck out heat as rapidly as possible. Final pic shows the lengthened tensioner. After the welded part was stuffed all the way back in to the housing, and turned loose to tighten the cam chain, the plunger moved back out two clicks on its ratchet. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/CamChainTensMod1.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/CamChainTensMod2.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/CamChainTensMod3.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/CamChainTensMod4.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/CamChainTensMod5a.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/09/11 at 19:46:31 Today the gaskets arrived so we cleaned up the joining surfaces, put the gasket in place, and tightened down the clutch cover gradually using a technique like one would use on tightening a cylinder head. We used 10 ft-lbs of torque. While we had it apart, we also derusted the allen head bolts, and installed a new oil filter. Then we put the bike back to vertical, so it doesn't have that road-kill look it has had for the past few days. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by verslagen1 on 05/09/11 at 20:28:42 372825252C23282129323334352E342E400 wrote:
The plunger is case hardened for wear, not thru hardened. Quote:
Haven't heard of one. Mine has over 50k miles on it. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/10/11 at 03:35:55 I seriously doubt we changed the case hardening any when we MIG welded the extension on the plunger. One of the main advantages of the MIG process is that heat the from the weld is very local, and short in duration. Each time the arc started to fly, it was probably on for one or two seconds, with maybe a minute or two between welds for inspection, cooling, and bulls***ting. Plus, we had the cylindrical end of the plunger in a vise which had a layer of soft aluminum between the steel of the vise jaws and the plunger,... protecting the finish of the plunger and providing a heavy heat sink. I ain't worried none about the plunger. I am interested, though, about long term results from folks here who have done this mod. Verslagen, you have over 50k miles on a Savage? after the cam chain tensioner mod? Wow. That makes me feel all pleasant and tingly inside! :D ;D ;) :) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/10/11 at 03:40:21 Let me toss in here about how much we enjoy this forum. It is not only extremely informative, effective, useful, etc., in the way it can help the Savage newbies (Jud and Bob, infamous double RYCA builders), it is quite a bit of fun just wandering around through the threads reading about this marvelous motorcycle. Thanks LARGE. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/10/11 at 03:52:38 On 13 March, we did some more disassembly. The forks on the workbench are ready for new seals and the lowering mod. The wheels show the brutality of just clipping the spokes to get the hubs separated to ship off to RYCA. If I had it to do over again, I would have taken the time to disassemble the wheels and save the spokes -- you never know when you might need that stuff or be able to sell it. Does that make me a hoarder? I tried to give away those tires on Craigslist and had no takers. >:( http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtakeapart15Mar2011irfan24.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtakeapart15Mar2011irfan22.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtake_apart2011mar691irfan.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtakeapart13Mar2011irfan59.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by ralfyguy on 05/10/11 at 10:52:05 I could use a set of forks. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/10/11 at 19:47:41 Ralfyguy, we will be needing both sets of forks for the two RYCA CS-1s we are building. We recently did the lowering mods on the forks, put the stiffer springs in one set, and put new seals in both sets. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/11/11 at 20:22:44 Here's a stack of tubes inflated just enough to be a little bigger than the size they'll be in the bikes. With the heavy nearly-full paint bucket weighing down like that, it is a way to check for slow leaks. The can didn't descend any for several days, so we think we have no leaks. We are reusing the front tubes. Bought new tubes for the new 18" tires. We also got new rim strips,.. the old ones were not seeming all that pliable. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtakeapart13Mar2011irfan67-1.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/11/11 at 20:29:20 Here's a couple of LS650s relaxing along Savage wall. One up on the jack, the other on the floor. All around them is stuff that will be sold eventually,.. a box of covers, guards, shocks, smaller bits,.... some rear wheel rims, .... Memphis shades windshield,... handlebars,... turn signals,... fenders/lights,.... I wonder what all the stuff weighs that is not going back on the bike. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtakeapart2011mar688irfan.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/12/11 at 06:04:03 As a precursor to renaming the wall "RYCA wall" a new clock face was installed. Hopefully, pretty soon, the wall will be the location for a couple of machines that look more like cafe racers, rather than a couple of hulks leftover from leaving the bikes in a ghetto for too long. We wish we didn't have so much time on our hands, but the only stuff shipped so far is front end pieces and tanks/sidecovers/seats. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAclock02.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/12/11 at 06:15:20 Jud's LS650 probably thinking "WHAT the HELL!!!!" as it sits there, prior to tying up all the hangy-down parts, wondering where 50lbs of its previous existence has disappeared. This is what we got done in another 2-hr session on 15 March. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtakeapart15Mar2011irfan1.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/12/11 at 06:26:21 Bob's 2002 LS650 after the 15 Mar session. All the loose stuff tied up with zip-ties to maybe keep the decade-old flexible stuff from cracking. I wonder how much that remaining lump of motorcycle weighs. Haven't yet done the front wheels. They are waiting for derusting, truing, and tire mounting. Goodyear Deluxe Champion on Jud's bike, and Avon Speedmaster on Bob's. Next step is to study the RYCA videos a bit and start cutting. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtakeapart15Mar2011irfan5.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/13/11 at 05:48:38 On 21 March we did some prep work, like cutting the exhaust pipes where the RYCA videos say to cut. We didn't know there were THREE tubes there. Jeeeez, those pipes are heavy. It really makes you wonder how there could possibly be any bluing on the outer chrome when the heat gets dispersed over three layers of metal and two thin layers of mostly air. It is also interesting how the pipes change relative positions when the pipe is cut near the muffler -- the inner pipe shrinks back into the second pipe which shrinks back into the outer pipe. See the first pic attached. We know a guy at the local airport who is a whiz with all sorts of welding, including thin wall tubing. Aircraft exhaust systems see very tough duty, so the craftsmanship absolutely must be there in order for there to be any reliability. Maybe we could have him weld up some stainless header/pipe assemblies that would hold up well, not have any bluing, and achieve those strange hues that hot stainless gets after a while. Plus, those pipes would certainly be several pounds lighter!!! Another thought is that we might be able to try a different route for the exhaust just for the fun of it. As an example, see the second pic. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/2011-03-21_14-28-24_182irfan.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/highexhaust01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 05/13/11 at 06:17:34 Yeah some different kind of exhaust might be in the future for my bike. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/13/11 at 06:57:12 One issue we ran into was the seal at the bottom of the speedo drive cable. Bob's bike had one, Jud's was misplaced somewhere during the last eighth of a century. Suzuki doesn't stock these anymore. Some solutions are offered on this forum, like use an o-ring or put a thin coat of grease on the moving part, then reassemble it all with silicone seal and let it sit for a couple of days. We found a supplier in Atlanta that will sell ten seals for $50. $5/seal. That might be a reasonable thing, but the supplier won't order them unless we pay first, nonrefundable. We won't pay unless we are sure they'll fit, and all we know now is that the measurements we took come pretty close to the measurements in his catalog. This issue was addressed in another thread a while back. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1299698615/15 http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/ls650speedocableseal02.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650speedocableseal05.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 05/13/11 at 08:08:12 It's tempting to somehow seal off the hole in the case and switch from a mechanical speedo to a digital one. A bonus is that the digital one would read actual front wheel speed instead of being calibrated off engine speed. That means the reading wouldn't be affected by changes in tire diameter or changes in final drive ratios via conversion to chain drive. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/13/11 at 20:14:10 Great idea!! I've used bicycle digital speedometers for rotor tachs in gyrocopters using this idea. Cheap and accurate. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/14/11 at 16:04:46 While we had the forks apart, we figured we'd replace the seals. Both bikes were showing a thin film of fork oil above the dust covers, which means the fork seals weren't sealing very well. Turns out a simple $3 piece of PVC from Lowe's, 2' long and 1.5" diameter is a perfectly dimensioned fork seal tool for the 39mm forks on the LS650. See the thread http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1300797103/0 The folks here were a lot of help. First pic shows fork stuff and new parts,.. clip-ons, fork tools, one set of upgraded fork springs. Jud's using the stock springs with heavier fluid. Bob went with the stiffer Progressive springs option. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/FrontendRYCApartsirfan01.jpg This next pic shows shows the fork internals, and the aluminum tube from RYCA for the lowering mod. That bushing gave me some trouble on the way out and getting it back in. The experts here were a lot of help. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Forkseal01-1.jpg Here's the seal installation tool mentioned above. Only mod needed is to round off the inner diameter at one end so you don't abuse the seal on installation. The beauty of the long pipe is that while the bushing, and then the seal are being tapped in, they are kept in perfect alignment while being tapped in. (perpendicular to the tube)http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Forksealtool1a.jpg Here's the end with the inner edge rounded off to be gentle with the seal. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Forksealtool5.jpg Nice fit, eh?http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Forksealtool2a.jpg Imagine all this stuff slid down in the fork leg. First do the bushing, then the seal.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Forksealtool3a-1.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/17/11 at 13:43:35 We were shocked, nonplussed, taken aback, and agog at the condition of the wheels after we took off the tires/tubes. All four wheels had lots of rust. Supposedly both bikes had been stored inside or in a carport, so they shouldn't have been wet a lot. Nonetheless, there were some pretty healthy rusty areas. For about 14 seconds, we considered getting new (lighter, straighter, cooler) wheels, but,..naaah,.. we'll just make these work. First of all, you might consider not cutting the spokes on the rear wheel like we did. You might want to use them or sell them later. Or,.. at least don't cut the spokes until you get the tires off the wheels. You'll bleed less that way. We were in a hurry to get the stuff shipped off to RYCA, thinking we didn't want to delay the process of getting the wheels back so we could assemble our spiffy new cafe racers. Had we known, now TWO months later, the kits would still not be here, we might have taken more time. Silly us. This first pic shows the spoke-cut wheels. Doing it this way does save an hour or two, but with a two-month wait tacked on, what's the rush? http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtake_apart2011mar691irfan.jpg One of Jud's wheels.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/wheelcleanupirfan6.jpg One of Bob's wheels.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/wheelcleanupirfan5.jpg Here's a technique we used to get the large thick areas of rust removed. Since the areas were pitted significantly, using rust remover and/or a wire brush would have taken forever, and would have violated my sense of laziness. If you use your trusty metal engraver and just slowly and gently let the point hammer away at the pitted areas, you can get about 95% of the rust off, and even get most of it out of the deepest of the pits on the first pass. Be sure to wear eye protection -- The tiny shards of rust really come flying out of there occasionally. After a few minutes of this, I put on some breathing protection as well, because there was a visible thin cloud of what looked like rusty smoke hovering around the engraver. I wish I had a pic of what I looked like with goggles, a respiratory protection device, and ear muffs,... all surrounded by a reddish-brown cloud. Goofy-looking, I'm sure.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/wheelcleanupirfan4.jpg Here's further progress on that same wheel. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/wheelcleanupirfan3.jpg Here's that same wheel all tidied up,..... derusted, scotch-brited, naval-jellied, acetoned, and with a couple of coats of Krylon clear satin. (the wheel has been flipped 180degrees in this pic -- the previously rusty area being on the right side instead of the left)http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/wheelcleanupirfan2.jpg One of Jud's wheels after our engraver-based process, showing what used to be an obscenely rusty area. GAWD, I hate rust!!.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/wheelcleanupirfan1.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- added stuff about wheels Post by MotoBuddha on 05/18/11 at 07:30:20 Would sandpaper have accomplished the same thing with less tedium? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- added stuff about wheels Post by Gyrobob on 05/18/11 at 11:12:02 I tried a few different methods, including sandpaper, but they only took the rust down to the surface. Getting the rust out of the deeply pitted areas was the problem. Eventually I had this EUREKA moment where I was thinking it would be cool to have something tough and sharp that would poke in and out of all these rust-filled pits very rapidly. The engraver happened to still be sitting out on the bench because I had been using it lately for marking some valuables. My brilliant mind finally connected the two ideas,... having both situations sitting right in front of me might have helped some, eh? Sandpaper, wirebrushes and the like work well on rusty areas that aren't pitted badly, but this engraver trick works pretty well on pitted areas. If my blasting cabinet were about a foot larger in every dimension, I would have just sandblasted it!!! In fact, it would probably pay to go to the trouble of hauling wheels rusted like these to a shop that has sandblast cabinets large enough to do the job. It would probably take only about 5 minutes for each wheel to be derusted that way. I probably spent a few hours just derusting and clearcoating the wheels. Then I had a look at how straight the wheels were. Oh,....jeeeeeeeezzz. That is another story altogether, a few hours more. I am becoming rather disenchanted with steel wire wheels. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- added stuff about wheels Post by Gyrobob on 05/20/11 at 06:16:05 The tires arrived 23 March. Coincidentally, Jud's Firestone Deluxe Champions (ordered from Coker Tire) arrived at his house the same day Bob's Avon Speedmasters (ordered from Dennis Kirk) arrived at his. Jud likes the "personality" of the vintage Deluxe Champions. The prototype CS-1 (Casey’s bike) used these tires. Bob is using the Avon Speedmasters because his first ever new bike was a 1965 Norton Atlas that came with those tires. It's just a sentimental thing, and he thinks they look cool in a period-correct kind of way. In the mid-60's Avon Speedmasters were a big deal. The tires as delivered from Dennis Kirk. The fat one is for an FJR-1300,.. Bob's daily driver. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/2011-03-23_09-24-42_976irfan.jpg The amount of time to get from taking the front tire/wheel off the LS650s to the pic below is maybe ten hours per tire/wheel. We had no idea it would be so involved. Getting the old tires off was easy,.. we have the tools. Getting over the shock of seeing how rusty the wheels were and getting dizzy from how out of round they were took a while. Then there was derusting. Then there was clearcoating (for rust prevention) the rims. Then there was truing. Then there was ordering rim strips. Then there was mounting the tires. Here’s a technique we used to minimize the balancing that might be required later: - Mount the tire/tube to the rim - Put the tire/wheel on an axle mounted in a vise or on a wheel balancer. - Spin the wheel and observe where and how rapidly it comes to rest. Mark that spot. - Pop the tire loose from the wheel and rotate it 90 degrees relative to the wheel/tube. - Remount the tire. - Spin it again and observe where and how rapidly it comes to rest. Mark that spot and compare it to the first mark. Keep this up (moving the tire around relative to the wheel/tube) until you get the tire/tube/wheel assembly to come to rest as slowly as possible. At that point you have minimized the overall imbalance. If you are patient and lucky, you might get the imbalances to all cancel out just right so no balancing (ugly looking wheelweights) will be necessary later.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Fronttiresmounted01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA -- 20 May,.. mount/balance frnt ti Post by kevinphan on 05/20/11 at 10:35:31 Another easy way of mounting tires is to use a trash bag. There is a video on YouTube showing you how. Basically just place the tube slightly inflated into the tire, then place a trash bag unfolded on top of the rim then just push the tire down onto the rim. It takes little effort and is so much easier than tire spoons and risking the tube |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA -- Post by Gyrobob on 05/20/11 at 12:12:34 What a fantastic idea! I'll try it on the next tire event. When the RYCA shipment finally gets here, it'll have our rear wheels in it, so I'll have a chance to do it then. Update: the trash bag thing is a cool idea, but we couldn't get it to work on the tire/rim combination we have. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, 23 May, RYCA 1st shipment Post by Gyrobob on 05/23/11 at 14:20:37 27 April was a nice day,.. we got three boxes of stuff from RYCA.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/tanksseatssidecoversirfan01.jpg The side covers after I gave them an initial shot of thick primer to start filling in some of the casting depressions.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan17.jpg The seats look cool. I wonder what the small area and the thin amount of padding will feel like after a few hours in the saddle. The padding seems like pretty good quality, but there is not all that much of it, and I have a boney 64-year-old butt.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAseat7irfan.jpg The tanks are nicely modified, but there is a lot of bodywork to do. The bottom seam where they cut and rewelded the tank ripples in and out a bit. (see the lower edge of the tank in the pic below) Silly me, I thought that when I decided to not strip the tank and to just pay the extra to have them do it, it would save me from having to strip the tank. It turns out they strip it enough to cut and weld it, but not enough to start bodywork and/or painting. Figure on a few hours to get a tank ready for bondo. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan21.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 05/23/11 at 14:28:48 I don't think it's intended as a "few hours in the saddle" kind of bike. More of an errand runner and bar hopper. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/23/11 at 14:52:35 I agree, but there are a few rides in the hills north and east of Atlanta I'd like to do with this thing. Dragon's Tale, etc. I'd rather not have to trailer it there -- it's a self-esteem issue. Maybe I could ride for 30 or 40 minutes, get a burger, ride some more, get some pie, ride some more, get some gas, ride some more, stop in at a bike shop to look around and allow the locals to ooh-and-ahh over the CS-1, ride some more, get some pizza,.. so on and so forth. I'd be there before I knew it!! http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/Miscellaneous/Dragonstale01.gif |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/25/11 at 13:34:14 On 28 April, 2011, we started on the tanks. It took a bit of patience and elbow grease to get them ready to paint. First we had to strip off the stuff that RYCA left stuck on the outside. We chose to take it off mechanically, rather than chemically, using a sharp chisel and various wheels in a drill. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan22.jpg Don't remember this dent being there before,...... http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan3.jpg One down, one to go,.... http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan2.jpg After cleaning the tanks, we were worried about how to protect the underside of the tanks where there are some layers of metal with a little bit of airspace between. (The forward and aft tank mounts) We couldn’t even determine what kind of shape those surfaces were in, let alone get in there to paint them. One worry was that whatever RYCA used to partially strip the paint off the tank might still be stuck in those cracks. (acid?) We squirted a lot of metal prep solution in there with several repetitions of rinse/compressed-air-blow-out to kid ourselves into thinking we got the mostly-hidden surfaces free of whatever left over gunk was left in there. Then several water rinses. (each followed by a compressed air blow out) Then several alcohol rinse/compressed air repetitions. Alcohol combines with water and dries real fast, and leaves no film. We let the tanks sit out in the sun for several hours to make sure those hard-to-get-to surfaces were dry. Then we used some watery white primer Bob had laying around and sprayed that primer into all those surfaces, soaking them to the point of the primer running off in a stream. We let them sit out in the sun some more and dry overnight before doing anything else. Now we estimate those “hidden” surfaces have a coat of primer down in there, hopefully preventing any long-term corrosion. Done on 29 April. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan1.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 05/25/11 at 15:03:43 Good work, but you need to check your calendar. ;D |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/25/11 at 20:03:35 Calendar? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/25/11 at 20:50:01 On 30 April thru 2 May, we spent several hours on the tanks. Cleaning the surfaces, bondo, spot filler, primer, bodywork files, sanding blocks, and packages of wet/dry sandpaper used wet. Not an insignificant effort. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan4.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan5.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan6.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan7.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan8.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan9.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan10.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan12.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan16.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan13.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan14.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan18.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan19.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCABodyworkirfan20.jpg [size=14][/size] |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 05/26/11 at 05:24:44 Very diligent body work. It's going to look great. But are you missing something? http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/f0879646.jpg ;) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/26/11 at 05:33:44 OH MY GAWWWWDDDDDD!!!!!! We ain't got no way to get the gas outa the tank!! Hey, I know,.... we'll fabricate a gas cap with a hole in it so we can run a hose from inside the tank that goes all the way around to the carb. The hose will go from the bottom of the tank, up thru the cap, and then outside the tank down to the carb, which is lower than the bottom of the tank. Once we get a siphon action established, we are on our way!! Pretty simple and reliable, eh? No moving parts. Instant gas gauge. Bottom side of the tank all clean and streamlined looking. Hey!!!!! This could really be something! An accidental discovery to better the miserable state of mankind,.. it'll rank right up there with saccharin, microwave ovens, dynamite, post-it notes, teflon, and penicillin. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/31/11 at 10:48:40 We know this post is out of sequence. ahem.. On 17 April we cut off all the stuff as per the RYCA video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CyrSeBtG1Y Not very hard to do. We were conservative with the cuts,...meaning we left a little extra on each cut so we could grind it down to the exact dimension. We used all kinds of cutting machinery. The drill with the skilsaw-cutoff-wheel-too-small-for-the-saw-anymore wheel worked okay. It is handy for evening things up. The skilsaw is overkill. If it is all you have, though, just take it easy, and be careful. The thing is so powerful, you could make a cut that was a BIG mistake really fast, or,.. worse yet,.. hurt yourself. The welding grinder with a cut-off wheel goes through the frame like a hot knife through butter,.. so if you are in a hurry and/or have a lot of frames to do, AND you can control the thing accurately, have at it! More controllable than the skilsaw, but almost as powerful. A plain old hacksaw would probably get all the cuts done in an hour or so. Turns out a simple little dremel tool with a cut-off wheel works pretty well. It is a lot easier to make precise cuts, and the frame metal is plain steel (fairly soft) so the dremel cuts reasonably fast. You'd probably use up only a couple of wheels for all the cuts on one frame. One thing we have yet to do is to tidy up the cut surfaces so they are clean and perpendicular. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAcuttingtools11irfan.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by verslagen1 on 05/31/11 at 11:15:39 Hmmm... cutting edge technology... I like! 8-) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 06/05/11 at 07:58:58 RYCA tells us we have some boxes on the way!! Maybe we aren't too far from having some CS-1s coming alive. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 06/07/11 at 15:00:01 UPS says the boxes are in Peachtree City, about 10 miles away. Maybe tomorrow! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- Boxes arrive Post by Gyrobob on 06/07/11 at 20:32:51 Well, well, well! Guess what showed up today,....120 pounds of stuff from RYCA. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAfinalshipment7Jun2011_01a.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- unpack everthang 8 May Post by Gyrobob on 06/20/11 at 13:12:01 It's Christmas! I waited a day to unpack all the stuff so Jud could be part of the event. Then we took inventory. Fun. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAshpmnt9Jun20118Medium.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAshpmnt9Jun20113Medium.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAshpmnt9Jun20111Medium.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAshpmnt9Jun201114Medium.jpg We had some prep stuff to do before we actually started buiding cafe racers. Carbs, paint, and, unfortunately, wheels. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- boxes arrive 7 May Post by sbaugz on 06/20/11 at 16:16:30 nice. Can't wait to see your build. Mine is currently stalled, waiting for the painter. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- boxes arrive 7 May Post by Gyrobob on 06/20/11 at 16:48:21 We are doing our own painting. Corvette colors. Jud's is dark metallic blue, mine is dark bowling green metallic. They look almost black until some sort of bright light is on it. Neither of us have done any real painting aside from aircraft painting while working on A&P certificates, (forty years ago for me). We're using Dupli-color because it is so easy and cheap. Just get the surface smooth,... which was no small task on the RYCA tanks. Then prime with scratch-fill sandable primer,.. maybe three coats with a light wetsand of 400 grit in between. Then a few color coats with light wetsand, followed by a few coats of clear. Wet sand with 2000 grit for a bit, then after some rubbing compound and some polishing compound it looks remarkably good. The whole cost for two bikes will be less than $100. UPDATE September 2012: -- Less than $100,.. dream on. -- Duplicolor clear disintegrates when gas hits it. Use Duplicolor Engine Paint Clear Gloss instead. After it cures for a couple of weeks, is rubbed out, and waxed, it can take a brief sprinkle of gas just barely. If the surface gets soaked with gas, you'll have to let it dry for a day or two, then rub it out. Apparently the only way to get a gas-proof surface is to use two-part automotive paint that has to be mixed and sprayed on within an hour or two. UPDATE September 2013: -- Less than $100,.. dream on. (still true) -- Duplicolor clear disintegrates when gas hits it. "Apparently the only way to get a gas-proof surface is to use two-part automotive paint that has to be mixed and sprayed on within an hour or two." Still true. I'll be finding someway to clear coat this stuff with gas proof paint. Either Spraymax 2k or have a real paintshop put on a proper clear coat. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAcolorcompare2a.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAcolorcompare3a.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAcolorcompare4a.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAcolorcompare5a.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAcolorcompare1a.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- boxes arrive 7 May Post by sbaugz on 06/20/11 at 17:59:05 wow, great job using those spray cans. Very smooth and glossy finish you have there. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- boxes arrive 7 May Post by Gyrobob on 06/20/11 at 18:19:44 Thanks. It really is not very hard to do. Just get the surface smooth, prime, color, and clearcoat. It's not like the old days where you had to be a magician with a spray gun to find that elusive layer of paint that was just between orange peel and gullywasher. With this paint all you have to do is get it wet, because all the color coats and clear coats just lay on. You can easily err on the side of what used to be not enough paint because on the final coat you will be wetsanding with 2000 grit for a little, then rubbing it out. Peesa kayk. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- boxes arrive 7 May Post by sbaugz on 06/20/11 at 18:23:43 Those duplicolor paints go on real well too, which helps. Much better than others. I have used duplicolor paints alot and like the results. Strong work. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- boxes arrive 7 May Post by Gyrobob on 06/20/11 at 18:57:54 We did the carbs next,.. combining carb rebuild kits, and the stuff that came with the RYCA parts. One bike had 14,000 mi and probably never had the carb touched. All the phillips head screws were undamaged anyway, and they were really hard to unscrew. The other bike was two years newer and only had 4000 mi, but its screws seemed welded on as well. We studied a lot of the threads on carb rebuilding and tuning -- very very helpful! We got the rebuild kits from Tike's Cycle Parts on ebay. Great place, instant shipping. The folks were real helpful in verifying that the kit works on 2002 Savages even though it is labeled to only go up to 2001. $12.99 each for the kits, with a shipping discount for multiple items. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun83Medium.jpg Getting ready to operate. Cleanliness is a biggy. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun2Medium.jpg We took lots of pics to make sure we knew what it looked like before we took it apart. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun3Medium.jpg The first carb had lots of muck in the float bowl. (so much for the screen on the petcock, eh?) http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun4Medium.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun10Medium.jpg These screws were welded in, it seemed. We were lucky enough to recognize the phillips head deforming before we obliterated it. We finally shocked them loose like the transient enrichment valve screws shown a few pics below. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun17Medium.jpg The famous white spacer. We replaced it with two of the thin RYCA-supplied washers. That thing Jud is holding in his right hand can go back in http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun28Medium.jpg Treat the diaphragm very gently. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun32Medium.jpg Removing the plug covering the idle mixture adjuster. Once you drill a small hole (1/16”?) just put a really small self-tap screw in the hole and yank the plug out. Now the idle mixture can be adjusted. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun55Medium.jpg The next two pics show how we shocked the screws loose in lots of places on these carbs. The carb is firmly (but not crushingly) held in a vise lined with soft aluminum. Use a flat punch or drift to knock each screw back and forth a tiny bit. As soon as you see any movement, you can unscrew it. Go easy. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun78Medium.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun79Medium.jpg Transient enrichment valve diaphragm. Fortunately both of ours looked nice. Not very clean, though. This thing can affect the popping/backfiring on deceleration so often discussed here. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun59Medium.jpg Brown cakey stuff underneath the diaphragm. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun61Medium.jpg The next three pics show a nearly microscopic hole in the diaphragm cover that goes from the slot in the cover to the diaphragm compartment. The 14,000 mi bike had muck in this hole. The other bike looked clean, but we ran some carb cleaner and some thin strands of copper wire through the hole, then blew it out with compressed air. Amazing that this hole, if dirty, can cause the bike to backfire,.. maybe. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun65Medium.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun74.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carb9Jun73.jpg We won’t know for a while, but we feel good about getting the carbs cleaned well, and put back together properly. At least we didn’t have any parts left over. Added comment September 2012: The carbs on both bikes work perfectly,... both bikes started right up on the first try. (well, on one of them we needed to adjust the compression release,.. it was not letting the exhaust valve seat completely.) Anyway, the carb work we did paid off. No backfires other than the typical moderate popping and gurgling during decel. Jud's always goes POP!! when he shuts it off, mine sounds like a muffled cough sometimes when shut off. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by spacepirates on 06/21/11 at 07:56:44 so you say that "thing Jud is holding" ... "can go back in lots of wrong ways" any idea what the right one is? hard to tell from the pic. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by jdeluca on 06/21/11 at 08:15:04 Actually, there's only a couple ways it can go in. The proper way is so that the 4 holes in the bottom line up. 2 of them are for the screws, and the other 2 line up with the slots in the brass plate. When you try to put it together, you'll see what I mean. The only 2 ways it can go in would be 2 non-threaded holes covered or 2 non-threaded holes not covered. You want the not covered way. :) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by spacepirates on 06/21/11 at 10:42:23 626C6D647D6B69080 wrote:
now I can't remember if that is how I put it back together or not. guess it is time to refresh my memory and open her back up. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by Savage 1987 on 06/21/11 at 11:03:26 All these new threads about people receiving their Ryca parts is making me all giddy! I am still waiting for mine, but I know that any day now I will be getting my final invoice and my parts. Gyrobob, great write ups and pictures. I will definitely be referring back to this information when I starting building. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by RpNSht on 06/21/11 at 12:54:51 have you considered the spring mod on the carb as well? i did it when my bike was pretty much stock and the back firing went away completely...im interested to see how it goes with the new jets http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1268545171/0 |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by Gyrobob on 06/22/11 at 06:47:39 3836373E273133520 wrote:
jdeluca is exactly correct. Check for the holes in the diaphragm to line up with the slots in the lockplate (see "B" in the pic below), and make sure the protrusion in the center of the lockplate is on the underside so it pushes down on the spacer ring. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carblockplate01.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650carbpartsdiag01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by Gyrobob on 06/22/11 at 06:53:34 2A3A382B293868696B69590 wrote:
Thanks for the comments. One of the main reasons I am trying to post as much as possible here is just for what you said. I know I have been helped immensely by being able to follow the trails blazed by all the savage-o-holics here. While I don't even pretend to know as much about this marvelous motorcycle as the gurus here, maybe I can show some minefields I stepped into that you can avoid, eh? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by Gyrobob on 06/22/11 at 06:58:47 263934343D32393038232225243F253F510 wrote:
Yes, I am strongly considering the transient enrichment valve spring mod. Our main focus, though, for the next several days is just to get these things on the road!! So, depending on how they run after the mods so far (RYCA exhaust, RYCA carb parts, uncovered mixture screw, K&N filter), we'll have a better idea on how much the spring mod is needed. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by Gyrobob on 06/25/11 at 10:24:03 Next we actually started installing RYCA stuff. Finally. Here's what Jud's bike looked like when we started this phase.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCArollers4Largea.jpg Here's Bob's bike doing a wheelie in celebration of getting some clip-ons, a swingarm and some tires and wheels.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCArollers28Largea.jpg Jud's bike with a similar state of construction,.. tank and seat just placed on top.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCArollers58Largea.jpg Both bikes the next day with more stuff installed. Painting about halfway done. Experimenting with brake cable. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCArollers70Largea.jpg Here's a pic of the RYCA rear brake cable installation. Sbaugz (thanks for the pic) did it just the way RYCA intended. It certainly looks tidy, but the way the cable is routed without the end of the cable secured bothers us some, so we are experimenting with other ways better secure the end of the cable sheathing. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/sbaugzRYCA01c.jpg A longer bolt on the footpeg lever sticks out far enough to have the end of the brake cable fastened to it. The end of the cable sheathing is rigidly fastened to the 4" long bracket which is bolted to the heavy footpeg bolt.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCArollers74a.jpg A close up view of the additional bracket showing the rigid clamping of the end of the cable sheathing. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAbrakecablebrkt02a.jpg Another view http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAbrakecablebrkt01a.jpg Trying to show the dremeled-out concave "slot" the barrel at the end of the cable fits into. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAbrakecablebrkt03a.jpg This is just a first attempt. There will be variations. Anyone got any suggestions? :-? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by MotoBuddha on 06/25/11 at 10:31:38 That's a much cleaner solution. How much slack is there in the wire from the switch to the rest of the harness? I was wondering if the switch could be relocated. Of course, lengthening some wires, if necessary, might not be the hardest part. Oh, wait--what if the brake light is just wired to an accelerometer? ;D But, you know, there must be some kind of digital solution. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by MotoBuddha on 06/25/11 at 11:01:27 I might have found something. My understanding of electricity is rudimentary, but it seems like we could replace the stock switch with a snap acting switch wired to close the circuit when pressure is off its lever. http://www.mcmaster.com/#micro-switches/=cwjc9n Scroll down for corrosion resistant and mil spec versions. The switch could be mounted so that the arm on the pedal releases the switch lever when the pedal is pushed. For example, using that extra bracket you bolted to the rear-set, you could attach a switch so the long bolt you used to attach the brake rod presses the switch closed (off). Then when you push the pedal, the long bolt would rise, releasing the switch and turning it on. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by sbaugz on 06/25/11 at 11:57:47 in all honesty, does it really matter if the rear brake control triggers the tail light or not? I almost never use my rear brake anyways. THe fronts trigger it, so to me its really a mute point. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by MotoBuddha on 06/25/11 at 12:16:15 Same here, but I like problem solving. And there's the matter of passing inspection here. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Post by Gyrobob on 06/25/11 at 14:09:17 47657E65487F6E6E626B0A0 wrote:
Cool idea. A small snap-action switch actuated simply by resting somewhere on the brake lever or the small lever that pulls on the brake rod. Even a Radio Shack 257-016 or 275-017 would work ($3 each) but they would probably have to be replaced after every 10th rain ride. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/radshkcontactsw275-016.jpg Now that I think about it, though, there could well be an advantage to having a cable sneak off somewhere to actuate a switch recessed somewhere out of the way (like on the Savage). The switch itself is away from feet, rocks, bungees, rain, etc. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by Gyrobob on 06/25/11 at 14:21:27 13020115071A600 wrote:
I'd recommend you start using that rear brake. In fact, if you have spent most of your motorcycling life never using it, you are setting yourself up for an unhappy event if you ever have to do an honest-to-god, I'm-gonna-die-this-time panic stop. What happens to folks who don't normally use the rear brake is that a real panic stop causes them to either lock up the rear brake or not use it at all. Both situations are well less than optimal for two reasons: 1. you don't stop as fast as you could, 2. you don't control the bike as well as you could. If you lock up the rear brake, you add very little stopping power and you lose directional control. If you don't use it at all, you throw away its modest stopping power and are more likely to lock up the front wheel which will have you horizontal and making sparks faster than you can say RYCA. "mute" point? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Post by sbaugz on 06/25/11 at 17:27:12 Yes, I meant to type in 'moot point'. I guess I should have posed this question- is there ever a time that you would use rear brake without using the front brake too? I cannot think of such an instance- so again- in my mind the rear brake light switch isn't that big of a deal. Or at least to me its not worth pouring all sorts of time and effort into changing it, when the switch that RYCA came up with works just fine- at least on my bike. With that being said, I have no problem with you working out another solution to the problem, and frankly, I enjoy watching people post ingenious solutions to problems. Oh, and nice job you guys on your build so far. Looks like you have made good progress. I really like those firestones and the speedmasters. I was considering those two as well, but ended up going with Dunlop k70s, which are real similar to the speedmasters. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Post by Gyrobob on 06/25/11 at 19:32:45 607172667469130 wrote:
Sorry,... I couldn't pass up the opportunity for a cheap shot about the mute point. :-[ I like to use the rear brake for the signaling effect. If it is possible (and it is on the Savage), I set up the rear brake light switch so that it comes on slightly before the brake shoes touch the drum. That way I can tap the brake pedal just enough to get someone's attention behind me without actually braking. If I push the brake pedal a little further than I need, it's no big deal because it is on the rear brake which has little power, and doesn't create much of a nosedive from braking. I just don't like the way RYCA routes the brake cable by gripping it on the sleeve rather than at the end of the cable where the engineers designed it to be gripped. Thanks for the build comments. That means a lot coming from you, since you have built one of the most beautiful bikes ever. I like K70s too. I used several of them in the 60's-70's on bikes like Yamaha 305, Honda 350, Suzuki T500. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Post by Gyrobob on 06/25/11 at 19:46:08 57756E75586F7E7E727B1A0 wrote:
Thanks for the cleaner solution comment. Don't they have brake lights (LEDs) on the backs of helmets that respond to deceleration? Come to think of it, I went to school with a guy who wired up his brake light to a mercury switch that would connect on deceleration. The only problem (if it even was a problem) was that just the normal bumps in the road would blink the light on temporarily frequently. I had thought about reversing the direction of the brake light switch, or even swapping the positions of the brake light switch and the anchoring point for the switch side of the brake light switch cable. Since one of the things I don't like about the RYCA routing is that the cable is nearly kinked at the inner end, another idea I had was to just take the cable down to the local Honda/Yamaha/Suzuki/Kaw dealer and ask him if he had something like this cable but a few inches longer. Oh well, maybe we'll have a "EUREKA" moment and stumble across something elegantly simple and brilliantly functional. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Post by MotoBuddha on 06/25/11 at 20:37:07 What about reshaping the part of the rear-set the brake rod attaches to so it has a cam shape? Or maybe the locking ring. Then the snap-action switch, mounted to the rear-set bracket, could ride on the "cam." |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Post by Gyrobob on 06/26/11 at 06:09:26 Hmmm,... use the brake rod lever as a cam for the snap action switch with a roller, eh? How tidy! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- front brake line routing Post by Gyrobob on 07/13/11 at 06:44:03 There is too much front brake line after lowering the forks and installing clip-ons. After looking at several of the mods, I decided to try this one. We may still get some shorter ones made, but until then we'll see how this looks/works. The routing goes behind the headlight, under the frame behind the forks, through a bracket brazed to the horn bracket then down the left fork leg. Update: in reply #86, Sbaugz mentioned a clearance problem with the RYCA tank and the horn. Dammitall!!! He was right. This front-brake-line-routing-using-the-horn-bracket idea needs to be revised. Here's the horn bracket and the scrap metal to be shaped and brazed. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Frbrkhosertg07.jpg Bracket brazed. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Frbrkhosertg05.jpg Test fit. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Frbrkhosertg06-1.jpg Painted with Rustoleum automotive gloss black. Nice surprise is that it pretty well matches the industrial black finish on the stock frame. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Frbrkhosertg03.jpghttp://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Frbrkhosertg04.jpg Painted part installed with test fit. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Frbrkhosertg02.jpg With horn installed. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Frbrkhosertg01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Post by MotoBuddha on 07/13/11 at 08:02:40 It doesn't kink too sharply when the forks are at full left lock? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Post by Gyrobob on 07/13/11 at 10:49:41 46647F64497E6F6F636A0B0 wrote:
Nope. Just bends a little more. It's not kinked anywhere near as much as the way some guys are doubling it over and putting a ziptie on it. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by sbaugz on 07/14/11 at 05:16:49 Did you try fitting your tank on yet? I had to buy a smaller horn because the tank would not fit up against the stock horn. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by BuckRYCA on 07/14/11 at 09:13:03 Hi. I would suggest that if your brake line is over a couple of years old that you consider replacing it with a stainless steel line. It is a wear item. I got a custom made Galfer from Racecrafters.com for $67 delivered. Mine is 37" (center of banjo bolt to center of banjo bolt) and fits perfectly, but I have low-rise handlebars instead of clip-ons. This line never needs to be replaced and provides much better braking feel and power than the rubber OEM one. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by Gyrobob on 07/14/11 at 17:36:20 417660684B4E4040030 wrote:
Sound reasoning. Do you have pics? What length would I need for a standard RYCA set up with clip-ons? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by BuckRYCA on 07/16/11 at 15:07:30 Here are some photos of my Galfer brake line: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1-5ecFghon-twhKCVZdVb8Qm1MV8p6ivxdddKcAdkWw?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/R8QOjUhMW_cTsjI_Sfvl58Qm1MV8p6ivxdddKcAdkWw?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ed7aBL1nOT6Jh_V-z_6tCMQm1MV8p6ivxdddKcAdkWw?feat=directlink |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by Gyrobob on 07/16/11 at 15:19:42 7740565E7D787676350 wrote:
Sure looks tidy! I suppose I could just get a piece of coat hanger wire and bend it to the approximate shape of the brake line, then measure that. I'd need to check the length at full lock on each side, hmm? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by BuckRYCA on 07/16/11 at 19:22:39 I used a piece of vinyl tubing to get a length, checking at full lock on each side, then added 1". |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by Gyrobob on 07/16/11 at 20:34:08 Good idea. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by Seroj on 07/17/11 at 15:45:09 I went with a 30" line and added a straight fitting on each end, so total lenght was probably about 33" |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by MotoBuddha on 07/17/11 at 17:44:07 5B6C7A7251545A5A190 wrote:
If the brake line isn't attached to the frame anywhere, the lock-to-lock doesn't matter. The master cylinder, forks and caliper all move together. However, we do need to check what happens under compression and full rebound. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by Gyrobob on 07/19/11 at 06:18:38 406279624F786969656C0D0 wrote:
That generates a thought,... what if there were a solid line from the brake reservoir to the left side of the fork, halfway down? Then run a short flexible line from that point to the caliper to account for suspension movement. The advantages would be: very tidy looking upper area on the forks (assuming the brake line was bent very accurately), lighter weight maybe, no rubbing anywhere, uniqueness, crisp brake action since the all-metal part of the line would not expand at all under pressure. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by RidgeRunner13 on 07/19/11 at 07:56:12 5C6269747974791B0 wrote:
That generates a thought,... what if there were a solid line from the brake reservoir to the left side of the fork, halfway down? Then run a short flexible line from that point to the caliper to account for suspension movement. The advantages would be: very tidy looking upper area on the forks (assuming the brake line was bent very accurately), lighter weight maybe, no rubbing anywhere, uniqueness, crisp brake action since the all-metal part of the line would not expand at all under pressure.[/quote] It will work fine, but put in a couple of small coils near the m/c fitting(I wrap the tubing aroung a socket) to absorb vibration or it may crack. :o :( I found out the hard way with metal fuel lines on a racecar. :-? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by MotoBuddha on 07/19/11 at 08:13:12 0A343F222F222F4D0 wrote:
That generates a thought,... what if there were a solid line from the brake reservoir to the left side of the fork, halfway down? Then run a short flexible line from that point to the caliper to account for suspension movement. The advantages would be: very tidy looking upper area on the forks (assuming the brake line was bent very accurately), lighter weight maybe, no rubbing anywhere, uniqueness, crisp brake action since the all-metal part of the line would not expand at all under pressure.[/quote] I've seen bikes set up like that before. Old R-series BMWs come to mind. Or was it the other way around, with a solid line from the caliper to the top of the slider? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info 31 Jul -- wiring Post by Gyrobob on 07/31/11 at 11:56:54 Just extended the wiring bundles that go from the ignition switch to the harness plug. They are now 24" longer. There's a new thread in the tech section on a tidy way to do this: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1312137269 http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAignhrns05-1.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/DSC03798-1.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAignhrns06.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by Gyrobob on 07/31/11 at 12:13:08 0A283328053223232F26470 wrote:
That generates a thought,... what if there were a solid line from the brake reservoir to the left side of the fork, halfway down? Then run a short flexible line from that point to the caliper to account for suspension movement. The advantages would be: very tidy looking upper area on the forks (assuming the brake line was bent very accurately), lighter weight maybe, no rubbing anywhere, uniqueness, crisp brake action since the all-metal part of the line would not expand at all under pressure.[/quote] I've seen bikes set up like that before. Old R-series BMWs come to mind. Or was it the other way around, with a solid line from the caliper to the top of the slider?[/quote] How about a solid line from the caliper to the top of the slider, connected to a looped flexible stainless line, connected to a solid line to the clutch lever? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info 31 Jul -- wiring Post by MotoBuddha on 07/31/11 at 12:24:30 Sure, that would work. It's just a lot of work -- which is sometimes worth it to have something unique. You're creating two more joints that need to not leak. I suppose the connections they use in automotive applications would work. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info 31 Jul -- wiring Post by Gyrobob on 07/31/11 at 12:34:22 7F5D465D704756565A53320 wrote:
Yes, yes, yes. It does violate the KISS principle. I also agree it ends up to be a trade off like everything else in life -- balancing the cool factor against simplicity/cost/reliability/etc. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info 31 Jul -- wiring Post by Gyrobob on 08/01/11 at 19:08:44 While experimenting with the bolts for the instruments (thinking the chunky-looking allen head bolts were too,.. well,… chunky-looking), I was sanding off the heads of the carraige bolts to remove the printing, and noticed an unusual appearance left on the sanded surface. What kinds of comments might you folks have about how this looks? Here’s the plan: http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/Miscellaneous/carraigebolt01b-1.jpg Here are some pics,... Here are the heads after sanding on a belt sander: http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAcarrgboltinstrmt2Large.jpg One bolt head and one bolt with the screwdriver slot at the other end: http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAcarrgboltinstrmt4Large.jpg Two views of the bolts in place: http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAcarrgboltinstrmt6Large.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAcarrgboltinstrmt16Large.jpg The bottoms of the bolts might have acorn nuts to tidy up the tacky-looking slot. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Post by Gyrobob on 08/02/11 at 05:54:04 6D7C7F6B79641E0 wrote:
ooops I wish someone (like you,.. or RYCA) would have mentioned that sooner. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build, new info, instrument bolt h Post by Gyrobob on 08/16/11 at 20:18:18 This info was also in the other thread about EMGO mufflers. I just had a look at the insides of our mufflers,.. I am pret' near flabbergasted they would use such inadequate packing. The fiberglass in there looks like it'll be about as effective and durable as toilet paper. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAEmgomufflerpack3Large.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAEmgomufflerpack2Large.jpg I'll be checking out some sources for packing material the guys in the EMGO thread mentioned. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 08/16/11 at 20:31:25 This info is also in the bolt rubbing on the belt thread. It looks like I have even less clearance than the other RYCA builders. The belt is almost rubbing on the boss on the case, even with the bolt removed. It looks like I will have to not only use a roundhead allen bolt (probably flattened some), but I'll additionally have to grind the boss down flat with the case, maybe .080 or .090". http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/BoltnearBelt1Large.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Oldfeller on 08/17/11 at 01:29:38 You can countersink a flat head allen screw to be flush mounted to the aluminum housing if you need to. The countersink is a simple 45 degree countersink you can get from Harbor Freight and the screws you can get from the on-line boltdepot.com place listed on this thread. http://www.boltdepot.com/dimension.aspx?cc=25&cs=83&cm=19 All the fender bolts on the inside of this fender were flush mounted to the steel fender, so aluminum should be fairly easy to do. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1181496112/2 |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 08/17/11 at 05:18:21 0A2921232029292037450 wrote:
But rather than pay shipping on one bolt, you can probably find one that size at an Ace Hardware for about $1.50. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 08/17/11 at 06:08:28 Oldf and Moto, Great idea. Countersink the hole and get a matching allen head screw. I have the "countersinker" already, and I might even have the screw lying around somewhere. If not, I'll try Lowe's or Hommy D'pot. Thanks large. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 08/17/11 at 11:15:00 But Ace has stainless steel fasteners. Mmmmmmm stainless! And they're carefully organized, unlike HD or Lowe's. They also come individually so you don't need to buy a 4-pack or whatever. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 08/18/11 at 03:41:58 42607B604D7A6B6B676E0F0 wrote:
The surgery went well. Both bikes now have 1/16" clearance. The head of the screw is nearly flush with the existing surface of the boss. The metal in the case at that location is soft! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 08/18/11 at 05:22:10 An afterthought that might be a bit late. You might want to have a vacuum sucking away the shavings as you countersink the hole. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by ralfyguy on 08/18/11 at 10:38:42 Maybe he stuffed something in there prior to countersinking. Actually the shavings shouldn't drop into the case, they should just go further down the hole meeting the thread. I don't think it is open space between the visible hole and the thread. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 08/18/11 at 19:09:23 56746F74596E7F7F737A1B0 wrote:
485B565C435D4F433A0 wrote:
Valid concerns. After I countersunk the hole, there were just a few shavings right there,... unreachable, but still near the surface. I used an electronic equipment duster (compressed 1,1-diflouroethane) with a 1/16" diameter straw stuck into the head, inserted the straw an inch past the shavings, closed my eyes, and pressed the button,... blasting the shavings back out of the hole. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 08/22/11 at 08:46:00 I'm trying to get the tanks to line up properly. As set up by RYCA, the forward tank mounting bracket is supposed to be adjustable. It is adjustable, but it seems to me that the puny little fasteners (size 6 screws) are nowhere near powerful enough to hold that bracket in place with a tank full of gas, a bumpy road, and a big thumper vibrating away underneath. I see two possibilities. 1. Replace the fasteners with bigger stuff so it will clamp the bracket into place for real. 2. Once I get everything lined up, drill a hole through the bracket and the frame and install a bolt there so the bracket can't move. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 08/22/11 at 16:00:40 Or, before you make work for yourself, you could ask Ryca if they've had any problems with the bracket loosening or the fasteners breaking. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by sbaugz on 08/22/11 at 16:06:50 15372C371A2D3C3C3039580 wrote:
agreed, I wrenched on mine a bit to get it lines up. Have 500 miles on mine so far and no issues. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/21/11 at 14:31:41 Here's a list I keep updated of all the videos/documents/etc. for a RYCA build. It's in the RYCA update section,.. just click on this link: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1297565987/79#79 |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/21/11 at 14:36:26 I've found that I keep one of my drills reserved for taps,.. and I keep a set of dies handy as well. Just about every threaded item from RYCA needs to have the threads "chased" to allow everything to bolt together easily. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by sbaugz on 09/29/11 at 17:10:25 what's the status on your builds? anxious to see them. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/30/11 at 06:15:11 24353622302D570 wrote:
We are in that almost done mode,... you know,... where we are 95% done, but the last 5% takes as long as the first 95%. Plus, some other "priorities" have been getting in the way temporarily. Realistically, we hope to have them running in a few weeks. Thanks for the interest. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 10/22/11 at 17:57:32 [size=14]Okay okay okay,... I finally did something about the RYCA-supplied air filter. The problem was it would almost fit, but not quite. It fit well enough so that if it were jammed in place and the hose clamps torqued down enough, it probably would have stayed in place. It just bothered me, though, that the carb wasn't fully "popped" into its place in the intake rubber, and the filter was just a little cockeyed as it was torqued down onto the carb. At first I tried just relieving various clearance problems around the edge of the filter. I peened the frame crosspiece up about 1/8" as well as grinding off part of each nut welded to the frame crosspiece that holds the tank down, and, grinding off a lot of the head of each hold down bolt. I also ground away some of the RYCA battery box (the upper/forward) part that interfered with the filter. That is the box on the right in the pic below. That didn't work well enough. So,.. I got adventurous. I added a couple of tabs to the frame just aft of the frame crosspiece. --- It was simple. I found a large seatbelt washer, cut it into fourths, and MIG welded each fourth into the frame. (two on each bike) --- Then I cut that upper/forward part of the battery box back. I put some blue tape on the modded area just to make it more illustrative for the pics. That is the box on the left in the pic below. Then I tested for a fit, and, ...YAY! The carb is fully popped into place and the filter fully fits on the carb, which just touches the peened up part of the frame crosspiece. Instead of using the RYCA bolting scheme,.. I'll use the stock system to hold the tank down, making sure the bolts don't poke through the stock welded on nuts, or they will hit the filter. Two additional bolts will fit into the holes drilled through my welded-on tabs, and drilled into the battery box. For those who don't have access to a welder, you might consider making a tab in the same location cut out of a piece of aluminum angle and pop-riveting it into place. I was heading down this path for a while. I actually made one tab. But then I changed my mind and decided to weld it all in. Now,... what to do about the breather,..... Cute, huh? This how I clamped the tab into place so I could tackweld it. http://https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/RYCS_filter_clnc_mod_06_(Large).jpg?width=450&height=278&crop=fill Two tabs welded into place. All that red signage underneath is just to keep tiny hot chunks of metal off the bike whilst welding.http://https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/RYCS_filter_clnc_mod_02_(Large).jpg?width=450&height=278&crop=fill Here are the two boxes. The one on the right shows my first attempt to get enough clearance, with some of it relieved where it interfered with the filter. The one on the left has been cut back to fit onto the new tabs. The tape is just there to emphasize the changes. http://https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/RYCS_filter_clnc_mod_04_(Small).jpg The next two pics show how the filter just fits now, and how the box is bolted in. This last pic shows how the stock welded-in tank hold-down nuts are ground off to clear the filter. The pic also shows how the cut-down upper-forward part of the battery box bolts in place. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by crackmonkey on 10/22/11 at 18:27:13 what is your thought on this idea: what if you were to cut the whole center tab off of the frame and move it back to the area where you added your tabs? looks like it might clear the entire filter |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 10/22/11 at 18:45:49 The tank/seat mounting tabs need to stay in place. The material between the captured nuts might be able to go. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by wombat on 10/24/11 at 05:52:28 Bob, No need to go through all that. Like you, I started hacking away at the battery box to make the K&N fit until it looked like I'd weaken the box so much that I stopped and changed filters. I found a much smaller and good fitting filter from Uni, their Universal Clamp-On. By the way how did you remove the "chrome" from from your headlight bucket to get it ready for painting? 0C3239242924294B0 wrote:
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 10/24/11 at 06:43:49 3C2426292A3F4B0 wrote:
"No need to go through all that." We each have our own whims. I didn't want to discard the expensive RYCA-supplied filter. Also, with the metal backside, it lines up with the solution I'm going to use for the crankcase breather as well. What took the most time was me just pondering, and trying this and trying that. Now that I know a way to get the situation handled, I'll bet the second bike will take maybe an hour to cut down the battery box (10 min with a hacksaw), weld in the fourth-of-a-washer pieces (30 min), drill the holes (5 min), and tidy it up (whatever min). "Going through all that" is not a very big deal if you have a washer to cut into fourths and a MIG welder, or even a cheapo flux-core welder you can buy at Harbor Freight brand new for the cost of a couple of K&N filters. I'd like to see some pics of your Uni filter set up. I just peeled the chrome off the plastic. It took a while and it needed some sanding to smooth it up for a few coats of wetsanded scratch-fill primer. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by wombat on 10/24/11 at 16:17:25 I agree with you on the "we each have our own whims" thing. These are custom bikes, so indulging our "whims" is what it is all about and makes each bike our own. Information on the Uni filters can be found at http://www.unifilter.com/online%20catalog/universal.html Scroll to the bottom for the Pod Kits. Not cutting of any Suzuki or Ryca parts needed. When you say "peel" the chrome, what tool do you use to do the picking with gouging? 1D2328353835385A0 wrote:
"No need to go through all that." We each have our own whims. I didn't want to discard the expensive RYCA-supplied filter. Also, with the metal backside, it lines up with the solution I'm going to use for the crankcase breather as well. What took the most time was me just pondering, and trying this and trying that. Now that I know a way to get the situation handled, I'll bet the second bike will take maybe an hour to cut down the battery box (10 min with a hacksaw), weld in the forth-of-a-washer pieces (30 min), drill the holes (5 min), and tidy it up (whatever min). "Going through all that" is not a very big deal if you have a washer to cut into fourths and a MIG welder, or even a cheapo flux-core welder you can buy at Harbor Freight brand new for the cost of a couple of K&N filters. I'd like to see some pics of your Uni filter set up. I just peeled the chrome off the plastic. It took a while and it needed some sanding to smooth it up for a few coats of wetsanded scratch-fill primer.[/quote] |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 10/24/11 at 16:57:08 Wombat said: Quote:
It was already scratched in a few places with loose edges, so I just started there and began to peel,... sort of like getting the shell off a stubborn boiled egg. Mostly I just used my fingers to peel it off, once I got it started. I used a knife to lift up an edge to get it peeling again sometimes. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by skeebo on 10/26/11 at 17:48:27 Nice Mod Gyro.. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 10/26/11 at 19:10:33 7D656B6B6C610E0 wrote:
Thanks for the comment. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 10/27/11 at 06:54:11 Here's one solution to the crankcase breather. I poked a hole in the RYCA supplied K&N air filter, put in a grommet, inserted a crankcase breather (maybe fits a Taurus), and hooked it up to a shortened breather tube. Here's the RYCA filter with a 15/16" hole put in it. Next time it will be offcenter about 1/8" for clearance. http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843976-T800600.jpg Here are the four parts to be assembled http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843977-T800600.jpg Sources for the parts. http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843982-T800600.jpg Grommet installed in the K&N filter. Next time I'll use a grommet with a wider ring around the outside because the filter has a really thick coating of rubber inside the metal, maybe 5/32" thick for the metal and the rubber. http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843985-T800600.jpg Breather installed into grommet (tight fit), elbow attached to breather with a piece cut from existing breather tube. In this pic the elbow sticks out too far, so the tube on the breather was shortened some, as was one side of the elbow. http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843986-T800600.jpg Other side of the breather assembly. http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843987-T800600.jpg Air filter and breather assembly installed. It fits fine with NO room to spare. http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843992-T800600.jpg Left side view. (or is that port side?) (but what if I am facing the bike?) ;-) http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843990-T800600.jpg View looking up. http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843994-T800600.jpg Another pic but with flash this time for diff lighting detail. http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843997-T800600.jpg =======24 Dec 2023 update; Sorry about the missing pics, I'll try to go through this thread and tidy all that up===== I may drill a tiny (maybe .020") hole in the white (soon to be painted black) elbow for drainage. It's the low point. I really won't know how this will all work until we start 'em up. At least we have a token effort in place for the tree huggers, and it looks fairly tidy. Cheap too,.. several bucks total. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by arteacher on 10/27/11 at 07:26:08 That is a slick solution. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by built2last66 on 10/27/11 at 07:27:43 I hope it rumbles right up. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Boule’tard on 10/27/11 at 08:05:44 645A514C414C41230 wrote:
It looks like maybe you can rotate the PCV valve counterclockwise and make the elbow snug up to the frame and no longer a low point. Even if not, I bet any dribbles of oil will just work their way through the elbow without your having to drill a hole in it. That would also eliminate the chance of dust getting sucked into the clean side of your filter. Great work. I envy those welds. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by babyhog on 10/27/11 at 08:23:02 I can't interject much on the technical side, but I must say you take some really nice, crisp, clear photos! :) Should be a great help to those in need. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by MotoBuddha on 10/27/11 at 11:18:51 Very slick solution that I will now try to rip off. But I think I'll look for a brass version of the elbow, just for looks. ;D |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 10/27/11 at 12:15:52 6C4E554E635445454940210 wrote:
That elbow is white temporarily, I assure you. It has a couple of coats of black engine paint in its very near future. One of the reasons I post so many pics is to make these ideas easily rip-off-able. Imitation is the sincerest from of flattery, eh? Arteacher 2922222B2728293332460 wrote:
Thanks much. Let's just hope it works well. Built2last66 65726E6B73356B6674733131070 wrote:
Me too, thanks. Boule'tard 202D372E2736233026420 wrote:
It looks like maybe you can rotate the PCV valve counterclockwise and make the elbow snug up to the frame and no longer a low point. Even if not, I bet any dribbles of oil will just work their way through the elbow without your having to drill a hole in it. That would also eliminate the chance of dust getting sucked into the clean side of your filter. Great work. I envy those welds. [/quote] I am considering that very thing -- great minds work alike. If I rotate stuff so the low point is in the Ford Taurus crankcase breather then I could drill the tiny hole there and put a simple one-way "valve" sitting over the hole,.. sort of like a reed valve. The pulses in the tube would probably push out any small amounts of oil and condensation. Thanks much for the ideas and the comments. Babyhog 6D6E6F62607A030 wrote:
I appreciate that comment a lot. I do put a little extra effort into the pics. I use a Sony NEX-5 set on max size and resolution, then photoshop the pics to crop them and reduce the file size. I like photography and I, too, get a kick out of it when someone takes really good pics. Conversely,..... ::) On a related note, I tend to take a zillion pics during a project,.. especially during disassembly -- I have saved my a** many times by being able to go back and remind myself how something goes together. I've even been able to help a few folks here that had that same need. Thanks, ALL, for the comments. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by wombat on 10/29/11 at 12:33:01 Does the regulator/rectifier still fit on the battery box? 58666D707D707D1F0 wrote:
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 11/01/11 at 14:41:19 In response to some questions/comments about the crankcase breather mod, here are some pics showing the clearance between the breather, and the rectifier. Also shown are the wires being able to poke up through the holes, and, in response to massive needling, the elbow's new color scheme!!! http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1860315-T800600.jpg http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1860323-T800600.jpg http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1860330-T800600.jpg http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1860333-T800600.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 01/23/12 at 17:48:42 After some low-productivity times, the production line for Double-RYCA build is probably going to get moving again. The next order of business is the electrical system. I have all the plugs and wires identified, labeled, and in their approximate positions. For you guys who have already blazed the RYCA electrical system trail, I have some questions. For a 2002 Savage, what do we do with these things? -- Decompression controller - just leave it wired up? do we have to jump any of the terminals? -- Decompression solenoid - this is just taken off and sold on ebay, methinks. -- Side stand relay -- take it off? -- Side stand diode -- remove it? leave it wired in? -- Side stand switch -- jump the terminals in the connector? Thanks for any info. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by sbaugz on 01/24/12 at 04:08:47 4C7279646964690B0 wrote:
its been almost 10 months since I completed mine, so my memory is a little foggy. I do recall that nothing had to be "jumped" on mine. I am pretty sure you just disconnect all the above mentioned items. I do remember for sure that the decompression solenoid was just removed (and I sold mine on ebay). I also remember for sure that the decompression solenoid connector was just taped off (and not jumped). The kick stand wiring is where my memory isn't serving me very well. Pretty sure I didn't do anything except unplug and tape off. Someone else will chime in, I am sure. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by wombat on 01/25/12 at 06:26:54 Wiring, if done properly, is the most time consuming part of the build. But important if you want a good running bike. Firts know that the the Ryca LED turn signals make the stock turn signal relay go on-and-off too fast. Replace it with a digital one. Try an “LF-1-S flat” from superbriteled.com Regarding the Sidestand Switch: Easiest: remove switch and join the two wires to make a constant ground. Clean: remove sidestand relay, as it is no longer needed. Connect the wires going to the #3 (orange/blue) and #4 (orange) terminals. Remove the unused wires going to the #1 (green) and #2 (orange) terminals. Cleanest: also remove the sidestand diode. It is part of the sidestand ignition-lock-out (or “interlock”) system which is no longer functional as you’ve removed the sidestand switch. Connect the wire that goes to the neutral switch (blue?) to the wire going to the neutral indicator light (not sure of color). The third wire (orange?) is part of the sidestand switch/relay circuit and can be eliminated. As to the decompression circuit. I can't help you. I made recesses in the bottom of my tank to accomodate the solenoid and cable, as I didn't like Ryca's foot pedal system. A quick look at the wiring diagram, however, shows that there's plenty or wires and relays to be gotten rid of. Good luck 033D362B262B26440 wrote:
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 02/11/12 at 14:29:22 I'm wiring up the tach and speedo. According to RYCA's instructions, the black wire is ground, the red wire is +12v for the light bulb, and the blue wire is +12v to power the tach, and the green wire is the voltage pulse from the coil. When I hooked up just the red and black wires for the tach and speedo to just test the lights inside the cases, both lights lit up, but the needle on the tach snapped all the way to the right and quivered. That doesn't make sense to me. Why would the needle move from just applying 12v to the red wire? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by scubachef on 02/12/12 at 12:03:29 I'm not sure why, but I used their tach and it did the same thing to me when I wired it. Fired the bike up and it works fine. Not sure the reason, but it seems like a non issue. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 02/12/12 at 13:25:19 5E4E584F4C4E45484B2D0 wrote:
Thanks. I guess I feel better now, but I sure am curious as to why it slams all way the over like that. What does the needle do during normal operation? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by arteacher on 02/12/12 at 14:16:54 My educated guess is that there is a capacitor in the circuit to even out the pulses so the needle doesn't vibrate. The needle "slams" over until the cap charges up. I have a Baron Bullet tach and it does exactly the same thing yours does. If I shut the bike down and start it right back up the needle doesn't slam, because the cap hasn't had time to drain. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by sbaugz on 02/12/12 at 16:14:45 4656405754565D5053350 wrote:
yep, what he said. mine does that too- once the bike is running, the needle settles back down to "zero" |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 02/12/12 at 17:06:57 Thanks, Gents, for chiming in and lowering my angst level a bit. When I first saw that I thought I had wired something up incorrectly and fried the tach. I couldn't imagine how I could have hurt anything since there was only 12v from the battery available, but it sure seemed weird. I'm not using the horn 12v supply. I moved the horns forward a bit so they clear the tank, so the original horn wiring is in use. For the 12v supply for the instruments I am using the plug for the old instrument panel,.. tapping into the gray wire socket. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 03/24/12 at 18:59:38 Did any of you see the CS-1 at the Suzuki tent during Bike Week? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 03/25/12 at 17:36:14 Well, hell. I just got all the wiring in place, turned the key to on, and blew a fuse. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by verslagen1 on 03/25/12 at 17:53:26 Hell? figured you for WHEAT! :o |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by BuckRYCA on 03/25/12 at 17:59:24 You Double Build guys have been at it for a while! Yesterday I turned 3,500 miles on my Ryca. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 03/26/12 at 06:59:49 7740565E7D787676350 wrote:
Yeah, we shoulda been there too. We even got a fairly early start. I won't go into the reasons why, but the reality is that we are about 90% done and we're trying to finish them up now before it gets hot. Now I have this electrical problem. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 03/26/12 at 09:31:43 I found it. It was the jumper I had put in place of the sidestand relay. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by sbaugz on 03/26/12 at 18:59:18 7245535B787D7373300 wrote:
was just thinking the same thing |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/11/12 at 20:37:41 Two new items (four actually, two each) came in the mail today. A solid state flasher so the turn signals blink at a normal rate, and a blue LED to use as the high beam indicator. I wanted to have a blue high beam indicator in the stock headlight bucket, but there isn't much room between the headlight innards and the shell. I found these tiny and flat blue LED thingies that will take up almost no space at all inside the bucket. I already have them wired into the high beam wiring. They may be too bright. Here's a video showing turning the key to on, which then shows the flash rate, and the blue LED I'm holding. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KQD6EwL96s[/media] |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/12/12 at 13:06:08 Here's how we handled the sidestand switch. Put heat-shrink tubing over the two wires soldered together. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Sidestandbypass01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/12/12 at 13:26:06 I have a less than marvy trust in double-stick tape, so we are locating the ignition box as shown below. The piece of metal is just some scrap from the shop. The hole in the top lines up with the existing threaded hole, and the bottom is just a bolt and nut fit through a hole in the bottom of the battery box. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Ignboxholder02a.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Ignboxholder01a.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by wombat on 04/12/12 at 15:27:38 I too had no faith in holding the igniter in place with just tape. So I trimmed down the stock bracket that the rubber sleeve slides onto, pop riveted the modified bracket to the battery box, and slipped the sleeved igniter onto the bracket. Neat, clean and simple. 645A514C414C41230 wrote:
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/13/12 at 05:51:17 Decompression controller bypass jumper http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LS650decompcontrlrjumper01a.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Decompcntrlrbypass01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Cavi Mike on 04/13/12 at 06:25:13 Are you bypassing the solenoid because you're putting a lever on it? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/13/12 at 07:58:40 0123342B0F2B2927420 wrote:
Yes. The solenoid and controller have been removed, and the RYCA linkage has been installed. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhRTKQre5co[/media] update Nov 2012 -- quite a bit of fiddling is involved in getting that linkage to operate smoothly, not rattle, and to make sure the exhaust valve is allowed to fully close. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/13/12 at 19:02:08 no http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Instpwrsource01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by verslagen1 on 04/13/12 at 19:55:05 mating connector hp9L I think http://www.vintageconnections.com/ http://www.vintageconnections.com/images/Pc050042s.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/13/12 at 20:19:25 Fantastic site, Vers !!! What a find! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/13/12 at 20:43:50 We decided to bypass the clutch switch. It simplifies things and I know some DR650 guys who have had that switch come apart out in the boonies. This will require a safety step for starting the bike all the time now. I'll first push the bike forward or back a few inches just before hitting the starter to verify it is not in gear. Then look at the neutral light. Then pull in the clutch, step on the decompressor, and hit the starter. Here's the innards of the left switch assembly showing the wires soldered. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/clutchswbypasswiressoldered01.jpg Solder joint heat shrunk http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/clutchswbypassjointheatshrunk01.jpg Hole in the switch housing with a piece of scrap aluminum cut to fit. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/clutchswbypass_holepiece01.jpg Scrap piece glued in place. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/clutchswbypass_holefilled01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/15/12 at 14:02:15 The EMGO muffler as purchased by RYCA and sent to us in the kits is a strange little piece. It does have a perforated liner, and there is some fiberglass inside it, but about 20 minutes after you start it up that fiberglass will be history. It is about 1/10 the mass needed to do any good at all. If you like the sound of no fiberglass, you'll like the way the muffler sounds near the end of your first ride. Here's what it looks like disassembled as delivered by EMGO. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAEmgomufflerpack3Large-1.jpg A close pic showing the grossly inadequate packing. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAEmgomufflerpack2Large-1.jpg Here's some low-cast stainless steel packing. I've used this before in other motorcycle mufflers and it holds up as well as the expensive stuff labeled "muffler packing." It'll probably have to be replaced every five thousand miles or so. Not a big deal,.. $3 and a half-hour to replenish. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAmufflerrepack1Large.jpg Here's what it looks like ready to reassemble. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAmufflerrepack8Large.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by bikertrash on 04/20/12 at 21:20:00 160E0C030015610 wrote:
0C3239242924294B0 wrote:
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/21/12 at 12:26:25 Bikertrash, is there a question in there somewhere? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by bikertrash on 04/21/12 at 20:21:46 Yes--wombat referenced the Uni Clamp-on POD kit that fits the RYCA build--if you go to the website, there are 6 that are listed by ID, OD, and length--wanting to know which one fits the RYCA. That is my question, Sir Gyro-captain. ::) ::) ::) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/21/12 at 20:42:37 6C67656B7C7A7C6F7D660E0 wrote:
I am using the Filter that came with the kit. I modded a few things, though. I also was concerned about venting the crankcase fumes overboard, so I put together some autoparts to run the fumes to the air filter. The air filter/breather pics and text start on post #121 in this thread. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by bikertrash on 04/21/12 at 20:48:22 Yes. Saw yer mod. Read yer thread. I am asking Sir Wombat what filter he used (not just brand and type, but size). Mebbe I should PM Sir Wombat . . . |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/21/12 at 20:50:38 313A383621272132203B530 wrote:
Ah. I thought you were axing me. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by bikertrash on 04/21/12 at 21:05:23 Nice work, BTW, Sir Gyro. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/23/12 at 17:14:44 272C2E2037313724362D450 wrote:
Thanks. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/24/12 at 19:29:31 I had to spend about an hour today just carving out the side covers so they'd clear the shock mounts, the seat, and tuck in close enough to the frame to not look dorky. On the CS-1 I saw at Daytona a few weeks ago, you could see where the seat rubbed on the side covers as the rider moved around, gouging the paint,.. so,... it appears I'm going to not try to glue on the side covers so they snuggle up to the seat. I'm going to line it up so there is about 3/8" clearance. These kinds of things make it pretty absurd for anyone to say you can take an old S40, $3,000, and 40 hours and have a CS-1. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by wombat on 04/25/12 at 05:59:20 Go to unifilter.com, click on "clamp on pod filters," go down to the bottom of the list to "clamp on pod kits." They are listed by thier internal diameter (carb's outer diameter). I don't remember which one it is. They are 3" long but can be cut down if need be, and you get two for $40. Good luck 5C57555B4C4A4C5F4D563E0 wrote:
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Dave on 04/25/12 at 06:32:12 427C776A676A67050 wrote:
I have read most of the post and looked at most your pictures......and I see a lot of commonality between you and I. The modifications and level of detail in your build is above and beyond what is required to make the bike "functional". In doing projects we see a way to improve the "basic" approach......and strive to build the bike in a way we want "our" bikes to be built. I have no doubt that you can buy a cheap S40 and buy the RYCA kit and spend 40 hours rushing to get it together.....however that functional bike would not be the project bike we want to build. I thank you for posting the things you have done.......and it will help me know what to expect when I get my RYCA kit going next winter. I do believe the RYCA kits will be evolving as more are built. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/25/12 at 09:34:35 4E75786F7E72696F747C716E1D0 wrote:
I have read most of the post and looked at most your pictures......and I see a lot of commonality between you and I. The modifications and level of detail in your build is above and beyond what is required to make the bike "functional". In doing projects we see a way to improve the "basic" approach......and strive to build the bike in a way we want "our" bikes to be built. I have no doubt that you can buy a cheap S40 and buy the RYCA kit and spend 40 hours rushing to get it together.....however that functional bike would not be the project bike we want to build. I thank you for posting the things you have done.......and it will help me know what to expect when I get my RYCA kit going next winter. I do believe the RYCA kits will be evolving as more are built.[/quote] ----------------------------------------------------- I think it might be possible for Casey (with his experience of building 30 of these bikes and with a complete facility loaded up with the best tools for doing the mods) to slap together a CS-1 in 40 hours. Possible. I intend to ride this thing a bit. I may forego a cosmetic tweak here and there, but I have huge concerns about taking off on a trip and having something fall off or short out or get quiet, etc. Being stranded is not an exciting adventure for me. Been there, done that, way too many times. Getting stranded out in the middle of nowhere is what convinced me to never ever buy a BMW again. So,... I'll spend the extra time necessary to make sure of things like wiring not crammed into an area where the big single's vibrations won't wear through it,... or using some sort of "loosening prevention" on all the fasteners, etc. The things that annoy me are just assuming away niggling items like: -- no provision for crankcase fumes (a bother, true, but will get you ticketed in Atlanta) -- the horn is not used in the kit. Another safety and ticket item. All you have to do is move the horn forward enough to clear the tank, -- the side panels need to be carved to make them fit -- no front turn signals,.. samo samo, a safety and ticketing item -- etc. Overall the kit is cool, and I am really going to enjoy this. I would even have felt better if their pitch would have said something like: "This kit provides all the basic parts needed for the conversion. Builders will need tools and expertise to do final fitting, shaping, wiring, bodywork, and compliance with local regulations. A few additional parts are required." |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by singlesgoinsteady on 04/25/12 at 12:05:44 7E404B565B565B390 wrote:
The things that annoy me are just assuming away niggling items like: -- no provision for crankcase fumes (a bother, true, but will get you ticketed in Atlanta) -- the horn is not used in the kit. Another safety and ticket item. All you have to do is move the horn forward enough to clear the tank, and find another source of 12v for the instruments. -- the side panels need to be carved to make them fit -- no front turn signals,.. samo samo -- a safety and ticketing item -- etc. [/quote] AND THE LACING JOB ON THE REAR SPOKES!!!! >:( |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/25/12 at 13:32:35 singlegoinsteady: AND THE LACING JOB ON THE REAR SPOKES Yes,... that one will take a lot of effort or money to fix Jun 2013 update: I sent the wheel back to RYCA to have the holes ground larger so the spokes aren't bent. When I got them back, the spokes weren't bent anymore, but the holes in the rim were pretty crudely ground. It took a whole evening to tidy up the sharp metal shards still attached to the holes, and to true the wheel. All it cost was shipping from ATL to California. $65. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Dave on 04/26/12 at 05:32:09 704E4558555855370 wrote:
I have read through the 13 pages a couple of times looking for comments on the rear wheel and not found anything. What is the issue with the rear wheel lacing? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/26/12 at 06:20:52 69525F4859554E48535B56493A0 wrote:
I have read through the 13 pages a couple of times looking for comments on the rear wheel and not found anything. What is the issue with the rear wheel lacing?[/quote] I don't know if they still have the same vendor for rear wheels, but all the wheels provided to the first few hundred kits had the wrong wheel for the Savage hub. The spokes were bent as installed. They are still bent. RYCA offered to take the wheels back and fix them. All I had to do was pay for the shipping from ATL. I wish I would have done that now. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Wheellacingprob28Medium.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Wheellacingprob1Medium.jpg singlegoinsteady: AND THE LACING JOB ON THE REAR SPOKES Yes,... that one will take a lot of effort or money to fix Jun 2013 update: I sent the wheel back to RYCA to have the holes ground larger so the spokes aren't bent. When I got them back, the spokes weren't bent anymore, but the holes in the rim were pretty crudely ground. It took a whole evening to tidy up the sharp metal shards still attached to the holes, and to true the wheel. All it cost was shipping from ATL to California. $65. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Dave on 04/26/12 at 08:24:03 The RYCA website has the following statement on the page for the 18" wheel rim: [Note: If you're planning on lacing this rim to a stock Suzuki S40 / Savage rear wheel hub, the spoke holes must be drilled out slightly to accommodate the increased spoke angle of the Suzuki hub.] I guess your options are to send it back.....or take the wheel apart and fix the holes yourself. I don't believe I would ride the bike with the spokes that way. Spokes are supposed to be in tension - and not in any bending moment. I believe that the bent spokes will fatigue and crack over time. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by singlesgoinsteady on 04/26/12 at 08:32:09 I got my stuff from RYCA a week ago and my wheel has the crap lacing job. If any spokes end up cracking, I'll send it back. It is absolutely inconceivable to me that they sent me that wheel, knowing there is a problem with it. I don't know if they follow this forum much, but, I would think that they would not like the bad press that brings. Send me something, then offer to have me send it back,and wait for another 4 weeks, to fix what they knowingly sent me in the first place? Otherwise, I think the kit is ace. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Datamichael on 04/26/12 at 15:12:55 544E49404B425440484E4954534246435E270 wrote:
Interesting. I emailed Ryca today. They responded with a terse reply stating it's no longer a problem: "Hi, I am considering buying the kit. However, I've been reading about a safety problem concerning the rear wheel. You'll want to check out the thread located here: "thread location omitted" As someone who has built many wheels for bikes and motorcycles, the wheel pictured in that thread (and shown below hopefully) is a definite safety issue and will eventually fail. Is this the way you're currently building these wheels? Thanks Ryca reply: Nope its been fixed" Doesn't exactly give one a warm and fuzzy feeling. Michael |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by caseyLA on 04/26/12 at 18:57:17 Regarding the rear wheels: In the beginning, there were wheels sent out with unacceptable spoke angles, and we offered to fix or replace those wheels for every customer who wasn't happy with the lacing job. The offer still stands...we want everyone to be satisfied with their kit. We don't send out wheels that we don't think are laced within acceptable limits of the hub/wheel combination we have to work with. We tested a few different rims, spokes, and vendors for the rear hub lacing. The wheel on my CS-1 prototype was laced by the best spoke and rim company in the business (over 50 years experience), using a smaller gauge spoke and an expensive Akront 18" rim. It was signed off and returned, with all specs checked off, including "nipple to spoke alignment". I installed the wheel and have used it since I built the first CS-1. It's within what I consider acceptable limits for my bike, even though some of the spokes are not absolutely perfect (see below). http://rycamotors.com/newsite_images/spokes.jpg http://rycamotors.com/newsite_images/spokes2.jpg For existing customers, if you feel that your wheel isn't within acceptable limits, please contact us and we'll work out a solution. For future customers, please note that the rear wheel is optional. You can also purchase the spoke and nipple set and lace your own rim. Thanks, Casey Ryca Motors |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by sbaugz on 04/26/12 at 19:02:24 2E2C3E2834010C4D0 wrote:
thanks for clarifying Casey. Who laced that rim- Buchanon? Mine looks just like it with a slight bend. Up till now I really haven't been concerned. Will think about whether I want to bother sending it back for correcting or not. Appreciate your willingness to correct this matter for your customers. Seems like you guys take some flack on this forum from time to time and its nice to hear your comments and response directly instead of the hearsay and for the love of pete, gyrobob, can you please finish these bikes sometime in my lifetime? Anxious to see them done. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by T2 on 04/26/12 at 20:04:34 Casey, here is my problem with this issue and your response: You wrote - "In the beginning, there were wheels sent out with unacceptable spoke angles..." Then you wrote - "We don't send out wheels that we don't think are laced within acceptable limits of the hub/wheel combination we have to work with." So...some bad ones were sent out, but you didn't send out any bad ones? I purchased an early kit...where do I fall in the unacceptable spoke angles that were sent out and the We don't send out wheels that we don't think are laced within acceptable limits? Both you and Ryan are aware of the FUBAR gas tank that I sent you. My level of expertise is pretty low on the totem pole...but I need to know if my rear wheel is one of the unacceptable versions or one of the acceptable versions. I'm guessing that I may not be the only one with this question. Thanks, Terry |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by verslagen1 on 04/26/12 at 20:09:56 Gyr... if you want the crappity smackers lining up to give casey what for moved to a different thread, just say so. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by bikertrash on 04/27/12 at 06:33:02 [quote author=5941434C4F5A2E0 link=1304722902/165#176 date=1335358760]Go to unifilter.com, click on "clamp on pod filters," go down to the bottom of the list to "clamp on pod kits." They are listed by thier internal diameter (carb's outer diameter). I don't remember which one it is. They are 3" long but can be cut down if need be, and you get two for $40. Good luck Thanks, Sir Wombat! ;D ;D ;D |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by bikertrash on 04/27/12 at 06:41:14 2719120F020F02600 wrote:
I have read most of the post and looked at most your pictures......and I see a lot of commonality between you and I. The modifications and level of detail in your build is above and beyond what is required to make the bike "functional". In doing projects we see a way to improve the "basic" approach......and strive to build the bike in a way we want "our" bikes to be built. I have no doubt that you can buy a cheap S40 and buy the RYCA kit and spend 40 hours rushing to get it together.....however that functional bike would not be the project bike we want to build. I thank you for posting the things you have done.......and it will help me know what to expect when I get my RYCA kit going next winter. I do believe the RYCA kits will be evolving as more are built.[/quote] I think it might be possible for Casey (with his experience of building 30 of these bikes and with a complete facility loaded up with the best tools for doing the mods) to slap together a CS-1 in 40 hours. Possible. I intend to ride this thing a bit. I may forego a cosmetic tweak here and there, but I have huge concerns about taking off on a trip and having something fall off or short out or get quiet, etc. Being stranded is not an exciting adventure for me. Been there, done that, way too many times. Getting stranded out in the middle of nowhere is what convinced me to never ever buy a BMW again. So,... I'll spend the extra time necessary to make sure of things like wiring not crammed into an area where the big single's vibrations won't wear through it,... or using some sort of "loosening prevention" on all the fasteners, etc. The things that annoy me are just assuming away niggling items like: -- no provision for crankcase fumes (a bother, true, but will get you ticketed in Atlanta) -- the horn is not used in the kit. Another safety and ticket item. All you have to do is move the horn forward enough to clear the tank, and find another source of 12v for the instruments. -- the side panels need to be carved to make them fit -- no front turn signals,.. samo samo -- a safety and ticketing item -- etc. Overall the kit is cool, and I am really going to enjoy this. I would even have felt better if their pitch would have said something like: "This kit provides all the basic parts needed for the conversion. Builders will need tools and expertise to do final fitting, shaping, wiring, bodywork, and compliance with local regulations. Few addtional parts are required."[/quote] I agree--however, had I been completely aware of what I was getting into, I might not have taken the leap to begin with! ;D |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by caseyLA on 04/27/12 at 12:00:43 58495E5E551E191D2C0 wrote:
Terry, SOME of the early rims were not drilled out enough, combined with larger nipples, which resulted in the spoke angles in the photos referenced in this thread. Please contact us and we'll take a look (send us some photos if you can). Thanks |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by T2 on 04/27/12 at 15:21:18 Quote:
Casey, Will do and thanks for the quick reply. Terry+ |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/27/12 at 20:50:28 544750514E4345474C13220 wrote:
It does seem sensible to move this issue to a separate thread,.. since it does seem to be focusing on RYCA-supplied wheels, rather than the Double-RYCA build. Thanks. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 04/27/12 at 20:58:55 I want to repeat again here that I am not all wadded up over the "issues" with the RYCA kits. The kits are overall put together pretty well, and the videos and other support material are helpful,... AND.... I am going to get a big kick out of riding around on this thing. Ryan and Casey did a reasonably well-executed effort for their first time out, blazing a trail through the many unknowns of manufacturing a kit like this. I'm sure if they had it to do over again, they'd line up things a bit differently, and there would be less griping. Maybe the scrambler effort will prove me right. Anyway, I just didn't want the rest of you folks to think I am a pissed off RYCA-builder. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by SuperSavage on 04/27/12 at 21:00:11 darn, eat your Wheaties and get er done! JK, but I hope you get to enjoy them soon... |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/27/12 at 22:05:36 615F5449444944260 wrote:
Heck, Man, everybody knows you arent upset over the Ryca thing, you dont have Time to be upset over that, youre waaaay too upset over wheat to waste any emotion on anything else.. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by bikertrash on 05/01/12 at 19:58:18 714F4459545954360 wrote:
I have run into a few issues on my build, but I have found Ryan to be very helpful--I have spoken to him by phone, and if I email him a question, he gets back to me the next day at the latest. They even sent me a fastner free of charge that I had ruined and had trouble locating locally. I have side panels, the tail light, and license plate to mount on mine and it will be complete. Last Sunday, I snuck it out on its first test ride, even though it was not quite street legal. I have to tell you, it was more fun than a barrel of monkeys! I had a buddy stop by a week ago that could not believe that I built a custom bike for under 4k. I very much look forward to riding this bike and telling folks that my son and I built it. Count me as a ryca fan! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af331/sjosup1/ryca%20build/DSCN9346.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/09/12 at 20:42:02 Here's the latest obstacle overcome. Anyone want to guess what this part does? http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/ryca028a.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/ryca029.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Cavi Mike on 05/09/12 at 21:05:32 That's actually a part and not something you just fabbed up? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/10/12 at 06:19:30 587A6D725672707E1B0 wrote:
Both. I fabbed it up, and it is now a part. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by BuckRYCA on 05/10/12 at 06:38:53 I'll make a guess -- Are you making a hand-operated decompression actuator? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/10/12 at 08:05:39 4C7B6D6546434D4D0E0 wrote:
No,.. but that is a good guess because it does look sorta like that and I have considered doing that very thing. I think it would be cool to get rid of all the vulnerable and funny looking decomp levers/linkages, and move the starter switch down near the decompression lever on the cylinder head. That way you could start and decompress with one hand. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Datamichael on 05/10/12 at 12:27:14 053B302D202D20420 wrote:
No,.. but that is a good guess because it does look sorta like that and I have considered doing that very thing. I think it would be cool to get rid of all the vulnerable and funny looking decomp levers/linkages, and move the starter switch down near the decompression lever on the cylinder head. That way you could start and decompress with one hand.[/quote] I can't find the thread right now, but didn't someone on here figure out a way to use the Ryca modified tank with the stock auto-decompression system? I seem to remember they just used a hammer to make room for it under the tank. Michael |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/10/12 at 13:51:54 Okay,... drum roll please,.................................... the part is,......... lower coil mount The way RYCA sets it up, the coil rubs on the tank. I rotated the coil 90degrees and made new mounts for it so it is tucked in closer. Now the tank and the coil have about 1/8" clearance. The upper mount is just a piece of steel bent to an angle with two holes drilled in it. You can buy something like this at Home Depot. The new part for the bottom mount screws into the existing threaded tab. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/coilmount4.jpg Here you can see how the coil tucks in closer to the frame. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/coilmount5.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Savage 1987 on 05/10/12 at 18:02:00 That is a nice little part you fabricated. You are quite the perfectionist and I can't wait to see the finished product. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 05/10/12 at 20:04:35 2F3F3D2E2C3D6D6C6E6C5C0 wrote:
Thanks, Savage1987,.... I have been accused of being a perfectionist a lot. I don't mind it much. I don't, however, see correcting a glaring error being a perfectionist. I just couldn't stand the thought of the ignition coil rubbing on the tank. -- This is a high-vibration motorcycle. It is NOT right to have a couple of extremely important pieces rubbing together. -- Eventually the coil could break, stranding the rider out in the boonies, or worse yet, having the motor suddenly die during a footpeg-sparking turn on the Dragon's Tail. -- What if a hole rubbed into the tank? How pleased would you be riding along, suddenly noticing the smell of gas,.. and then turning into a two-wheeled roman candle? I'll admit, sometimes I take a lot of time fooling around with tweaking things that aren't all that critical, but some stuff just demands attention. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by singlesgoinsteady on 07/24/12 at 08:02:48 I couldn't get the coil to fit under my tank, had to mount it forward on the frame. No clearance. >:( |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 07/25/12 at 06:46:59 Quote:
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Instpwrsource01.jpg This was a stupid idea. This plug is NOT unused. It is still used for the indicator lights on the ignition switch panel. I ran those wires to a plug I fabricated that fits into the unused instrument light bulb socket. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 07/25/12 at 06:54:16 2C363138333A2C383036312C2B3A3E3B265F0 wrote:
See the posts 199 and 205 above. I had the same problem, so I rotated the coil 90 degrees and tucked it in closer to the frame. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 08/30/12 at 19:17:43 When I started to install the tanks, I noticed a lot of rust. There was some rust inside when the tanks came back from Ryca last year, but now there was a LOT. So, I made a block-off plate for the petcock hole. I poured in half a bottle of that stinky pink rust remover, and a cup of water, then chucked in 20 small bolts. I agitated each tank for an hour or so, hoping the rust remover would dissolve the rust and the bolts rattling around would do some scraping of sorts. Arms get rather tired doing this. From the little bit I could see, it got rid of a lot of the rust. I dumped out the rust remover, shook out the bolts, and flushed the tank with water three times. Then, after getting out as much water as possible, I dumped in a half bottle of alcohol (80 cents a bottle at Walmart), and shook it around to combine with all the remaining water, to make sure it rusted as little as possible for the next few days while the bikes are finished up. After an hour or so for the alchohol to dry up, I shot in a few tbsp of WD-40 to further protect the inside and sloshed that around some, to coat the inside. I can't stand rust, so I wanted to do whatever I could do coat the surfaces with some oil that displaces water and tends to make it hard for rust to form. Hopefully those tanks will have some gas in them within the next few days. UPDATE: 3 Mar 2019. Both our tanks have a lot of rust. The fuel filters are clogged and Jud's carb was so trashed he installed a Mikuni VM38-9. Make sure when you get the tank from RYCA you derust thoroughly. Operate the bike with clean gas often, and use one of the alcohol-based water removers in the tank occasionally. Consider coating the tank with a tank sealer inside. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Cavi Mike on 08/30/12 at 22:40:14 WD-40 evaporates and it's about as good as water to use as protection from rust. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 08/31/12 at 05:16:58 5775627D597D7F71140 wrote:
It evaporates slowly. I did this last week and both tanks are still wet, with a small puddle of the stuff at the low point. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Dave on 08/31/12 at 08:27:30 I would consider using a tank lining. We didn't use to have a problem, but modern fuels do tend to allow for rust.....and I would prefer to take preventative action. Even if it is not the fuel....just moist air and condensation can rust a tank....as you have found out. The POR 15 fuel tank lining works very well, and the silver color is great because it looks normal and doesn't look obnoxious like the white coatings. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 08/31/12 at 08:53:44 72494453424E555348404D52210 wrote:
Yes. Modern fuels can have more moisture, which leads to rust. That is one reason I pour in a bit of alcohol periodically. If I have some on hand, I'll use Drygas, or Heet, or Valvoline's Water Remover. Those items are mostly alcohol anyway. They can be bought at typical auto stores like Autozone. I've never used a coating like that. If I build a fiberglass tank, I wonder if I could coat the inside of it to keep the ethanol in today's gas from attacking the fiberglass resin. UPDATE 3 Mar 2019 ............. GOOD IDEA!!! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 08/31/12 at 12:50:50 Bill, how about deleting those posts? Two of them are not necessary, and neither of them have anything to do with a Double Ryca build. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 08/31/12 at 17:22:59 Well,... one of the Double RYCA Build bikes is running. We decided to put them together and operate them for a bit before doing the final paint. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by teabowl13 on 08/31/12 at 18:26:43 WOO HOOOO!! Well I for one am sure glad to see you guys have one running. I wish I was not too far behind you, but I too have a long way to go... hopefully help is on the way for me this weekend... Good luck!! And ride it like ya stole it! (Oh, and yes, I'm pretty sure the Por15 will work with a fiberglass tank. I've never had to use it myself, but it's definitely the one I see recommended the most.) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/06/12 at 20:40:49 Check this out!!! [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y68foFpuVlY&feature=plcp[/media] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1PGfOGVxcE&feature=plcp[/media] |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by ToesNose on 09/07/12 at 03:51:59 Very cool, must have felt great to finally get out on it! :) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by teabowl13 on 09/07/12 at 07:29:38 CONGRATULATIONS!! Hopefully I'll be doing the same myself in a few weeks... |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/08/12 at 06:25:58 I have about 30 mi on the thing now. This morning I had to dodge a cager turning in front of me and drove over a manhole cover about 3" below the level of the asphalt, bottoming out the rear suspension. This caused the license plate to hit the rear tire and bend down the whole tail light assembly. I thought there was enough clearance. nupe. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by bobert on 09/08/12 at 07:32:34 Glad you're on the road and I hope you enjoy it. I can hear the blat of that Emgo muffler. Those things are loud. I had one on my non-Ryca Savage. Stuffed it full of packing, which didn't take long to blow out. It had a good sound, but it was just too loud. After about an hour of riding, it became obnoxious to me as the rider, especially at highway speeds. I went back to my Sportster muffler, with its strategically-placed 1/2 inch hole in the baffle plate. Just a little louder than a stock Sporty muffler. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/08/12 at 10:50:39 I'm undoing the damaged parts from the license plate hitting the tire and it appears that black quicksetting glue that came with the kit sticks about as well as electrical tape. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/08/12 at 10:54:28 4C414C4B5C5A2E0 wrote:
Yes, the muffler is loudy loud loud. I'm going to add the crumb cup and see if that makes any diff in the noise without adding too much backpressure. If that doesn't work, I may put back on the Jardine the previous owner had installed. It doesn't look as cool as a pseudo-megaphone, but it is a bit quieter. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by BuckRYCA on 09/09/12 at 06:33:01 Yes, Gyrobob, the kit supplied EMGO muffler is loud, no doubt, even with earplugs it's too much. I get a lot of negative reaction, mostly from pedestrians so you know it's making noise. I've done the crumb cup mod (helps some) and re-packing (helps less). I would like to mount a more refined muffler (making about the same noise as a Sporty muffler), but the kit eliminates the stock exhaust bracket which limits the possibilities. My next idea is to add a second crumb cup at the baffle inlet. So, I'll have one at the baffle inlet and one at the baffle outlet. Has anyone found a quieter replacement that will work on the Ryca? I tried to fit a Supertrapp megaphone, but found that is would be marginal given the weight and length (you just got that strap running from the rearsets to the rail mount to work with) and interference with the rear brake actuating rod. Maybe the shorter Supertrapp Ryca shows on their Street Tracker photos would work? Again, looks too fat for the rod clearance. But how noisy is it? Also, as did yours, my license plate/taillight fell off after about a year. The glue is not up to the task (lots of vibration). Plate took a beating. Ryca sent me a replacement tailight/license plate bracket assembly (which was a nice thing to do) that I bolted to the top side of the rear fender. Not as cool, but it will not come off again and appears to be more visible. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/13/12 at 09:53:30 Here are some findings after burning up the first tank of gas. Duplicolor paint is hurt by gasoline. -- Based on some techniques I read about in various threads, apparently clear engine paint works pretty well. So I bought a can. UPDATE: Didn't work. There are NO single ingredient paints that can withstand gasoline. No rattle cans, IOW. -- I’ll do the side panels with the green paint (Corvette DBGM), then a couple coats of clear engine, then rub it out a bit, and put some gas on it and see what happens. -- If that doesn’t work, I’m scrapping the dupli-color. -- Another option would be to use the existing blue and green we have now, lightly wetsand with 2000 grit, then have a shop shoot it with gasproof alcoholproof clear gloss. -- I wonder what a matte clear coat would look like over metallic paint? I think it would look goofy, but I have never seen anything like that, so how could I know? The license plate set up is modded and works really well. No chance now of the tire crumpling anything. Pics later. The RYCA speedo is about 5% pessimistic, based on gps numbers. When the GPS says 63, the speedo says 60. I have a 4.00-18 Avon Speedmaster rear tire. The turn signal and neutral indicators are worthless. You have to look so far down to see them it is not worth it. I never used a neutral indicator anyway, and the bar end signals I'm using are much more in view than those dinky lights down around your navel. The gauges are mostly useless at night as well. They are lit, but the needles are really hard to see. I got 64 miles on the first tank until I had to switch to reserve. I don't know yet what the top speed is, but at 75 it is not accelerating very well. Although riding around on this thing is a hoot, it is a bit of an adjustment compared to the FJR's nuclear rush (140hp). I am really trying to learn to like these handlebars,... but it is hard. I may well switch to a European style bar that would still be much lower than stock, but maybe a couple inches higher and further back. A couple of times I hit a pretty good bump at slow speeds while I had a lot of weight on the bars and about broke my neck from whiplash. (I have a 65 y.o. neck) This situation is made worse by the upgraded front fork springs I got from RYCA,... perty stiff. I wonder if lighter weight fork fluid would help any? I used ATF when I set it up,... that stuff is approx 10w. This thing is loud. Maybe the crumb cup mod is the answer. I taped on a gps today, and drove a route I created on yahoomaps that had a lot of turns in it. Only about 19 miles, but it was a blast just being out on a 75 degree day like this boppin’ around. I think about an hour in the saddle on this thing is the absolute max,.. and that doesn’t mean an hour of straight traveling,.. I had a gas stop, a couple of engine-running stops just to diddle with the gps, a stop for a train, etc. I’d be a quivering gelatinous mass after an hour on I-85. It doesn't shift very smoothly. Accelerating it works well, but when slowing to a stop, holding in the clutch, and trying to quickly do 4-3-2-1, it hangs up occasionally, requiring some burping with the clutch to get things shifting again. The taillight and brake light are pathetic. I feel unsafe with anyone behind me, especially at night. I'm pondering some enhancements there that will add some visual impact, but not dork up the back of the bike. The blue LED I put in the top of the headlight shell as a high-beam indicator is WAAAAAAAAAYYY too bright, even with two layers of blue masking tape over it. More tweaking required there. The compartment I made in the tailpiece is working well, holding the stock toolkit with no problems. Pics later. This thing is even funner than I thought it would be, and part of the fun is discovering all its quirks. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by BuckRYCA on 09/13/12 at 12:02:22 This is a follow-up to my previous post here about the loudness of the Ryca kit muffler (it's an EMGO Shorty Reverse Cone Megaphone, 17"). I took the thing off the other day to discover that the muffler packing was almost all gone (5K miles since the last re-pack). Before re-packing it again I fit a second 1.5" crumb cup to the inlet of the baffle. I used two of the reducer pieces supplied with the muffler to make a reasonably tight fit and tack welded it into position. So, I have one crumb cup at the inlet and another at the outlet. EMGO fits a perforated disc inside the baffle about 2/3s of the way back. So, the exhaust gases must pass through three perforated discs in the baffle core. I wrapped the baffle in FMF dirt bike fiberglass, wired it tight, and stuffed and malleted it back into the muffler body. Re-fitted the muffler to the bike, waited an hour for the sealant to set, and fired it up. -- Much better, almost civilized. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/13/12 at 12:45:07 6E594F4764616F6F2C0 wrote:
I see two problem areas. Maybe you can dispel either or both. -- Three crumb cups, so to speak, might be adding a lot of back pressure. -- With the last crumb cup right at the outlet, sometimes that makes for a blatty shallow sound, rather than the preferred deeper tone of the the last restriction having a foot or so of straight pipe between it and the outlet. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/14/12 at 06:12:30 Discovered another problem. My precious Avon Speedmaster has been rubbing on the swingarm two inches left of the center of the tire where one of the RYCA welds done to carve out the swingarm has a small raised metal bubble. When I adjusted the belt, I got the tire to where it looked like it cleared the swingarm up front by about 1/8" or so. Apparently things flex enough while riding around to cause the tire to hit that bump. Very annoying. Now I'll have to take the tire/wheel off and grind down that protrusion. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Cavi Mike on 09/14/12 at 07:14:43 More likely the tire expanding at speed than anything flexing. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/14/12 at 07:46:37 7C5E49567256545A3F0 wrote:
Sounds like a valid thought. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Cavi Mike on 09/14/12 at 09:00:41 1/8" isn't much. Even if the radial belts hold true, I doubt the soft rubber of a motorbike tire will. You can stick your fingernail into a motorbike tire and it will leave an imprint - that's pretty soft - it's sure to expand at speed. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/14/12 at 10:08:57 7C5E49567256545A3F0 wrote:
The bike is disassembled. I am in the process of carving out another 1/16" in the swingarm, and leveling the beads. This will require some welding and/or brazing. Annoying. --------------------- added 15 Sep ------> Swingarm is carved, patch brazed in from the inside of the swingarm, ground down smooth, primed, painted, drying. Should be back on the road tomorrow. Looks to be 1/8" more clearance. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Boule’tard on 09/14/12 at 20:20:36 Congratulations Gyro, I am sure you will sort out the bugs and have yourself a sweet ride there. 695E4840636668682B0 wrote:
At about the 2nd or 3rd crumb cup install, I'd be thinking used sportbike can. GSXR1000s come with a nice, lightweight brushed aluminum can which is quickly taken off the new bike and shelved for something aftermarket. I'd just pick one up on CL or somewhere, take it to a muffler shop and see if they can adapt it. I have one on my DR650 and it braaaAAPs awesomely without being annoying at all. The back pressure/flow rate/volume level/etc. of a stock 1000cc sportbike muffler works out well on an uncorked 650cc thumper. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by cafecarl on 09/15/12 at 18:33:32 I know the super trapp is quite loud but I was wondering what they sound like with all the disks installed? Too pricey to buy and then find out your not happy with it. I was hoping someone would chime in that's had experiance with one. Great thread Gyrobob. I'm gaining a lot of insight following along, thanks and I'll be looking for the pics on the mods you've come up with. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/16/12 at 07:12:20 Here's what was involved in getting another 1/10" clearance on the tire. This shows where the tire was rubbing on the swingarm. It was rubbing on the swingarm metal itself, but making things worse were the MIG weld beads digging into the tire. It turns out those beads didn't have much penetration,.. they were just laying on the outer surface of the swingarm. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/swingarm01.jpg This is after the grinder did its work. That gaping hole on the left was what remained after the MIG weld bead was leveled. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/swingarm02.jpg This is the plug for the gaping hole. The skinny edges fit on the inside, to get brazed to the thin metal on each side of the hole. The braze rod is brazed to the plug so it can pull on the plug to keep it aligned with the gaping hole. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/swingarm03.jpg Here is the plug inserted in the gaping hole with the bungee cord pulling on the braze rod to pull the plug up against the inside edges of the hole. The plug and the hole have been coated with brazing material. The whole mess is ready to be heated up and melted together. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/swingarm04.jpg Everything melted together, with a lot of brazing rod laid on the outer surface ready to be ground down. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/swingarm05.jpg All of it ground down to level. The edges of the plug are brazed to the inner side of the swingarm. No more MIG weld bead to dig in to the tire. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/swingarm06.jpg Two coats of primer. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/swingarm07.jpg Two coats of rustoleum engine gloss black. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/swingarm08.jpg Left side clearance. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/swingarm09.jpg Right side clearance. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/swingarm10.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/16/12 at 13:03:13 On the second test ride, I hit a bump that bottomed out front and rear, and caused the rear tire to hit the license plate, driving the license plate holder high enough to gouge the tailpiece. So, I modified the license plate holder by cutting out a lot of it in the center, shaped to fit the profile of the tire. I also mounted the license plate to the holder with 4mm screws inside a rubber tube, inside grommets and rubber washers so the license plate could flex upwards when hit by the rear tire. I also curved the bottom of the plate to get a little more clearance and to make it slide easier when in contact with the tire. I used T-88 aircraft epoxy this time, instead of the quick setting black RYCA stuff. The T-88 has a much longer working time, takes a couple hours to get firm, is usable in about 10 hours, and then gets tougher for another couple days. It never does get brittle. This pic is of the taillight bracket part glued into the tailpiece with an additional brace riveted to the RYCA part. I wanted the extra strength because of the compartment for the toolkit I added there. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/licnsplt1.jpg This shows a layer of fiberglass soaked in T-88 laid over the taillight bracket. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/licnsplt3.jpg Here's how I hogged out the license plate holder for additional clearance for the tire. I filled in the slots and holes that weren't needed for the Georgia license plate. The three holes in the middle are for the hinge used for the tailpiece storage compartment. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/licnsplt2.jpg On each side is a 4mm screw with a short length of tubing around it. Around THAT, are grommets and rubber washers so when it is all bolted together, the license plate can flex up and down quite a bit. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/licnsplt4.jpg Final assembly. Two views. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/licnsplt5.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/licnsplt07.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/16/12 at 14:16:18 I didn't like the way the exhaust system was mounted only at two points. My previous experience with "two point mounting" caused the gasket between the cylinder head and header to go to pieces way too often. So, wanted to add another mounting point. I noticed there was an unused threaded tab on the frame right near the muffler clamps. I formed a 1" x 3" piece of 3/32" thick metal into what resembles a crookedly bent angle bracket. It bolts to that threaded tab and to the muffler clamp bolt. The exhaust system seems more secure now. Here's the "crooked" angle. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/MuflBrkt12a.jpg Here 'tis installed. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/MuflBrkt4a.jpg Bottom view. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/MuflBrkt11a.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Cavi Mike on 09/17/12 at 03:07:58 Two points? I take it the RYCA kit ditches the factory bracket then? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by ToesNose on 09/17/12 at 04:34:03 It's coming together nicely Gyrobob, thanks for showing all the little details your putting on the finishing touches :) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/17/12 at 05:01:10 684A5D426642404E2B0 wrote:
The RYCA kit attaches the exhaust at the cylinder head, and at the EMGO bracket (about 6" long) on the muffler. BTW, that muffler is pretty loud at first, and gets way louder when the pathetic amount of packing gets blown out. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/17/12 at 05:02:17 1B202A3C01203C2A4F0 wrote:
Thanks for the comment. I'm beginning to think this could be a lifetime project. I wonder if I'll ever get to the point of thinking, "All done!" |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by BuckRYCA on 09/17/12 at 07:02:43 Quote:
I don't believe I've gone overboard on restricting the Ryca EMGO with two crumb cups. It's been reported here that the BCB (Blue Collar Bobbers) drag pipe has four restriction rings welded into it. Unmodified the EMGO is close to a straight pipe. The crumb cups are light, cheap, and effective -- my Ryca is running well and getting good mileage, too. Anyways, the point of the Ryca is the look, and part of the look is the reverse cone megaphone. A sportsbike can would be out of place on it (IMHO). |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/17/12 at 08:33:28 "A sportsbike can would be out of place on it (IMHO). " IMHO2 |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/18/12 at 06:53:26 I already posted this in the RYCA belt adjustment thread, but it relates directly to the swingarm mod I just did. RYCA CS-1 belt adjustment procedure This procedure will adjust for the max tire/swingarm clearance without overtightening the belt, which is an important issue when the RYCA modified swingarms are used with larger diameter (4.00-18) tires. 1. Get the rear wheel into the air using a jack of some sort. 2. Undo the tops of the shocks, and tilt them out of the way. 3. Lower the bike carefully until the distance between the centers of the shock mounting points is 11 inches (or whatever the distance is for max compression of your shocks). 4. Loosen the axle just enough so you can move it fore and aft using the belt adjuster bolts. If you loosen it too much, when retightened, the swingarm gets a tiny bit longer, making the belt tighter. 5. Allow the axle to move forward a little (~ 1/16") to a loose belt position. Final movement of the axle should be from a forward position moving aft using the belt adjuster bolts. 6. Adjust the axle so the belt is moderately tight. -- The belt should be just tight enough to permit twisting it 45 degrees. -- Make sure the pulley is aligned with the belt by placing a straight-edge along side the pulley to verify it is parallel with the edge of the belt. 7. Tighten the axle back up and, with the shock mounting points still at 11 inches, recheck the belt tightness. It should be fairly tight (45 degree twist), but not rigid. 8. Without turning the belt adjuster bolts, tighten the belt adjuster nuts. 9. Check the clearance of the tire and swingarm. 10. Jack the bike up to where the distance between the shock mounting points is 13 inches (or whatever the distance is for max extension of your shocks). 11. Re-install the shocks. 12. Lower the bike and ride away. 13. After the first ride, recheck the adjustment to make sure nothing moved. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/20/12 at 09:53:30 Instead of using a little crumb cup, I used what I had on hand,.. an old sink strainer. My rationale is that it might be less restrictive than a crumb cup, especially after I drilled some more holes in it. Also, it has more surface area to make a bit of a "volume" at the end of the pipe, but inside the reverse megaphone tip. Besides, I didn't HAVE a crumb cup! This shows the modified sink strainer, with some additional holes, and with the original holes opened up a bit. Also, each hole had a counter-sunk type of edge (appearing as a raised edge in this pic) I put on it using a homemade die and a socket from a 3/8" drive socket set. This countersinking stiffened up the surface a lot,.. it eliminated the "oil-canning" effect. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Sinkstrnrmod2a_zps65a3cf13.jpg Here's the sink strainer with the rewrapped inner pipe and the tip. The fiberglass that came with the muffler was completely gone at about 25 miles. The packing is just stainless steel scrubbing pads from Walmart. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Sinkstrnrmod3a_zps4a7afdaa.jpg Sink strainer brazed to inner pipe in three places. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Sinkstrnrmod10a_zps8802dbe1.jpg After a 30 mile ride this morning. It has turned brown,.. I'm guessing because it is stainless steel and it got pretty hot. The noise didn't change much,.. some of the trebly bark was softened a bit, so I think the neighbors might be a tad less incensed.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Sinkstrnrmod17a_zpsb113cc5d.jpg update 15 October: brazing it in three locations only lasted about 50 miles. It came loose and made the cutest jingle-jangle noises as it was trapped in the aft end of the muffler with the exhaust pulses pounding away at it. Now for plan B,... but I'll have to create a plan B so I can implement it. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/22/12 at 13:54:41 I used the space in the tailpiece for storage of the toolkit, manual, registration, insurance card. It is not real easy to get to, but I don't have to get to that stuff very often. It takes maybe a minute to get at the stuff hidden in there. I have to unscrew three nuts, flop down a hinge, and drop the sheet of aluminum that serves as the floor of the compartment. This shows the aluminum strap riveted in place to serve as a forward lip for the aluminum floor to rest on.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/tailpiecebox01_zps1b3e60f3.jpg This shows the floor installed. The forward edge of the floor is resting on the riveted aluminum strap. The hinge in the rear is being held against the floor with three screws/nuts which are safetied by safety pins. Also in this pic you can see how the license plate bracket was carved out so as to not foul on the tire, and how the license plate, when it hits the tire, is just pushed up and falls back down.http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/tailpiecebox02_zpsdcfd8024.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by T2 on 09/22/12 at 19:59:03 Gyrobob - you have a PM. Terry |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Cavi Mike on 10/05/12 at 22:26:10 http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843986-T800600.jpg I really like that breather idea but what about oil spraying into your carb? Have you put any serious mileage on this bike? I'd like to know how this turned out, I want to do something like this as well. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 10/06/12 at 04:34:44 Cavi Mike said, "I really like that breather idea but what about oil spraying into your carb? Have you put any serious mileage on this bike? I'd like to know how this turned out, I want to do something like this as well. " As far as I can tell, all that is going into to carb, at the 200 mile point, is some occasional blowby. -- There is no oil present in the tube or angle or air filter. -- The carb has no discoloring that might indicate oily fumes, etc. Maybe a motor with 20,000 miles on it, loose rings, and a lot of blowby might be a different story, but even then, all that is happening is that more crankcase fumes are sent to the intake side,.. which is what happens in the stock setup. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by braveteacher on 10/07/12 at 15:04:46 Gyrobob, What kind of solid state flasher did you purchase and where did you order it from? I put led's on mine and have tried two different types of electronic flashers from Autozone...one did not work at all...the other flashes but not very bright... " Two new items (four actually, two each) came in the mail today. A solid state flasher so the turn signals blink at a normal rate, and a blue LED to use as the high beam indicator. " |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by verslagen1 on 10/07/12 at 15:15:43 brightness is a function of the bulb, not the flasher. try it with regular bulbs. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by braveteacher on 10/07/12 at 15:17:28 No...not the bulb...it does not flash...very little flash...not off and on like in the video from the double ryca build... |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 10/07/12 at 20:42:52 6474677063726367656E6374060 wrote:
Here's the one I used. It works really well on both bikes, each of which have a different mix of incandescent and LED signals. http://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/lf1-s%20flat/ |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 10/12/12 at 07:55:49 Here's a set of three 12v size N jacks installed on the forward right side of the frame. I have spent so much time getting this bike on the road, I don't want to have to be restricted in cold weather, so these ports will allow an electric jacket and maybe gloves if I don't use heated hand grips. I'll also use one of the ports for a GPS. -- One of the things I like to do is to head out into the country getting to areas I have never seen before, trying to get "lost." Then I have a look at the GPS and have it rescue me to find my way home. -- Another GPS trick I like to do is set up a windy twisty route in mapquest or yahoomaps, then put that route in the GPS and just follow it through all the turns. I got the power for the ports from the now-unused socket for the decompression solenoid. It uses the fuse otherwise unused in the RYCA conversion. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/powerports01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 10/13/12 at 19:29:53 I was not impressed with brightness of the tail light assembly in the RYCA kit. -- The turn signals were just barely visible in daylight and situated too close to the centerline of the bike. So, I use bar end signals. They work really well,.. and they eliminate the need for gorping up the front and the back of the bike with turn signal stalks and pods, etc. -- The tail light was okay. I wish it was brighter though,.. so,... I may add some running lights facing backwards somewhere. -- The brake light is pathetic. In bright sunlight you can see it if you are looking for it, but it is not likely to grab the attention of a cager geezer, or of some McD's counter person on a cellphone late for work. At night it shows up some, but still not very bright. I added two 4-LED pods back under the flex license plate on some bent 1/8" thick aluminum stock painted black. I got the pods from Joe-Florida's LED Accent lights. Each little 3/4" pod has four LEDs all focused together in what is maybe a 20 degree cone. They cost only a few bucks for each pod and those suckers are BBBRRRRRRIGHT!! So now I have attention-getting brake lights. Joe-Florida's by the way is a fantastic place to work with. The first order was not exactly what I wanted, so I sent an email. The miscommunication was probably more my fault than theirs, but without questioning anything about the situation at all, they sent out what I wanted the next day, and let me keep the stuff I had received already. If you want any additional lighting, check them out. www.ledaccentlights.net email is joe-florida@ledaccentlights.net The pic below shows a side by side comparison of the three situations. From left to right: RYCA taillight,... then in the middle, the RYCA brake light,.... Then on the right, the RYCA brake light with the Joe-Florida tiny little $3.50 LED pods. I went to a little trouble to make sure the pods were aimed properly. When the bike is 20' from a wall, facing away from the wall with the brakes on, there is a red disk about 3' in diameter, the center of which is about 28" off the ground. The RYCA brake light and the two Joe-Florida mini-lights are all aimed at that point. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Brake_taillitevizjoined01d.jpg These pics just show the $3.50 Joe_Florida LED pods. They are really unobtrusive just sitting there, but they do light things up when the brakes are applied. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LEDbrakelights01b.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/LEDbrakelights02b.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by Gyrobob on 10/14/12 at 18:34:15 Here's the 9" bucket to house the 8" headlight I am working on. Any of you guys know what goes in the rectangular hole? http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/headlightbucket01100dpi.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by ToesNose on 10/15/12 at 09:08:49 The tail lights look nice and clean GyroBob, as for the headlight ofcourse a rectangular block goes into the rectangular hole because a round one won't fit! :D Glad I could be of assistance ;) (help factor=0 hopefully I put a smile on your face at least) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by Gyrobob on 10/15/12 at 09:20:39 013A30261B3A2630550 wrote:
.............................................................grin A rectangular block is precisely what I am carving at the moment to fit in that rectangular hole. I suspect that hole is there to allow access to the bulb for replacement. I have a piece of old mudflap about 1/4" thick that ought to do the trick. The other two holes are for wiring, I would assume. I'll block one of them off, and put some edge protection on the other (or a grommet) to protect the wires. I'll be using an HID headlight system. There appears to be plenty of room in that bucket for that kind of paraphernalia. Think how bright the night will be with an HID system spewing light from an 8" reflector!! I'm also trying to figure out the best solution for actually attaching the thing to the bike. There are several versions of fork mounted brackets. I'd like to have some rubber insulation in the mount somewhere. Rigid, strong, but yet adjustable,.... and not looking like some sort of a bridge a civil engineer would think up. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by Gyrobob on 10/16/12 at 05:27:04 See reply #247 for what happened to the sink strainer mod on the RYCA-supplied EMGO muffler. see #277 for a complete inner redesign |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by Dave on 10/22/12 at 05:41:29 I saw a stock motorcycle over the weekend with the same headlight bucket you have. The rectangular hole had lots of wiring coming out of the hole. They used the headlight bucket for "wiring central" and the back of the headlight bucket was so close to the steering head on the frame that things were really jammed tight with wiring. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by Gyrobob on 10/22/12 at 09:01:37 4B707D6A7B776C6A7179746B180 wrote:
Are you sure it was stock? I have seen a couple that had the wires located in the lower two holes. I assumed they were stock, but who knows? On bikes nearing 30 years old, they have probably been apart at least a few times and reassembly might have had a few "creative" procedures used. Anyway, with the simple set up I'll have on the RYCA bike, any ONE of those holes will do. I don't think I'd like to have the rectangular hole uncovered. If the bike got caught out in a small rain shower, that hole would let in a lot of water, whether or not the bike was moving. Maybe the two holes on the bottom are there to let the water drain out that gushed in from the rectangular hole on top!! ;) ;D :o :-? ::) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by verslagen1 on 10/22/12 at 09:08:16 Even the stock savage headlight is not sealed. water hitting the headlight will just follow it around and drain out the bottom or thru the wire access hole. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by Dave on 10/22/12 at 09:53:19 Yep, it was a stock GS1100E, and it had 12,000 miles on it and looked really nice. The back of the headlight was really hidden pretty well under the gauges, between the headlight mounts, between the forks, and with the cables and wiring. I thought about taking a picture.....but it would really have revealed very little. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by Gyrobob on 10/23/12 at 20:56:52 Big milestone yesterday. The Double RYCA Build metamorphosed into the Double RYCA Ride. It was, as they like to say today, awesome. We rode around for about an hour on the roads south of Newnan and Peachtree City. One of the things that gave me goosebumps was hearing two 650cc thumpers (not muffled very well by the RYCA-supplied EMGO mufflers) accelerating hard side by side, matching shifts, with the RPM very nearly the same. The noise is pure music. Sometimes the noise is such that you can imagine each piston going up and down in perfect formation with each other. Other times they were slightly out of phase so there was a dissonant kind of resonance that would slowly roar in and out of phase. Cool. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/23/12 at 22:06:51 Who doesnt love the sound of a twin engine prop plane doing that? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by Gyrobob on 10/24/12 at 04:29:13 4D5254534E4978487840525E15270 wrote:
There are a lot of similarities! The sound of a Twin Beech or Cessna 310, though, gets most of the in-and-out-of-phase music from the prop noise. The 650cc duet is more impressive to me because the only noise is blat/thump from the exhaust, and, with the RYCA-supplied K&N air filters, there is a pulsating honk coming from the intake side as well. It really makes for some entertainment,... hearing these two motors singing out loudly within about 10' of each other. I need to get a video (with some good audio) of this. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by misterbbq on 10/24/12 at 10:33:43 2618130E030E03610 wrote:
haul those bad boys up here to acworth! waffle house will be my treat!! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - lights, 12v jacks, mu Post by Gyrobob on 10/24/12 at 10:35:39 35312B2C3D2A3A3A29580 wrote:
haul those bad boys up here to acworth! waffle house will be my treat!![/quote] Great idea! I'll get with Jud when he's back in town. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - symphony Post by Gyrobob on 10/26/12 at 04:44:43 Yesterday I had the first situation with parts falling off the bike. When I got back, the upper thumbscrew for the right sidecover was gone, and the right sidecover was loose, just being held in place by the bottom thumbscrew. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - symphony, part fell o Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/26/12 at 05:45:32 They vibrate pretty hard. Ive seen Why they break license plates,the fender was swinging side to side so hard I had to look twice, I thot my eyes were lying to me, |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - symphony, part fell o Post by verslagen1 on 10/26/12 at 07:20:59 Old rubber covered sealing washer work great to secure those screws. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - symphony, part fell o Post by Gyrobob on 10/26/12 at 09:34:05 7E6D7A7B64696F6D6639080 wrote:
I agree,.. but I only have three thumbscrews now, though. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - symphony, part fell o Post by misterbbq on 10/26/12 at 10:56:18 thought of you guys when i saw this one craigslist: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/mcy/3366420337.html http://images.craigslist.org/3Ee3Ga3Jf5G55H45Jacaq0856938bda0315f7.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - symphony, part fell o Post by Gyrobob on 10/28/12 at 19:13:22 37282E2934330232023A28246F5D0 wrote:
I felt the side covers on the next ride, and they really do vibrate a LOT!! There is some sort of resonance at certain rpms that is pretty impressive. I wonder how many RYCA bikes have lost their sidecovers. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - symphony, part fell o Post by Gyrobob on 10/31/12 at 19:47:38 The EMGO muffler in the RYCA kit is not a muffler. It is a noisemaker. The fiberglass "packing" in the thing is almost as durable as toilet paper. I tried replacing the packing with stainless steel packing and it was still too loud, and was forcing all the exhaust to flow through one perforated cup. I added a sink strainer mod at the outlet of the muffler, and that helped a little,.. but the situation with the packing was still worthless. Now, I have taken out all the packing, and added two pieces that redirect the flow so that the noise has to go into the muffler, pass from the inside to the outside of the core, then back into the core, then back out, then back in, then through a technologically advance sink strainer to further disperse the noise, then out. The principle is to send the sound waves through different compartments with different sound properties to dampen out the sound without simply trying to absorb it. I tried it out this morning. It works. Yay. The tone is still manly, but the horrendous obnoxious harley-like CRACK is not there. At full throttle it is still pretty throaty, but not as loud. During normal acceleration in traffic, the exhaust noise is tolerable, and sounds nice. I don't feel like I am pissing off everyone within 100 yards. Here's what EMGO calls packing. That is a thin layer of fiberglass loosely held in place with some safety wire. That stuff was gone within 20 miles of the first ride and the noise was even louder. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAEmgomufflerpack3Large-1.jpg Here's what it looks like with the packing gone and the two pieces I made to make a packing-free muffler. -- The outer ring has a few small holes in it, and is to be welded to outside of the perforated core. -- The washer I am holding is a concave washer with a four 5/32" holes drilled into it in addition to the original center hole, and is to be welded to the inside of the perforated core. -- The concave washer is supposed to act like a crude parabola to reflect the noise wave back up the pipe, like Flowmaster does in their high-flow mufflers. -- Not shown is the sink strainer to be MIG welded on the output end of the assembly. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/EMGOMod04.jpg Here's a drawing of how the exhaust flows. The blue parts are what I added. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/EMGOmoddrawing01.jpg Here's what it looks like after a 50 mile ride. From left to right: -- sink strainer -- about 4" to the right of the strainer, the original perforated cup inside the perforated core. -- baffle around the outside of the perforated core, a very large washer MIG welded to the core. -- concave baffle MIG welded inside the perforated core. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/EMGOMod05.jpg End view showing the concave baffle (washer) MIG welded inside the core. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/EMGOMod03.jpg The whole shebang inserted in the muffler shell, with a good view of the sink strainer MIG welded on the end of the baffle assembly. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/EMGOMod02.jpg Fully assembled. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/EMGOMod01.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - muffler mod Post by bobert on 10/31/12 at 20:35:13 I like your solution, Gyrobob. I had that Emgo muffler on my non-Ryca Savage and had to retire it because it was just obnoxious loud and raspy after my repacked fiberglass blew out (again). This makes the baffling design more on the order of the Dyna mufflers. Back in the 70's, I rode a Ducati single with a small can muffler that had a similar baffle and it had a surprisingly good tone and lack of raspiness for such a small muffler. The only issue I see with this is possible bluing of the cheap Emgo chrome where the exhaust gas gets forced out of the core and out against the outside of the muffler. Time will tell, I suppose. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - muffler mod Post by Gyrobob on 10/31/12 at 21:39:21 4E434E495E582C0 wrote:
Thanks for the comment. I, too, had a single cylinder Ducati. My first real motorcycle,... in 1964. A 1962 Ducati Monza 250. It had a "Silentium" muffler that was not all that silentium. I agree,... the chrome on the EMGO is likely to get rather colorful soon. I had a Jardine on this bike when it was a Savage, and it also had blues, browns, and ambers on it. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - muffler mod Post by Dave on 11/01/12 at 05:07:41 This is a great adaptation.......and very creative. I applaud you for not wanting to be that obnoxious loud motorcycle that people glare at as your ride by. I live 2 miles from a 4 lane highway out in the country. I can hear the loud motorcycles and trucks without any form of workable muffler out on that highway, and I wonder why they want to be so darn loud? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - muffler mod Post by srinath on 11/01/12 at 07:56:46 That atlanta cafe built savage - Looks great ... but I know how it will handle, and a cafe is supposed to be what a sportbike isn't. A canyon racer taken to the ultimate extreme. I cant seem to get over that problem ... A goosenecked frame with a ultra short triple set would be the ticket for a cafe if you want to use the stock tank etc (which I would, they look lovely). Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - symphony, part fell o Post by srinath on 11/01/12 at 08:14:36 60647E79687F6F6F7C0D0 wrote:
The other thing that is a bit of a "bad idea" on this is - the shock is fitted to the original mount location right - ... the taller shock makes the swingarm sink lower making the belt likely to hit the swingarm on the top side. I would relocate the upper shock mount to somewhere higher up in the frame. Sorta where the seat ends - right under that. Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - muffler mod Post by Gyrobob on 11/01/12 at 08:25:46 043F3225343823253E363B24570 wrote:
Thanks for the comment. I don't know why some folks like really loud exhausts. They ignore the fact that it pisses off so many people,.. it makes them hate us. Don't get me started. Anyway, this RYCA is now halfway between objectionably noisy and gold wing. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA - new info - muffler mod Post by Gyrobob on 11/01/12 at 09:02:15 I posted earlier about the side cover thumbscrews falling out. The thumbscrews supplied with the kit are finger tightenable only. The sidecovers vibrate so much, there is a high probability these things will work their way out unless you tighten them with long-nosed vise grips. Then, along the side of the road somewhere, you couldn't use your fingers to get the sidecovers off. The fasteners reside in places that don't allow much leverage. Anyway, until I can come up with a better, more secure, more convenient system, these fasteners need more security. My "bright idea" is to use small 6-32 screws with wing nut heads to get more leverage in those recessed areas. I couldn't find any,.. so I made four. High-tech Home Depot aerospace plated alloy fastening devices: http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Sidecoverwingbolt02.jpg Wing nuts silver-soldered to the screws. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Sidecoverwingbolt03.jpg Screw heads cut off,... threads tidied up. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Sidecoverwingbolt01.jpg This is not a great pic, but it shows one of the wing-nut screws with the "safetying" device (a nylon cable a little over a foot long with springs at each end). This view is from the right side of the cylinder looking aft. You can see the right shock, the side cover, the tire, and in the center, the lower right wing-nut screw with the nylon cable stretched tight on it. One end of one spring hooks on to the upper right wing-nut screw, stretches the cable around the lower right wing-nut screw, then lower left wing-nut screw, then hooks the other spring on the upper left wing-nut screw. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Sidecoverwingboltsafety01.jpg After two 1-hr rides, the wing-nut screws have not moved any. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers Post by misterbbq on 11/01/12 at 09:43:00 nice solution! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers Post by verslagen1 on 11/01/12 at 10:31:49 I'm thinking of adding a stainless steel mesh to where the fiberglass batting is supposed to go. Mine is a supertrapp in stead of the emgo, but the principle is the same. We use material we call steel felt, which would be perfect, but expensive. I think the next step down would be several layers of window screening. The idea is to provide multiple paths to expand in, as the sound goes around the wire and meets up with itself, a small portion of it cancels out. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers Post by Gyrobob on 11/01/12 at 11:02:04 283B2C2D323F393B306F5E0 wrote:
There are two basic approaches: 1. Line the can with material that will absorb the sound. (like a glass-pack, so to speak) 2. Have the noise pass through some volumes/shapes/compartments that have different damping/resonance factors so the sound is attenuated by going from one compartment to another. (like an OE stock motorcycle or auto muffler) With this latest mod, I went from #1 to #2. I don't have to worry, now, about the freshness or condition of the packing. There IS no packing. The only wear factor now is how long it will take for the baffles to rust away. So far, I like this situation a lot better. In a month or a year, I might have a different story,... who knows? :P |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers Post by Gyrobob on 11/01/12 at 12:06:13 5C5842455443535340310 wrote:
Thanks. It seems to be working. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers Post by Gyrobob on 11/02/12 at 08:38:00 This new mod for the muffler may have lowered the back pressure a bit. -- It feels like there is a bit more power -- The back end of the muffler is not as sooty -- There is more crackling between shifts -- More burbling/snorting during closed throttle deceleration -- A louder cough when the bike is shut off In other words, it is behaving like the mixture is a bit leaner,... which is what happens, relatively speaking, when the back pressure is reduced. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers Post by bobert on 11/02/12 at 11:03:26 Odd. I would think that your mod would have increased back pressure a little bit. You can't get much less back pressure than the stock Emgo. It's just a perforated plate between the inlet and outlet-- basically a straight pipe. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers Post by Gyrobob on 11/02/12 at 12:29:17 The way it is now, the exhaust gases have many more ways to get to the outlet, so the back pressure is less. The gases can go through the original hole, and around it as well. The way EMGO engineered it, ALL the exhaust gases have to go through one hole,... a 1 3/4" hole with the flow restricted by a perforated plate. I'll admit, though, with the toilet paper EMGO uses for sound dampening, about 20 miles into the first ride, the toilet paper is gone, so the muffler doesn't muffle anymore. Therefore, the exhaust gases and all the noise just flow through the open muffler case, mostly bypassing the perforated "baffle" in the core. In this situation, the back pressure is less than either of the other ways because, in effect, it is an open pipe. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers Post by Dave on 11/02/12 at 15:51:15 I wonder if that is why the EMGLO packing goes out so fast.....because the exhaust is trying to go around that center baffler. All the mufflers that I have taken apart that have the perforated pipe and fibeglass matt don't have any restriction in the center of the pipe....they are just straight through. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, muffler mod, sidecovers Post by Gyrobob on 11/02/12 at 19:57:15 49727F6879756E68737B76691A0 wrote:
Yes, poor design is part of it. Another factor is the absurdly light weight and minimal quantity of the packing. Just look at the pic!! That amount of packing couldn't stand up to an .049 R/C model motor. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, fuel filter Post by Gyrobob on 11/07/12 at 03:36:36 Here's the fuel filter we used. Fairly compact for its flow rate, and supposedly a high quality item since it is a K&N part. http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=81-0261 http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/KampNfuelfilter01b.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 7 Nov fuel filter Post by Oldfeller on 11/07/12 at 03:59:51 Gyro, I know it is a K&N filtration system. They say it is "cellulose matting" based but they do not post a micron filtration level anywhere either. I wonder where the junk goes, down into the matting itself? The matting is open enough that you can see down into it even in the pics you posted. It is different, to say the least. It is also the same "sideways" type of filter that Charon had his scooter issues with ..... http://suzukisavage.com/yabb2.2/Attachments/IMG_0839.JPG |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 7 Nov fuel filter Post by Gyrobob on 11/07/12 at 04:39:48 When we got the K&N filters, just for grins I hooked up one to a fuel line with the filter at one end and a funnel at the other. -- With the open end of the filter sitting in the mouth of another gas can, I dumped some gas into the funnel, and the fuel came streaming out of the filter quite plentifully. -- I don't know what the actual fuel flow rate was, but for d*mn sure it was greater than any 650cc motorcycle could use. I let the filter lay on its side for a few hours while I did something else. Then I did the test again and it did the same thing,.. the flow rate being obviously way more than a motor twice this size would ever need. It made me wonder if the filter were actually filtering very much,... because it seemed like the flow rate was not reduced very much over what you'd think an empty filter case would have. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 15 Nov costs Post by Gyrobob on 11/15/12 at 09:28:08 Some folks have asked about costs. Most of what is below is in the new moderator thread. The info is more relevant here, methinks. If you count everything I have spent on it, the total might be $4,200. Maybe $3,400 if you don't count things like: -- doing the paint over and over and over again to correct screw-ups and sometimes just to experiment. I've probably spent $200 on Duplicolor and other rattle cans so far. If I had it to do over (knowing what I know now), a can of bondo, two cans of primer, three cans of color, and a can of Spraytek 2k would do it, maybe $75. -- digital flasher -- extra LED brake lights -- ad-libbed smog system parts -- Avon Speedmaster tires (for a 1960s look),.. my buddy used Goodyear Deluxe Champions for the same reason. -- bar end turn signals -- parts for underseat tool kit storage -- parts to redo the fork seals -- carb rebuild kit -- K&N fuel filter The install for all these parts is scattered around in this thread. The welding expense was near zero because I have the equipment. If someone REALLY wanted to redo the front mount on the battery box to get more room for the RYCA-supplied K&N air filter like I did, the welding would cost $50 to $100 and you'd have to take the frame to a shop. An alternative would be to make one out of cheap strap steel or aluminum from Home Depot (or some workshop scrap), bend it to shape, and rivet it to the frame with cheapo pop rivets. That is not a high-stress area. Also, you can save a lot if you don't go to a larger diameter rear tire like we did. That way you don't have to pay RYCA to cut into the swingarm,.. just use the stock swingarm and smaller diameter rear tire. Yes, double the cost because we built two bikes, but we split the cost. Also he spent some extra on a Li-Ion battery. I want one too. UPDATE: If you want a really good Li-Ion battery, don't get an Earth-X. When they disintegrate, the Earth-X company has a lousy attitude. On a bobber project a guy did last year in LaGrange, he used about $30 of Rustoleum rattle can automotive paint for the whole project. Home Depot stocks it, as does Autozone, etc. -- A can of automotive black for the frame, brackets, small parts, etc. -- Gray primer for EVERYTHING else,... tank, fenders, side covers, etc. Primer lays on quite thickly. You probly only need two or three coats for full color. -- All the gray parts were finished off with a couple of topcoats of clear gloss engine paint. -- It looks good and there are several colors of primer available. (white, light gray, gray, dark gray, black, brown, reddish brown, tan, greenish-yellow, etc.) -- I saw it when it was first finished, and appeared to be quite professionally done,.. probably because he put a lot of knowledgeable effort into preparing the surfaces, and because he rubbed it out. From five feet away, it looked like it came from a good shop. Most folks would have no clue it only set him back $30 and 10 or 15 hours. -- I have no idea how it has held up over the past year, but that clear gloss engine paint is pretty tough. It holds up well except for direct gas spills. The instructions aren't as simple as plain rattle can color paint, though,.. the timing of recoats is an issue. Anyway, if you are on a very tight budget for the paint job,... a little know how, a lot of elbow grease, and a few rattle cans can do an impressive job, at least initially,.. for about the same cost as a dinner at Denny's for you and your current wife. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 19 Nov mileage Post by Gyrobob on 11/19/12 at 16:46:56 I have been getting a fairly consistent 60 to 65 miles from fill up to switching to reserve. I haven't, as yet, seen what the range is on reserve. Maybe I'll take along a quart of gas in a backpack or something and run it dry just to find out. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 1 dec top speed Post by Gyrobob on 12/01/12 at 06:36:25 I have about 600 miles on the thing now,... about 3,000 miles on the motor made in 2002. Yesterday I checked top speed. Dry road. Clear skies. 55 degrees. No wind. Body position standard RYCA,.. meaning sitting up, but leaning forward some as dictated by the clip-ons. On a long stretch of nearly straight country road with no traffic, no driveways, and no crossroads at all, I started the straight section of road at about 60 mph. After about a quarter mile at full throttle the speedo said 78 and the GPS said 82, and stayed there for the next 1/8 mile. In the 1960s, I had a Yamaha YM-1 305cc two-stroke, and a Honda CB350 (325cc) that would go faster than that. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 1 dec 2012 top speed Post by scubachef on 12/02/12 at 19:28:05 What rpm did you take it to? I have verified my speedo is correct and I have run over your speed a few times when I have not been paying attention, was at about 6k and had some throttle left. I have a stock belt and rear wheel. Would elevation or humidity, etc have effect on top speed? Seems like you should be able to hit a higher speed. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, fuel filter Post by ZAR on 12/03/12 at 18:22:48 0C3239242924294B0 wrote:
Gyro that is the same filter that is used on most riding mowers now. We see them on all the Cub Cadet and Bad Boy mowers with the Kawasaki engines. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA, new info, fuel filter Post by Gyrobob on 12/03/12 at 19:09:50 160D1E4C0 wrote:
Gyro that is the same filter that is used on most riding mowers now. We see them on all the Cub Cadet and Bad Boy mowers with the Kawasaki engines. [/quote] Is that a good thing? How much is that filter sourced through Cub Cadet? I think I paid about $7 each for those things. The K&N price is around $11 as I remember. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 1 dec 2012 top speed Post by singlesgoinsteady on 12/03/12 at 21:07:03 Pretty awesome mileage you're getting, what jets are you using? Do you have the Ryca kit K&N filter on it? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 1 dec 2012 top speed Post by Gyrobob on 12/04/12 at 06:11:23 203A3D343F3620343C3A3D20273632372A530 wrote:
I'm using the jets supplied in the RYCA kit. We did the white spacer mod (replaced it with RYCA washers) and installed the RYCA parts when we overhauled the carbs. Yes, I am using the K&N air filter suppled with the kit as well. I'm also using the "smog system" shown in the Double RYCA build thread. See reply #130 in this thread. It is environmentally unfriendly (and illegal around here [ticket worthy] ) to just dump the crackcase fumes overboard, even if you attach a tube with one of those cute little autozone lo-rider filters. I remember seeing a comment by Casey somewhere about the jets supplied in the kit as being too rich, and that we should be using a 52.5 pilot and 150 main. Where is that comment? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 4 Dec 2012 - jets, carb, smo Post by Fipronil on 12/05/12 at 06:28:40 Gyrobob, I saw the reference in the video that RYCA posted for tuning the carburetor. I'm currently waiting on my RYCA kit. Really enjoyed your build thread. Thanks! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 4 Dec 2012 - jets, carb, smo Post by Gyrobob on 12/05/12 at 06:38:00 032C35372A2B2C29450 wrote:
Thanks for the comment. Please keep in touch with any questions about how it goes together. I sure learned a lot about how not to do it. Have you rebuilt a carb before? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 4 Dec 2012 - jets, carb, smo Post by Fipronil on 12/05/12 at 06:42:53 I haven't rebuilt one before, but took mine apart to clean it a few weeks ago before I took the motorcycle apart for the RYCA build. It's amazing how much better it runs without clogged jets! I am interested in increasing the visibility from behind. Have you done anymore modifications besides the LED lights? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 4 Dec 2012 - jets, carb, smo Post by Gyrobob on 12/05/12 at 07:16:59 18372E2C313037325E0 wrote:
Not yet. The next upgrade is the train light. I am considering sending a constant low voltage to the bar end signals as one way to add to the visibility -- a not-very-bright amber light. Also I'm considering some of those red LED pods mounted somewhere else that would be on all the time. Those things are great because they are really bright and use only a watt or two, they are easy to mount, and they are CHEAP. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 4 Dec 2012 - jets, carb, smo Post by LANCER on 12/06/12 at 02:37:27 Using a headlight from a train ? That should light up the road ! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 4 Dec 2012 - jets, carb, smo Post by Gyrobob on 12/06/12 at 06:11:36 6F626D6066713134030 wrote:
train light is an oft-used sobriquet for the 9" bucket holding an 8" lens that was stock for the GS1100, the Yamaha xj650r, and the Yamaha xv920r. "they" say it lights up the road as if the sun came out. See replies 258 thru 265 |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 7 Dec 2012 - train light Post by Gyrobob on 12/07/12 at 10:24:33 Here is a pic of the yet to be installed train light, next to the stocker. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/trainlight01bsmaller.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 4 Dec 2012 - jets, carb, smo Post by Serowbot on 12/07/12 at 10:46:58 You win,.. yours is bigger... :-?... PS.. What's the story with that thumb?.. or don't I want to know?... :-/... |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 7 Dec 2012 - train light Post by Gyrobob on 12/07/12 at 11:13:49 5345524F57424F54200 wrote:
The thumb was accidentally bopped with a big wrench a few weeks ago. I did utter a few sweet-nothings when it happened, I will admit. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 7 Dec 2012 - train light Post by misterbbq on 12/07/12 at 17:51:33 ah yes....the 'ol wrenchhammerdriverprybarbuttscratcher. i have a whole set! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 7 Dec 2012 - train light Post by LANCER on 12/08/12 at 02:46:14 Well, you know what THEY say; if you don't have fresh wounds in the healing process then you are not wrenching enough. :D |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 7 Dec 2012 - train light Post by T2 on 12/08/12 at 10:16:19 What are your plans for mounting the train light? I'm doing the same project and looking for good ideas to steal! :D Terry |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 7 Dec 2012 - train light Post by Gyrobob on 01/12/13 at 07:42:30 716077777C373034050 wrote:
I'm either going to use these: http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/headlightbracket01a.jpg http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-lighting-parts-chrome-headlight-brackets-66-35850.html or cobble up something of my own. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build 7 Dec 2012 - train light Post by T2 on 01/12/13 at 10:30:28 I like those - Dime City seemed to have several possible solutions. Thanks for the input. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- added stuff about wheels Post by paulmarshall on 01/12/13 at 11:56:26 4779726F626F62000 wrote:
That fat one will fit my Savage :) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Jan 2012 Post by Fipronil on 01/15/13 at 04:39:54 Hey Gyrobob. I like your LED brake light supplements that you mentioned. What wires did you plug them into? I'm almost finished putting mine together, but would like to add a little visibility. I ordered some of the lights from FloridaJoe. Thanks! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Jan 2012 Post by Gyrobob on 02/25/13 at 05:54:58 The bike still doesn't go very fast. The 650s I rode in the 1960s didn't feel as torquey, but they would usually do the ton. Also, the handling is not comforting. I changed the jets back to stock yesterday. I have been using RYCA-supplied richer jets up until now. -- It did 84 mph on the GPS with me sitting up but in the somewhat leaning forward posture demanded by the RYCA clip-ons. That's 2 mph faster than before, but it was a lot colder today, so maybe that "improvement" is not valid. -- I have a lot of drag, I'm sure, because I have the sitting height of a 6'5" person. The tires are 32 psi f & r, Avon Speedmaster 19" front and 18" rear. -- I scare myself sometimes when leaning the thing over at 60+ mph. It doesn't do a tank slapper, it just sort of weaves in and out about twice per second. -- Casey says a fork brace cured his bike of that situation. -- I'm ordering a TKAT brace. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Jan 2012 Post by Gyrobob on 02/25/13 at 06:08:18 0D223B39242522274B0 wrote:
I plugged them into the wire that powers the brake light. Apparently there is some logic circuitry in the RYCA-supplied tail light because when I first hooked them up, the lights were all screwed up. I ended up having to put a diode in each wire to the added LED brake lights so that electricity could only flow to them, but without the circuitry seeing that additional voltage path or some such. The diodes were cheapy little things I bought at Radio Shack. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Jan 2012 Post by Gyrobob on 03/29/13 at 06:32:00 Guess what this is? http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/JackingboardRYCA02a_zps83b4ac6f.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/JackingboardRYCA01a_zps1e3eb391.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Jan 2012 Post by Dave on 03/29/13 at 08:18:23 I'm gonna guess it is a board that allows you to jack the bike up squarely.....so it is stable on your motorcycle jack. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Jan 2012 Post by Gyrobob on 03/29/13 at 09:49:42 152E2334252932342F272A35460 wrote:
You win. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/jackingboardRYCA06_zpsbed94e99.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/jackingboardRYCA05_zpsf4417ff5.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/jackingboardRYCA04_zpsad9056d1.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/jackingboardRYCA03_zps3a2ccff0.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Jan 2012 Post by Dave on 03/29/13 at 14:12:12 That looks great. Quick.....Head down to the Patent Office! ;D |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Jan 2012 Post by Gyrobob on 03/29/13 at 19:30:47 I shipped my rear wheel on UPS to RYCA motors today to have them respoke it. $58 for shipping. Sheeesh. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Jan 2012 Post by RidgeRunner13 on 03/29/13 at 20:08:07 Yeah, shipping is getting stupid expensive!!!! Just picked up a 3 piece set of Mustang seats for Kens' 950 & shipping from Utah to Texas was $40. Got the guy to $365 shipped for about $700 seats that were 5 months old. ;D Podium membership to BikeBandit expires 4-27, guess I'll do that again because it probably saved me a couple hundred $$$$ this year in shipping with all the stuff I order for myself & customers. :) Just got my wife & daughter each a new EXO100 helmet in the purple Lily pattern. They had a closeout in their size for $12.95 each!!! Wtih the $1.96 in BanditBucks I had, that was $23.94 for 2 helmets normally $129.95 each, & free shipping. They are 2 happy ladies now! 8-) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2013 Post by Gyrobob on 04/17/13 at 18:27:42 Just got an email today from Ryan at RYCA. The wheel is on its way back! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 Train Light Post by Gyrobob on 04/26/13 at 19:26:44 Guess what the metallic green things are,... http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/RYCATL01b_zps67252e25.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/RYCATL01b_zps67252e25.jpg.html) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2013 Post by verslagen1 on 04/26/13 at 19:34:20 but sling hangers? ;D |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2013 Post by Dave on 04/27/13 at 03:01:15 Washers that go on the shocks so you can mount a luggage rack? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May - train light Post by Gyrobob on 04/27/13 at 11:44:25 556E6374656972746F676A75060 wrote:
Good guess!! They DO look like something like that, eh? Here's a hint,.. they go on the other end of the bike. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2013 Post by cafecarl on 04/27/13 at 18:16:20 Fairing struts? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2013 Post by paulmarshall on 04/27/13 at 18:33:43 Some sort of aftermarket Headlight Bracket? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May - train light Post by Gyrobob on 04/28/13 at 19:28:03 5F4E5A43424E5D5C474E43432F0 wrote:
That speculation was almost perfect. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - train light Post by Gyrobob on 04/28/13 at 19:36:33 While they are headlight brackets, they are not aftermarket, they are custom-crafted, so to speak. None of the "solutions" out there seemed to line up very well with the train light, so I cobbled up something of my own. They are basically 1/4" steel bar, mig-welded to some heavy washers. They are coupled to the heavy duty stainless clamps with fuel line,... I wanted more rubber mounting than just that provided with the bolts in the train light. The fuel line will have some really small hose clamps or some such to secure the pieces together. I took these pics before it was finished because the trainlight shell will be the same color as the mounts and would have made for a lousy pic of the installed mounts. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Trainlightmount01_zps81d858be.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Trainlightmount01_zps81d858be.jpg.html) http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Trainlightmount02_zpscf1c3626.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Trainlightmount02_zpscf1c3626.jpg.html) http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Trainlightmount03_zpsbe02d35b.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Trainlightmount03_zpsbe02d35b.jpg.html) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2013 Post by verslagen1 on 04/28/13 at 21:14:54 Fender looks crooked http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Trainlightmount03_zpsbe02d35b.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Trainlightmount03_zpsbe02d35b.jpg.html) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2013 Post by paulmarshall on 04/28/13 at 21:34:56 514255544B4640424916270 wrote:
Is that as big as yours verslagen? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2013 Post by verslagen1 on 04/28/13 at 22:27:38 69786C7574786B6A71787575190 wrote:
Is that as big as yours verslagen?[/quote] I'm sure it's the same fender. what? you mean the headlight? no, that one is bigger. I couldn't find the glass for the bigger bucket I got. So instead of going bigger, I went brighter... HID |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - train light Post by Gyrobob on 04/29/13 at 02:54:40 756671706F6264666D32030 wrote:
The fender is just sitting there loose. I had just put the tkat brace on and hadn't tightened everything up yet. It is a CB550 fender. 1203170E0F0310110A030E0E620 wrote:
Is that as big as yours verslagen?[/quote] it is a 9" bucket with an 8" reflector |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - train light Post by Dave on 05/01/13 at 09:19:16 Can you use the same bulb from the stock headlight in this big headlight....at least for a few night rides? I am interested to see (hear from you) what the diference is from a 6.25" to an 8" reflector, and using the same bulb would eliminate the improvements caused by a new and maybe better bulb. I wonder how much additional light comes for the size, or efficiency of the reflector. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - train light Post by Gyrobob on 05/01/13 at 11:58:17 4C777A6D7C706B6D767E736C1F0 wrote:
Yes, it uses a standard H4 bulb. I don't have any accurate way to measure lumens, but with an informal test at night a few weeks ago, the stock LS650 headlight and stock (55w) bulb, seemed about as bright (possibly a little less so) as the train light with a 35w bulb. I'm using the 35w reduced wattage bulb because our alternator is not all the strong. For daytime riding, I'll have the headlight off. I have some LEDs installed in the headlight so cagers can see the headlight during the day. Those LEDs use only 5w or so,.. leaving lots of wattage available for heated vests, gps, etc. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - tire rub again Post by Gyrobob on 05/22/13 at 18:36:46 I was going crazy trying to figure out where the rear tire (my precious Avon Speedmaster 4.00-18) was rubbing. I have already done an involved project to keep it from rubbing on the swingarm. Finally I noticed the shiny, partially rounded-off bolt for the panel behind the battery. See the bolt on the left below. Sorry for the fuzzy pics,... I was using a Droid instead of the Sony NEX-5. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtirerubbolt5a_zpsb9716b7e.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtirerubbolt5a_zpsb9716b7e.jpg.html) I countersunk the holes: http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtirerubbolt16a_zps0b2ae6a8.jpg I made two countersunk head screws (on the right) out of some hexhead bolts (left). http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtirerubbolt17a_zps2ed20983.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtirerubbolt11a_zps10745af0.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtirerubbolt11a_zps10745af0.jpg.html) http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtirerubbolt13a_zpsb0191923.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtirerubbolt13a_zpsb0191923.jpg.html) Here's what it looks like now,.. before paint. Hopefully I won't be gouging out any more chunks of the Avon Speedmaster. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtirerubbolt7a_zpsdadfffdc.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/RYCAtirerubbolt7a_zpsdadfffdc.jpg.html) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - jacking board Post by Gyrobob on 08/23/13 at 12:05:02 A few folks lately have asked about the cheapo board I made to help stabilize the bike while on a motorcycle jack. Here's the jack I bought for the project,.. see reply #6. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1304722902 http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Searsaluminummcyclejack01.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/Searsaluminummcyclejack01.jpg.html) See reply #325 here (in the Double RYCA Build thread as well) for pics of the board in use. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1304722902/325 Here's a pic of the board with dimensions. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/rycajackboard01_zps503e7962.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/rycajackboard01_zps503e7962.jpg.html) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - jacking board Post by PhantomII on 08/23/13 at 13:04:42 Can you take a picture of it on the jack and position the jack the way you would be jacking up the motorcycle? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - jacking board Post by Dave on 08/23/13 at 13:15:50 724A434C564D4F6B6B220 wrote:
Just back up a page on this thread....and you can see it. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - jacking board Post by Gyrobob on 08/23/13 at 17:27:26 6058515E445F5D7979300 wrote:
Did you see the suggestion to go to reply #325 in this thread? If so, and those pics aren't enough, just tell me what you want and I'll take some more pics. See reply #325 here (in the Double RYCA Build thread as well) for pics of the board in use. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1304722902/325 |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - jacking board Post by Gyrobob on 08/23/13 at 17:48:44 I have been taking this bike out on rides about an hour long once or twice a week. I fire up the Garmin Base Camp software, plot out a twisty route about 25 or 30 miles long, load it into the GPS, and head out,... just following what Diedre tells me. (I call her Diedre because I changed the voice in the Garmin 765t to British Female.) This bike is loads and loads of fun. Just listening to that one piston going up and down and sensing each and every blat as it comes out the inadequate emgo muffler,... each and every honk as it inhales through the K&N is just plain fun. This bike has changed my attitude about something pretty basic. -- I used to think horsepower was everything. That is one of the reasons I have an FJR1300,.. it does everything pretty well, but it has a nuclear rush when you twist the throttle. Only a few bikes will out accelerate it, and I never see any of those. -- My previous attitude was that anything with less horsepower would be boring. Well, this RYCA bike has maybe 1/4 the horsepower of the KING KONG FJR, and can only go about 1/2 as fast,.. but for just getting out on country roads, chillin', blatting along at sporty but still comfortable speeds, the RYCA bike is really enjoyable. I am considering building another single-cylinder café bike. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - jacking board Post by randyradio on 08/23/13 at 19:22:48 I always enjoy your posts. I'm still down in south Ga and still have that RYCE kit in the boxes and a 04 Savage to put the stuff on. You sure have put some great tips and thoughts on the list. I saw that RYCA from Mich on FB tonight that RYCA posted from the Savage web site. That build is superb. I will someday start this one. I guess Randy |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - tire rub again Post by Toroso on 08/24/13 at 04:59:42 1E202B363B363B590 wrote:
I want something like this to work on my bike this winter. Is there anything RYCA specific besides the compression depression marked? What is that on the left side at the 2 inch mark? Thanks! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - tire rub again Post by NorCalRider on 08/24/13 at 12:40:35 Gyrobob, This is very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to put in all the dimensions. Very much appreciated. I have the same jack and will make the board to make it easier to work on. 49777C616C616C0E0 wrote:
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by doubloshoe on 09/05/13 at 22:27:17 2719120F020F02600 wrote:
Hello I also removed the decompression selenoid for the RR-1 bobber build. In this picture you jumped the connection and my question is whether that's necessary or just a convenience. I would like to just cut the connector and solder the wires together. And yes I have no electrical knowledge or mechanical knowledge for that matter so this might be a stupid (novice) question. I've found this thread incredibly helpful in my build attempt, so thank you. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - jacking board Post by Serowbot on 09/05/13 at 23:25:05 734D465B565B56340 wrote:
I think we have reached the point,... even passed it... where HP is anything to aspire to... It's just there... you can easily buy, way more than you can use... You can easily buy a bike today that you will spend all your time reining in, rather than whipping... It's twice as frightening, but only half the fun... There is something about getting the most from a machine... that having too much just doesn't satisfy... :-?... |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by Gyrobob on 09/06/13 at 03:58:09 7A716B7C72716D76717B1E0 wrote:
Hello I also removed the decompression selenoid for the RR-1 bobber build. In this picture you jumped the connection and my question is whether that's necessary or just a convenience. I would like to just cut the connector and solder the wires together. And yes I have no electrical knowledge or mechanical knowledge for that matter so this might be a stupid (novice) question. I've found this thread incredibly helpful in my build attempt, so thank you.[/quote] The only reason I used a jumper was so that I could put that part of the wiring back to original config if I wanted, and\or have that connector available as a source for voltage if screwing around with the electrical system some more became necessary. I doubt that would happen, but that's just the way I did it. Cutting the connector off and using a proper crimp connector will work just fine. Sometimes I solder instead, but the most reliable connection is crimping, assuming you have the correct tool, and are using aero or marine quality terminals. Walmart connectors not so much. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build May 2013 - tire rub again Post by Gyrobob on 09/06/13 at 04:24:03 4F74697468741B0 wrote:
I want something like this to work on my bike this winter. Is there anything RYCA specific besides the compression depression marked? What is that on the left side at the 2 inch mark? Thanks! [/quote] I think some of the cuts on the left have something to do with the RYCA mount for the rearsets. I don't have the bike near me now,.. I can check on this later. The item at the 2" mark is a loaded magazine for a Kel-tec PF-9. I needed a weight to hold down the measuring tape that kept wanting to sproing up and get out of focus, so I popped the magazine out of the pocket gun to hold it down. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build Post by doubloshoe on 09/07/13 at 14:42:59 Thanks Ill be chopping off the connector. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA Build -- 2-part paint required Post by Gyrobob on 09/13/13 at 06:08:50 251B100D000D00620 wrote:
UPDATE September 2013: -- Less than $100,.. dream on. (still true) -- Duplicolor clear disintegrates when gas hits it. "Apparently the only way to get a gas-proof surface is to use two-part automotive paint that has to be mixed and sprayed on within an hour or two." Still true. I'll be finding someway to clear coat this stuff with gas proof paint. Either Spraymax 2k or have a real paintshop put on a proper clear coat. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Sep 2013 paint Post by Jeff71 on 05/29/14 at 18:17:05 Bob, Are these the lights you bought? http://www.joeflorida.com/4-led-pods-5-pack/ Jeff |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Updates Post by Gyrobob on 03/21/15 at 19:22:38 1200 miles on mine now. Works well. Next improvements: steering stabilizer redoing aircleaner/smog tube converting to low handlebar instead of clip-ons selling all the take-off parts soon |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Jeff71 on 03/21/15 at 21:22:53 How are you going to redo the aircleaner setup? Glad to see you back!!!! Jeff |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 03/23/15 at 07:32:55 1D3231316066570 wrote:
I suspect the K&N filter supplied by RYCA doesn't flow as well as it should, plus the system I used for getting the crankcase fumes into the aircleaner is a bit bulky. I plan to open up the back side of the filter some and cover it with some aircleaner foam. Then I'm planning on routing the crankcase hose to the front of the filter with a small filter in the line to reduce the pulsing in that hose. IOW, at any throttle setting, there will be either a partial vacuum or a low enough pressure to allow the crankcase to vent. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 04/04/15 at 13:37:18 I never did get around to doing a photoshoot on this bike. Here's what it looks like just parked in the garage. The pics are Droid Turbo phone camera pics. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/DSC09000_zpsmrnmg1vo.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/DSC08985_zps2n2bnjbv.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/DSC08989_zps19mnwics.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/fork%20pic%2001a_zpsoxhikrtn.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by swing69 on 04/05/15 at 08:59:18 Hey Gyrobob: a Couple of questions: 1) why not relocate the clip-on above the upper tree? looks like you pushed the tubes through the top tree. 2) why do you think you need a stabilizer? whats going on? 3) any issue with the tire hitting the license plate? what is your weight? 4) Paint: Duplicolor with spraymax topcoat? or did you go to a body shop for clear? 5) Any thoughts on a brake upgrade or the fork upgrade? Looks great!!! nice work!!! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Art Webb on 04/05/15 at 09:10:40 That is a sweet lookin ride! good work man |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 04/05/15 at 10:29:32 71756B6C65343B020 wrote:
1) There's not enough room on the fork tube, and I want the grips to not be stuck out so far,.. I want them closer to each other. 2) At around 75mph there's a slight wiggle I can not tune out with steering head bearing pressure, or tire pressure, or even adding a fork brace. I also have a 2hz weave when leaning it way over in the twisties at 40-50 mph. 3) I did have a problem with the plate hitting the tire. The mods for that were to mount the plate flexibly, and curve the bottom of the plate. Now when the plate hits the tire it rubs harmlessly. See reply #238 in this thread. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1304722902/225 210lbs. 4) All Duplicolor, with Duplicolor clear. That stuffs rubs out beautifully after it dries for a few weeks, but it is trashed by gasoline. 5) The brakes are fine,.. not great, but fine. I plan to use upgraded brake pads for the front. The rear brake, simple as it is, can lock up the rear wheel anytime, and doesn't fade much. The fork is standard but with the RYCA supplied progressive spring upgrade. It rides stiffly. Thanks for the comment. :) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 04/05/15 at 10:39:31 55464043515656340 wrote:
Thanks large. :D |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by fobmarley on 04/16/15 at 20:42:21 what a beauty! inspiration indeed! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by 05ss45 on 07/30/15 at 20:00:55 Beautiful bike! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Sep 2017 updates Post by Gyrobob on 09/12/17 at 11:59:21 Photobucket is a communist organization. In this Double RYCA build thread, I have painstakingly taken hundreds of pics to illustrate all ideas, mistakes, progress, mods, etc., placed them on Photobucket to access from here. Now Photobucket says all those pics won't work unless I give them $400. They call it third party hosting. I call it extortion. I'll have to eventually switch over to another hosting outfit like Bluemelon or Imgur,.. but jeeeeeeeeeeez what a pain it will be to switch over those pics one after another. If I do ten a day, it will take months to change it all over. Have any of the rest of you had a problem like this? If so, did you find a workable solution? :-[ :-/ >:( |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gary_in_NJ on 09/12/17 at 16:52:16 It's all of us. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 09/13/17 at 07:59:49 5953575D565F5B520C0A0E3E0 wrote:
I was hoping some of us had a workable solution. Right now I'm dithering between using another photo hosting site, or setting up my own cheapo website where I can host my own photos. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 10/25/17 at 08:39:24 Test for photo link -- flickr http://https://i.imgur.com/oefaJtUb.jpg |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 10/29/17 at 13:09:59 I think the stator may have bought the farm. Please see http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1509226606 |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/29/17 at 13:53:13 Photobucket is a communist organization. If that was true I'd be paying for your pictures to be available. Capitalism is their gig. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 10/31/17 at 18:29:29 322D2B2C31360737073F2D216A580 wrote:
Clever. So pick out some other derogatory term. -- Photobucket is a hateful organization. -- Photobucket is a screw-the-customer organization. -- Photobucket is a horrible organization. -- Photobucket is comprised of dorknipples. I could go on forever for what they have done to us. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Ruttly on 10/31/17 at 19:53:42 All of the above ! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by LANCER on 10/31/17 at 20:58:46 So that is what they are ! :o |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by stewmills on 11/01/17 at 09:07:54 One of these days I'm going to go see these bikes in person, if Gyrobob will let me?!? Gyrobob, I am just down the road in Auburn, AL and pass through quite often in route to the airport and Emory. One of these days when I have time to spare I'll have to connect with you and plan a visit. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Ruttly on 11/01/17 at 10:12:41 Stewy , You forgot the beer thing ! ;D |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by stewmills on 11/01/17 at 12:00:02 1A3D3C3C2431480 wrote:
Newnan is close enough to drive my truck and not have to fly out and get a rental car, etc. Therefore, I can stock up on PBR from my shop fridge and be fully equipped when I arrive and take the leftovers back home. If I had to fly home I would have to leave any leftover PBR behind, and that would be completely unacceptable! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Ruttly on 11/01/17 at 15:18:47 That might even be a sin ! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 11/18/17 at 20:31:41 5D6368757875781A0 wrote:
Clever. So pick out some other derogatory term. -- Photobucket is a hateful organization. -- Photobucket is a screw-the-customer organization. -- Photobucket is a horrible organization. -- Photobucket is comprised of dorknipples. I could go on forever for what they have done to us.[/quote] I hope someone has found a good alternative for stupidfrickin' photobucket. Any suggestions? UPDATE Mar 2018: I paid them the $99 extortion fee for their new "Premium" plan. It allows non-commercial third party hosting. Now all my pics in this thread have re-appeared. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by LANCER on 11/19/17 at 00:41:29 Freakin' organization Dang organization Doggonnit organization Frappin organization BAD organization Rotten organization Foul organization Scandalous organization The Black Widow's organization Low down dirty dogs organization (may not, that gives dogs a bad name) |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by antmanbee on 11/19/17 at 04:56:20 There is a fix for the Photobucket issue. For a chrome browser, search and add the extension: Photobucket Hotlink Fix 1.3.9 and the photos will show Beautiful build and pictures. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/19/17 at 10:25:21 How did you find that? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by antmanbee on 11/19/17 at 12:01:02 On the Wildguzzi forum. There are some pretty sharp characters over there. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 01/18/18 at 15:24:40 3D3228313D323E39395C0 wrote:
Do you have a similar hack for IE? Thanks for the comment. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2015 updates Post by Gyrobob on 03/13/18 at 09:21:04 Well, with great annoyance, I admitted defeat. Photobucket won,... although they did not win as much as they would have had I given up earlier. They initially wanted $400 of extortion money to make my pics come back. Apparently their customers (victims, eh?) raised such a ruckus that they had to come out with a plan for folks like us (not commercial, just plain old folks on forums and blogs). So, now, you can pay $99.95 for their so-called Premium plan and get your pics back. That's what I did. My annoyance aside, it is nice to have all the pics back in this 389 comment thread that has been viewed over 15,000 times. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2018 updates Post by Gyrobob on 10/04/18 at 15:06:12 What carb options do we have for replacement carbs? EDIT -- I decided to expand on this. See thread "Options for Replacement Carbs" |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2018 updates Post by Gyrobob on 03/02/19 at 13:21:20 I'm heading over to my RYCA buddy's place tomorrow to replace his carb with a new VM 38. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2018 updates Post by Gyrobob on 03/03/19 at 14:51:51 427C776A676A67050 wrote:
Several weeks ago he bought a Mikuni VM38-9, the piece that goes from the cylinder head to the carb, and a "universal" throttle cable. Guess what. It all works. We put a foot of fuel line on the carb, filled it with clean gas, and the thing started up immediately. It ran long enough so we could take off the choke,... it idled nicely. The problem with the parts themselves is that the cable is a bit long,.... routing it properly is a little bit of an issue. We did find some other problems. --- The RYCA tank has quite a rust problem. --- The petcock is rotted away. --- The K&N fuel filter we put on is clogged. So for now we'll replace the fuel line, filter, and petcock. We'll derust the tank and do some research on a gas-proof and ethanol-proof coating inside the tank. The RYCA air filter doesn't fit so he'll need something for the new carb. Any predictions on jetting changes likely to be needed? Fooling around with that tank painted with dupli-color was really messy. The paint job is toast. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2018 updates Post by Dave on 03/03/19 at 16:31:28 My current favorite tank coating is the Caswell Epoxy. The shop has to be as warm as they say - don't try to fudge it by a few degrees lower, as the stuff is thick when it is cold and it makes it nearly impossible to flow around in the tank if it is too cold. The color is clear....anything that looks messy will show through the coating (I believe you can get it in tinted colors - but you can still see through the tint). My second favorite is the POR 15. It is easier to use and makes a nice metallic silver inside the tank. All the old white coatings that are acetone based (like Kreem) are not all that great or durable compared to the newer coatings. It is a bit scary trying to coat a tank that is painted, as most of them want you to use acetone to dry out the acid etch and water. Rather than use the acetone rinse on a painted tank - I have followed the water rinse with E85....as it will absorb the water and not hurt the paint as quickly as acetone will....and if the paint is a fuel proof epoxy/activated paint.....a brief exposure to the E85 won't hurt it. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2018 updates Post by Gyrobob on 03/06/19 at 08:44:27 I'll check into the Caswell Epoxy tank lining. Do you know if it would work properly inside a fiberglass tank? Fiberglass tanks, especially the old ones made before gasohol was available, are really harmed by gasohol. Dave stated: "I have followed the water rinse with E85....as it will absorb the water and not hurt the paint as quickly as acetone will" I worry about gasohol like that because it is damaging stuff in most cases. To get rinse water out of a tank, I like to use plain old alcohol. I do multiple rinses with it. It absorbs water and costs next to nothing at walmart. After a few rinses I set the tank out in the sun for a few hours to make sure it is really dry inside. I'm about to rebuild the carbs for our RYCA bikes. |
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Title: Double RYCA build Post by Gyrobob on 12/24/23 at 15:29:57 Hello all, I've been away from 2-wheel vehicles for a while. Personal difficulties, don't ask,..... I will be getting my RYCA build back in running condition soon. First steps are to derust the inside of the tank and rebuild the carb. Looks like I have a lot of problems with the images not appearing in hundreds of posts explaining how we built two RYCA bikes many years ago. I still have all the RYCA take-off parts (from two bikes) to sell, so if any of you need seats, fenders, side covers, rear wheels, turn signals, handle bars, etc., I'll be putting that stuff in the Marketplace. My basic concept for pricing all that stuff will be about 1/5 of the price typically listed for replacement parts listed on that there internet thingy. As an example: SuzukiPartsHouse lists a front fender for $220, so my price would be $44. Buyer pays shipping. Merry Christmas all! |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by Dave on 12/25/23 at 03:17:03 Welcome back Gyrobob! I spent a lot of time watching your thread - as I had not yet started my Cafe' bike project when you were doing your builds. Thankfully you posted your photos in a way that the thread is still intact - to many of us used TinyPic or similar photo websites that are now defunct. Dissolving tank rust with Evapo-Rust works well - it is harmless to paint and warmer temperatures are best. When I use it in the summer I set the tank in the sun and it helps a great deal. to speed up the process. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by oldguyinoc on 12/25/23 at 07:53:22 Merry Christmas ! Gyrobob, I'm looking for a left side cover if you have one. Also interested in pics of your Ryca builds. I inherited a basket case 1/2 way through the conversion and want to move forward with it. Cheers ! Chris |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by MichPhil on 12/25/23 at 08:51:51 deleted |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by oldguyinoc on 12/25/23 at 10:06:11 My 2 cents : Both work. Electrolysis is cheaper (use sodium carbonate/washing soda, not baking soda and use a mild steel anode, not stainless steel). |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by Gyrobob on 12/25/23 at 10:12:39 3C3F3734262A3A3D3C30530 wrote:
Here are the side covers I have. I have a scratched yellow one and a nicer metallic gray one. The retailers want ~$130 for a left cover. One fifth of that would be $26. Around $46 total. I would guess USPS cheapest shipping would be maybe $20. I'll knock off a few bucks for the yellow one since it is scratched. http://https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/side_covers_01.jpg?width=320&height=320&fit=bound Is it okay to do this here, or are we supposed to discuss these things in the Marketplace? |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by verslagen1 on 12/25/23 at 10:37:38 lookie there! hens teeth. ;D |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by Gyrobob on 12/25/23 at 21:33:12 1B202D3A2B273C3A2129243B480 wrote:
Glad to be back and glad the thread was useful to you. I still have to tidy up some posts where the pics don't show. I tried using Bluemelon for some of them -- not good. Apparently lots of Savage-ists used the thread as well. It got something like 17,000 views! I'll check into evapo-rust. I'm also looking into electrolysis. There are a slew of videos on youtube about derusting motorcycle tanks with electrolysis. Here is one of the many: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGjtx2BgK-U |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by Dave on 12/26/23 at 03:33:04 It won't hurt to try the electrolysis - my experience with it was less than satisfactory. The area of the tank interior was far greater than the surface area of any anode you could fit inside without touching the tank.....so the anode got filthy really fast while the tank showed very little change. Also the farther the tank surface got away from the anode - the less clean it got. That video you posted showed a really nice tank surface after the electrolysis - that would be sweet if you could get it to work (and let us know how). |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by TheSneeze on 12/30/23 at 08:35:58 Just a note from experience. If you use Evap-o-rust, do not rinse with water per the instructions. It will flash rust. Use denatured alcohol for the rinse. You won't get any flash rust that way. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by Gyrobob on 12/30/23 at 08:51:41 56496C6B616864776E050 wrote:
good idea,.... |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by Dave on 12/30/23 at 14:19:12 I rinse with E85 from the gas station. |
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Title: Re: Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates Post by Gyrobob on 12/30/23 at 16:03:15 7D464B5C4D415A5C474F425D2E0 wrote:
Another good idea |
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