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cam chain tensioner mod works (Read 1017 times)
vtail
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #75 -
06/07/07 at 10:02:12
Also the U can be made out of 3mm(1/8") steel (easy to bend/shape) and the tab to be welded on should be the same thickness as the plungerhousing attach point
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Ed L.
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #76 -
06/07/07 at 12:38:06
Strange as it seems it would be easier to bend a piece of 1/8 inch flat stock into a "u" than it would to bend two "z" bars accurately. Looks like the Tuning Fork tensioner is the way to go, simple and easy to build, it's got my vote.
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vtail
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #77 -
06/07/07 at 13:18:21
Yep and use a torch to aid in bending. (also reliefs stress)
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'07, White spacer REMOVED, 152,5 main jet, K&N drop-in filter, Mac exh, Sigma 906, ENM PT15B2 tach, factory s bags, shield, backrest/lug rack, crashbar, Kuryakyn 7980 ext hwy pegs,412-4233C+'09 C50T
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Savage_Rob
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #78 -
06/07/07 at 13:18:38
Just call it
the extensioner
.
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #79 -
06/07/07 at 13:33:23
vtail wrote
on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:
The German solution is beautifull and I give him credit for doing such a nice job, but it is complex. He also e-mailed me right away with more info. Also there's the possibility that the screw in the slotted space on bottom of the scissor-system loosens up. 't allerbeste
Goeien avond!
I did check the pictures and it seems to me that will doe the job of extending the life of the camchain.
I''m close to 3000 km since installation of Norberts system. Maybe I will open up the clutch cover to have a look-see.
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #80 -
06/07/07 at 13:41:49
Kro, when you get in there... put in a lock washer like the ones used on the crankshaft and clutch basket. I'd hate to have that thing loosen up on you.
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #81 -
06/07/07 at 14:06:57
If you are using a significant thickness of steel, just make a simple single thickness "S" form and bolt it firmly to the top of the tensioner with the flat end of the steel hitting the flat shoulder of the tensioner housing. Put a spacer under the flat pin/circlip mounting part such that the spacer and the steel thickness reference the circlip groove correctly.
Keep it simple, the only task it needs to do is reference the pin/circlip pivot point reliably and be retained by the circlip reliably.
Also, you could flip the "S" form and have it bolt up from the bottom side and then put your spacer on top to fill in the distance to the circlip if you preferred that orientation. I think the bottom side up looks stronger/better personally. Your spacer washer on top acts as a rotational force "buffer" for the circlip making sure no "pop it off" forces get transmitted to the circlip (not that it is going to be rotating very much anyway).
Illustration provided already, just mentally take half of the assembly shown here at full natural steel thickness -- it's plenty strong enough to do the job.
Oldfeller
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vtail
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #82 -
06/07/07 at 14:58:38
Yes, but you only have approx 5/8" (16mm) borespacing. I would not let the pistin more than 16mm out of the housing. Looks like it (the piston) is only 24 mm long It might be hard to bend a thick strip of metal in such a tight z bend. I like my last and bottom solution best (1/8"=3mm) flat stock with a thicker eyelet welded on. Try both yours and mine and see which one you like best
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #83 -
06/08/07 at 01:29:05
verslagen1 wrote
on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:
Kro, when you get in there... put in a lock washer like the ones used on the crankshaft and clutch basket. I'd hate to have that thing loosen up on you.
Contrarary to the installation instructions I used green loctite. When I have it open I will drill the head of the bolt and lockwire the bolt the aviation way.
Wait for pictures!
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #84 -
06/08/07 at 02:38:48
If you can bend it for a fork, you could bend it for a single sider. Same material, same bend.
Go back to the machined aluminum idea -- now just start with a piece of rectangular stock with an opposing pair of off-setting cuts made in it to make a "Z". Two holes and you are done. Now that is cheap and easy to do.
Get a piece of aluminum bar stock of the right width. Make a single pass across a router table to cut the offset on the end side. (this will be the tight toleranced fit-up to the housing) Flip it over, move it in and make another pass to cut a matching offset on the opposing side. Cut to length (this will be the loose toleranced fit up on the pin side) and drill the holes (hole on housing side positioned by a jig, center distance would have to be controlled).
We are getting there, almost got a practical cheap method to make the little piece.
Somebody with a outer housing out of their bike and in their hand draw up a dimensioned sketch for an aluminum "Z" piece and we can try to make up a prototype for tryout in somebody's bike.
Oldfeller
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Kropatchek
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #85 -
06/08/07 at 04:55:33
Maybe Tcat, the guy who is fabricating such beautifull forkbraces, can make them? Provided someone will supply him with a proper dimensional drawing.
Just a thought!
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vtail
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #86 -
06/08/07 at 08:14:05
Oldfeller you mean like my earlier drawing on page3 with one side cut off ? see;
http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/921525/
check top drawing. I cannot supply you guys with the propper dimensions since I have nothing to go by unless one of you sends me a housing which I would return afterwards.
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'07, White spacer REMOVED, 152,5 main jet, K&N drop-in filter, Mac exh, Sigma 906, ENM PT15B2 tach, factory s bags, shield, backrest/lug rack, crashbar, Kuryakyn 7980 ext hwy pegs,412-4233C+'09 C50T
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verslagen1
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #87 -
06/08/07 at 08:59:20
I haven't had time to work out the dimensions yet. But when I do, I'll either offer a kit for the extension or as I do now Modify the assembly for the extension and slot.
The main issue I have with the adjuster is that it falls apart. To fix that I've incorporated a pin and slot. To drill the hole in the plunger takes a carbide tool that requires sharpening often. It's a real SOB.
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KenGLong
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #88 -
06/08/07 at 12:54:55
vtail wrote
on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:
Oldfeller you mean like my earlier drawing on page3 with one side cut off ? see;
http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/921525/
check top drawing. I cannot supply you guys with the propper dimensions since I have nothing to go by unless one of you sends me a housing which I would return afterwards.
Now we're really getting down to brass tacks here. This is the simplest mod by far. It extends the life of the cam chain some but it doesn't prevent the plunger from falling out. Not a bad compromise.
Now, dimensions. Here's how I would determine the length of the extender piece. First, with a new cam chain and rear guide installed (and a front guide if necessary), measure the length of the exposed part of the plunger. Now remove the plunger and measure the full length. Do a simple subtraction to get the length of the hidden part. While it's removed, determine the compressed length of the spring. Now you have enough information to size the extender.
The extender length should be just long enough to cause the plunger to sit as far in the housing as possible while almost-but-not-quite-completely compressing the spring.
BTW, I think the Norbert mod will also allow more adjustment over time. That should allow you to "readjust" several times giving you a much longer chain life than this simpler mod.
Ken
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Re: cam chain tensioner mod works
Reply #89 -
06/08/07 at 13:58:14
Norbert has a great mod. And it will allow the maximum time inbetween inspections. you can adjust the projection at every inspection.
But there is only so much adjustment available. The plunger max safe projection is 18mm. It seems that most start out at 9mm. When I did my original mod, I stuck out 5mm with the tensioner in the second hole. In this second hole position, when the plunger stops, the down chain will be very near the up chain. Upon this I will base the configuration of the slot and second hole patterns. These I've already determined.
The one thing that has to be determined is use of the 1st hole. I like the idea of not mod'ing the housing in this area for ease of using the stock hole. But making a z bend as sharp as it needs to be concerns me.
The housing needs to be modified one way or another. If I'm putting in the slot anyway, it's easier for me to shave the top and bottom for the tuning fork idea. Except I'll use .06" steel plates top and bottom with a steel spacer for the second hole.
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