It's not looking dangerous,but it's time to get the stuff together & replace the chain. The measurement using the depth gauge on the digital calipers was .738 from the shoulder on the plunger to the face of the housing. This measurement was taken after I had released the plunger & shoved it back & then manually pulled it out tight. Looking at the gap between the vertical runs of the chain, it's getting pretty close. I'll guess about 1/2". Time to do it I spose.

Anyway, here's what I want to do. I would like to stick it back together while I get all the stuff together to do the job. Is it too worn to ride safely if there is .738 of the plunger poking out? It's not crooked like the pic in the forum, but I did see it thingy a bit when I tightened it by hand, just a degree or 2, nothing alarming.
Also, if it's not too worn to ride, how can i re-use the gasket? It didn't tear much. It didn't tear across the sealing surface. What bugs me is the area that goes around the oil passages. If I clean that with Berrymans then the Stickum I got at the shop ought to handle it?? I don't want to waste a $15.00 gasket just so I can ride for a week or so while parts come in.( if it leaks a bit, that's no biggeee, BUT, if it leaks back into the sump instead of oiling the top end, That's an issue for me,,)

Next question. With all the parts replacing going on, has anyone figured out just what all has to be replaced? Can an engine with 14,000 miles on it be okay with just the chain? Do I Have to replace the guides?

I guess I better go ahead & get a gasket for the top end.

When I saw the bolts for the side cover were different lengths & some had rubber backed washers I grabbed a piece of cardboard & poked holes in it with a screwdriver in the shape of the cover & poked them in the holes so I wouldn't get them mixed up.Keepin it simple, cuz, well,, you know....   Thanks folks..

Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:


Agreed, replace the chain and use your good judgement on the rear guide.

Nitpicking again:
There's 3 washers with rubber inserts.

Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:


Not at all.
It's the picture in the SSM, page 3-59 Engine, third picture from the top.
It shows the RH side of the engine and 3 "A" 's for the location of the rubber-lined washers.
Your picture shows the 2 locating dowels and an arrow with Q-mark to a place where there's no special washer.
Good quality picture though.

Greg,

  I sure appreciate your posts & pics. The current pic that shows the pilot jet will keep me from having to tear into the carb before I buy a pilot. There are 2 designs & now I know which is on the inside,, coolnisss.,

Okay, I will stick it back together & round up parts.,  

I am looking at a Used cam Chain, how much stretch is acceptable? I don't want to have to replace it in just a few months. I can't remember the measurement or how many pins are to be measured.. I think I will write that down next time I see it..

I am surely guilty of many forms of abuse on this machine, but lugging the engine has never been an issue with me. I don't like being unable to accelerate with  just the twist of the throttle, so I keep it in a gear that allows me to do that most of the time. On a rare, in town moment, on a straight stretch with little or no traffic I would allow myself to just cruise at the speed limit. The book says 5th gear & 30 mph is okay, but it doesn't feel right so I don't..

I have seen pics of different engines & some are still silvery shiny on the inside, another is a light tan from the oil. Guys, the inside of mine looks like it's been powder coated black. Like a cast iron skillet with a good & proper seasoning job done on it. I change the oil at 3,000 miles & use motorcycle grade oil. I run it free, not lugging it. Even in town I keep it a gear below what the book says I can get away with. Looks like a heat issue to me. Anyone else have an opinion? I hope it's a different opinion. I don't want it running that hot..

justin_o_guy wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:


As mentioned before: forget about the lenght of the chain, get a new one and you will see that the tensioner will be out by less than 18 mm.
Got this from the German forum, they have a lot of experience.

Some oils develop/retain soot much more than others too.

Okay, I went & rubbed on it some more, with a small magnet, too. Nothing came off,might as well be powder coated.. looks like it is. I can't imagine it being dirt. I ride the crap outta this thing, but, I change oil like clockwork, or a bit early, never late.I've Always used motorcycle oil. Last oil change I went with Yamalube 20/40 because it was handy & I was tired of the oil leak where the clutch actuator passes thru the case. It was leaking the 10/40 & that stopped it. I will replace that O-ring & go back to 10-40. I've used Suzuki 10/40 except for the last oil change.


ALSO< anyone know who has the best price on a cam chain? Is it good stuff or is it made of elastic? Are there different quality chains out there?

Would this be a place to experiment with subjecting a part to extreme cold?