Probably a meaningless measurement, but the entire clutch fiber and plate stack is 26.9mm when everything is still buttoned up and packed together.

ThumperPaul wrote on 12/16/23 at 12:55:24:

Oil level window and viewing plate.
Mine was looking just as sketchy so I pulled it out and redid it.
no gasket or o-ring, just rtv.

verslagen1 wrote on 12/16/23 at 17:42:29:


Yep...same for my bike when it only had 1,200 miles on it.  I removed the loose white sealant, cleaned the area to remove the oil, then applied Suzukibond RTV.

I would use Simple Green or Purple Power or a similar degreaser to clean the oi window and remove the oil prior to applying the RTV.  I would not spray the area with Brake Clean or acetone - I don't know if the window is glass or plastic.....acetone could damage plastic.

Thanks guys.  Dave, I was goofing when I said oily thing!  It is sketchy with the rtv looking like a broken rubber band.  Does it push in from the outside or vise versa?  Looks like it needs a refresher, but hey it ain’t leakin’!

SurvivingPhilly - you make a good point about just replacing friction discs and plates instead of cleaning.  I’ll think about it.  You’re making me think I should do something and not just be lazy and scared.

Greetings Paul.  Thanks for the update and the cool pics.  Progress.

I want to start by saying that IMO you do not have your engine at TDC.  Your pictures in replies 24 thru 26 show the reference mark for the cam drive sprocket at the 1 o’clock position.  When the crank is positioned at TDC, the drive sprocket reference should be at the bottom (6 o’clock position).

As I recall, you have never had this bike running.  If your timing marks on the alternator rotor indicate TDC, but the cam drive sprocket reference indicates close to BDC, something is wrong.  Either you have made a mistake identifying the timing marks on the alternator rotor, or possibly the drive key for the alternator rotor is missing or sheared.  If the drive key is sheared, it would explain why your engine didn’t run.

Can you double check your timing marks.  Take a picture so we can see what you have.  Illuminate the area with a flashlight and snap a pic.

See how the dimple for the cam drive sprocket reference is at 6 o’clock when the crank is at the TDC position.

Regarding your clutch cover gasket, you obviously need a new one.  I suggest you buy the OEM gasket.  It is a steel gasket with some sort of polymer coating.  It’s a great gasket, and it can be used over & over.  It’s well worth the OEM price tag.  Never mind all that gooing things up with gasket dressing.

The sealing surface for your oil filter cover O-ring looks like it might be pitted.  I suggest you clean up that surface with a mild abrasive (like a green Skotchbrite pad) and inspect it for pits.  You also want to do the same for the o-ring groove in the cover.  Any serious defects can probably be repaired with epoxy.