Once you have positioned the engine at TDC compression, drain the oil.  If your filter is new, you can probably leave it as-is, but if it is an old dirty filter, might as well take it out now.

To prepare for clutch cover removal, remove the two 6mm bolts that secure your rear brake cable to the frame.  Leave the brake cable attached to the brake pedal.  Take off your heat shield and right-side foot rest assembly, and swing the whole mess under the frame.  Just let it rest on the floor.

The two 6mm bolts are located here.

There are 12 bolts that secure your clutch cover to the crankcase.  Three of those bolts have sealing washers.  Two of the bolts have dowels incorporated to align the cover.  Those two bolts are longer.  You need to keep track of these fasteners.  Bag & tag them after removal.

Position a drip pan under the clutch cover.  Even though you have drained the oil, there is still a lot of residual oil left in the primary case.  Loosen all the bolts about three turns, then lift up on the clutch release lever and unhook the clutch cable.  Let the oil dribble out of the case for a while.  When the waterfall subsides, remove all the bolts along with the clutch cover.

The bolts with the sealing washers are circled in yellow, the longer bolts are circled in green.

You have already removed L65, C20, and the two C25s (all circled in yellow).  Those fasteners secure the chrome beauty covers.  While C20 and the two C25s aren’t too important, L65 + nut also serves to hold the head cover down.  If you decide to ditch the useless chrome beauty covers, you will need a replacement bolt to take the place of L65.  That’s pretty straight forward.

You have also removed the four L20s (circled in yellow) that secure your valve covers to the head cover.  These 20mm bolts are easy to mix up with L25.  Try not to mix these fasteners up.  The L25 bolts are subjected to load and need the extra 5mm of thread engagement.

Do not remove S30 or L16 (crossed out in red).  S30 secures your exhaust rocker arm shaft.  Leave it alone.  L16 secures your decompression shaft.  Leave that alone also.

Pay close attention to the two fasteners that reside within the confines of the engine.  Those would be L25 (circled in green).  They are located within the engine directly under the valve covers.  They are easy to miss.  Make sure you remove them before you attempt to lift the head cover.  Also take steps to prevent mixing them up with L20 as previously noted.

You probably already know that L70 can’t be removed from the head cover when the engine is still in the frame.  You have to leave it in the head cover while you remove the head cover, and it must be installed into the head cover before you reinstall the head cover.  You can’t get that fastener in or out with the engine in the frame.

Thank you, Mike!  This is excellent detail!!  I will read and refer to this multiple times!

I drained the oil today.  I should still be okay to turn the motor to find TDC without worry, right?!  I don’t want to dry hump it too much I know!

Thanks for pointing out loosening the nuts and valve adjusters.  I was meaning to ask about that.

The L70 bolt is way longer than I would have thought!  Wow!

The photos and mark ups are incredibly helpful to me!  Thank you!! I’m very much a visual and hands on person.  Really helpful!!

Broad Interior View with Clutch Cover Removed.

Cam Chain Tensioner looking like it ate a banana and getting ready to launch a missile.  It does not look trustworthy for more than another 3-4K miles with some luck.  Yeah/Nay?

Pushrod appears to be the 45.5mm length.  I captured 45.4mm in the photo because it was slipping off the very tip as I was trying to hold it and take a picture.