"I am pretty sure for an engine like the Savage it is not worth that kind of effort to weld a head, as DragBikeMike has already proven that even without welding you can start making more HP than the transmission can handle."

Absolutely correct.  It's pretty easy to make more power than the stock setup can handle.  First thing to upchuck is the clutch, then the head stud in the exhaust port, then the trans.  But there seem to be solutions for those weak points.  Armen's rule: you find your limits by exceeding them".  Wouldn't be any fun if there weren't any limits to exceed.

There is a little more to be had by filling in the dipsy doodle, but as it is you can reach a flow bias that seems to exceed accepted norms for a naturally aspirated engine.  If my memory serves me right, about 70 to 75% is desirable.  An engine with a power adder should be up around 85 to 90% (or something in that neighborhood).

That stick welding looks pretty cool.  Never heard of stick welding aluminum but it's not an application that requires a lot of strength, you just want the filler material to stay put.  Seems like the stick welding might apply a lot more heat than wire feed, but that's just a guess on my part.  I have very little hands-on experience with welding.  Why couldn't you use wire feed and just let the wire pay out farther before striking the arc.  You could flood the port with argon with a hose at the valve seats.

I definitely would be concerned about weld shrinkage.  It's gonna pull on the guide bosses and I suspect you will end up with loose valve guides.  They sell oversize guides and a special reamer, but given the fact that the bosses have been distorted by the weld I suspect the finished guides will be grossly misaligned with the seats.  It will rapidly become brain surgery, waaaaaay past any skills I have.

It is with great regret I have to conclude, that my work with the inlet port has not given the results that I had hoped. The very best I have acheived is an increase in flow rate of 7%, from 207CPM to 222CPM. The work included smoothing out rough transitions, and raising the floor to get a larger radius on the short turn.
But that is it, and after all, I have not been working with engines for my intire life, I have only been _thinking_ about them for my entire life, and there is a difference. So I will move on from now, and the next project is the exhaust. I have all along wanted to build the High flow quiet muffler:
https://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1609379913
and feed it with a 1 3/4"  45mm header. The header has now been welded up.
I is a bit too pointy for my liking, but this was the largest radius mandrel bend I could source on the planet, so for now it will have to do. My search for the correct radius bend is an ongoing endevour, since I am not into the pie style exhausts.

The sides of the port need to blend into the widened area adjacent to the valve guides.  You should be able to look into the port and not see any overhanging aluminum before the widened area.  Just as if you were training your line of sight along a wall to see if the wall is straight, you should be able to train your eye along the side of the port and see the side of the bowl.  So, the blending should start well back from the valve guide area, close to the carb flange.

There also appears to be an excess of clay.  This is difficult to determine from a picture.  I would try to remove small amounts of clay in the portion of the port leading up to the apex.  You can use a small wooden dowel dipped in water to smooth the clay surface and verify it is a straight ramp with no low spots.  It should be a straight incline running up to the apex from the intake flange.

Your bridge in the center of the port seems too wide.

This is how things should look viewed through the valve seat.

Regarding the jack bolt for the cam chain tensioner, you asked why I locate that bolt on the 2nd fin vs the bottom fin.  If you try to install the bolt on the bottom fin, there will be no material left for the spot face.  You need the spot face so that you can use a cap to lock the bolt in position and seal off the penetration.  This jack bolt system works superb.  It acts as a fixed fulcrum, so you really don't need to be concerned about leverage.

In addition to the concern over the spot face for the cap, you also do not want to thin out the material directly above the head gasket surface.  The area directly below has a lateral oil passage in the cylinder, so you want to maintain rigidity to ensure a good seal.

This is the spot face that I incorporate.

Please tell us more about your experience with the intake port.  That port really yields a big increase in power.  You should be able to get that thing flowing well.  Sorry again for not logging in and checking my messages.

That header combined with the high-flow muffler is gonna be killer good.  Very nice job on the 1.75" header.  I guess I missed the stats on the ID.  Is the ID about 1.62"?