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Finn Hammer's Savage (Read 1994 times)
FinnHammer
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #120 - 03/08/24 at 04:43:41
 
In the other end, the baffle tube will have a ring attached, and this ring will be placed close to the round part of the muffler. I hope this will look more badass than ridiculous.
The baffle tube itself will be made directly according to the design you layed down in your thread.
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FinnHammer
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #121 - 03/08/24 at 04:45:54
 
To finally answer your questions, Mike:
The bracket for the muffler is made out of a 110mm long piece of 20x20 stainless steel square tubing. This has been cut in a taper to make the muffler point slightly up at the rear end, and welded directly to the muffler.
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FinnHammer
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #122 - 03/08/24 at 04:46:48
 
You mentioned using stainless pop rivets, and I have had the same idea, but since I have the option of welding that is how I proceded. I have no doubt that pop rivets would be just as good a solution, and in that case, a Omega shaped bracked might be the solution. I would put 5-6 rivets each side.
Only problem might be to get the nuts fastened. There are nuts that rivet into a hole, don't know how to source only a couple of those, though. I just welded mine in place on the inside of the bracket.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #123 - 03/09/24 at 09:33:03
 
Thanks for the pics and sketches Finn.  Excellent job on the mounting bracket.  I have a slightly used hi-flow that I want to install on my next project.  I'm gonna try to pop rivet a bracket onto that muffler.  It has a slightly larger baffle with more perforations.  I ran it for a short time, but it doesn't have provision for an O2 sensor, so I took it off to do some testing and just never reinstalled it.  I need to modify that one with your bracket and an O2 sensor.

Are you planning to do any sort of flow testing on your muffler?
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #124 - 03/10/24 at 04:04:23
 
I could do some flow testing, but I am not quite clear about the method, perhaps you will fill me in on the procedure you use, so we get comparable results. I seem to recall that you suck in one end of the muffler through a tee, where the 3rd leg, through a tube, goes into a bucket of water to measure the depression in "H2O.
I am courious about your use of the lambda sonde, do you use it to adjust the carburettor, and what instrumentation does it take to take measurements?

Cheers, Finn Hammer
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« Last Edit: 03/10/24 at 06:30:25 by FinnHammer »  

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DragBikeMike
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #125 - 03/10/24 at 13:03:46
 
Finn, I simply set the muffler in my test bench and measure how much depression I can pull with two shop vacs.  I don't use an orifice or the inclined manometer, just pull vacuum in the normal direction of flow and see how much depression results.  The muffler with the lowest depression should have the best flow.  Since we have two completely different vacuum sources, I don't think we could learn much from comparing data.  But you could certainly use your bench to compare your before and after results.  This old post should provide the necessary info.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1605160449

I use the O2 sensor to help me dial in my carburetors.  I am always trying new things, so instruments come in handy to ensure I have the best tuning for a particular setup.  I have found that air/fuel ratios around  11.8:1 to 12.5:1 usually result in the best WOT acceleration.  I use the acceleration data along with the A/F ratio to arrive at the best size main jet.  The A/F meter also provides interesting insight into carburetor behavior, how the A/F ratio corresponds to throttle position and load.  It doesn't behave like I thought it would, so it's an excellent learning tool.

The instrument I use is an AEM 30-4110 Wide Band UEGO with Bosch LSU49 02 Sensor.  I made my own instrument housing.



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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #126 - 03/10/24 at 13:04:45
 
I install the O2 sensor in the inlet cavity of the muffler.
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #127 - 03/14/24 at 00:55:19
 
The center tube, or baffle is shown here, along with the end plug ring.
During the drilling of the many holes, I forgot how many was neded, and I ended up with 120 holes on each side of the baffle plate. Since the hole size is 4.5mm, and the target is 108 holes of 4.34mm, I selected to block off 20 holes, to end at 100 holes each side.
Nothing is pretty here, I just wanted to get the job finished in a couple of hours.
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #128 - 03/14/24 at 00:55:51
 
The clamp is similar to the solution I used on the clip-ons on my Yamaha YDS3 back then in 1972.
I did not cut the slit yet.
And those welds sure aren't pretty. But they are _my_ welds, that matters to me.
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #129 - 03/14/24 at 00:56:28
 
Here is the finished header/muffler project, this is good, because it means that I no longer need the old engine as a welding fixture, but can start to dismantle the head, cylinder and piston, and rebuild it as the high comp, funky DRcam, ported head and mikuni carb fed, beefed up clutch, high flow oilpump, modded cam chain tightener and high flow exhaust engine.

Did I forget something? Gotta be a blast!
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #130 - 03/14/24 at 04:52:41
 
Wow man, your realy killing it... Smiley
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #131 - 03/14/24 at 12:14:37
 
That is an exhaust that I have been dreaming to build for the last 10 years!  It looks great!

I have not been able to locate anyone that will mandrel bend a stainless pipe for me locally.

I bought a big rosebud torch that uses propane for fuel - I am going to try bending a pipe with sand inside.
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #132 - 03/15/24 at 09:37:20
 
Dave,

Good luck with the bending. I did a beach buggy exhaust back in 1976, in Mombasa, Kenya. It included several 180deg. bends, and it is doable. Getting the right die seems to be the problem, though.
I am looking into getting a local (well, semi-local), shop interested in doing these bends, and if they show interest, I will organise a group buy.
If not, I might even produce the die set myself, we will see. Welding them up like I did seems like too expensive in Argon and labour.

Anyway, back to the High Flow exhaust.
I did a flow test of it, and the stock muffler, at 28" depression.

Stock flows 60CFM
High Flow does 120CFM

So the change from stock should prove beneficial, but then that is already expected.

Cheers, Finn Hammer
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #133 - 03/16/24 at 10:34:44
 
That is an impressive increase in flow.  Thanks for taking the time to run it up on the bench.  Twice the flow with only a slight increase in noise, what's not to like about that?  Next time I set up my flow bench I'll have to see if I can do some tests with the orifice and inclined manometer.  

Cool the way you are covering holes with the sleeves.  You might even be able to make the sleeves adjustable so you could fine tune them.
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Re: Finn Hammer's Savage
Reply #134 - 03/16/24 at 12:52:38
 
Better flow, only a slight increase in noise, and not to forget a vast decrease in weight.

About making those sleves adjustable....
I work as a volunteer in a lokomotive workshop, (tuesday morning till noon, out in an abandoned bog moor, turned museum) where there are several motor guys too. I drilled the holes in that workshop, because there is a better drill press there and those gear heads all suggested I should make the baffle adjustable, as you also mention.
But I was too lazy to redraw the muffler, instead I stuck to the previous design, where everything is welded and stuck in place.
An idea for the next iteration.

Cheers, Finn Hammer
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