Thanks all!  

We are getting closer to the current situation, but still some other steps that we are already working on.

The start has been made for the drive of the charger.
A new bolt is machined to replace the flywheel bolt and will act as the driveshaft for the supercharger.

A bushing will be welded in the crankcase which will hold the oil seal and the rollerbearing. That is currently on the way.

The hole in the case has been centered and drilled.

That is an impressive project.  Very nice work.  Please keep the posts comin.  I'm very curious to see the finished product and to hear how it runs.  I suspect the tuning will be a challenge.  Let us know how you deal with the carburetion, advance curve, boost, etc.

How many pounds of boost do you think it can handle?

Parts are being created for driving the charger, so currently waiting on these.  

Therefore I have been shopping to find some goodies for the bike.  As stated multiple times already    , one of the goals for the bike is to make ik look as nice as possible. So with this in mind...  







It was quite a search trying to find Ohlins dual shocks that have the correct lengt for my application. With the correct look and would also still work with such a light bike as the Savage.

Basically I looked for the correct height with the lowest N/mm rate for the springs..  and corresponded this to which bike they are used for. Mainly checking the weight of the model.
After a lot of scrolling on the internet I landed on the Öhlins STX for a Kawasaki ZRX 400.

The preload can be dialed back quite a bit, and softer springs are available if it is still too harsh.  We'll just have to see.

They have been test fitted and it looks amazing! (did not take any pictures) Do need to make some small changes to the lower shock mounts on the bike.

During further fabrication solid rods will be placed on the bike to not damage the shocks. So it will be quite some time before they are back on.

The shocks were also needed to measure the available space between the seat and the tire on maximum compression because in between something will be fitted.  




And with the arrival of the latter, we can also continue with the front brake project.
The original brackets for the brake will be removed.. and a new one will be fabricated.  

All the interesting and fancy stuff.. including SC and exhaust etc will be on the left side of the bike. So the side stand will be moved over to the other side of the bike..

An added benefit is that if any possible leakage might happen with the supercharger driveshaft coming through he statorcover (even though we are placing a seperate seal) this should help.




More stuff is about to arrive!

Bling bling!!  I wanted Ohlins on my Kawasaki, but just couldn't justify the expense.  They are very proud of their shocks...

TheSneeze wrote on 10/31/23 at 16:39:25:


True! But after some searching online I found a shop in Estonia (of all places) that was very reasonable priced. After some digging around it seemed legit. Also ordered the brembo caliper there. Saved me hundreds of euros. Shipping wasnt too bad either.  
Internet can be a wonderful place  

I think it's all very nice for someone who says he has no manufacturing skills, and I think you do.

But when I look at the front brake that you are changing, I am a little concerned about safety when you soon tear down the roads with your Savage.

Let me tell you what I see:



Because you have created an opening here, the disc now only has 4 stable spokes left. I don't think that is desirable.  

For example, if I look at a Ducati monster 600 the disc has 10 stable spokes.

 


And now I see your brake caliper suspension, and it's being pulled instead of pushed. And then I look at the forces that arise there.



The arrow represents the braking force.
If only A were there, you would have lost the caliper after 1 braking attempt. Because A bows.  

So all the force is largely exerted on B. And you had welding done there, so there are welding stresses there.  
The plate you are using seems to me to be no more than 10mm / 8mm?


The metal most susceptible to metal fatigue is aluminum. Aluminum tends to fatigue quickly when subjected to repetitive loads, such as alternating stresses or loads that vary cyclically. This is because aluminum has a relatively low fatigue limit compared to other metals, meaning it is prone to developing cracks and structural degradation with repeated loading.



I wonder what would happen if you stirred the oxygen tanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bti9_deF5gs



.

zev is right about the bracket and his concerns are compounded by the weld as you need to reduce the margin of strength by an additional 20%.

If this is going to be a hardly ridden show bike, then it's fine, just take it easy on that front brake.

If I were doing it, I would've doubled the distance from the fork to the caliper and extended the material above the braking force line.  this would eliminate the bending forces from the bracket.  and minimized the stresses to the weld.

Welding cast aluminum is always more difficult than rolled aluminum. It contains much more contamination, also in the form of trapped gases. You must, as it were, first degas the cast part with your flame before adding a welding rod.
But that puts a lot of heat into the part and I think the welder was afraid of distortion and sagging.

I would have attached the brake caliper to the original mounting points using an adapter.
Then the leg will not deform and nothing will get stuck.

But a must say, the desing looks very nice...