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Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor (Read 1167 times)
Yazman
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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #75 - 10/03/22 at 17:06:03
 
WOW! I popped on the carb as it came out of the box (50 &170 jets), and this carb is AMAZING. My old carb was good at 65+ degrees, poor at 60 or below degrees (full choke for 20+ minutes and still not running right ), but this carb blows the old one right outta the water. I didn't need any choke, ready to ride immediately, significantly more torque and acceleration (butt dyno, but for real). I'm incredibly pleased for $36.

My throttle cable is still all just flopping around. The metal tube doesn't even touch the top of the carb, so there's like a quarter inch where it's just the braided cable exposed. It works for now ok though.

Thanks ThumperPaul for bringing me up to speed with all those tubes. I was nervous thinking about where they all hook up lol.

Is anyone surprised the 170 & 50 jets worked so well? Feels like everyone uses way smaller jets  Here's the details:

Bike: 2011 RYCA
Mods: pod filter, flow through exhaust, PWK38
Temp: 60F
Rider: 150lbs
Gas: 87 octane
Miles: about 10k
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2011 RYCA - 94mm flat top Wiseco, stage 3 cam, PWK38, open exhaust, UNI filter, 14/52 chain drive
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #76 - 10/03/22 at 17:27:43
 
Yes, I am amazed that those giant jets worked well.  I will address your prior questions first.  I caution you about the GIANT jets.  If it runs good with a #170/#55 combo, something is probably not right.

Yazman, the four tubes on the side and top of the carb are bowl vents.  These carbs are intended for 2-stroke dirt bikes (probably 400 – 500cc).  As such, they have a quad-vent system to keep the engine from flooding as the beast bounces along over big ruts and jumps.  It also helps when you fall down, keeps the engine from flooding while you pick up the bike.  As ThumperPaul says, you can plug the two on the side, like this.
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PWK_Vent_Nipples.jpg

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DragBikeMike
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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #77 - 10/03/22 at 17:28:20
 
And the two on top can be routed up into your frame backbone just like the stock carb.  Again, just like ThumperPaul says.  It should look like this.
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Vent_Tube_Route_001.jpg

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DragBikeMike
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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #78 - 10/03/22 at 17:30:08
 
The tube off the bottom of your float bowl is an overflow.  It should be routed straight down like this.  Make sure it exits below the engine and away from the exhaust.
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Overflow_Tube_001.jpg

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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #79 - 10/03/22 at 17:30:49
 
I would not epoxy your cable.  Just let it swivel.  If you epoxy the cable, you won’t be able to screw the top of the carb on & off.  I run a Barnett cable and it runs below the frame tube, like this.
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Cable_Route_1.jpg

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DragBikeMike
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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #80 - 10/03/22 at 17:31:20
 
The cable runs under the frame backbone and to the right side, similar to the stock cable routing.
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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #81 - 10/03/22 at 17:31:52
 
Then it runs under the decomp solenoid und up through the forks just below the headlight.  Again. Same as the stock cable run.  I use a small adel clamp to support the cable and keep it off the head cover.  The clamp doesn’t grip the cable.  The cable is free to slide in & out of the clamp.  The clamp just supports the cable.
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Cable_Route_3.jpg

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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #82 - 10/03/22 at 17:32:40
 
You might wanna PM Fast650 to see how he routed his stock cable and see how he dealt with the elbow issue.

Regarding the “clip”.  What clip are you talking about?  If it’s the “e-clip” that ThumperPaul mentions, that would be this.
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PWK_Needle__Clip_Problem_markup.jpg

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DragBikeMike
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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #83 - 10/03/22 at 17:33:28
 
Note that there are five grooves in the slide needle.  Those grooves along with the e-clip provide fine adjustment for your mid-range mixture.  Placing the e-clip in the top groove will provide the leanest cruising mixture.  Placing the clip in the bottom groove will provide the richest cruising mixture.  The middle groove is a good place to start.

The e-clip is captured under the contraption that your throttle cable hooks into.  This shows the assembly with the e-clip in the richest position.  The special cable hook contraption is threaded into the slide.  Once installed, the e-clip and slide needle are captured.
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PWK_Slide__Needle_Assy_2_002.jpg

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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #84 - 10/03/22 at 17:34:17
 
The special white nylon collar locks the cable into the hook contraption so that it can’t come out.  Don’t forget that nylon collar.  It’s a real juggling act getting all this stuff together.  Be careful, you don’t want the throttle to hang open.  Test it thoroughly to make absolutely sure that it ALWAYS closes completely when the twist grip is released.   This shows how the white nylon collar gets assembled.  Unfortunately, you have to install the hook contraption into the slide before you install the cable, spring and collar.  Its significantly more difficult that this photo implies.
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Contraption__Spring_on_Cable_2_001.JPG

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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #85 - 10/03/22 at 17:35:16
 
As you can see, all the stuff is deep down inside the slide.  Hard to work in there.  There’s a little tab in the white nylon collar that has to go in the cable slot.  As I mentioned, a real juggling act.  Again, be careful, test it thoroughly, make sure the slide returns to the closed position.
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Cable_installed_and_captured_2_001.JPG

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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #86 - 10/03/22 at 17:36:44
 
I wouldn’t try to ride it very far with those jets.  A #170 main and a #55 pilot are gonna foul your plug in short order.  Get a proper set of jets in there.  Probably best to have a #135, #138, #140, #142 & #145 on hand for tuning the main circuit.  A #35 pilot jet should be fine (probably just a tad rich but it’s the smallest available).  Can you post some pics of the interior of your carb so we can all see what’s in there?  I want to make sure you don’t have a main jet setup like Theduderino has.

Yes ThumperPaul, the #140 main, #35 pilot, and clip in the 4th groove from top are good for starters.  The clip can go in the 3rd or 4th groove.  Just keep an eye out for lean surge at cruise.  If you got any of that goin on, just raise the needle one-groove.

BTW, I have found the generic jets offered by Jets-R-Us to be just fine.  They are good quality and half the price.
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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #87 - 10/03/22 at 17:43:52
 
Regarding your condition where the engine runs great with a #170/#55 jet combo, if it runs great with those jets there’s a good chance you have a whopper of an air leak, or some sort of other crazy situation.  Be careful with it.  It should fall flat on its face when you go WOT.  Try testing it with the main jet removed (don’t lose the brass washer above main jet).  Make sure it runs crappy at WOT.  If it still runs good with the main jet removed, you might have a needle and/or needle jet that control flow at WOT.  That’s no good.  The main jet must control fuel flow at WOT.  Pictures please.
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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #88 - 10/03/22 at 17:48:54
 
Yazman wrote:

"My throttle cable is still all just flopping around. The metal tube doesn't even touch the top of the carb, so there's like a quarter inch where it's just the braided cable exposed. It works for now ok though."

DANGER.  Must fix.

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Yazman
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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 4 Carburetor
Reply #89 - 10/03/22 at 17:56:56
 
Thanks for the detailed info! I'll have to wait until I get another hour of free time to open up that carb again (kids, work, etc). I have some pictures of the jets though.

First jet:
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2011 RYCA - 94mm flat top Wiseco, stage 3 cam, PWK38, open exhaust, UNI filter, 14/52 chain drive
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