In a thread started by WunGun “Clunky/Tapping Engine Sound (10/17/20)”, I responded to a post by jd290 that asked if the head could be removed without removing the engine from the frame.  At that time, I was confident that the engine would have to come out of the frame.

Niceast came back with a post stating that he had removed his head with the engine still in the frame.  I asked how he accomplished that, and also reached out to the rest of the forum.  No reply.  I’m sure some of you already know that Niceast is correct.  You can remove the cylinder head without removing the engine.  I humbly stand corrected.  A BIG shoutout to Niceast.

With the engine in the frame, there is only 2-1/16” clearance between the intake valves and the frame (maybe 2-1/4” if you hold the scale straight up & down).  On my head, the valves are a bit taller than the stock valves.  With a stock cylinder head, this measurement would probably be more on the order of 2-1/8”.

The left-rear stud is shorter.  The head could be removed with the left rear stud in place, but it would be tight, and there would be risk of gouging the head gasket sealing surface.

If you modify an M9x1.25 nut you can use it to get a grip on the stud without chewing up the threads.  Use a hacksaw to cut through one side of the nut and partially through the other side.

It works on the left-rear stud too.  Again, takes patience but works OK.

Once the rear studs are out, there’s enough room to remove the cylinder head.  The rear chain guide makes things a bit clumsy.  I suggest you remove the rear chain guide before attempting to lift the head off.

It’s the freeway of love.  Nothin in the way now.

Wooden wedges work great for breaking the base gasket joint.  The wedges spread the force out over a large area, and they are soft, so they don’t chew up the finish on the engine case or cylinder.