I can't remember if its metal or a plastic material but basically it just sits in the float bowl at what I can only guess is at or above float level and prevents splash up.

Usually the baffle clips to a boss mount at the main jet. Everyone I’ve seen is plastic.

Spammy,  I got the EEN from Jets-R-Us.  

I just checked their website and I see that there is a place marker between the EGN and the ECN.  I believe that place marker is for the EEN.  As I recall, the EEN was listed when I purchased.  It had to have been listed, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to order it.  My invoice is dated 1/28/20, part number N427-48-EEN/017-455.  Did you try calling Jets-R-Us?

To me, the needle delivered with the carburetor was suspect.  Keihin and Mikuni genuine parts usually have their part number and logo.  The needle that came in my PWK had no markings whatsoever.  Plus the grooves were wider and the e-clip was too wide for the replacements.

You might also try Sudco.  They sell the PWK too.

It would be a shame if you can't get the needle because the carb runs sweet with that EEN.  I believe it will probably run OK with the ECN too, but the needle might end up in the max lean position.

I was very careful when I measured the needle delivered with the carburetor.  It required some simple trigonometry to calculate the angle.  It works out to exactly 2 degrees.  I'm very confident that the needle that came with the carb is a EGN or equivalent.  It was also too lean.  My notes show I was able to get it rideable with the EGN by placing the clip in the lowest groove.  Might be able to dial it in with a washer or two under the e-clip.

DragBikeMike wrote on 04/05/20 at 01:44:32:
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Jets-r-us... LOL RANT coming!

They say "All sales are final" for good reasons.  They are saying don't oder if you don't know what you want.  Make sense.  What doesn't make sense is that when they send me the wrong jets as in not the ones I ordered and not the ones listed on packing slip.  They expect me to pay to send them back.  But they clearly state they don't take jets back because they can't sell them allegedly.  They could have been drilled out.  So why do they want it back now???  They expect me to pay for their mistakes.

How about you send me the jets I ordered and I'll throw our mistake out.  Or you pay shipping if you must have them back (even though you state you'll never take jets back).  

And yes, we are talking about $5 but it's the principle of how they decide to do business.  End rant.  

Regarding the questions pertaining to the baffle for the Mikuni VM38, this is a picture of a Honda dirt-bike carburetor that Dave has been working on.  The white plastic piece is the baffle in question.  

The baffle helps to keep the fuel from sloshing away from the main jet. I've also seen baffles made from brass, and in the case of the PWK the baffle is integral to the casting.  

The baffle is typically used on off-road vehicles because they shake the carbs up pretty good.  Don't usually see the baffles on street applications.

Thanks for the pic Dave.

If the VM38 works so well, can we assume the VM36 is no longer an option?
Cheers!

So I just wanted to share a trick I figured out this week for anyone considering the 38mm PWK...

You can reuse the stock intake hose by reversing it and adding a little extension tube to the airbox. About 40mm chopped off the tapered end of a shop-vac extension tube is an absolute perfect fit. I went ahead and used a tiny bit of pvc glue, more for sealing purposes than retention, but that's probably not necessary as the fit is so good.

Hey DBM,

So, I actually just installed it yesterday. I'll let you know once I've got her buttoned up. I'm still waiting on Verslavy's tensioner and head plug mods, but have also just put in Lancer's stage 3 cam, and am currently devising how I'm going to rig up a glass pack muffler I got that is meant for a Royal Enfield.

I found install to be pretty easy overall. I chopped off the end of the stock throttle housing to the little part which fits right into the PWK. I used a cable repair kit (which works fine when soldered) to get the correct ends and length on the cable itself.