Unfortunately a knocking sound can come from many places, and they are not always easy to identify the source by just listening.  Knocks are generally created when there is excess clearance somewhere - and the sound can be easily transmitted to other engine parts without identifying exactly where the "bang" originates.

As an example - my bike had a horrible knock that could be heard from a block away.  It started out as just a tick when the bike only had 400 miles on it - by the time the bike had 1,200 miles the engine sounded like it was coming apart.  You could not isolate where the noise was located, as the sound seemed to come from everywhere.  I started at the top of the engine and took things apart looking for the source, and unfortunately I got the engine almost completely apart before I found out the flywheel nut was loose.  The flywheel would rock back and forth on the crankshaft with every power pulse - but the sound is transmitted to the crankshaft and travels through the bearings and into the engine block...so the entire engine block would pulse with the sound.

You really need a good mechanical mentor to help you learn how to analyse and diagnose this issue - somebody who can actually be there to listen and look with you.  (Where do you live?).

I'm in Atlanta.
I work at a HD, with Eaglerider.
The only mechanics I have around me are HD techs.

Sounds like a horrible rod knock to me and I would bet on that it's the upper rod bearing because of the sound.  Crank bearings normally don't knock that loudly and a lower end bearing would most likely have a deeper tone too it.  The upper bearing is the smallest bearing in there and it is the most likely to rust in the presence of moisture because it is exposed to oxygen.  The lower rod bearing and main bearings are larger and likely covered in oil/water which means they would most likely not fail as soon as the rod bearing.

If my suspicions are correct, you might be able to fix it with as little as a wrist pin, upper rod bearing, and a few gaskets.  I would be worried about the rest of the engine parts, but if you don't have the money you could tear it down and try it.  I would probably hone the cylinder and throw a set of rings in it while it's apart.  

Of course, this is just a guess. It's what I would expect to find if I took it apart.  You can do this for a fair bit of work and a little bit of money.  If things look worse as it comes apart, you can do a full rebuild, look for a used motor or even another bike.  If it looks like you can do it on the cheap, cross your fingers and hope the rest of the bearings don't fail prematurely.  

Yes, I have a Clymer's manual.

Upper rod bearing wrist pin? Any pics or part numbers?

Thank you for the info guys.

no bearing for the wrist pin.

PIN, PISTON
12151-14A01

And am I to understand that it has no bearing as in I don't need to worry about purchasing that part? So essentially, the crankshaft (good, used if it can be found) and the wrist pin with a set of gaskets. IF it is a lower end knock.
also, a used Crankshaft if it is a ball and roller bearing?

In the meantime, checking valves, rechecking tensioner, and whatever i can see from the top end whilst still in the frame.
From there, if no visible issues, check flywheel, and if nothing there, start tearing down the engine?

Am i following?

Not buying any parts just trying to price things and plot out a work timeline. I have to move my bike out of the garage in about a wk as we are closing up for the winter season so, trying to get as much done as I can while I  have access to a lift and all the tools i need.

I just want to be sure of what may potentially lie ahead.
I will be going through the aforementioned steps first.
I'll try to post pics tmrw.

One last question-Say I am unable to get this repair done in the next wk. How much damage am I looking at if I ride it until I can replace the (potentially damaged) crankshaft and bearings.