What do you need to do to set up your steam motorcycle?First, insulate the hell out of that white hot E-Cat X core so you don't cook your legs. You may even put the water tank over it to keep the heat way from the rider (and pre-warm the water).
Second, it is a direct drive system with a long stroke piston mated to the rear wheel. There is no gear box needed or desired.
A water injector sprays the right amount of water for the desired stroke/power into the white hot flash chamber making a very brief blast of steam that is timed to the rear wheel revolution to generate and power the piston as it hits top dead center. Area on the side opposite the power stroke is vented to allow maximum energy transfer. Existing computerized sensor tech is used to tell the injector when to squirt the water mist. Doing it this way means NO HIGH PRESSURE STORAGE TANK is needed, steam is created very efficiently and
used instantly while it is at max pressure in very small amounts.
See, all that automotive fuel injector technology does get used all over again, but instead of at 3,000-6,000 RPM it gets used at 0-850 RPM (rear wheel revolution speeds). Relatively easy to do, right? VERY efficient on the water usage, too.
No chain, no belt, no smoke, no roaring exhaust.
Chugga, chugga, chuggachuggachugga, chuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuchuggachugg
achuggaggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachuggachugga
Likely sports bike riders will want the more powerful dual acting (steam power on both down and up strokes) engines which will be more complex and might entail two white hot chamber areas, one at either end of the long stroking cylinder. This means TWO of the 20kw cigarette packs, and two water injector systems, and the steam piston gets hard driven in both up and down motions and the effective 40kw of torque to the rear wheel NOW MORE THAN DOUBLES into completely ridiculous asinine numbers just like the crotch rocket guys do love so much while the weight of the bike only goes up mebbe 15-20 pounds in total. Burnout wheelie city. A clutch system will be built into the rear wheel will allow for "clutch slip" on start up and for when you have to be stopping quickly to avoid possum and deer (and them ever pesky erratic car critters). The center of your rear wheel hub can be your flywheel mass and the outer rim can be your clutch driven portion with the rear wheel clutch doing double duty as your rear brakes.
No injector water being sprayed during braking means that the full "engine braking" that is available is both abrupt and massive, so you will be using that wheel clutch to both meter acceleration and to ABS control rear wheel engine braking. Computer control of all these functions will be needed as you aren't fast enough to keep the rear wheel rolling along properly in all the needed appropriate modes.
Having your direct drive system lock up your rear wheel in a corner is an absolute no-no after all. A one way "disaster" sprag clutch disengagement feature will likely be a required safety item. Quite a few racing bikes have this feature already as the engine braking can be too much in a hard corner, so the sprag clutch releases engine braking past a certain limited amount.
Still got separate hydraulic front brakes of course, you will still need them. Still got a battery to deal with (becomes your major issue to deal with, apart from doing a periodic de-lime on the steam chamber).
Issue with bikes will be they are far too light now, rather than too heavy. You got no engine to add mass to stuff, and the steam cylinder tube is mostly empty space. Still got your water tank, so it might get oversized a bit to help add some mass back into the system. Plastic water tank may elongate into a nice streamlined cowl system as you got no pesky radiator to deal with any more. Think of using your injection molded cowl / water tank as thermal protection for the rider and you got the main idea.
Torque with steam engines is 100% from the very first puff, so wheelies are
very possible on the light short wheel base systems that are design feasible with steam. Just like those Hayabusa got longer swing arms to handle the torque, so shall the big powerful steam cycles. Increasing the rear wheel diameter some is another possible control measure as well.
Remember all those steam locomotives in the movies having to be throttled very carefully to keep the drive wheels from spinning? Yep, that's you now. Got a computer and sensors to help with that though.
Draw a line between the rear swing arm axle and the triple tree, and that large tube between the two is your bike's structural spine, alias the steam cylinder. The circular arc that the rear swing arm travels on also defines the connecting rod length which is also in relation to your rear wheel "hub" diameter. The space below the tube (where the engine used to be) defines the water tank area.
You got you a plastic cowl over the steam cylinder that is force fed moving air to make sure your steam cylinder doesn't cook your crods. At long stoplights it does get a bit warm though, even though the cylinder doesn't run per se at stoplights.
Come spring time, you jest fill 'er up with water, put the battery back in and go. You fueled it year before last, so you are good for at least one more year of cruising around town.
You do still have to stop every hundred miles or so for piss breaks and to fill your tank with water ......
Now, re-think your Elios with this sort of steam system.