SuzukiSavage.com - bogging after valve adjustment

HighME32

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bogging after valve adjustment
10/23/14 at 23:07:26

Hi All,
I am new to this forum and new to doing all the maintenance on my motorcycle. I acquired a 2007 s40 ryca conversion from my cousin last year after coming back from being out of the country. The bike had 2K miles on it and I put an additional 6K on it. I did the valve adjustment at 4K and bike rode great up until the second valve adjustment. This time around, at 8K, I managed to destroy the timing port cover , which I replaced with a vl800 cover. When I initialy adjusted the valves, I noticed that the valves were extra loose after one rotation of the timing bolt, so I came to then conclusion that I adjusted them on the exhaust stroke and did them again. Second time around, the valves only had play on TDC and my clearances were still .04 so I put everyrhing back together. Since it took me a couple of days, I plugged all of the hoses but didn't cover the holes on my petcock. I did the work in my parents garage which tends to be a little dusty. After test driving the bike I noticed it would bog on higher rpms, not a lot, but one hiccup or so. The bike didn't sound abnormally loud and the ticking of the valves sounded normal. I put seafoam in the gas tank just in case any tiny dust particles got into the tank. I then adjusted the idle screw to try to resolve the issue. The bike sounded a bit deeper than before the valve adjustment which I am guessing is because they were much tighter before the adjustment. When i test drove the bike it intially seemed to be running ok but still sounded a little deeper. Then today on another test ride I noticed it bogging ahaun so I adjusted the pilot screw as recommended in this forum. It sounds a lot better, but in 2nd gear at low rpm while accelerating it gets 1 hiccup-bog. What do you guys think it is? Should I redo the valve adjustment? Adjust the pilot screw a little more, leaner or richer? Clean out the carb, dismantle or seafoam? Or could it be the cam tensioner issue? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. BTW thanks to all of you for the helpful threads.

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justin_o_guy2 Serious Thumper Offline What happened? Posts: 55279 East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.	Re: bogging after valve adjustment Reply #1 - 10/23/14 at 23:22:13 Is there a chance you got some clown gas and that's making it run funny? Not accidentally running on 1/2 choke,?
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HighME32 Junior Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 93	Re: bogging after valve adjustment Reply #2 - 10/23/14 at 23:52:38 No, choke was all the way in and got 92 at Mobil right after valve adjustment.
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Dave

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Re: bogging after valve adjustment
Reply #3 - 10/24/14 at 03:33:19

Unless you have installed a Wiseco piston....you should not be using 92 octane fuel. The stock piston is low compression, and is supposed to run on regular. Premium fuel often sits in the tank at the station much longer than regular as less folks use premium.....and it can be old when you buy it. Before you do anything else.....I would drain the tank and try some fresh regular 87 octane gasoline.

The fuel mix screw is for the idle mixture, it has no effect once you have opened the throttle more than about 1/8th of a turn. You should adjust the screw so that you get the smoothest running engine at idle speed....then leave it alone. You can open it up a 1/4 turn more to help reduce backfiring - but that will also reduce your fuel mileage a bit.

Seafoam can clean out deposits left from evaporating fuel.....not sure it is very effective at cleaning "dust".

If the bike was running fine before the valve adjustment......and is not running fine now......I would certainly want to confirm the valves are adjusted properly.

If the valves are proven to be adjusted properly, I would clean the carb next in the search for the problem. If the hiccup has a pop or backfire when it happens......it might be an electrical issue.

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Serowbot

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OK.... so what's the
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Re: bogging after valve adjustment
Reply #4 - 10/24/14 at 07:49:09

Did you follow the Clymer manual instructions?...
They tell you to rotate the engine the wrong direction... Undecided

...

Find other errors here...
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1119775997
Kropatchek wrote on 06/26/05 at 01:53:17:

...mistakes and/or errors that are written in the Suzuki Workshop Manual or Clymer Workshop Manual.

Here's the first one:

Rotate the engine in the direction it normaly turns.

As Greg already stated: in the same direction as the wheels turn.
OR
Anti-Clockwise (CCW) as seen from the Left Hand side of the bike.

~~(Clymer= Rotate Clockwise as seen from the LH side)~~

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HighME32 Junior Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 93	Re: bogging after valve adjustment Reply #5 - 10/24/14 at 08:12:58 Hi Serowbot, I followed Verslagen's directions for the valve adjustment, so I turned it counterclockwise. I also followed your instructions for adjusting the pilot valve screw and it is at 2 turns out.
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Serowbot YaBB Moderator ModSquad Offline OK.... so what's the speed of dark? Posts: 28367 Tucson Az Gender:	Re: bogging after valve adjustment Reply #6 - 10/24/14 at 08:32:24 Darn!... I thought I had it... ...
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HighME32

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Re: bogging after valve adjustment
Reply #7 - 10/24/14 at 09:16:28

I also forgot to mention that I got my ryca rpm gauge fixed because the floating face plates on these chinese gauges break and sink. I ended up getting two of them and the same thing happened. Wheb I put the bike together I noticed that when I shook the wires around, the rpm needle would jump around and the bike would die because one of these wires is soldered onto the ignition coil and the connector above that wire was moving on the terminal. I secured the connector down more and the jumping rpm/dying problem went away.

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HighME32 Junior Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 93	Re: bogging after valve adjustment Reply #8 - 10/24/14 at 09:19:14 Serowbot, Do you think I should turn the pilot screw in a 1/4 turn or take it back to 1.5 turns. My rpms are at about 1150- 1200 rpm
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HighME32

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Re: bogging after valve adjustment
Reply #9 - 10/24/14 at 09:26:49

Hi Dave,
Sorry, I didn't see your 2nd post. I will start using 87 from now on. There is no pop or backfire when it has a hiccup. It just seems like the powerband is disrupted and really feels like the bike hiccups once on the way to higher rpms on 2nd gear. I dont think there is much dust in the fuel, so I am not too concerned with it. The bike was backfiring a little more on lower rpm gear changes after I adjusted the screw. Should it turn it out a 1/4 turn?

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HighME32 Junior Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 93	Re: bogging after valve adjustment Reply #10 - 10/24/14 at 09:30:20 I will take it apart again and check the recheck the clearances. I will also check the compression once I get this tester from amazon. Do you guys think 8K miles is a necessary time for the Verslavy? Also, can I do the seafoam in the vaccum hose from the petcock or should I take entire carb out and take it apart?
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Serowbot

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OK.... so what's the
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Re: bogging after valve adjustment
Reply #11 - 10/24/14 at 09:40:34

HighME32 wrote on 10/24/14 at 09:19:14:

Serowbot,
Do you think I should turn the pilot screw in a 1/4 turn or take it back to 1.5 turns. My rpms are at about 1150- 1200 rpm

The idle mix screw only really affects running at idle... so I don't think it'll be a factor in correcting your problem...

I'm with Dave,... if you are sure of your valve settings,... I'd be thinking it's in the carb... possibly a sticky slide...

Has the bike been sitting for any extended period of time?...

...or possibly some bad gas... Premium fuel sells less, and often remains in the station tanks for a longer time..
You might try dumping it into your car, where it will be diluted in the larger tank... then put some fresh regular gas in yer' bike... Wink

...

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justin_o_guy2

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What happened?

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Re: bogging after valve adjustment
Reply #12 - 10/24/14 at 10:04:35

Im with Row,, The simplest thing is eliminate a potential problem with the gas.. Dump it, get some fresh Regular, dump the carb bowl, too, and dump it in a clear catch,, see if theres crud in it,,
You can pull the hose from the carb and set a one gallon gas can on a short, heck,, anything,, whatever gets it up high enuff to get the hose into either th gas cans nozzle or the can, w/o the nozzle.. If its the stock petcock, Prime will dump the tank,, It mite go faster w/ the gas cap off,,
I kbow Ive seen mine run but wouldnt take rolling on the gas,, Itd idle fine,, but dial up the beans and itd start gagging,, Dumped it, drained the carb, put fresh gas in and Violas,, Its Alive! Its Alive!

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Dave

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Re: bogging after valve adjustment
Reply #13 - 10/24/14 at 10:10:14

HighME32 wrote on 10/24/14 at 09:19:14:

Serowbot,
Do you think I should turn the pilot screw in a 1/4 turn or take it back to 1.5 turns. My rpms are at about 1150- 1200 rpm

No one can tell if you need to turn the air screw in or out....you need to adjust the screw based on what the engine wants.

Here is a video that shows you how to adjust the idle mixture. You have a fuel screw - so turning the screw out makes it richer and turning the screw in makes it leaner. If you can turn the screw all the way in and the bike will still run - your Pilot Jet is too big. If you have to turn the screw out more than 3 turns to get a good idle - your Pilot Jet is too small.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zm5mB3R8Ucw

Your idle speed should be a bit low for this adjustment, if the idle is too high then the needle jet will be supplying some fuel and it will make it impossible to set the idle mixture correctly. Try 1,000 rpm and if you can't get it to respond drop it a few more. This is the only time you should idle your bike below 1,000.....and it should only take a few minutes. Then crank the idle speed back up over 1,000.

If you can get the idle mix correct, and your bike still runs erratically - most likely it is not the Pilot Circuit or mixture screw adjustment.

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HighME32

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Re: bogging after valve adjustment
Reply #14 - 10/24/14 at 10:25:03

Thanks for the advice guys! This weekend I will check the valve clearances, drain and inspect the gas, change it with regular, torque the head bolts, clean the k&n filter again, check the compressionand clean the spark plug. Do you guys recommend using seafoam to clean the carb? By this, I mean starting the bike, unplugging the vacuum hose from the petcock squirting in 1/3 of a pint into the carb, letting it sit for a few hours or over night, re attaching the vaccum hose and letting all the white smoke blow by? Or should I just dismantle the carb and clean it out?

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