Personally,.. I wouldn't recommend Seafoam for anything...
...but, especially not 1/3 pint directly...
... a few teaspoons in a full tank if it makes you feel better,... but even that's a waste... Regular gas already has cleaning additive packages when you buy it...

Good idea Dave. So before I take everything apart, I will drian and replace the gas. Then check the float bowl for debris. Only rhing about the gas is that Ive been using 92 for over 6K miles and never had any problems. I will probably recheck the clearances and compression while I am at it for piece of mind. I do notice a tiny bit of oil leak from the cylinder to head bolt next to the carb manifold. Looks more like gunk than fresh oil. Also, when checking the torque of the head bolts, should I take bolts out and cover threads with motor oil or just check if torque is to spec? BTW does anyone have a picture diagram of all the head bolts that need to be checked just to make sure?

Sounds to me like your carb may have been clogged up a bit from all that sitting....and the fuel has evaporated and gummed things up a bit.

I use 92 octane in my bike - as I have a Wiseco piston and need the octane.  You don't need the octane rating and the stock engine will run just as good on the lower octane (maybe better).  And you are most likely going to get fresher fuel if you run regular 87 octane.  Having the engine dormant with fuel in the float bowl is not a good thing.  At the end of each ride I shut the manual petcock off about a mile from my house, and the bike is out of fuel when I pull into my drive.  If you have the stock petcock you can't do this - but if you know the bike is going to be dormant for a few weeks or month you can drain the float bowl by opening the drain screw at the bottom of the float bowl.

I am not sure anyone really recommends checking the head stud nuts for proper torque......they never do loosen, and to get proper torque you need to take the nut off and clean the threads (one at a time), and apply anti-seize or oil to lubricate the threads before you torque the nuts.  You also can't torque the front right nut without removing the head cover.  Trying to torque the nuts without removing and cleaning them first will do nothing - as they will be corroded a bit and most likely the torque wrench won't even begin to budge them when set a the required torque value.

Dave

The float bowl has a gasket.  Sometimes they don't tear...sometimes they do.

I'd put it on the bench and clean it,all the way. Clean and dry on the slide, no fingerprints even.

I never did need any.. I opened it up a few times.

I just picked up on this thread and am wondering if you have changed over to a Raptor petcock yet. Your symtoms of having the engine stumble is simular to when my stock petcock started to fail.

Pulling the tank off to get at the valves could of damaged the stock petcock, they really aren't built very well and leak for no real reason except being crap to start with.

Your compression sounds fine at 135psi.

I had almost 17 mm showing on my cam chain adjuster at just over 10,000 miles. depending on your riding style your's might be due soon.

Sounds like you set the valves correctly, if they are too tight the engine just doesn't run right and gets a lot worse when warmed up.
Remember as the engine warms up the clearences close down due to metal expansion so a little loose is better than a little tight.
.004 go/.005 no go is fine for the valve lash, just don't go any tighter.

If you have a Raptor then cleaning the carb would be next. I would start with pulling the bowel and blasting out the underside with some carb cleaner. If that doesn't work then pull the carb and clean it.

Don't make the job any harder than it needs to be.