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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> bogging after valve adjustment /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1414130846 Message started by HighME32 on 10/23/14 at 23:07:26 |
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Title: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/23/14 at 23:07:26 Hi All, I am new to this forum and new to doing all the maintenance on my motorcycle. I acquired a 2007 s40 ryca conversion from my cousin last year after coming back from being out of the country. The bike had 2K miles on it and I put an additional 6K on it. I did the valve adjustment at 4K and bike rode great up until the second valve adjustment. This time around, at 8K, I managed to destroy the timing port cover , which I replaced with a vl800 cover. When I initialy adjusted the valves, I noticed that the valves were extra loose after one rotation of the timing bolt, so I came to then conclusion that I adjusted them on the exhaust stroke and did them again. Second time around, the valves only had play on TDC and my clearances were still .04 so I put everyrhing back together. Since it took me a couple of days, I plugged all of the hoses but didn't cover the holes on my petcock. I did the work in my parents garage which tends to be a little dusty. After test driving the bike I noticed it would bog on higher rpms, not a lot, but one hiccup or so. The bike didn't sound abnormally loud and the ticking of the valves sounded normal. I put seafoam in the gas tank just in case any tiny dust particles got into the tank. I then adjusted the idle screw to try to resolve the issue. The bike sounded a bit deeper than before the valve adjustment which I am guessing is because they were much tighter before the adjustment. When i test drove the bike it intially seemed to be running ok but still sounded a little deeper. Then today on another test ride I noticed it bogging ahaun so I adjusted the pilot screw as recommended in this forum. It sounds a lot better, but in 2nd gear at low rpm while accelerating it gets 1 hiccup-bog. What do you guys think it is? Should I redo the valve adjustment? Adjust the pilot screw a little more, leaner or richer? Clean out the carb, dismantle or seafoam? Or could it be the cam tensioner issue? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. BTW thanks to all of you for the helpful threads. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/23/14 at 23:22:13 Is there a chance you got some clown gas and that's making it run funny? Not accidentally running on 1/2 choke,? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/23/14 at 23:52:38 No, choke was all the way in and got 92 at Mobil right after valve adjustment. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Dave on 10/24/14 at 03:33:19 Unless you have installed a Wiseco piston....you should not be using 92 octane fuel. The stock piston is low compression, and is supposed to run on regular. Premium fuel often sits in the tank at the station much longer than regular as less folks use premium.....and it can be old when you buy it. Before you do anything else.....I would drain the tank and try some fresh regular 87 octane gasoline. The fuel mix screw is for the idle mixture, it has no effect once you have opened the throttle more than about 1/8th of a turn. You should adjust the screw so that you get the smoothest running engine at idle speed....then leave it alone. You can open it up a 1/4 turn more to help reduce backfiring - but that will also reduce your fuel mileage a bit. Seafoam can clean out deposits left from evaporating fuel.....not sure it is very effective at cleaning "dust". If the bike was running fine before the valve adjustment......and is not running fine now......I would certainly want to confirm the valves are adjusted properly. If the valves are proven to be adjusted properly, I would clean the carb next in the search for the problem. If the hiccup has a pop or backfire when it happens......it might be an electrical issue. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Serowbot on 10/24/14 at 07:49:09 Did you follow the Clymer manual instructions?... They tell you to rotate the engine the wrong direction... :-/... Find other errors here... http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1119775997 734A5748594C5B505D53380 wrote:
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/24/14 at 08:12:58 Hi Serowbot, I followed Verslagen's directions for the valve adjustment, so I turned it counterclockwise. I also followed your instructions for adjusting the pilot valve screw and it is at 2 turns out. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Serowbot on 10/24/14 at 08:32:24 Darn!... I thought I had it... ;D... |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/24/14 at 09:16:28 I also forgot to mention that I got my ryca rpm gauge fixed because the floating face plates on these chinese gauges break and sink. I ended up getting two of them and the same thing happened. Wheb I put the bike together I noticed that when I shook the wires around, the rpm needle would jump around and the bike would die because one of these wires is soldered onto the ignition coil and the connector above that wire was moving on the terminal. I secured the connector down more and the jumping rpm/dying problem went away. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/24/14 at 09:19:14 Serowbot, Do you think I should turn the pilot screw in a 1/4 turn or take it back to 1.5 turns. My rpms are at about 1150- 1200 rpm |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/24/14 at 09:26:49 Hi Dave, Sorry, I didn't see your 2nd post. I will start using 87 from now on. There is no pop or backfire when it has a hiccup. It just seems like the powerband is disrupted and really feels like the bike hiccups once on the way to higher rpms on 2nd gear. I dont think there is much dust in the fuel, so I am not too concerned with it. The bike was backfiring a little more on lower rpm gear changes after I adjusted the screw. Should it turn it out a 1/4 turn? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/24/14 at 09:30:20 I will take it apart again and check the recheck the clearances. I will also check the compression once I get this tester from amazon. Do you guys think 8K miles is a necessary time for the Verslavy? Also, can I do the seafoam in the vaccum hose from the petcock or should I take entire carb out and take it apart? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Serowbot on 10/24/14 at 09:40:34 70515F50757D0B0A380 wrote:
The idle mix screw only really affects running at idle... so I don't think it'll be a factor in correcting your problem... I'm with Dave,... if you are sure of your valve settings,... I'd be thinking it's in the carb... possibly a sticky slide... Has the bike been sitting for any extended period of time?... ...or possibly some bad gas... Premium fuel sells less, and often remains in the station tanks for a longer time.. You might try dumping it into your car, where it will be diluted in the larger tank... then put some fresh regular gas in yer' bike... ;)... |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/24/14 at 10:04:35 Im with Row,, The simplest thing is eliminate a potential problem with the gas.. Dump it, get some fresh Regular, dump the carb bowl, too, and dump it in a clear catch,, see if theres crud in it,, You can pull the hose from the carb and set a one gallon gas can on a short, heck,, anything,, whatever gets it up high enuff to get the hose into either th gas cans nozzle or the can, w/o the nozzle.. If its the stock petcock, Prime will dump the tank,, It mite go faster w/ the gas cap off,, I kbow Ive seen mine run but wouldnt take rolling on the gas,, Itd idle fine,, but dial up the beans and itd start gagging,, Dumped it, drained the carb, put fresh gas in and Violas,, Its Alive! Its Alive! |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Dave on 10/24/14 at 10:10:14 66474946636B1D1C2E0 wrote:
No one can tell if you need to turn the air screw in or out....you need to adjust the screw based on what the engine wants. Here is a video that shows you how to adjust the idle mixture. You have a fuel screw - so turning the screw out makes it richer and turning the screw in makes it leaner. If you can turn the screw all the way in and the bike will still run - your Pilot Jet is too big. If you have to turn the screw out more than 3 turns to get a good idle - your Pilot Jet is too small. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zm5mB3R8Ucw[/media] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zm5mB3R8Ucw Your idle speed should be a bit low for this adjustment, if the idle is too high then the needle jet will be supplying some fuel and it will make it impossible to set the idle mixture correctly. Try 1,000 rpm and if you can't get it to respond drop it a few more. This is the only time you should idle your bike below 1,000.....and it should only take a few minutes. Then crank the idle speed back up over 1,000. If you can get the idle mix correct, and your bike still runs erratically - most likely it is not the Pilot Circuit or mixture screw adjustment. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/24/14 at 10:25:03 Thanks for the advice guys! This weekend I will check the valve clearances, drain and inspect the gas, change it with regular, torque the head bolts, clean the k&n filter again, check the compressionand clean the spark plug. Do you guys recommend using seafoam to clean the carb? By this, I mean starting the bike, unplugging the vacuum hose from the petcock squirting in 1/3 of a pint into the carb, letting it sit for a few hours or over night, re attaching the vaccum hose and letting all the white smoke blow by? Or should I just dismantle the carb and clean it out? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/24/14 at 10:38:30 BTW, this bike has been running 92 for 6500 miles after my cousin bought it with only 1500 miles. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Serowbot on 10/24/14 at 10:43:30 Personally,.. I wouldn't recommend Seafoam for anything... ...but, especially not 1/3 pint directly... ... a few teaspoons in a full tank if it makes you feel better,... but even that's a waste... Regular gas already has cleaning additive packages when you buy it... |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Dave on 10/24/14 at 11:18:27 Sea Foam might help on an engine that has been sitting and has some minor running issues.....and needs a bit of cleaning from gum and varnish. It should not be run into the engine in the manner you are describing - that used to be done on old engines that had sticky rings, carbon build up on the valves, etc. You don't have that kind of stuff going on in your engine. If the new fuel doesn't solve the issue, then check the valve adjustment, and drop the float bowl off the carb. Looking at the float bowl insides can sometimes be pretty revealing. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/24/14 at 11:34:11 Good idea Dave. So before I take everything apart, I will drian and replace the gas. Then check the float bowl for debris. Only rhing about the gas is that Ive been using 92 for over 6K miles and never had any problems. I will probably recheck the clearances and compression while I am at it for piece of mind. I do notice a tiny bit of oil leak from the cylinder to head bolt next to the carb manifold. Looks more like gunk than fresh oil. Also, when checking the torque of the head bolts, should I take bolts out and cover threads with motor oil or just check if torque is to spec? BTW does anyone have a picture diagram of all the head bolts that need to be checked just to make sure? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/24/14 at 11:38:16 BTW, this bike was sitting for a year before I acquired it with 1700 miles on it. After that I let it sit for a month recently while waiting to get my kickstand fixed and rear tire in. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Dave on 10/24/14 at 11:53:33 Sounds to me like your carb may have been clogged up a bit from all that sitting....and the fuel has evaporated and gummed things up a bit. I use 92 octane in my bike - as I have a Wiseco piston and need the octane. You don't need the octane rating and the stock engine will run just as good on the lower octane (maybe better). And you are most likely going to get fresher fuel if you run regular 87 octane. Having the engine dormant with fuel in the float bowl is not a good thing. At the end of each ride I shut the manual petcock off about a mile from my house, and the bike is out of fuel when I pull into my drive. If you have the stock petcock you can't do this - but if you know the bike is going to be dormant for a few weeks or month you can drain the float bowl by opening the drain screw at the bottom of the float bowl. I am not sure anyone really recommends checking the head stud nuts for proper torque......they never do loosen, and to get proper torque you need to take the nut off and clean the threads (one at a time), and apply anti-seize or oil to lubricate the threads before you torque the nuts. You also can't torque the front right nut without removing the head cover. Trying to torque the nuts without removing and cleaning them first will do nothing - as they will be corroded a bit and most likely the torque wrench won't even begin to budge them when set a the required torque value. Dave |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/25/14 at 11:47:32 Hi Dave, I am planning to replace the gas, clean out the spark plug and air filter then check the float bowl for debris before I run a compression test. After that, I plan on rechecking my valve clearances. If the problem is still there should I take the entire carb apart and clean it? Kinda hesitant to do that since it opens up more opportunities to mess things up. Also, do I need a new gasket or O ring if I drop the float bowl? Thanks! |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Dave on 10/25/14 at 17:07:10 The float bowl has a gasket. Sometimes they don't tear...sometimes they do. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/25/14 at 19:53:36 Hi all, Checked my compression today. It was at 135psi. Kinda low according to clymer. The spark plug had a good amount of carbon on it after 25 miles of test riding. Also emptied out float bowl and saw a little dirt (black particles) inside. About to check the valve clearances. Should I clean out the entire carb or just take out the float bowl and clean it? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/25/14 at 20:10:20 I'd put it on the bench and clean it,all the way. Clean and dry on the slide, no fingerprints even. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/25/14 at 20:54:43 Thanks for the suggestion Justin! You think I should get the whole gasket kit for the carb? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/25/14 at 23:38:21 I never did need any.. I opened it up a few times. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/26/14 at 00:33:10 So here is the update. Compression at 135psi. Checked the valve clearances and they are all at .004. Verified TDC by watching the exhaust valve go down, then the intake valve, then heard the air come out of the spark plug hole and perfectly lined up the marker on the timing bolt with the notch on the generator cover. I didn't feel as much play on the intake valves, but the .004 feeler gauge went through just fine. On all the valves, the .004 gauge goes through fine with a little resistance. The .005 gauge doesn't fit in any of them. I guess if all is fine with the valves, there is nothing but the gas and carburetor dimantling/cleaning left. Is my compression reading something to worry about? I also didnt clean the air filter before I did it. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Ed L. on 10/26/14 at 08:27:12 I just picked up on this thread and am wondering if you have changed over to a Raptor petcock yet. Your symtoms of having the engine stumble is simular to when my stock petcock started to fail. Pulling the tank off to get at the valves could of damaged the stock petcock, they really aren't built very well and leak for no real reason except being crap to start with. Your compression sounds fine at 135psi. I had almost 17 mm showing on my cam chain adjuster at just over 10,000 miles. depending on your riding style your's might be due soon. Sounds like you set the valves correctly, if they are too tight the engine just doesn't run right and gets a lot worse when warmed up. Remember as the engine warms up the clearences close down due to metal expansion so a little loose is better than a little tight. .004 go/.005 no go is fine for the valve lash, just don't go any tighter. If you have a Raptor then cleaning the carb would be next. I would start with pulling the bowel and blasting out the underside with some carb cleaner. If that doesn't work then pull the carb and clean it. Don't make the job any harder than it needs to be. ;) |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/26/14 at 10:23:08 If you've never had the bowl off,those bolts can be a real drag. Getting stainless,allen head replacements is a common thing around here. A dab of antiseiize goes a long way. I use it on almost every thing that screws into aluminum. A pint bottle lasts for years.. Harbor Freight has a hand held impact, set it,smack it with a hammer.. BUT, Be sure to support the little bit of aluminium that screw is in.. it Can snap off. So,if you're able to get the bowl off and leave it on the bike,you CAN see the jets, and maybe you'll be able to dodge a complete tear down and cleaning. Those heads LOOK like a #2 Phillips , but they aren't. If you will flatten the tip of a #2 Phillips until the driver sits on down and fills the X in the bolt head, you'll be a lot better off. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/26/14 at 11:17:49 Thanks Ed and Justin. So, from what it sounds like my valves are ok, right? I was thinking about doing the petcock switch, but I dont think I can find one today, since the dealerships are closed. Where can I get the allen wrench bolts for the float bowl? Should I get alumminum? I will try to just do the float bowl for now and check to see if anything is gummed up inside. If it doesn't look good will do complete overhaul. Hey Ed, so I was thinking of doing the verslavy switch, but Verslagen said it would be a lttle easier during the holidays. I am at 8000 now and was thinking of doing it on the next oil change. I do occasionally hear a metal clunking noise, but not sure if it is my muffler hitting the clutch cover (ryca cs1 exhaust). I ride 3 to 4 times a week to work, about 30 miles roundtrip. Before I knew more about this bike, I used to try to take it past 75mph, but I noticed it was burning oil that way, so now I dont go faster than 70mph (4500rpm)and drive in bumper to bumper traffic in the morning-splitting lanes. When im splitting lanes I will usually keep the rpms around 3-3500k to give me enough torque to do defensive maneuvers. Do you think 10k miles should be fine to take out the chain tensioner? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/26/14 at 11:28:30 I forgot to add that before I did the valve adjustment, I did notice the bikes rpm dropping for a second when I would lift to an upright position from being on the stand. Does this sound like a Petcock issue? The bike was running right at that time though. I also do see a lot of carbon on the top of the piston head. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/26/14 at 11:56:46 So I just read the petcock conversion thread and it sounds like it's worth a try for me. In the past i have heard and seen a little explosion of gas out of my airfilter when I shut the bike off. I will check for gas in the vaccum line today. What's funny is I called the local salvaged motorcycle parts shop down the street asking for the raptor petcock for this switch and the guy went ape$#!+ on me. He said im a follower not a leader and he should close his doors tonpeople like me for following the advice of forums. Haha. He said I sould just replace the rubber parts of my stock petcock. Anyway, I eill try the raptor. I saw a ton on ebay for dirt cheap <$10. I think I should get OEM though cuz that just sounds too cheap. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/26/14 at 12:17:50 I just read another interesting thread and my gas tank has the same meowing phenomena. Its is the ryca conversion so the tank was cut in half. Is this more evidence for the petcock? http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1412869387/6#6 |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by verslagen1 on 10/26/14 at 12:22:27 5A7B757A5F572120120 wrote:
Yup, get OEM. cause there's a version of the same petcock with 1/4" line. It'll fit except for the line and of course you have to idle where ever you go. You can follow him (who's motivation is to buy parts/services from him) or you can follow us (who's only motivation is to see you enjoy yourself) |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/26/14 at 13:19:30 If I manage to get the float bowl out, should I blue locktite the screws back on when reinstalling? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by verslagen1 on 10/26/14 at 13:51:13 73525C53767E08093B0 wrote:
NO! |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/26/14 at 15:45:16 Yeah, I read the earlier message wrong someone said antsieze. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/26/14 at 15:48:01 So about the plug for the vaccum hose, should I use a cap I can get from an auto parts store, or cut and plug the original hole? I also have some other hoses missing from the carb that arent plugged. They were probably taken out by the mechanic that worked on the bike before I got it. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/26/14 at 19:02:47 What do you guys think about running an inkine fuel filter with the raptor petcock? I saw someone post it on a thread. Any recommended brands, etc? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/26/14 at 20:18:00 Took the bowl off and cleaned it. Aside from the tiny speck of dust by the hole of the drain everything in the carb looked spotless from the bottom. I think evrything is pointing to the petcock. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/26/14 at 21:03:54 If you don't have a Raptor, it's time.. If you get one for seven dollars, go buy a real one. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/27/14 at 09:22:53 Yes I am definitely getting the OEM raptor petcock from the dealer. Also, I noticed that my cousin's mechanic took off the float bowl breather hose. Is that ok or should I put one back on? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Dave on 10/27/14 at 09:56:32 56777976535B2D2C1E0 wrote:
Well.....the stock Suzuki petcock lists for $ 95.85, and there are no rubber parts listed on the parts diagram. Maybe somebody makes a rebuild kit that will work - most likely it would cause the same problem again somewhere down the road. The genuine Raptor Petcock is about $ 20.......don't pay much less, and don't let a dealer gouge you for $ 60. You also need the Raptor 660 petcock, not one from the smaller bikes, as they hit the seam on the tank and cannot be used on the Savage. If you don't see the white box, the part number 5LP-24500-01-00, then buy it from someone else as it is most likely a fake. The real part has an brass tube with an expanded flare on the end - it is not a machined nipple with one or two ridges. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-YFM660R-Raptor-660-2001-2005-FUEL-PETCOCK-GAS-TANK-SWITCH-SHUTOFF-VALVE-/381020543550?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58b6981a3e&vxp=mtr |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/27/14 at 09:56:35 On the pictures in google it is labeled bowl vent hose (2) on samd side as vaccum hose connection to carb. The othe bowl vent hose, on the side with the choke, still has a hose. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/27/14 at 09:59:47 Thanks Dave! I think the dealer is charging $34. The OEM ones in ebay are going for about $28 with $3 shipping. I think I'll just get it from the dealer and save the wait. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Dave on 10/27/14 at 10:01:16 There are two vent hoses....one on each side and they are identical. You should have both of them on the bike.....that is why Suzuki put two of them on the bike. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/27/14 at 10:28:18 6A4B454A6F671110220 wrote:
So, as long as you follow His idea of smart, you're okay... I'd try really hard to Not be in that guys place again. Go to a Yamaha shop, I spent under 30 bucks, no wait, no freight, and, I had the old petcock in my hand,so I was certain of the fit. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/29/14 at 01:04:53 Hey Dave, I noticed that both of my vent hoses are in it's outlet or inlet that doesn't have a hose. I think it is some kind of california emissions add on to the savage carb. Can I plug it. I have no idea what it does. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Dave on 10/29/14 at 03:38:28 I dunno......I live in Kentucky! Dave |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by old_rider on 10/29/14 at 08:32:20 41606E61444C3A3B090 wrote:
I'm sure one of the guys will be able to tell you, but until then. Start your bike.... put your finger over the exposed end... if it sucks on it, its a vacuum.. cap it.... If it is pushing air out or no pressure either way, stick a hose on it and vent it with the other lines.... Was it always that way? or did you remove a line when you did the raptor? |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by verslagen1 on 10/29/14 at 08:38:20 That port goes to the carbon canister, I just cap mine. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/29/14 at 09:16:57 Hi Old Rider, The carb has been like that ever since I got the bike from my cousin, about 6K miles ago. His mechanic took it off. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by old_rider on 10/29/14 at 09:18:41 If there is no pressure coming out or going in, then cap it like the vacuum one, to keep out dirt. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/29/14 at 10:14:43 Good idea! By the way, I just installed the raptor petcock and was going to use the fram g3 filter, but I thinknit is way too big. I guess they dont make them that small anymore. Any suggestions for other good filters that are out now. I might go with 5/16 inlets if I can't find one in 3/8 that is small. That is after all the size of the carb inlet and petcock outlet. Hope everything is resolved when I testdrive today. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by Dave on 10/29/14 at 11:47:50 Why don't you trust the stock fuel screens to work well enough? The openings the fuel screens are most likely smaller than the Pilot Jet, and if you are getting deposits int the float bowl from parking the bike for a month and letting the fuel in the float bowl deteriorate.....the filter is not going to stop that. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/29/14 at 14:10:28 Hi Dave, For now I will have to, simce the filter recommended I. This forum is way too big. I cant stuff it anywhere without my leg hitting it when I ride. At least I have the raptor petcock now and can shut off my fuel and let the engine eat up the gas in the float bowl. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/29/14 at 14:12:26 Thanks for the info Verslagen! Ill plug it. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/29/14 at 15:53:06 Hi Verslagen, Quick question. I assume you have a california savage also. Sinced you plugged this cap, did it have an effect on your gas tank? I dont even know where the vent tube would be since ryca chops their tanks up. Did you have to take out the rubber gasket from your stock gas cap. I do notice the cap "meows" from time to time as another forum member stated. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by verslagen1 on 10/29/14 at 16:38:04 Yep, cali model. The hose that attached to the carb went to the carbon canister below the swingarm, I removed mine. There was also a hose that went from the carbon can to the tank, it had a connection near the carb. The vent tube connects under the tank in the tunnel, near the front. I left the vent tube on, routed it forward near the tree so I can see the end while riding, not necessary, but nice to know it ain't leakin'. My tank doesn't meow any more. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 10/29/14 at 16:56:34 My problem is my tank has been chopped and the vent tube is gone. Should I mess with the gas cap get it to vent. In an earlier thread Serowbot was talking about taking some rubbernout from the cap tonopen the vents that were shut for cali models running with those charcoal canisters. |
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Title: Re: bogging after valve adjustment Post by HighME32 on 11/01/14 at 21:34:39 Bike is running fine again. Thanks for all your help! It was definitely the petcock. Raptor is the way to go. Also removed one of the orange/red plugs in my gas cap-california model. Hopefully it vents enough. |
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