Made and welded a bigger brace to support the rear break. 50mm longer than the original.

Good point Spamy I may make a mold first then lay glass inside the mold for that smoother finish.
I thought about buying a pre made seat but i find pleasure in both the journey and the destination. Plus I wanted to apply the 1,618 divine proportions formula shown here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ_rnmB2RBI . And wanted something different from the norm.
Also I made the seat base wider for a more comfortable ride on long distance.

I was looking at they RYCA page this morning, and I saw that one buld feature on their site is also a fellow who markets their kits.  He has come up with a brake stop that incorporates the brake light switch.  This seems like a great solution and one that RYCA should start to build for their kits.  The rear brake pedal really needs a stop......so that when you release the brake the pedal rests against ths stop and doesn't rotate upwards too far.

Sorry about the photo not being too clear....it is from the RYCA website.

Good idea Dave thanks for the tip.  

caseyLA wrote on 11/06/14 at 10:46:05:


Cool!  I am glad that you have added that to the kit!

Looks good.

You can put more than one layer of fiberglass on at a time....in fact it is best to do it that way as the layers are then bonded together.  You can use some pins through the cloth and into the foam to hold the stubborn places down.....just be sure to pull them out before the resin sets up completely....and a little heat on the pin will help get them out.  You could also use some wax paper and rubber bands or bungee chords or wrap tape around the wax paper to hold things in place.  Or if you really are inventive....a plastic bag and a vacuum pump can really pull things together!

It is also best to lap the fiberglass cloth over the seams so there are no joints - as the epoxy has very little strength without the cloth.  The cloth can be cut and rolled over the edges, and you can also just pull fibers out of the matt and lay them over the seams and edges and work them down in place with a brush or roller.

It is really going to be tuff to pull the fiberglass off the form you made.  The vertical sides are going to make lots of friction and it is tall/deep.  Also without a really smooth form and a gelcoat things are going to stick.  Most likely you will need to tear your form apart......gasoline works really well to dissolve most foam and it won't hurt the fiberglass resin.

I admire the fact that you are willing to take on a task....and learn as you go.

I have a nephew that never gets anything done.....as he is so worried about making a mistake along the way - that he never actually gets anything finished.  He will begin the process....but never actually finish it as the first time he encounters some resistance.....he stops.  Pretty sad.....he has tons of unfinished projects crowded in his bedroom, and that is pretty crappy for gaining any confidence or feeling of self worth.

 

The only issue I have is that the KZ1000 Police Vintage Triples only support a 3/8 handle bars. I can mill the risers off and use clipons, But can anyone tell me could I drill out the handle bar clamps to support a 1" bar? I could then run Clubmans.