Seriously? How did I miss this post?
Why was mine so much more expensive?


--Steve

grabber_blue wrote on 11/19/12 at 08:03:09:


The little Emgo filter will fit above the battery and the smallest K&N can be wedged in place with a slight detent in the filter where it contacts the battery cover top.

The kit is as pictured and delivery was in a timely manner. I had already had my stock bike partially stripped to work on it and I am a driveway mechanic by hobby, so installation time would be a moot point here. This was installed in a gravel driveway under the southern Nevada spring sun in around 2 hours.

The rubber carb flange on my 2005 was giving me some concernes with visions of stripped phillips heads, hours of drilling and tapping of frozen screws but that wasn't the case. A 1/4 drive ratchet, 8mm socket and the largerst phillips head drive bit took out the screws with realitive ease. It just took patience, hard force on the ratchet to seat the the bit in the screw slots and gentle coaxing on the ratchet handle to get the screws to cooperate. The kit supplied rubber flange was the correct size and went in place effortlessly, though I'd recomment a dab of anti-seize on the screw threads for future removal. Battery and batt box was removed prior to make room for my medium sized mitts and work to be preformed.

Mounting the VM carb was the tricky part and I had to relocate a small black box (.75 X 1.5 X 2 inches) rearward to clear the chrome 90 degree throttle cable bend that sticks out of the top of the carb. It was a matter of using 2 small zip ties to secure it to the wire harness just ahead of the fuel tank/seat tab mounting bracket to keep it from flopping around.
Pushing/twisting the VM spigot into the the rubber flange was an excersize in stregnth even with shade tree assembly lube (aka vasoline). It's tight folks, but it won't be a future source for any vacuum leaks I can guarantee. Routing/installing the custom throttle cable was rudementary and simple to do.

Battery box was reinstalled, I did have to reroute the starter hot wire (I just didn't want to fight with it). I elected to retain the original airbox, so the free space between the VM intake spigot and the airbox was just a little shorter. Even with shade tree assembly lube on the inner lip of the carbside waffle air hose, it took alot of coaxing (2 screwdrivers and a bunch of determination) to get the hose in place. The distance was shorter and the carb spigot so tight, I didn't need to use the factory hose clamps, it mated solidly against the airbox but was kink free.

There was the need of a Raptor fuel valve. The factory valve is vacuum operated and the VM doen't come equipped with a vacuum post or nipple. Luckily the local bike shop just happens to stock the Raptor as a common item. Down side of this Raptor is that it's for a Honda and the valve neck is shorter than the Yamaha one.
To make it work and seat solidly, I had to make clearance between the fuel tanks seam and the valves dial face. This was accomplished by a header installation trick to dent the seam. To bend the seam away from the valve face. I dented it (and you really have to look close to see it) by striking a large socket larger than the valve with a hammer. Center the socket with the rectangle valve hole on the seam and strike it soundly. working away from the center towards each bolt hole and checking progress by remounting the valve after every swing, making sure I wasn't over doing the modification. It now sit as it should and the denting is not noticable and no paint was harmed in the process.

After a warm-up and pre-tuning, the test ride came to fine tune the VM. I will admit that the feel and response is different like a whole other bike.
The VM is a two stage system, idle and main jets which makes even a dumb ass like me able to tweak the carb. After a few streets and noting throttle response, I had the enrichener/air screw dialed in and RPM at idle between 800-1000. It's not a Harley, so I did not want the dying lope of the idle sound and wanted the upper end to get proper lubrication. If you want a Harley sound, buy a Harley cause this thumper is a breed of it's own (and prone free of roadside retightening of fasteners rattled loose).

Hats off to LANCER, his kit and a great ride with snappier response to a slight twist of the throttle. I am a happy camper.

SinglesGoinSteady wrote on 04/26/13 at 10:09:22:



The VM carb in the kit is not a pumper and it can be made to fit a RYCA conversion with the right filter.  The new RYCA battery box sits pretty close to the carb, whether using the stock CV carb or a replacement like the VM carb.  RYCA supplies a small flat round type filter which I think is too small, especially if using the VM carb; the little filter does not flow enough air.  A larger flat round filter like used on the VM carb for HD's is a better choice.
K&N # RC-0850

LANCER wrote on 06/09/12 at 08:02:10:


Would this carb be up to feeding a turbocharged 650 application?

I am going to stick my nose in this.......I got a few opinions about the turbocharger set up.

Stay with the stock piston.....you want the low compresssion to give room for the turbo to work. If you go with a Wiseco you will have too much initial compression....combine that with a  Turbo and you won't be able to buy fuel that will work....unless you switch to alcohol.
Use a VM36 or VM38 carb.  Unless you are racing and running wide open most the time.....you need the ability to have a good idle and good mixture control at riding speeds.  At normal riding speeds you will not be moving enough air through a larger carb to have it meter accurately.
Don't get too big of a cam....stock or Stage 1 is probably fine.  You don't want a big duration as you will just be pumping unburned fuel out the exhaust.  You are also unlikely to make the engine safely turn much faster.....so you are looking to get more power in the existing 6,500 rpm and under.

Dave wrote on 06/18/13 at 04:45:47:


Dave, a question I had was whether the higher pressures of the boosted incoming air would tend to push the slide back up when wanting to let off the throttle.  Is gravity and the lite spring pressure enough to overcome the air pressure ?
I assume a heavier spring could be used of course if needed to counter-act the air pressure.
A butterfly valve type carb would not have the issue, but they are less efficient having the butter valve in the carb throat.

Dave wrote on 06/24/13 at 10:25:23:



Ahh, so there's no issue with the carb.  Good to know; thanks for the info Dave.