SuzukiSavage.com - Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates

MotoBuddha Serious Thumper Offline Let's roll! Posts: 1416 Charlotte, NC	Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi Reply #75 - 06/25/11 at 12:16:15 Same here, but I like problem solving. And there's the matter of passing inspection here.
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Gyrobob

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Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts!
Reply #76 - 06/25/11 at 14:09:17

MotoBuddha wrote on 06/25/11 at 11:01:27:

I might have found something. My understanding of electricity is rudimentary, but it seems like we could replace the stock switch with a snap acting switch wired to close the circuit when pressure is off its lever.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#micro-switches/=cwjc9n

Scroll down for corrosion resistant and mil spec versions.

The switch could be mounted so that the arm on the pedal releases the switch lever when the pedal is pushed. For example, using that extra bracket you bolted to the rear-set, you could attach a switch so the long bolt you used to attach the brake rod presses the switch closed (off). Then when you push the pedal, the long bolt would rise, releasing the switch and turning it on.

Cool idea. A small snap-action switch actuated simply by resting somewhere on the brake lever or the small lever that pulls on the brake rod. Even a Radio Shack 257-016 or 275-017 would work ($3 each) but they would probably have to be replaced after every 10th rain ride.

Now that I think about it, though, there could well be an advantage to having a cable sneak off somewhere to actuate a switch recessed somewhere out of the way (like on the Savage). The switch itself is away from feet, rocks, bungees, rain, etc.

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Gyrobob

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Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi
Reply #77 - 06/25/11 at 14:21:27

sbaugz wrote on 06/25/11 at 11:57:47:

in all honesty, does it really matter if the rear brake control triggers the tail light or not? I almost never use my rear brake anyways. THe fronts trigger it, so to me its really a mute point.

I'd recommend you start using that rear brake. In fact, if you have spent most of your motorcycling life never using it, you are setting yourself up for an unhappy event if you ever have to do an honest-to-god, I'm-gonna-die-this-time panic stop.

What happens to folks who don't normally use the rear brake is that a real panic stop causes them to either lock up the rear brake or not use it at all. Both situations are well less than optimal for two reasons: 1. you don't stop as fast as you could, 2. you don't control the bike as well as you could.

If you lock up the rear brake, you add very little stopping power and you lose directional control.

If you don't use it at all, you throw away its modest stopping power and are more likely to lock up the front wheel which will have you horizontal and making sparks faster than you can say RYCA.

"mute" point?

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« Last Edit: 09/15/13 at 10:35:42 by Gyrobob »

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sbaugz

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Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts!
Reply #78 - 06/25/11 at 17:27:12

Yes, I meant to type in 'moot point'.

I guess I should have posed this question- is there ever a time that you would use rear brake without using the front brake too? I cannot think of such an instance- so again- in my mind the rear brake light switch isn't that big of a deal.
Or at least to me its not worth pouring all sorts of time and effort into changing it, when the switch that RYCA came up with works just fine- at least on my bike.

With that being said, I have no problem with you working out another solution to the problem, and frankly, I enjoy watching people post ingenious solutions to problems.

Oh, and nice job you guys on your build so far. Looks like you have made good progress. I really like those firestones and the speedmasters. I was considering those two as well, but ended up going with Dunlop k70s, which are real similar to the speedmasters.

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Gyrobob

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Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts!
Reply #79 - 06/25/11 at 19:32:45

sbaugz wrote on 06/25/11 at 17:27:12:

Yes, I meant to type in 'moot point'.

I guess I should have posed this question- is there ever a time that you would use rear brake without using the front brake too? I cannot think of such an instance- so again- in my mind the rear brake light switch isn't that big of a deal.
Or at least to me its not worth pouring all sorts of time and effort into changing it, when the switch that RYCA came up with works just fine- at least on my bike.

With that being said, I have no problem with you working out another solution to the problem, and frankly, I enjoy watching people post ingenious solutions to problems.

Oh, and nice job you guys on your build so far. Looks like you have made good progress. I really like those firestones and the speedmasters. I was considering those two as well, but ended up going with Dunlop k70s, which are real similar to the speedmasters.

Sorry,... I couldn't pass up the opportunity for a cheap shot about the mute point. Embarrassed

I like to use the rear brake for the signaling effect. If it is possible (and it is on the Savage), I set up the rear brake light switch so that it comes on slightly before the brake shoes touch the drum. That way I can tap the brake pedal just enough to get someone's attention behind me without actually braking. If I push the brake pedal a little further than I need, it's no big deal because it is on the rear brake which has little power, and doesn't create much of a nosedive from braking.

I just don't like the way RYCA routes the brake cable by gripping it on the sleeve rather than at the end of the cable where the engineers designed it to be gripped.

Thanks for the build comments. That means a lot coming from you, since you have built one of the most beautiful bikes ever.

I like K70s too. I used several of them in the 60's-70's on bikes like Yamaha 305, Honda 350, Suzuki T500.

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Gyrobob

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Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! some constructi
Reply #80 - 06/25/11 at 19:46:08

MotoBuddha wrote on 06/25/11 at 10:31:38:

That's a much cleaner solution.

How much slack is there in the wire from the switch to the rest of the harness? I was wondering if the switch could be relocated. Of course, lengthening some wires, if necessary, might not be the hardest part.

Oh, wait--what if the brake light is just wired to an accelerometer? Grin

But, you know, there must be some kind of digital solution.

Thanks for the cleaner solution comment.

Don't they have brake lights (LEDs) on the backs of helmets that respond to deceleration? Come to think of it, I went to school with a guy who wired up his brake light to a mercury switch that would connect on deceleration. The only problem (if it even was a problem) was that just the normal bumps in the road would blink the light on temporarily frequently.

I had thought about reversing the direction of the brake light switch, or even swapping the positions of the brake light switch and the anchoring point for the switch side of the brake light switch cable.

Since one of the things I don't like about the RYCA routing is that the cable is nearly kinked at the inner end, another idea I had was to just take the cable down to the local Honda/Yamaha/Suzuki/Kaw dealer and ask him if he had something like this cable but a few inches longer.

Oh well, maybe we'll have a "EUREKA" moment and stumble across something elegantly simple and brilliantly functional.

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MotoBuddha Serious Thumper Offline Let's roll! Posts: 1416 Charlotte, NC	Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Reply #81 - 06/25/11 at 20:37:07 What about reshaping the part of the rear-set the brake rod attaches to so it has a cam shape? Or maybe the locking ring. Then the snap-action switch, mounted to the rear-set bracket, could ride on the "cam."
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Gyrobob Serious Thumper Offline Posers ain't motorcyclists Posts: 2571 Newnan, GA Gender:	Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Reply #82 - 06/26/11 at 06:09:26 Hmmm,... use the brake rod lever as a cam for the snap action switch with a roller, eh? How tidy!
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Re: Double RYCA Build -- front brake line routing
Reply #83 - 07/13/11 at 06:44:03

There is too much front brake line after lowering the forks and installing clip-ons. After looking at several of the mods, I decided to try this one. We may still get some shorter ones made, but until then we'll see how this looks/works. The routing goes behind the headlight, under the frame behind the forks, through a bracket brazed to the horn bracket then down the left fork leg.

Update: in reply #86, Sbaugz mentioned a clearance problem with the RYCA tank and the horn. Dammitall!!! He was right. This front-brake-line-routing-using-the-horn-bracket idea needs to be revised.

Here's the horn bracket and the scrap metal to be shaped and brazed.

Bracket brazed.

Test fit.

Painted with Rustoleum automotive gloss black. Nice surprise is that it pretty well matches the industrial black finish on the stock frame.

Painted part installed with test fit.

With horn installed.

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« Last Edit: 09/30/11 at 07:22:09 by Gyrobob »

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MotoBuddha Serious Thumper Offline Let's roll! Posts: 1416 Charlotte, NC	Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Reply #84 - 07/13/11 at 08:02:40 It doesn't kink too sharply when the forks are at full left lock?
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Gyrobob Serious Thumper Offline Posers ain't motorcyclists Posts: 2571 Newnan, GA Gender:	Re: Double RYCA Build -- finally!! adding parts! Reply #85 - 07/13/11 at 10:49:41 MotoBuddha wrote on 07/13/11 at 08:02:40: It doesn't kink too sharply when the forks are at full left lock? Nope. Just bends a little more. It's not kinked anywhere near as much as the way some guys are doubling it over and putting a ziptie on it.
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sbaugz Ex Member	Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Reply #86 - 07/14/11 at 05:16:49 Did you try fitting your tank on yet? I had to buy a smaller horn because the tank would not fit up against the stock horn.
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BuckRYCA

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Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou
Reply #87 - 07/14/11 at 09:13:03

Hi. I would suggest that if your brake line is over a couple of years old that you consider replacing it with a stainless steel line. It is a wear item. I got a custom made Galfer from Racecrafters.com for $67 delivered. Mine is 37" (center of banjo bolt to center of banjo bolt) and fits perfectly, but I have low-rise handlebars instead of clip-ons. This line never needs to be replaced and provides much better braking feel and power than the rubber OEM one.

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'96 Savage - now a Ryca CS-1

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Gyrobob

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Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou
Reply #88 - 07/14/11 at 17:36:20

BuckRYCA wrote on 07/14/11 at 09:13:03:

Hi. I would suggest that if your brake line is over a couple of years old that you consider replacing it with a stainless steel line. It is a wear item. I got a custom made Galfer from Racecrafters.com for $67 delivered. Mine is 37" (center of banjo bolt to center of banjo bolt) and fits perfectly, but I have low-rise handlebars instead of clip-ons. This line never needs to be replaced and provides much better braking feel and power than the rubber OEM one.

Sound reasoning.

Do you have pics?

What length would I need for a standard RYCA set up with clip-ons?

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BuckRYCA Senior Member Offline Posts: 258 New London, CT, USA Gender:	Re: Double RYCA Build -- new info, front brake rou Reply #89 - 07/16/11 at 15:07:30 Here are some photos of my Galfer brake line: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1-5ecFghon-twhKCVZdVb8Qm1MV8p6ivxdddKcA... https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/R8QOjUhMW_cTsjI_Sfvl58Qm1MV8p6ivxdddKcA... https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ed7aBL1nOT6Jh_V-z_6tCMQm1MV8p6ivxdddKcA...
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