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Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak (Read 13926 times)
Savage_Greg
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #15 - 04/09/05 at 07:29:10
 
Paladin. wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:
On the 460 Ford we used Permatex Aviation form-a-gasket sealant.  I figure if it is good enough for an air-cooled aircraft engine it should be fine on a air-cooled bike.


Is that the old Permatex that I used for sealing cork valve cover gaskets, years ago?  The kind that turns hard?

You want to use the RTV Silicone Rubber type.  And you use it very very sparingly.  The head cover surface is supposed to be very flat since it is actually 1/2 of the cam shaft bearings too.
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #16 - 04/09/05 at 10:49:53
 
As far as I know the Avaition grade does not turn hard.  The mechanic who worked on the 460 prior used silicone, which leaked.
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Reelthing
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #17 - 04/10/05 at 22:18:16
 
Reelthing wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:
The permatex I used was high temp - red I think

It's not red it's copper color
Permatex Ultra Copper high temp rtv silicone
http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&i...
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Savage_Rob
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #18 - 04/11/05 at 06:07:41
 
Reelthing wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:
It's not red it's copper color.
Permatex Ultra Copper high temp rtv silicone

Both exist.  I actually have three types at home - all three are high temp.  Red, gray and ultra copper (kind of a rust orange in color).  I was actually planning on using the gray because when reading the labels, I noted that certain types are recommended by different manufacturers.  It seems like I remember the gray as having the Suzuki endorsement.
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1998|MAC muffler|ceramic coated header|K&N air filter|Amal Mk2 carb|Odyssey battery|iridium plug|NC windshield|Dunlop 491s|Superbrace|EBC brake rotor|12.5" Progressive shocks|Kuryakyn ISO grips
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #19 - 04/22/05 at 17:36:31
 
I used the gray Permatex, which was actually the color of the original sealant on the valve cover anyway.  The whole process was pretty straightforward except for the end when the bolt broke off in the cylinder head.  However, I think the bolt was pre-stressed and is hopefully not a normal occurrence.  That's another story in progress though.  Greg's suggestion to print out the bolt layout and taping it to a cardboard box is excellent advice.  I would not do it any other way.
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #20 - 05/28/05 at 23:25:45
 
Just wanted to say thank you Greg and all. This thread helped me fix the oil leak I had. IF anyone needs it the new plug part number is 11145-41b01  8)
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #21 - 06/02/05 at 11:20:36
 
I didn't see it in any of the instructions above (and if I just missed it, my bad) but be sure you set the engine to TDCC before removing the cylinder head cover.  This is not the same as a valve cover; the rockers are built onto it.  You need to have the pressure removed before removing it.  I know I didn't even give it a thought.  I was thinking about replacing a plug - not messing with the valves. I appear to have been lucky but it's not good to have to rely on luck.
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1998|MAC muffler|ceramic coated header|K&N air filter|Amal Mk2 carb|Odyssey battery|iridium plug|NC windshield|Dunlop 491s|Superbrace|EBC brake rotor|12.5" Progressive shocks|Kuryakyn ISO grips
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Clark
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #22 - 07/03/05 at 20:39:27
 
What should the torque be on the bolts for the headcover?

I have the Clymers manual and a print out of this thread.  I tried fixing the leak today.  I must have misread the table in the book because I twisted off two bolts torquing them to what I thought was the correct values.  I may have also stripped several of the others as I was trying to get to the correct values.

I have a torque wrench and was using it for the operation.

My hope is that I can remove the headcover again and get to the broken bolts without removing more of the engine.  I may have to get the mechanic at work to put helicoils in .

I have new bolts on order and will replace all initially.

I need the proper torque values before I go farther.

Thanks

Clark
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Reelthing
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #23 - 07/04/05 at 20:51:23
 
6 to 8 lbs but I'd bet 5lbs would do - it doesn't take much - I use small stuff 1/4 in drive and a 3 inch 10mm boxend - be sure your at tdcc
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #24 - 07/05/05 at 06:51:04
 
That may not be as uncommon as you'd normally think.  I twisted one off myself while using a torque wrench set at 7 lbs. before it reached that torque.  Luckily, after removing the cover, there was about 2mm of bolt protruding.  That was just enough to barely grab with longnose vise-grips and turn it out a bit at a time.
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #25 - 01/04/06 at 14:44:05
 
I want to add a couple of more tips when replacing your cap/plug. Once the head cover is removed, take several Q Tips and clean the threads. Some of the wells may be filled with oil, so you have to remove the oil to prevent a hydraulic lock later when you torque the bolts. On some of the deeper wells, use a pipe cleaner. It is also preferred to have dry threads so you can get an accurate reading on your torque wrench.
When you apply the Permatex, use it in a very thin line. The majority of the sealant will be squished out when you seat the cover and torque the bolts. I loaded Permatex into a syringe (without the needle) I got at a pharmacy. The syringe allows you easier leverage on the plunger and is quite accurate for getting into tight areas of the head.

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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #26 - 01/05/06 at 08:42:51
 
 
And just one more tip - be careful with the O-ring in the head cover.  If you clean the recess and use a new one it easily falls out so should be "glued" in place with a little tacky gasket cement.  That way it will stay put when fitting the cover back on.  

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« Last Edit: 07/11/12 at 23:06:46 by Oldfeller--FSO »  
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MacAttack
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #27 - 05/24/06 at 08:57:42
 
I used grey Permatex. Biggest thing I missed the first time was Have the motor at TDC on compression, so there's no tension on any valves. Otherwise, the bolts go in fine, but they feel tight when they're not.  Also make sure the oil screen is all the way inside the head cover - I pinched mine a bit.
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w6k
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #28 - 10/25/06 at 22:21:52
 


       I always use a product called Never sieze on the head bolts. It allows them to torque down without binding and makes them easier to remove also. Much less likely to break one off.
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djpennin
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Re: Savage "Plug/Cap" Leak
Reply #29 - 03/01/07 at 11:09:02
 
I did this FIX about 4 years ago.  Then i sold my savage, bought a custom harley chopper, bought a buell, sold the chopper, and now just bought another savage... funny full circle.  

here is my documentation from my 1996 that i did.  

Pictures that go along with the instructions are at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/djpennin

Instructions on how to change the head seal plug
Approx time: 2-3hrs (that's how long it took me, and i'm a newbie)

PICTURES are at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/djpennin


-remove seat
-unscrew 10mm bolt on left side
-unscrew 10mm bolt on right side
-pull seat off
-remove left side cover
-remove screw
-pull off cover
-disconnect negative battery lead
-remove screw
-turn gas petcock off
-remove gas line from tank
-remove speedo cable
-unscrew from engine
-pull out speedo cable
-remove breather tube
-pull off tube from carb on right side of bike
-remove rear two 10mm bolts from rear of tank
-pull tank up and back and disconnect electrical plug
-remove left side chrome cover
-unscrew 10mm bolt from back
-unscrew 10mm bolt from front
-use needlenose pliers to hold nut through fins
-remove cable that goes to solenoid
-loosen nuts that hold cable
-pull off cable from head
-remove spark plug wire from plug
-remove right side chrome cover
-unscrew 10mm bolt from back
-unscrew 10mm bolt from front
-slide right side chrome cover back and remove tube
-remove chrome cover
-unscrew solenoid left side 10mm bolt
-slide solenoid up then replace bolt to hole solenoid up
-this gets the solenoid just far enough out of the way to reach screws below
-disconnect solenoid plug
-remove 10mm bolts from head cover
-DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT that is on the right side
closest to where you removed the big tube
-remove the bolts in a orderly fasion from one side
to the other to even the stress on the head cover
-dont forget the 10mm bolt that are under the valve timing cover
-dont forget the other 10mm bolt under the other cover as well
-remove the engine mount
-unscrew the three 12mm bolts
-remove cover
-pull off head cover
-clean any sealant that is on head cover
-REPLACE your HEAD SEAL !!!!!!!!!!!!!
-apply sealant to your head cover
-NOTE when putting the head cover back on be sure and place that bolt that is
upside down into the head, and also that very center bolt. I place those
bolts on the head cover and taped them on so they wouldnt fall out as I
put the head cover back on.
-now do everything in reverse to put it all back together
-ENJOY
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