Just make sure the plugs fit tight so you don't lose one down a hole.  You can't name your hotrod "Vinyl".  So, one plug in the feed (red plug) and one plug in the drain (black plug).  Keep this in mind.  Trash in the feed hole will go directly to your cam, trash in the drain hole will go directly to your main bearing and balance shaft bearing.  You don't want crud in those holes.

Once everything is protected, clean off the gasket surface with a very mild abrasive.  I like ScotchBrite, the green variety.  I use it with a small amount of oil and only work the surface just enough to remove the remnants of gasket coating.

Wipe it all up with clean paper towels, then follow up with another wipe down using some mineral spirits.  Make sure you thoroughly wipe out the keyhole groove in the oil feed system (red arrows).  Use a Q-tip to get all the rubbish out of that groove.  See how nice it cleans up.

The cylinder head also has oil feed and drain holes that correspond to the cylinder.  The head is removed so you can wash it in solvent, but you still need to be cognizant of those critical holes.  Use similar methods to keep abrasive particles out of those holes when you clean the gasket and sealing surfaces.  ScotchBrite works good on the head surfaces too, but you need to mask off the valve pockets, valve springs, etc. to keep the grit from getting in all the nooks & crannies.

This shows the oil feed hole (yellow arrow) and exhaust valve pocket drain location (red arrow).  Keep the trash out of those holes and pockets.  Also keep the trash out of the cam bearings.

The head cover sealing surface will also need cleaning.  ScotchBrite works good on this too.  You need to take appropriate measures to keep grit off the rocker arms and out of the bearings and the bearing oil holes.  The oil feed passage to the head cover has this unique oval o-ring.  You need to keep the grit out of this passage.  A plug is in order.  You can also wash it up with mineral spirits but make sure you oil the shafts afterwards.

I'm glad the stud puller worked good for you.  I like the way you marked the top of your studs with that blue tape.  You don't want those getting installed upside down.

The scratch in your cam bearing is from trash.  That's why I stress cleanliness.  That particular scratch shouldn't cause a problem, but you don't want any more scratches.

Your cam looks good too.  Since you have no idea how this engine runs, and you have probably figured out that a cam change is pretty easy, I suggest you hang on to the 466 and run the stock cam for now.  Your rocker pads are a bit sketchy, and it would be a shame to chew up the performance cam.

Are you planning to install a Verslagen head plug, or will you be using the stock plug?

What is the liquid that you sucked out of the right-rear stud hole.  Is it water, oil.....?

You need to do a good inspection of the three threaded holes in your cylinder.  Inspect each hole for any evidence of stripped threads.  Also inspect the bolts that go in these three holes (the three super long head cover bolts).  These three holes are notorious for stripping out.  If there's a problem, you want to find it now.

The copper washers for the cylinder head nuts look pretty crushed.  As I recall, you have new replacements.  Also, the theads on your right-front cylinder stud are corroded a bit.  Those threads need to be cleaned up with a small wire brush before the head goes back on.  When the time comes, we need to go over lubrication and tightening.  This old post has some good info.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1576269113/12#12

Also, sealant application is critical.  This is one of those situations where less is more.  This old post has a useful tool that makes application a breeze.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1525551307