Crap, Loctite 592 is not available within European Union, or so it would seem. Amazon automatically refuses to ship it to Denmark, and Danish resellers of Loctite tells me they are not allowed to access it.
I managed to get it from EBay, England, but with an up to 2 weeks delivery time.
This means that I will have time to do the extended plunger project too.
Mike, thanks again for the heads up on oil pressure with the speed up pump drive.
Made me reread the full 8 pages of:
https://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1695617698/0 I really only want to try to save the top end oil pressure from running low during idle, and did totally miss the possibility of overpressurizing the system.
I have the gauges, 100psi and 15 psi. I guess the latter will have to be sealed off during warm up in order to survive. We will see about that.
So, should I install the relief, or drain jet, which dumps oil right back to the primary transmission plenum from the filter cover?
Perhaps it would be possible to mount a spring regulated pressure relief valve up in the valve cover, and dump the excess oil into the exhaust spring pocket, so that the main bearings could benefit from it? I cannot help thinking that a pressure relief valve up there would be the right thing to have.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/miniature-relief-valves/I will use the generous ring gaps you suggested, and see how the piston mates with the cylinder. It is the 94mm high compression 13136M09400 from Lancer.
The porting work is on hold for the moment. I still need to measure port volume on the stock head, and on the ported one, as well as compare the 2 heads against eash other flow wise, and will probably do now while I wait for the Loctite 592.
But before I move on with porting I feel I had better get some experience with valve seat shapes. It is one of David Vizzards center points, and not just him. Most porters seem to agree that the shape of the valve seat, or pre-seat, is the most important aspect of porting. One place in David Vizzards book about porting and flowing he writes, that when people gain power by putting in bigger valves it is mainly due to the fact that they can get a better shape just up stream of the seat.
The picture I show is from a french amateur porter, from his Hayabusa, posted to a facebook porting group, and he got a lot of praise for his work. He puts all 5 angles into the throat/seat transition. Not that I understand why it should be beneficial to have those sharp steps there, Intuitively I would assume a smooth transition would be better, like everywhere else. In fact I secretly harbour the opinion that the only reason to make the transition with steps is that it can be done with standard cutters, by anyone, whereas doing it in one smooth curve requires a dedicated seat cutting machine, with curved cutting inserts, or as of now, a CNC controlled cutter with one point tools. Man - it is a can of worms.
However, what I wish to do is create a simple fixture where I can mount replicate valve guides made on the lathe, and test the shapes without spoiling a head.
Now, about the antique tools. Frankly I don't use them. I have good modern stuff. I bought the monkey wrench off EBay a couple of years ago, and the micrometer I found in the bottom of an old wooden box in the corner of a cubboard out at the museum in the moor where I spend tuesday mornings. Frankly, it is a joke. Perhaps I should stop joking about old tools.
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