Here is the best I could with slip on pipe baffle image

The baffle length is marked in red. Maybe more like 14 to 15 inches

Moarpower wrote on 05/22/23 at 19:31:49:

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1367212825

Once again, you are making too many changes all at once.  I know it's a pain in the tusch to take everything apart just to change or adjust the slide needle, but you have to grin and bear it.  Installing the bigger filter and a different slide needle and changing the needle position all at once doesn't help you.  Only one change at a time.

Caution!!!  Your spark plug is bone white after 56 miles of riding.  White equals lean.  Be careful or you will hurt it.

You definitely have enough air filter now.  That should be sufficient, but how do you know that the oval vent port is not obstructed?  I assume you have a short section of PVC pipe in the female socket of that elbow.  What schedule is the pipe?  What is the wall thickness?  How did you verify that it doesn't obstruct the vent port?

See the washer?

I'm kinda glad you mentioned the spring problem because it prompted me to blow up your photo.  Once blown up, I can see your OEM needle is a 5C17.  Very valuable info.

The 5C17 needle is for the late model carbs.  It should be run with a X-7 needle jet, but the early model carbs came with a X-8 needle jet.

The late model carbs have a fixed main air bleed.  It's about .024".  I've never measured the main air bleed on an early model carb.  The main air bleed and needle jet work together.  They're a team.  If the early model carb has a different size needle jet, it might also have a different size main air bleed.  Do you see where this is goin?

In order to help you, we need to know everything about your carburetor.  We need to know what the markings are on your needle jet.  We need to know if it's brass or stainless steel.  We need to know the size of your main air bleed.

Don't use anything that doesn't have a clear marking embossed.   That rules out any of the stuff you got in a carb kit.  Don't use it.  You know nothing about it.  You don't know the size, taper, etc.  Mixing the aftermarket junk in with genuine OEM parts isn't gonna work. 

Needle jet must have a clear marking.  What is it?  If it doesn't have a clear marking, don't use it.

Slide needle must have a clear marking.  You have several needles. What are the markings?  I can see one is a 5C17, what are the others?  If it doesn't have a clear marking, don't use it.

Main air bleed.  How big is it?  Use small numbered drills to check it. Insert the shank side of the drill bit, not the pointed side.  If you don't have numbered drill bits, get some.  They are available at any decent hobby shop.  If you have no other choice, take the carb to your local machine shop.  They will probably measure the thing for free.

You have this chop suey conglomeration of parts and you are wasting time constantly disassembling and reassembling without keeping any records of the parts.  You should have a complete, detailed list of all the parts by now.  Just zoom in with your phone and snap a photo of the markings, then transcribe the info onto a piece of paper.

Thanks Mike. I believe there are about 4 or 5  of those disks with holes but could be more and I can't tell if there is another form of baffle in the middle of it all.

I was wondering if the stock header pipe is dual walled. And if so would.i be able to remove the inner pipe and use the outer only? Obviously I'd have to cut and weld. Maybe it would be too open then .
The cherry bomb look cool. Are there any videos of something like that running ?

Here is a shot of the main air bleed. I will get some small drill bits today if I can find them locally.