And a timing mark (notch) in the alternator cover.

Install the DR cam.  Don’t forget that drive pin.  Apply some assembly lube to the cam journals and install the cam, cam sprocket, and cam chain.  It’s a juggling act.  No need to force anything.  No worries about running a valve into a piston, the rockers aren’t installed yet.  You have to keep fiddling around with it until you achieve a condition where the TDC marks on the alternator rotor and alternator cover are lined up, and the timing marks on the cam align with the head surface, all at the same time.  I like to use a six-inch scale to get it exactly right.  Install one cam sprocket bolt finger tight to hold everything together.

Retract & lock the tensioner like this.

Again, when you tighten the tensioner bolt you MUST hold the nut on the chain guide with a wrench.  If you don’t hold the nut, you might break the guide.

Now you can release the tensioner by pulling out the plastic locking device.  Don’t skip this step.

The lock plate can go on two ways.  Install it as shown, covering the drive pin.  You want it to cover the drive pin so that the pin is captured.  See the pin just peeking out over the edge of the plate.  Also note that when you install the head cover, the drive pin must be in this position (1 o-clock) so that the cam lobes are pointing down into the oil trough.

Now is a good time to capture and record a little data.  Measure the cam chain tensioner extension and record the value.  Then, when you open the clutch cover again you can keep track of the extension.  Mine is on the high side (16.5mm).  I checked with Versy just before I closed it up to get a feel for the drop-dead point.  He said 18mm was the magic number.  I think I can probably run this baby long enough to finish up the project.

Here you see the soft copper placed between the drive gears.  Soft rolled copper tubing works great.