SuzukiSavage.com - Evolution of a HotRod

DragBikeMike

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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft
Reply #15 - 07/15/21 at 16:33:49

The “old-style” rocker arms do not have hardened cam follower pads, and the arm itself is not as robust. This shows the old-style vs the new-style (old on top, new on bottom). Note the special hardened cam follower pad. It’s brazed to the rocker arm. Much better. Also note the additional material used to reinforce the body of the rocker arm.

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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #16 - 07/15/21 at 16:34:28 Another view from the underside. Old-style on top, new-style on bottom.
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DragBikeMike

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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft
Reply #17 - 07/15/21 at 16:36:19

Remove the bolts that secure the head cover to the cylinder head. These bolts seem to be a problem for many Savage wrench turners. There’s a lot of them (16 or so), all different lengths, some with sealing washers, and some without sealing washers. They are easy to get mixed up.

The Clymer manual and factory service manual both have nice illustrations that show exactly where all the bolts and sealing washer go. Pay attention to the illustration. If you mix up these fasteners, there’s a good chance you will either strip out the internal threads in the aluminum, or break off a bolt. Some folks make a nice big copy of that illustration and poke holes in it to accommodate each bolt. It helps to keep track of things.

Carefully take the head cover off and set it aside.

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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #18 - 07/15/21 at 16:37:44 Now you can see the cam. Note the position of the cam lobes. They point down into the reservoir full of oil. I refer to that reservoir as the “trough”. When the head cover goes back on, this is ho the cam lobes must be oriented, facing down into the trough.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #19 - 07/15/21 at 16:38:52 To remove the cam shaft, you must loosen the cam chain. Only way to do that is to remove the cam chain tensioner. So, remove the header pipe and the clutch cover. To prevent losing any small parts in the engine, it’s a good idea to place a clean paper towel in the openings below the clutch.
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DragBikeMike

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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft
Reply #20 - 07/15/21 at 16:39:56

To prevent leaving any sort of cleanliness towel behind, and to remind you to do a thorough inspection before reinstalling the clutch cover, it is a good idea to put a zip tie in one of the clutch cover bolt holes, sort of like a red tag (only grey, or black, or white, or whatever color your zip ties are). I know a guy who failed to do this.

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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #21 - 07/15/21 at 16:41:00 Remove the circlip that secures the tensioner at the rear.
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DragBikeMike

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Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft
Reply #22 - 07/15/21 at 16:42:13

Remove the bolt that fastens the tensioner to the cam chain guide. Make sure you hold the nut that’s attached to the guide. Use a wrench on the nut as shown. If you don’t hold that nut, you may break the guide. Don’t try and turn the bolt until you have a wrench on the nut, as shown.

BTW, that chain tensioner is gonna try to fly apart when you remove the bolt. There’s a spring inside.

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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #23 - 07/15/21 at 16:43:18 Now the cam chain will be loose. Bend the lock tabs on the cam sprocket bolts and remove the bolts. You will have to rotate the engine to access both bolts. No problem, the rocker arms have been removed so there is no concern over running a valve into the piston.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #24 - 07/15/21 at 16:44:45 Use a small screwdriver or rod to gently push the thrust ring out of its groove. Key words & phrases, “gently push”. No beating, driving, prying. A gentle push should be all that’s required to get it started, then just roll it on out.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #25 - 07/15/21 at 16:45:25 Now the cam can be shifted to the left. Slip the sprocket and chain to the right and pull out the cam. Watch out for the drive pin, don’t lose it.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #26 - 07/15/21 at 16:46:23 Clean out the oil trough and inspect the cam bearings. Clean all the old sealant off the head and head cover. Inspect the head plug to make sure it is not loose. Now is a good time for one of those special Verslagen plugs.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #27 - 07/15/21 at 16:47:45 Inspect the valve stem tips. You want nice circular wear patterns, no chipping or galling. Make sure the spring retainers are not cocked and the cotters are seated. Check all four valves.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #28 - 07/15/21 at 16:48:42 There are timing marks on the right-side of the cam shaft.
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DragBikeMike Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 4207 Honolulu	Re: Evolution of a HotRod - Part 5 Camshaft Reply #29 - 07/15/21 at 16:49:28 There is a timing mark (TDC mark) on the end of the alternator rotor.
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