You are going to use the original Suzuki Savage cam sprocket.....the DR on won't work in the Savage.
The only way I know to check the oil flow into the upper end, is to get the bike running and see if there is oil splashing around. After you get the bike running, remove the front oil inspection port and look around - when you put the engine together is was dry up there......you should see that oi has been thrown around everywhere if the pump is working. If the pump is not working - not only would your cam lobes have been toast....the cam bearings would have been as well.
Nobody has mentioned the cam and rocker break in yet - it is very important.
I spray a thin coat of graphite spray on the cam lobes before I install the camshaft.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-5-5-oz-Industrial-Graphite-Dry-Lubricant-...You should also apply a camshaft assembly lube to the cam lobes.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-99005?rrec=trueI apply a light coating of grease to the cam bearings, as it is easier to keep grease from running out onto the areas that I am going to be apply the sealer (oil is runny). This should be a very light film that won't squeeze out as the head cover is being installed.
Use a good break in oil. These oils have a high ZDDP content, no multi-viscosity additives, and a very low detergent content. This give you the most oil molecules as the oil has very few additives to take up room that could be used for oil. The bad part of this oil change is that if you take off the oil filter housing - you will need to crank the engine over long enough to get the oil filter housing full of oil - and that is not a good thing on a new camshaft. I would change the oil in the crankcase and leave the filter alone. The break in oil should be used for 100 miles or so, and then replaced with Rotella T-6.
https://www.competitionproducts.com/Brad-Penn-PENN-GRADE-1-Break-In-Oil-30W-Q...Once you have the above things done, you have adjusted the valve clearance and are ready to start the bike - stand the bike as upright as possible by placing a block under the kickstand. Then using the front valve inspection port - fill the trough under the camshaft with oil. You can do this with a hand oil can and an extension tube - or a squeeze bottle and a tube.
When you are ready to start the bike, make sure you can get it running and up to 2,000 rpm or so right away and keep it running. Cam folks say to keep the engine running at this speed for 20 minutes or so before you shut the engine down or allow the rpm to drop. This is not a good idea on a stationary air cooled engine - so going for a ride is the best way to beat this problem. If it is impossible to go for a ride - then use fans to cool the engine.
Here is the same description oriented toward cars.
Procedure
Install the Camshaft.
Set the Valve Lash or Preload as recommended by the manufacturer.
Prime the Oiling System.
Set the Initial Ignition Timing.
For carbureted engines, make sure fuel bowls are full and any air is bled from the fuel lines.
Start the engine and immediately raise rpm to 3,000.
Vary rpm between 1,500 and 3,000 for the next 20-30 minutes.
Use a slow, steady acceleration/deceleration pattern.
Shut down the engine and let it cool.
Drain the oil and change the oil filter.
This removes any metal particles from the break-in process.
Refill the engine with break-in oil.
The initial break-in is now complete. After the next 500 miles of normal driving, change the oil and oil filter again. Could you get it done by doing less........maybe? I just try to do as much as I can to help the cam survive the critical break in period. With a proper break in and continued maintenance the camshaft is durable......youzguyz has over 200,000 miles on his stock camshaft and the early one piece rockers.
The experience of this forum shows that oil with low ZDDP causes the cam lobes and rocker pads to fail - while low idle speed results in low oil pressure and the cam bearings fail.
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