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Rubber Side Down!
› Weakest link in the "starter chain"?
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Weakest link in the "starter chain"? (Read 259 times)
verslagen1
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Re: Weakest link in the "starter chain"?
Reply #30 -
03/04/20 at 09:47:20
it's the same hole deeper.
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Re: Weakest link in the "starter chain"?
Reply #31 -
03/04/20 at 10:18:06
I think I may have that skill at this time - Thanks much Vers.
Cool.
Srinath.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Weakest link in the "starter chain"?
Reply #32 -
03/06/20 at 11:35:39
Nice save on that cover Versy.
Can you give us a little more detail? For instance, did you set it up in a drill press or were you able to pull it off with a hand drill. I see the hole is exactly 10.00mm and there is a smaller hole at the bottom of the existing blind hole. Can you follow the smaller hole with say a 9.8mm drill or possibly a letter "W" drill and then finish up with a 10mm machine reamer?
Pretty cool that you were able to upgrade the old cover on the cheap.
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Re: Weakest link in the "starter chain"?
Reply #33 -
03/06/20 at 11:52:54
Wasn't me, the shaft hole itself doesn't need to be deeper, only the spotface.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Weakest link in the "starter chain"?
Reply #34 -
03/06/20 at 13:46:02
So are you saying that you only have to shorten the boss by 1/2"? The depth of the 10mm hole remains unchanged?
If that's the case, gravy.
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RocketScienceSmurf
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Re: Weakest link in the "starter chain"?
Reply #35 -
10/11/20 at 04:12:23
Today I took some current measurements on my engine which is still out of the frame. I wanted to see how much current the starter draws without the solenoid and this is this first oscilloscope reading
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RocketScienceSmurf
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Re: Weakest link in the "starter chain"?
Reply #36 -
10/11/20 at 04:14:08
I figured something was off since the current did not match the battery voltage and was constant at 20A. Turns out the I was bottoming out the scale. When I changed the range on the clamp probe I got what I believe to be correct numbers instead
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RocketScienceSmurf
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Re: Weakest link in the "starter chain"?
Reply #37 -
10/27/20 at 23:01:49
After some thinking and input from members here I realize that the current is probably even higher than ~130A. My clamp probe has a limit of 65A AC and should mean that the peak current it can accurately measure is around 130A. If I want to get a better reading I need to find a clamp probe that can handle larger currents and a better battery that will no sag so much when the engine is cranking.
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