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Clutch replacement now overheating (Read 145 times)
J cooley
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Clutch replacement now overheating
12/14/19 at 08:26:28
 
Hey all-
Just did the clutch and cable on my 2012 w 20k due to slippage.
After installation it seems to grab great, but at lights is overheating.
I did NOT remove the clutch basket as warned, but the clutch basket did move when putting the new plates on. I THINK its overheating because it is getting to a temp at after riding that I can feel it warm through my jeans, also the RPM begins to rise even though its quite cold (40 degrees out) After it warms up, the clutch also begins to slip. Its quite frustrating.

If the problem is that pin and washer coming out of place, am I going to be able to find them and place them back in the right place? I know someone spoke of a "rabbit hole" but i didn't plug them. Thanks for the help.
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verslagen1
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #1 - 12/14/19 at 09:10:22
 
1st thing to check is your oil pressure, if you've lost the pin, you're not driving your pump.
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J cooley
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #2 - 12/14/19 at 09:53:08
 
How am I able to check my oil pressure?
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #3 - 12/14/19 at 10:25:20
 
On the front of the engine there's a plug on the clutch side of the case.
remove that and replace it with a pressure gage.
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J cooley
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #4 - 12/15/19 at 16:36:05
 
i will hopefully be able to get it in tomorrow and see if there is pressure or not. keep you posted
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #5 - 12/15/19 at 17:46:18
 
Rpm's rising after it warms up = lean. Opening up air screws (to let in fuel) or putting in a larger pilot jet is what we used to do.
You have an intake air leak ? Like a filter with a hole in it, a air vent that's left uncapped/open ?
You take the bike apart especially on the intake side recently ? look back and see if anything can take in air.
Also exhaust leaks can make it lean too, though less than intake side.
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #6 - 12/15/19 at 20:16:33
 
Possible to lose the restrictor jet that lives in the crankcase and is held in by the side cover. That would kill the oil pressure to the top end.
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srinath
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #7 - 12/16/19 at 00:44:14
 
Armen wrote on 12/15/19 at 20:16:33:
Possible to lose the restrictor jet that lives in the crankcase and is held in by the side cover. That would kill the oil pressure to the top end.


If I recall, it would lower the pressure at the crank. Its a restrictor to flow to the top end to retain bottom end pressure. I'm trying to remember, its been 15+ yrs since my last savage motor teardown. This is a ball bearing bottom end and a plain bearing top end right. Ball bearing bottom ends are not pressure lubed, they are splash lubed. The cam lobes in this bike are lubed by a square puddle that takes and keeps a lot of oil, and a bunch of dirt and crap as well, in a lot of other bikes the cam lobed are just splash lubed. Even that system works well enough. I actually doubt any oil flow/pressure problem can cause the rising rpm. That is jetting and air flow. If it overheats from lack of oil, its already too late, but I am sure its not happening here.

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J cooley
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #8 - 12/17/19 at 10:04:18
 
Ok. I took it to a shop, (couldn't find a reader and wanted it done same day) Place is highly recommended in Austin from multiple sources. They said that it has pressure, and they took the cover off to assure that there is oil getting to my top end. he said i was probably just paranoid and the clutch seems to be installed correctly. So now I am left with the question of: Why is it i have new clutch plates, new disks, springs and also a clutch cable am I still getting slipping when I am at running temp? Its when Im a little hard on it (on the highway) and the slipping is consistent. I am using 10w40 motorcycle oil. What is the next thing i need to check?
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #9 - 12/17/19 at 11:22:54
 
Srinath,
On a 4 stroke roller bottom end, the crank is most certainly pressure lubed. Look at the oiling diagram in the manual. Oil comes in through the right side cover into the right end of the crank
The oil that flies off the crank splashes onto the cylinder walls, so less oil to the crank would mean less on the cylinder walls, which would make for hotter running.
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #10 - 12/17/19 at 11:25:57
 
Sometimes it's the simple things. Is it properly adjusted? Is it possible that the current adjustment allows for constant slippage. How much free play is at the lever?
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #11 - 12/17/19 at 14:56:11
 
Gary_in_NJ wrote on 12/17/19 at 11:25:57:
Sometimes it's the simple things. Is it properly adjusted? Is it possible that the current adjustment allows for constant slippage. How much free play is at the lever?


+1
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #12 - 12/17/19 at 15:59:33
 
Check the lever position in regards to the marks on the case.
Pull up on the lever, there should be clearance.
The lower the better, but there is a limit...
if they are too low and it bottoms out before the cover is bolted down then the clutch will be permanently activated.
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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #13 - 12/17/19 at 22:00:27
 
As Verslagen said, the lever on the clutch cover (on the engine) should be between the two marks on the engine case.  Look behind where the cable attaches to the lever, there should be two marks on the engine case.

When the clutch lever on the handlebars is released, that lever on the clutch cover needs to be situated between those two marks on the engine case, and there should also be slack in the system.  There should be slack in the lever on the handlebars, and you should be able to pull on the lever on the clutch cover and observe it move up a bit.  There must be free play in order for the clutch to fully engage.

If that lever on the clutch cover doesn't line up with the marks on the engine case, you either have the cable too tight such that its pulling up on the engine lever and partially disengaging the clutch, or the clutch pushrod is the wrong length.

If you go to any Suzuki parts website (patzilla, babbitts, etc.) and look at the fiche for the clutch assembly, you will note that piece 22 comes in three different lengths (44.5mm, 45.5mm, & 46.5mm).  If the lever on the clutch cover is too low in relation to the marks on the engine case, you need a shorter pushrod.  If the lever is too high in relation to the marks on the engine case you need a longer pushrod.

All that being said, what sort of clutch plates and springs did you install?  Did you install genuine Suzuki parts, or did you install some sort of aftermarket parts.  I can tell you that I tested EBC clutch springs and they are not up to the task.

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Re: Clutch replacement now overheating
Reply #14 - 12/18/19 at 06:20:36
 
And did you soak the plates in (or use) "slippery" oil before the "motorcycle" oil?
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