The levers can be bent, rub bar soup on the lever , heat with a torch until the soap turns black , bend the lever closer to the handlebars (leaving enough space to work ) and allow them at least 24 hours to air  cool, a day or two to fully harden, just trying to bend them without heating would most likely snap them.

The items you linked are meant for motocross bikes. The Savage perches were not designed for adjustable levers. If you are not comfortable heating/bending them, perhaps a machine shop near you would be willing to do the work for you. Worst case scenario is you snap one and have to replace it...they're inexpensive.

Heat them off the bike. I would make the bend just past the portion that mates to the cable, where the actual lever begins.

Alternatively you could weld a stop area to the lever too restrict its full travel back.

The levers are aluminum , heating anneals them ( softens them so you can bend them without harm) soup lets you know when the temperature has  been reached, allowing them to air cool will let them return to their original strength  , It's really that easy, and time and cost effective. Pull the lever in ,an measure the gap between it and the handlebar ,before taking them of the bike ,that will be nearly the amount allowed for the bend. (if you bend them too far and they strike the bars ,you can simply repeat the process , and bend them back out a little)

I understand the concern but I would have no problem sending my wife out with bent levers as long as they were only bent once.  After years of hitting the ground racing motocross, I promise you that those bent levers don't break.  It's when you try to straighten them.  That is when they break (or the next crash  ).  

Normal usage imparts very little force on the levers and it would take far more force to bend or break a lever than any of us could impart with our bare hands.

I would bend them and then do some tests.  Like blocking the lever from its normal range of motion and see if you can bend or break them.  Once you have proven that you can't break them, they are "safe".

It's possible I may have been looking for a more difficult solution than I need.  After looking at the clutch handle and perch, along with the way the full stroke of the handle lever matches the angle of the bar when fully compressed, I think the best idea would be to simply adjust the cable to where she is comfortable, and then drill and tap a setscrew into the handle or perch to limit return travel (just enough so there's no slop in the assembly when the handle is released) if needed.  Additionally, we're going to install different grips with a slightly smaller diameter.  If needed after all this, we'll try the heat bending method for the brake lever, though to be honest, it's the clutch that is giving her the most trouble.

And thanks to those mentioning the diameter of the bar... I did measure it yesterday and found that it was indeed 1" diameter, but there are some online sources listing them as 7/8", and I jumped the gun by assuming they were correct.  I'll keep you posted as to what we do and how we do it - maybe I'll start a "Savage For Small Hands" thread!

Mike, you mentioned thinner grips. Biltwell make some great thin grips (I use their 'Recoil' brand). They are very reasonably priced.

If you change grips you may need to file down ridges on the stock throttle tube. They're quite proud as they fit into slots on the inside of the stock foam grips.